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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    So guys today I got a piece of the front fender in presentable shape and I just had to share. So real quick, what I'm doing here is I need a buck to pull a pattern from to shape the front fenders. There are many different kinds and ways to build a buck; wood station bucks, foam sheet glued together and carved, wire forms (kind of like what I did with the rear quarter), wire forms covered in mesh, tape, foil whatever and bondo'd over, straight bondo bucks, expanding foam carved, etc. You get the idea. Basically do whatever you gotta do to get a consistent and accurate shape for your pattern. Well I really just wanted to shape some metal. The English wheel has been calling my name and I recently made a mallet and carved a stump I had. I guess this is kind of 'blind shaping' with no buck, but I thought well maybe I can get something in the ballpark and then skim coat it with filler and get nice and smooth and pull my pattern from it to build the actual fenders. So far, I think it will work. The first thing I did a while ago was I sheared a 3/4" wide, 3' long strip of 18 gauge and with the shrinker/stretcher shaped it to match the original fender arch exactly. This is my gauge for the fender arch. I mainly use the shrinker on the inside edge. As the metal shrinks it bunches up and has to go somewhere. This makes for an uneven surface. The outside edge remains smooth though I still took a flexible sanding block to the outside to help out. I sheared another strip, a bit wider, I can't recall exactly, maybe 1.5". Bent it 90 degrees, and armed with the gauge, shaped the angle in the shrinker/stretcher to form a new wheel arch. Since I have the front wheel centerline moved forward, I have located the new wheel arch about 1" forward as well. Got it where I wanted it and used 1/8" sheet metal screws to hold it to that other little fender piece I made a while back. With the shear, brake, bead roller with tipping dies, shrinker/stretcher, and kick punch, a flange for the front lower edge/bumper cover mount was made. Bolted it to the studs on the bumper cover. Got the bumper cover where I wanted it in relation to the fender arch and screwed them together with another 1/8" sheet metal screw. Luckily, in pulling the bumper cover out away from the original fender, the arc of that action moved the rear edge of the bumper cover forward, and met up with the new fender arch location very well. So, I might get away without any substantial modifications to the bumper cover. The bumper cover, headlight support panel, steel bumper and foam filler, etc. are all bolted in place and adjusted normally as well. If you look at the widebody Saleen racecars, it appears that the front lights are all mounted in stock locations, and where the fender starts right after the side marker lights, it bulges out a bit. This is not bad looking to me but I wanted to see if I could get things to flow a bit better, more like the stock setup, just to help make this all look more natural. I simply put some washers behind the mounting stud of the side marker light and snugged it down and it sat just how I wanted it to surprisingly. Then I adjusted the edge of the headlight to match it and flow together. I imagine if I keep the stock halogen bulbs, this would make the headlight aiming kind of cross-eyed, but at this point a project like this I think at least needs a HID projector retrofit, so these angles can be compensated for. Also in this pic, the total amount of widening going on here on this side is 2". The wire form on the rear quarter is about the same, maybe 2 1/8". At this point I laid a piece of paper over the front section of the fender, cut it to shape, transferred to metal, cut it out. With the new mallet and stump I put some shrinks on the edges, and stretched a lot in the middle and started wheeling it out. I was on the right track, but did a little too much stretching in one area and just decided to start new and try to get a bit of a better paper pattern. So just by hand I bent some 1/8" steel rod and taped it to the fender every few inches, wire buck style like the rear quarter. I covered it in paper and the paper is slit and taped up where I want shrinks. So this second panel, I put a few shrinks on the edges again, but the rest of the work and stretching was done with the wheel. Since I have no buck, this method allowed me to see the shape progress. So after many rounds of wheeling, checking on the car, trimming bits of the edges here and there, etc. I have something pretty close to what I had in mind for this fender. A few more tweaks, final trimming, tipping some edges, and then I will weld it to the flanges I made previously. I may or may not weld it to the other little section. Might make a new one that goes all the way back to the door, rather than have to add a small section to it. So I know it'll be hard to really pinpoint if the shape isn't quite right without seeing it in person and really inspecting it from all angles, but let me know what yall think of the overall shape so far and if something looks off. After welding the arch in and blending that in, that edge will all flow a bit smoother, not so squared looking, and then getting the rest of the pieces of the fender made and welded in will probably give a better feel for it all. Also the accent line that runs down the car is not in the fender yet. That's something I need to experiment with. Going to make some dies for the bead roller and see how that works. Thanks for checking things out.
