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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    well it was running but it was running rough as hell with the afr in the high 20s and the timing was all over the place for some reason. After getting an infared temp thingy I discovered #1 was not firing. After some checks it came down to dirty injectors. When I cut the fuel lines I made sure to blow them out with my compressor but I guess I didn't get it all out. After cleaning out all the hoses and injectors I reinstalled them and was so happy to hear it fire up and the afr was good from once. The RPM was about 2100 though so I went around to the front of the hood to adjust it down and about the time I got back to the throttle body I heard a pop and there was fuel pissing out on the firewall. After a lot of inspection I could not figure out what the problem was as the an fittings all looked good and I tried tightening them up to the point I thought I would damage them and they still leaked. After taking a closer look what I realized was that in my attempt to keep the hoses as short/simple as possible I had made pretty much a straight hose from where it came out at behind the front fender, to the 90 degree an fitting that connected to the rail. The hoses in the kit were the stainless braided hose that is stiffer then the non braided and with it charged it was even stiffer so with it being straight the only place for any vibrations to be transferred into the system was right at the 90 degree fitting. I ordered non-stainless braided hose and some new 90s just in case and this time ran them with a bend in them to accept the vibrations and thankfully it held. With a turn of the key it fired up and for the first time the afr looked good. It started to temp up and hit 160 and entered learning mode. I watched as the temp kept creeping up till it reached 220 and showed no signs of slowing. It was at that point I realized I am not sure I set the fan on/off temps and later remembered that I disconnected the fan earlier while trouble shooting electrical problems. Fixed both of those and now its staying at 215 degrees fairly solidly although its a cool day so I would like to see it a little cooler.
  2. 3 points
    Not very significant achievements but I install the sway bar relocation + shorter end-links and started the AN power steering hose swap. More importantly, I squared the k-member and can now begin the end.....to reach the beginning. 🤯
  3. 3 points
    this is what it should be like all the time
  4. 2 points
    well it seems those military splices might have been the root of my stuttering problem. it was an utter shitshow in there. i pulled it all out and seems to be running great. the only problem right now is that it doesn't want to start when turning the key. It's almost like the brand new ignition switch is bad or something. if you move the column up and down, it will fire. going to pull it apart again one night this week and look into the wiring again. perhaps put my old ignition switch back in and test. it was borderline not going to go to the AM show on saturday but i said screw it and brought it. thankfully i did because i took home Best in Class 94-98!
  5. 1 point
    I keep forgetting to update this thread. Car has been here for a few months now. Got it through Spanish inspection, got a tweak to my tune from my tuner but it looks like he nailed the tune for the octane out here on base. Did the front brakes too, backs are still good but I'll do them too. Got a torque wrench that goes to 250 so I can make sure the IRS halfshaft nuts are good every time I rotate the tires. Did the stereo, right into the Mach 460 and it honestly sounds way better than I thought it would. Cut the green/white/grey/purple pigtail off the old line level adapter that was in there and soldered RCA plugs directly onto it and plugged them into my HU and it worked great. Bluetooth, Pioneer ARC app, front USB and aux, tons of options for a $100 stereo. I always get Pioneer and I'm always satisfied. No CD player because its not 2008 anymore. HU is only half as deep as traditional ones because of it and a lot more space so the RCAs aren't bound up or anything against the dash plastic. Little BS cosmetic mod but I like it, changed the logo from blue Steeda to black Steeda. The old one was original to the car in 2000 and was halfway off anyway... I'm surprised it made it as long as it did lol. Next up? Fix the rest of the cosmetic stuff and fix the last thing that is left to fix from the dipshit previous owner which is the window glass. Trying need to go through the front suspension and bushings. New steering rack bushings, Termi A arms with new bushings and balljoints, new swaybar bushings and heim joint endlinks. Not planning on going aftermarket K, I don't see a reason to. Any beefy one is not going to save much weight and I like the protection and strength of the stocker. Then... I'm going to enjoy driving it and toss around whether I want to boost the JY motor that is in there or just wait till I decide on a transmission. By far the most economical thing for me would be to get ahold of Pro Force Performance and get a T45 kit with billet forks, all new guts and a 26 spline shaft and rebuild it myself because I don't think any transmission can make the 75lb milair weight limit to get out here without paying out of my ass for international shipping. It shifts ok now, a little notchy and the input is whining a LITTLE in low RPM, low gear but its not bad at all. Has not gotten any worse in 1500 miles, actually quieted down a bit tbth especially at idle in neutral with the clutch engaged. For boost... honestly if I can get an Eaton swap under the stock GT hood that's the way I'm going to go. And I know of multiple ppl with the 99-04 GT hood that have done it on forums with just a little trimming so I should be good. Can get that shipped out here because it'll break down into multiple boxes easy. IRS diff/halfshafts will also get done whenever I figure out the trans and power adder I'm going to go with so I can get the gears installed in the pumpkin and just shipped out here in one shot. If its the Eaton I'll probably go 3.15s, 3.08s or even 2.73s for supercruise out on these highways plus the T45 has a 3.37 first gear anyway to make up for it. So yeah... that's where I'm at.
