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b.mad

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b.mad last won the day on September 29

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About b.mad

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    Male
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    SoCal

My SN95

  • Year
    1994
  • Model
    GT

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  1. The Madd Motorsports POS

    SETRAB PRODUCT PICTURES!! IMG_5351 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_5352 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_5353 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_5356 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_5354 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_5359 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr
  2. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Installing the Carbon Driven overlay made out of real carbon fiber. First thing is first, you will have to remove the gauge cluster from the dash. 20160212_180941 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20160212_183657 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Once that is removed, you will need to separate the bezel from the cluster. 20160212_185525 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr The next thing is a bit harder, because you will need to separate the plastic lens from the bezel. If you have a Dremel, you will be able to cut where the plastic was glued and it will come off. Or if you are careful and patient enough, you can pry it open with a flat head screw driver. It will crack the plastic if you're not careful enough, so watch out. DO NOT HEAT IT UP. It will melt. When you put the lens back on, you can add some silicone to the edges and glue it back, or you can just slap it on like I did. It does not move, and you cannot tell that it isn't glued on. 20160212_191323 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr The overlay comes with adhesive. You will need to peel off the plastic and apply directly to the bezel. Make sure that the surface is cleaned. You can apply and remove, but if you do, the adhesive might wear out. 20161225_101738 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20161225_101858 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Since the cluster was out, I took the opportunity to swap out the cluster lights with LED's. I bought a pack of 10 off of Ebay for a couple of bucks. To this day, they still work with no issues. You will need size 194 bulbs. You can use any color, I used blue. 20160212_193810 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Final: 20161225_103604 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20161225_103609 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20161225_103624 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_8963 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr IMG_8964 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Disclaimer: Madd Motorsports did not pay retail price. Madd Motorsports or Carbon Driven are not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed.
  3. Changing the Cowl Panel

    Just another blog post. Swapping out the original cowl panel, and exchange it for the Carbon Driven carbon fiber cowl panel. However, the same can be applied for any cowl panel exchange. Tools:-10MM socket-8MM socket or wrench-Flat head screw driver-BladeWhen installing the cowl panel, I decided to take off the hood to make things easier, and because my cowl prevented me from taking off a wiper arm. However, that is not needed. You can still work on it with the hood on. To remove the hood, you will use a 10MM socket to remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) of the hinge. You can pull off the hood. Please be aware that if you are using a non-oem hood, you may have some interference issues. We using the Trufiber 3"cowl hood and we have a problem with the hood rubbing the cowl panel when opening it, however, with our stock GT hood, there are no issues whatsoever. 20161202_181248 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrYou will need to remove the wiper arms. To remove the wiper arms, you will need to pull the locking pin, and the arms slide up. REMEMBER TO PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE ARMS ARE MOUNTED! They will slide back into place at any orientation, so remember how they were. Also you will need to remove the weather stripping (AKA Firewall to hood seal), it will just slide out. There are 3 push pins located at the "front" of the panel that will need to be removed. After that, you can just rip it out. Once it is off, you will need to remove the washer nozzle hose and the nozzles so that you can reuse them. When it is removed, flip it upside down and remove the push pins, there is a total of 6. You can also use this time to vacuum everything that accumulated under the panel. 20161202_181959 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrCarbon fiber vs plastic. 20161202_182918 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrIf you purchased a cowl panel with the cowl to windshield rubber, you can skip this step. But if you did not, you will need to remove the OEM rubber. When removing the rubber, keep in mind that the rubber is 13-23 years old. It is brittle and it will tear easily. Since my OEM panel was broken, I just broke it into pieces and removed the rubber that way. If you want to save it, I recommend that you use a blade to start it, and slowly rip it off. Once you get it off, put some think double sided tape (or good glue) on the cowl panel you are installing. 20161202_184926 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrOnce you are done, install the rubber, nozzle hose and nozzles, and the 6 push pins that you were removed from the bottom side of the OEM panel. If you are replacing with a carbon fiber piece, please be aware that it is extremely stiff and does not bend easily. If you try to bend it, it will snap. You will need to loosen the exterior A-Pillar trim a bit so that you can wiggle it in. To loosen up the trim, you will need to open your door, look where the hinges are and located the trim fender bolt. I believe it is a 8MM bolt. You can try to fit a socket, however, a wrench was easier for me. 20161202_182103 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrAfter that, wiggle it in place and push the panel into place by using the 6 pins. After that, install the 3 push pins on the front, and install the firewall to hood seal. Dont forget to tighten up the exterior trim bolt. 20161202_193930 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20161202_193935 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrDont forget the wiper arms!20161202_201207 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrAnd the hood!20161202_203808 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrTada!20161203_161707 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20161203_160112 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20161203_160047 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrDisclaimer: Madd Motorsports or Carbon Driven are not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed.
  4. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Just another blog post. Swapping out the original cowl panel, and exchange it for the Carbon Driven carbon fiber cowl panel. However, the same can be applied for any cowl panel exchange. Tools: -10MM socket -8MM socket or wrench -Flat head screw driver -Blade When installing the cowl panel, I decided to take off the hood to make things easier, and because my cowl prevented me from taking off a wiper arm. However, that is not needed. You can still work on it with the hood on. To remove the hood, you will use a 10MM socket to remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) of the hinge. You can pull off the hood. Please be aware that if you are using a non-oem hood, you may have some interference issues. We using the Trufiber 3"cowl hood and we have a problem with the hood rubbing the cowl panel when opening it, however, with our stock GT hood, there are no issues whatsoever. 20161202_181248 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr You will need to remove the wiper arms. To remove the wiper arms, you will need to pull the locking pin, and the arms slide up. REMEMBER TO PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE ARMS ARE MOUNTED! They will slide back into place at any orientation, so remember how they were. Also you will need to remove the weather stripping (AKA Firewall to hood seal), it will just slide out. There are 3 push pins located at the "front" of the panel that will need to be removed. After that, you can just rip it out. Once it is off, you will need to remove the washer nozzle hose and the nozzles so that you can reuse them. When it is removed, flip it upside down and remove the push pins, there is a total of 6. You can also use this time to vacuum everything that accumulated under the panel. 20161202_181959 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Carbon fiber vs plastic. 20161202_182918 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr If you purchased a cowl panel with the cowl to windshield rubber, you can skip this step. But if you did not, you will need to remove the OEM rubber. When removing the rubber, keep in mind that the rubber is 13-23 years old. It is brittle and it will tear easily. Since my OEM panel was broken, I just broke it into pieces and removed the rubber that way. If you want to save it, I recommend that you use a blade to start it, and slowly rip it off. Once you get it off, put some think double sided tape (or good glue) on the cowl panel you are installing. 20161202_184926 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Once you are done, install the rubber, nozzle hose and nozzles, and the 6 push pins that you were removed from the bottom side of the OEM panel. If you are replacing with a carbon fiber piece, please be aware that it is extremely stiff and does not bend easily. If you try to bend it, it will snap. You will need to loosen the exterior A-Pillar trim a bit so that you can wiggle it in. To loosen up the trim, you will need to open your door, look where the hinges are and located the trim fender bolt. I believe it is a 8MM bolt. You can try to fit a socket, however, a wrench was easier for me. 20161202_182103 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr After that, wiggle it in place and push the panel into place by using the 6 pins. After that, install the 3 push pins on the front, and install the firewall to hood seal. Dont forget to tighten up the exterior trim bolt. 20161202_193930 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20161202_193935 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Dont forget the wiper arms! 20161202_201207 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr And the hood! 20161202_203808 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Tada! 20161203_161707 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20161203_160112 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr 20161203_160047 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr Disclaimer: Madd Motorsports or Carbon Driven are not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed.
  5. Product pictures!IMG_5351 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrIMG_5352 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrIMG_5353 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrIMG_5356 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrIMG_5354 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrIMG_5359 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr
  6. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Decided to switch up my exhaust and drop the Magnapacks, in favor of the Widow Makers. On start up, you can hear the difference. It still retains its deep tone, but adds some aggressiveness to it. And its a bit louder
  7. The Madd Motorsports POS