  2. 3 points
    Negatoid! I need to order tires for them, was going to wait on the spring. I was having too much fun taking it out, doing burnouts and not caring about the tires! They should be on starting spring. I actually took it to a friends shop the other day, needed to meet everyone to work on the trucks. I go to leave and I'm like "Do you have angry neighbors?" He was a little confused and then the lightbulb went off. With approval I pull out on to the main street with the intentions of just letting it rip throw first and second. Got carried away and held the brake in second, made lots of smoke and a nice set of black lines down his street
  3. 3 points
    So this happened yesterday. If you're gonna be a bear, be a Grizzly. Decided to put the Full-Tilt Boogie IRS into the Mach1. Dragged the Mach1 rear out and going to take it apart and build it up to handle some drag-strip action in the Cobra including 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators, etc.
  4. 3 points
    Thanks man! I'm glad that I'm able to get things to work better for me. I'm always attempting to optimize; it's never ending. I feel like anything that can be done in the shop that helps increase efficiency, make a better end product, and even just make it a more pleasant and creative place to be is very well worth it. That'll lead me to this next thing. I built a stand a long while back, I think it's in this thread somewhere. It's a 14" steel wheel on some small casters with a pedestal with a receiver hitch on top. And storage for other tools to swap out. I used it for the vise, bench grinder, and some railroad chunks and t-dollies. Well if the grinder was mounted and I needed the vise, or vice versa, I'd try to make do without. Or if I really needed access to more than one thing, say the vise and a dolly. And as a vice stand, it is pretty small and light. So looked to see what kind of stuff I had around here. Gathered some 1/4" plate , leftover horse stall mat from another project, a steel 20" spare from my truck, leftover 4x4x1/4 from the chassis table, and went and picked up some small carriage bolts, washers, cap nuts, and another receiver tube. Laid out a pattern on the plate. Busted out the big Makita and rough cut the baseplate out. Did a secondary cut with the old portaband. Set the wheel on and scribed a line for the hardware. Drilled holes evenly spaced all the way around then set it on the horse mat to transfer the diameter and holes. Cut it out on the portaband too. Drilled holes in the mat With a spade bit, drilled a countersink for the 1/2" carriage bolts. Cut a smaller plate for the wheel center. Fully welded the wheel to the baseplate then mocked up the rest. I wasn't content with the harbor freight receiver tube. Turned down a nut for a set screw/jam bolt for the receiver tube Took the receiver tube, removed the original outer square tube piece, drilled another hole for the jam bolt, stripped the paint. I had a little bit of tube to make a larger outer piece then fully welded the top and put a little stitch on each side on the bottom. Smoothed the weld on the top, welded on the nut for the jam bolt, and tacked up some little bits of 1/4" to bring it all together. IIRC I did two passes on all the seams then smoothed out the welds. Just the root pass on bottom of the receiver tube in this pic. Capped off the root with a weave. Everything all cleaned up, sanded, and ready to go. Welded the small disc from earlier into the wheel, then the pedestal onto it. And there we go. Not done completely at this point but was usable. After some time I went to my metal supplier to get some things for another project and I inquired about having a disc for the top cut out of 1/4" on the plasma. They were able to do it for something like $30 total. Saved me a lot of work. I cut a square out of the middle, fully welded the perimeter and around the tube, then smoothed the perimeter. This is much better. I planned to do this from the start. It sucked dropping things into the wheel. And the wheel itself is so large, I stand on it often to better get at things in the vise. I also removed the swivel base of the vise. It came loose often and I didn't see the need. I sort of 'blueprinted' the vise at this time. Disassembled it, took all the slack out of the screw, squared the movable jaw to the fixed (it can be seen in the previous pic of the vise that the jaws didn't line up), trued up and squared the jaw inserts, greased and reassembled. It's much better to work with and when the jaws fully close, the handle is now straight up and down. I also welded up the valve stem hole. The original plan was to fill it with sand, hence all the fully welding of everything. I still might. Honestly though it is heavy as crap already and very stable. I just need to decide on a color at this point and then I guess it'll be done. Gonna try a local powder coater out. Might just take it to him and tell him to surprise me or try out something new he's been itching to do. We'll see. I love this thing though.