  6. 1 point
    VID_20180625_192655038.mp4 by Scott Sorensen, on Flickr
  7. 1 point
    Century arms is the importer from what I understand.
  8. 1 point
    Since you asked.....I shot it today. OMG the gun is a dream. At 50 ft I was blowing the center out of the target, which for a pistol is pretty incredible. Trigger reset is better than any gun I have shot, especially on a factory trigger. I was worried I would have buyers remorse at the $550, but it is very easily worth more. I shot 350 rounds or so. 250 were reloads I bought at a gun show. I had 3 FTE from the batch, however when using 115 grain Federal no issues. There was a notable difference in recoil with the Federal rounds, but this gun is supposed to run with higher grain loads. So right now I completely blame any stove pipe issues on the ammo. All in all, great weapon!
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Awesome work! Completely gutting the interior is absolutely a shit ton of work, props for taking that on for sure. Glad to see you benefited from my write up!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Deadener is a bitch aint it? LOL That audio install is looking clean! Keep it going man!
  13. 1 point
    New wheels are legit! She sounds good too. Nice work!
  14. 1 point
    I got some new (to me) Saleen wheels. I'm not sure if I going to keep them the bronze/gold color. I like them but this car is getting paint work when the motor is back in and I'm not sure it will go with the color I have in mind.
  15. 1 point
    So I got an itch I needed to scratch. The car burns oil like crazy when I let off at WOT. I'm talking James Bond smoke screen! So I'm currently in the process of pulling the engine and cleaning up the bay. I plan on putting in some Scott Rod panels in the fenders, shaving the bay and tucking wires. Here's the process so far and where I'm at to date. Started pulling the live axle and prep for Por15 and undercoating. Before After Once I get the new brake lines in place I'll put the new half shafts in and put the IRS in. I also got a new radiator core support. It's a little daunting cutting into your car lol
  16. 1 point
    DAMN its been a minute! Life gets busy, I've moved yet again and hopefully we'll be here a while lol. March 2017 I was in a motorcycle accident so that slowed me down for about 6 months. Now I'm back at it. So a lot has been done to the car. Everyone loves pics so here they are. First off I was tired of my interior looking drab so I gutted her Planned on just doing the carpet but that factory deadener was horrible, so that shit came up and I wanted to do it right so the dash came out All the factory junk off New deadener going on While the dash was out I gave it some TLC as well Tore apart Wire wheeled all the rust off the frame and gave her a coat of flat black Popped open the HVAC and cleaned it out. Also replaced the AC evaporator and heater core while it was apart just for insurance. Since I did the bezel swap earlier I wanted to use the bottons on the bezel for my defrost and fogs so I did @95riosnake retrofit for the defrost and fogs All wrapped up ready to install Wired In Insulating foam down for vibration, also ran new RCAs and speaker wire to the rear seat area Put down new carpet, Buttoned everything back in and she looks great! Oh and I got Termi seats! They need to be shaved but they look good! Wired them in. For anyone wondering, I couldn't use the belt buckle on the termi seat, had to use the one original to the car. No biggie. Then I had KDezines make me his style rear seat delete, First one for a convertible. Got a battery mount in there as well. The interior is done for now, Still need to do the audio but that's for another day lol. I ended up smoothing (sanding) down my import tail lights and mocking them in, redid the wiring to make them work. Just need to get them polished and they're good to go. Don't mind my bs paint.
  17. 1 point
    Great so I need to add intake cams to my 2018 ported intake project??
  18. 1 point
    that is great info I did not know they changed cams for 15 I have a 2013 f150 coyote engine that is going in my f100 , it will get my intake cams once I switch my 12 gt over to comp stage 3s
  19. 1 point
    i think from a roll, the 94 would win. anything else....probably the 18. anything with a turn, the 18 all the way. smokey burn out to come after i put some miles on it and get different tires. not going to burn up sport cup 2's for no reason. i have michelin pilot sport 4S on order in 305/30 and 325/30 on order. plan is to try and recoup some of that cost by selling the SC2s.
  20. 1 point
    Absolutely the truth!! My next mod will be a 2018 Mustang GT intake: The are nearly on par with the vaunted GT350 intake and can be had for around 400 or ported for 530. My tuner [Tuning by Oz] already supports this upgrade with a quick revision flash. I need to get my truck on the track to get a "baseline" but it's just too hot.
  21. 1 point
    some AM show pics with @Yeahloh95 the 94 took home best in class too!!
  22. 1 point
    first look before they cleaned it up: and as we got drove away with it: and direct sunlight this morning: and now while i wait for the wax to dry:
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    2018 GT 301a w/ black package? best color choice by the way @Number Tews Boss Lady
  25. 1 point
    Looks great dropped! I love the amber LED signature around the headlights of those trucks so much.
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