  5. 2 points
    snowed last night and of course the dog gets super excited about it. had to take multiple trips to lick it. this is his path/artwork.
  6. 2 points
    New Devilbiss GTI Prolite spray gun. Supposed to be the bomb, but I havent gotten to use it yet.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    The good news is the Mach1 is back on the road. I drove it last night, but sadly it was sleeting so only very MILD cruising down the road. Alignment is way off due to all new bumpster arms (FTBR) and Camber bolts so I have an appointment setup for 8AM tomorrow to get that fixed. I put the Cobra's Magnapack catback exhaust onto the Mach so it clears the IRS.....wowza does the Mach1 sound good now!!!!!! LOL!!! Hope to drive it tomorrow after alignment and snap some pics/video. Changes made - Removed H&R super sport lowering springs from Mach1 and installed H&R race springs from Cobra onto it. Removed Tokico blue shocks and installed the original Cobra Bilstein shocks. Removed solid 8.8 rear and installed IRS that has the Full Tilt Boogie Racing bushing & bolt upgrades along with their bumpsteer arms/rods. Removed Maganaflow standard exhaust for solid rear and replaced with Magnaflow Magnapack exhaust for IRS rear.
  10. 2 points
    i always thought the proper way to do this was to drill 1/4" holes on both sides and then use zip ties in an X pattern. I see it all the time, so it must be the correct way of doing things.
  11. 2 points
    ugh, where to begin. basically life just has gotten in the way of too much free time. wedding, quick weekish of honeymoon, hunting season, thanksgiving, my birthday, my nehpews birthday, buying a Chevy Traverse. I barely had time to shit. lol
  12. 2 points
    Not sure if anyone still keeps an eye on here or not, but an update. Hopefully the pics work: It was time to take the car to the dyno to get straightened out. Just couldn't seem to get it smooth enough. I have a buddy that is the tech at a local shop so I knew it was in good hands. He spent hours on it, and finally got it straightened out. I was very impressed with the numbers, and consider it a huge success. Ended up at 347/334. As far as what's next... I'll probably spend the winter and spring cleaning the car up. It needs a good cleaning/buff and the interior needs to be finished/put together.
  13. 2 points
    Circu, later bitches! Nice work Ryan! That shit sucks for sure but its a necessary evil. You can have that pipe fitting and threading. I used to hate that shit in service class. That panel wiring gave me goosebumps, so well done and organized.
  14. 2 points
    The hoses themselves aren't the weak link for power steering applications. The method that the hose is engaged by the fittings at each end is where the weak link lies for high pressure. The ferrule design of the PTFE fittings is what makes the connection much stronger than the conventional fittings. Anyway, you are free to run whatever style hoses and fittings you want to run. I did a lot of research before doing braided lines for my car and the resounding opinion from the majority of builders was to use PTFE lined hoses (and yes I know PTFE is the actual material - I said teflon to make it more understandable to anyone reading this who doesn't have an engineering background). If you feel confident your lines are good to go, that's all that matters. PTFE Fittings use a ferrule and a flared nut vs. pinching the rubber between the two halves of the fitting like a conventional AN fitting.
  15. 2 points
    So, some tool stuff to catch up on first. I took some long bolts with an unthreaded shoulder, cut the threaded portion off, turned and faced the hex head on the lathe, and welded them onto the English wheel frame. 5 per side. For anvil storage. I eventually cut the heads off of them though. It was just too much of a hassle to get the anvils over the large head, and it wasn't really needed. The anvils stay on the hooks just fine. I actually welded them on at a very slight angle so gravity keeps the anvils in place too. In hindsight I'd have just used some regular mild steel round bar. I've been bad at taking pictures here lately. One thing I did and I can't find any pics of, is I tried to true up the original anvils I had. Also there are two types of anvils, full radius and ones with flats. I was taught that flats are generally easier to work with. The Harbor Freight anvils are full radius. The also had a lot of runout radially. So I tried to fix this runout and add flats. A few of the anvils, I was able to get to a satisfactory level, others were just horrible. I'm not sure what the problem was as I am an amateur/hobby machinist noob but some of the anvils really turned like crap. I threw in the towel. I heard that the updated anvils from HF are much better. Using one of their coupons I went and picked up a set, I can't remember the cost at this point. $50 or so? The set I bought was also on their clearance rack for some reason. Anyways they were all pretty decent as far as runout goes. Minor corrections only, then I made a huge mess on the lathe sanding and polishing them, but they will be a decent set of anvils now. If interested go to youtube and check out Wray Schelin's Pro Shaper page and he has a detailed video on how to get the best out of these anvils. I had two upper anvils, used the better one and turned/polished it. After a lot of sanding and prep I painted the wheel frame with some Ford light gray that I bought at Tractor Supply. I really like the color. I painted it with a non-foam roller. The thing was shedding like crazy. Look at it closely and the paint is very uhhh...textured. It is consistent though and honestly I really don't think it looks bad. Reminds me of the black crinkle paint on old air cleaners and things. I know we talked about pin striping in previous posts. Maybe I'll add some at a later date. I'm fine with calling it done for now though. While we're at it, the wheel is kinda in this shot, but a while ago I took apart and completely rebuilt, painted, greased, adjusted the the brake. Didn't take any pics of the process though. Painted it the same Ford gray and painted the angle there Miller Blue. Works better now. Was crazy how much BONDO was used to make that thing look nice under the factory silver paint though. I couldn't believe it. Little snippet before pic for comparison. All the little hardware, handles, and pieces of the anvil holders were polished. I originally had the 8 ball, cue ball, and red 3 ball. I decided I didn't want white/red theme so I was just seeing what other balls were available. I decided on the green. Right now I have the 8, 6, and cue ball, but I'll be changing the cue ball to the 14, which is the striped green. 8+6+14=28 which is the day my daughter was born and her name is also Emerald so kinda neat there. So with the wheel finished and working properly finally I gave it a little test run. The stock fender is 20-22 gauge. But I had this piece of 18 gauge leftover from something else. I don't have a buck for the fender yet, but just started wheeling and checking progress as I went. So a little imagination and squinting and you can see what I'm after kinda. I'll be making some dies for the bead roller to experiment with adding that detail line that runs down the side of the car. And yes, wayyy too much camber on that front tire, ha.
  16. 1 point
    The lip looks really cool. I like it. The raised center section is a nice touch and break from the norm of just flat all the way across.
  17. 1 point
    Worked a LOT of overtime and bought a LOT of parts! Eaton Swap parts: 2004 Cobra engine cover: Gaskets galore: Pair of these expensive bastards: These were cleaned up, had a 5 angle valve job and some minor bowl work done: Picked up a used throttle body to clean up: Throttle cable bracket (cable is in a box) New hard ware for the Mach Intake: No pictures yet but I ordered my pistons also!!!!
  18. 1 point
    The griggs cobra does look really nice, your thinking is exactly what i was thinking.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    That's his company. I think he's some kind of supervisor or something. But he borrowed their trailer, fork lift, and a couple workers to bring it all in! They do a lot of really neat stuff. They build a lot at Universal Studios
  21. 1 point
    LOL Now you're starting to sound like Josef! I need to seriously get back to work on it!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    That's what I'm leaning towards. But thought I'd ask just to see what the other colors look like. Of course if the new S550 has a Bullit edition as the rumors have been saying, then I'll have to see what that green looks like.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    My stock bumpsteer/toe link arms were well worn/rusted and looked slightly bent. The new ones from FTBR are larger/BEEFY! and fit great. My alignment guy really liked them. The Mach1 handles really good with the IRS and I have enjoyed driving the last few days (even in the rain). Plus the Magnapacks sound really good.............that reflection of them under the car tho! I also took my solid 8.8 and started disassembling it and dropped it off at Fastlane Motorsports for them to start the build.
  26. 1 point
    If I recall correctly, mine is a super early 95 (November 94 build date)... and no upturns.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    You got the wheels on yet @Steve-Oh
  29. 1 point
    i say keep it the same as the intake. or choose a different color for the VC's and paint the intake to match
  30. 1 point
    Started on my wiring harness yesterday buy that was a lot of work lol thinned out what I'm not using anymore changed the fuel Injector plugs hid all my coil on plugs swap and put all new loom cause the 20 year old stuff was trash. Also extended the iat sensor to the map sensor and wired up the pump Got it all back together today and decided to start the car and it fired right up I was surprised ran pretty smooth. only ran for about 30 seconds then realised the ps wasn't hooked up yet so it started spraying oil lol whoops hoping to button it here soon http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a273755ba85c/received_1834235029919912.mp4
  31. 1 point
    I’m the second owner and have known the family and the car since new. It was 100% original and never been wrecked or modified before me. So so yes I know it’s factory equipped.
  32. 1 point
    The carnage definitely sucks. But the upgrade! Definitely looking forward to it. Love this car.
  33. 1 point
    It drives pretty nice. The mufflers dump right into the backside of the bumper so it rattles real bad, but I think that noise will go away if i correct that. The shop is Carl Ruth's in Shillington. Been there forever. It drives very nice. I want to get a few miles on the clutch, replace the horrible sloppy shifter and secure all the loose odds and ends inside before I really rip on it. Hopefully the trans and rear hold up when that happens.
  34. 1 point
    Another nice day, so i filled in the leading edges of the scoops, sanded down a bit more filler and shot a layer of epoxy primer to seal it all in. A few small pinholes to deal with in each scoop and then the whole car will be ready for a layer of high build primer:
  35. 1 point
    definitely a cool pantry. the fridges are really nice.
  36. 1 point
    Broke this stock 1/2 shaft in my Terminator last weekend at the track. So I put another one in yesterday and its ready to go again!
  37. 1 point
    Steve. You are strong. Thank you.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Today was warmer than it has been for the past few weeks, so i was able to do a little bit. I sanded down the 94-98 sail panel filler and put in another round of the flexible hysol: I also sanded down the filled epoxy on the termi side skirts and put some of the SEM Bumper Bite flexible body filler on so i can fill in the scratches and get them prepped for primer/ paint. I also feathered out some of the chips and paint blisters on the front bumper. No photo, as i plan to try and do a decent looking from splitter for the Termi bumper since i refuse to pay $400 for the factory lip.
  40. 1 point
    Congrats on the times. I know there is more in it. It would be cool to keep running the IRS for the drag setup. But if you ultimately decide to really race it, then a straight axle may be the way to go. I'd be surprised it Melvin and Caleb didn't have enough spare and used parts to build a decent straight axle laying for a cheap price.
  41. 1 point
    sounds like fun trips to the track while also being expensive and frustrating...
  42. 1 point
    37029805535_44fe924c59_o Alright, so I got started with the Metallic Lightning Blue Pearl, and then I realized, that's really hard. So instead, I improved your Foxbody's traction with a nice set of tracks, and I got ol Trump and ol Jong Un to go for a ride in it together. With a rocket. You're welcome.
  43. 1 point
    huge update here. we now have new heat and hot water!!! started with running new wires to the breaker panel on the otherside of the room for the new electric water heater. cleaned up a few wires in there. the new breaker went in on the left. didn't think to grab a picture of the wiring at the end of the install. started cutting up the stuff we didn't need and got them out of the way. also pulled the boiler motor and got that out of the way. the hose peaking out of the bottom is draining the system. the circulator pump shown here is the sunroom one. ended up using the new one that came with the new heater, but kept this one because it's still good. the indirect water heater tank did not want to drain for some reason. had to pull it out full. which sucked. water is freakin heavy!! the spicket knob on the bottom is all the way open and yet no water. had to cut the pipe and shove a cap on it quick to get it out. and gone from the house: supported the circ pumps and piping with straps and cut the water lines going into the boiler. now we can get this pig of a boiler out...which was fun. i thought the full water tank was heavy, boy was i wrong. and then the new one in it's place. it's smaller in just about every way. notice the broken drywall...yeah my ass went through it trying to work the old one out. and you'll notice the floor is all scratched up from inching the old one and the new around. nothing to care about, just exhibiting the weight of these damn things. test fitting the new 50 gal water heater. SOOOOO glad it's not in my kitchen anymore! and now plumbing the new boiler water lines. had to cross them because the old one was the other way around. is what it is. thankfully it was all just nipples of varying sizes, nothing had to be cut. this was the end of the day on wednesday after about 8 hours of working on it. started fresh on thursday then with the water heater and blower install. this was taken later in the day after we got it all more or less in place. you'll also notice we started to wire up the circ pumps on the boiler. got the stove pipe installed and the new line running to the sunroom. and got the boiler fired up for the first time. fired right up, didn't have to mess with bleeding the lines or tweaking it at all. couldn't believe it. chimney pipe (it's 6" vs 8") installed with some rocks to give a backer for some chimney mortar. so much better now too because there is gap between the pipe and drywall unlike originally. can't believe they basically had the old pipe using the drywall as support. so dangerous. we also found out that the pipe ended before getting fully into the chimney. meaning, the pipe just ended when it got to the cinder block of the chimney. so smoke could go into the holes in the block. so stupid and dangerous. this ended pretty much the day for thursday. Friday was just wiring the circ pumps and thermostat zones. had to get a new relay because the way they had wired up was all kinds of wonky. now for the fun part...wiring this bitch. turned out to be a nightmare. spend pretty much all day trying to figure it out and then had to pick it up on saturday because we blew the fuse in the control box and the supply store wasn't open anymore. basically the previous system predicated on the fact that boiler maintained temperature at all times (hot water coil remember), but the new system is only for heat now so we needed to wire it all to come on when any of the zones called for heat. previously, all it did was turn on the circ pump when a zone called, then if the internal temp of the boiler dropped, it would kick on. the garage system was an utter puzzle that i still don't know how on earth it ran. nothing made sense on it. it was a 110v thermostat that went back to the circ pump somehow tied into the basement zone....for the life of us, i don't know how that thing wasn't running 24/7 or ever. ended up running new thermostat wire, got a new thermostat and ran it as it's own zone like it should have been from the get go. the heater has a fan on it so all we did was disconnect that from the system and tie it into a straight 110v feed and use the existing aquastat on it to control the fan. so that's an independent system not tied to the boiler anymore. originally had the upstairs on the controller that comes with the boiler. had to pull it off that module when we realized the way we had it all wired up, the garage would call for heat it was turning on all the zones because it was bridged into that main control trigger. tried variations of the basement relay and wiring in the garage and such, which led to the blown fuse. must have somehow backfed the panel. in the end, we used the existing basement relay and bridged that to the new 3-zone controller which then has all the other three zones (upstairs, sunroom, garage) on it. from that controller it then goes to the boiler provided main controller as a single "zone". so if any zone calls for heat, it triggers that circ pump and fires the boiler. i'll take a finished picture of it tonight. i thought i did but apparently not.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Wanted to talk about lighting. Since there is a lot of tech, this is going to be a series. LED vs HID: https://maddmotorsportsdesign.blog/2017/10/27/led-vs-hid-and-installing-them/ Installing LED: Installing HID: What difference does a housing make: How to make your own retrofits: What do you know about high bulbs? What about LED or HID? Sparing you the technicalities of each, we are going to dive right into what the differences between LED and HID. LED's When searching for LED's, you have to consider the following: Beam angle: The beam angle is what the light will cover. For example, if you have a 60* beam angle, it will have a wider "range" than a beam angle of 20* Color Temperature: That is the color of the light. 5500 is usually "pure white". As you go up in temperature, the color turns more blue. As you go down, it turns more yellow to red. LED quantity: How many LED lights the bulb has. Lumens: How bright the bulb is. For reference, a standard factory halogen setup will produce about 1200 lumens. LED type: Newer LED's are SMD. Operating temperature: How much heat the bulbs emit. Lux: The intensity of the illumination. LED's are more expensive than your standard bulbs. However, they are more efficient, and they are brighter! Main reason to swap over to LED's. When converting over to LED's for blinkers, you will notice that your blinkers will flash quickly, like they are going out, which is normal. The LED's draw less power than the normal bulbs, resulting in them blinking quickly. How do you fix this? Most people wire in resistors. They put a load on the wire, so that the system doesn't think there is something wrong with the bulb. However, there is a problem. The system is still drawing the same amount of power, which defeats one of the LED's purposes. Also, it will heat up the wire, which isn't good. Instead of wire resistors, you use a LED flasher. Generally, the flasher can be found under the dash/steering wheel area. If you have an older car, you will most likely need to change out the flasher. However, if you have a newer car, you will probably be okay. But if you notice your blinkers flashing faster than normal, then thats a good sign that you need to change your flasher. LED's will cost you just under $100 for a good name brand headlight kit. The lighting is crisp and deep and the bulbs are efficient. The bulbs have a longer lifespan than HID's. However, because headlights and fog lights need to be bright, these LED's produce more heat. They usually need a fan, so that they do not overheat and melt things. There are new LED's that do not require a fan, however, be careful. These lights may not be that bright (about 1700 lumens), and if they are bright, they will produce more heat. Because HID's are only for headlights and fog lights, its a simple decision to use LED's for all exterior (except headlights and fog lights) and interior lighting. Because exterior lighting is very important, I decided to spend a little (ok, a lot) more money on name brand lighting. For my interior lighting, I got everything from eBay. For comparison, one 194 bulb at Superbrightleds.com cost $5.95, a pack of 10 194-bulbs on eBay cost $3. For all exterior LED lighting, came out to a total of $158.35, including the flasher. If you want to save a lot of money, check out eBay. Lets talk about HID's. Here are a few things to look at: Bulb: You need to make sure you have the right size and that you have good housing clearance for the added heat. Also, consider if the bulb comes with a fan or not. Ballast: Regulates the voltage supplied to the capsule of gas. Input: This is measured in watts. More watts is not a good thing. Yes, it MIGHT be brighter, but it is also creates more heat. Which mean the bulb will not last as long, and can be bad for housings. There is a claim that the 55w kits are not really 55w, you are just paying the extra money for it. Also, it is highly recommended to stay with 35w. A standard 35w kit will produce about 2500 lumens, while a true 55w will produce about 3500 lumens. More watts aren't always better. Lumens: How bright the bulb is. For reference, a standard factory halogen setup will produce about 1200 lumens. Color Temperature: That is the color of the light. 5500 is usually "pure white". As you go up in temperature, the color turns more blue. As you go down, it turns more yellow to red. Type of kit: "Plug-and-Play", or cut and splice. The price for a good name brand headlight kit will cost you over $100. Which is slightly more expensive than the LED kits. There are more moving parts (bulb, ballast), so more can go wrong. Which can make diagnosing harder. The lighting is not as crisp as LED's, and the bulbs are not as efficient. Also, the bulbs do not last as long as LED's. Because HID's are only for headlights and fog lights, its simple decision to use LED's for all exterior (except headlights and fog lights) and interior lighting. Because exterior lighting is very important, I decided to spend a little (ok, a lot) more money on name brand lighting. For my interior lighting, I got everything from eBay. For comparison, one 194 bulb at Superbrightleds.com cost $5.95, a pack of 10 194-bulbs on eBay cost $3. For all exterior LED lighting, came out to a total of $158.35, including the flasher. If you want to save a lot of money, check out eBay. Disclaimer: Madd Motorsports does not guarantee performance improvements or other benefits. All information is deem accurate to the best of Madd Motorsports' ability, however, it is not guaranteed. Madd Motorsports or any company mentioned above are not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed. Please keep in mind when using LED or HID bulbs, that you have the proper housing. This will prevent "blinding" of oncoming traffic.
  46. 1 point
    Already started tearing my notch apart, fixing some rust on the strut towers, new engine going in, all kinds of fun stuff lol.
  47. 1 point
    technically this is fall already so i can include the new oil fed boiler heater i'm getting put in next week along with a new water heater for the house. hopefully can get back to the basement garage to finish the ceiling. mustang will be getting a stereo install and who knows what else. probably some other interior little things truck probably won't get much of anything.
  48. 1 point
    Pretty sure this guy likes boys. Yep, you can tell
  49. 1 point
    If the engine bay is going to be white, I vote gloss black or gloss white. You can make it super clean looking.
  50. 1 point
    I got pissed off once and kicked something out of anger with my left foot. Broke my big toe. Then realized I had a very long drive thru traffic on my motorcycle while wearing tennis shoes. I feel your pain!!!! Lol
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