    LOL. God forbid he shows that car some love again. But I am going to feel his struggle soon, I am looking for a house too
  8. The Madd Motorsports POS

    I would have probably mounted it higher to hit the high pressure area, but in the front is where you want it to be. Best airflow you can get. But I dont want to do that because then it throws heat into the radiator. lol. So this fan is perfect because i can mount it anywhere. You can still get the Setrab one
  9. The Madd Motorsports POS

    I know what you guys are thinking. WHAT DOES THIS THING COST?????????????????????? WHY CANT I FIND IT ONLINE??!?!?!?Heres the deal guys, the product has not been released yet, so it is a bit of a waiting game. Which is perfectly fine, because it will give you a chance to save up the MSRP of $289. And it gives you a chance to source your fittings and hoses and get a good price. I will be posting up more information as I go on, but for now, ask questions! Also, I highly recommend that you contact Setrab USA. Call them or email them. We are here to help! http://www.setrabusa.com/consult/index.htmlinfo@setrabusa.com740-625-6228
  10. I know what you guys are thinking. WHAT DOES THIS THING COST?????????????????????? WHY CANT I FIND IT ONLINE??!?!?!?Heres the deal guys, the product has not been released yet, so it is a bit of a waiting game. Which is perfectly fine, because it will give you a chance to save up the MSRP of $289. And it gives you a chance to source your fittings and hoses and get a good price. I will be posting up more information as I go on, but for now, ask questions! Also, I highly recommend that you contact Setrab USA. Call them or email them. We are here to help! http://www.setrabusa.com/consult/index.htmlinfo@setrabusa.com740-625-6228
  11. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Hello! For those of you who follow the build, you know that I recently got a Tech Sponsorship with Setrab USA! For those who dont follow, now you know lol. So a bit of background, I have a 1994 GT that was a daily driver, now its going to be more track oriented (autocross and road racing). The car was working good, until about the first of this year, when during a canyon run, power steering fluid gushed all over the engine bay. After that, it was downhill from there. Event after event, problems with the pump running dry because of spilled fluid. Had to figure out how to keep the temps low. Tried turning on the oil cooler fans, had to turn off my car in between runs, and had to adjust my driving to the point where I wasnt even trying anymore. One last event, it ran dry, and that was the last of that event. You can see the videos below where the steering locked and prevented me from steering, went straight for the comes. https://www.youtube.com/embed/7HjfA4eB9YQ?start=23 Same video, but different timehttps://youtu.be/7HjfA4eB9YQ?t=1m11sAnd another one, but luckily this one was at the end. But you can see how much I had to adjust, brake earlier, and adjust transitions. https://youtu.be/t535kCai6aY?t=1m22sOverall, bad combo. In racing, heat is probably your #1 enemy/competitor. We didnt help the 23 year old power steering pump by mounting huge and sticky 275's up front, and beating it around the track for about a year straight. It was clear the pump did not want to work anymore. How do you solve the problem? First, you should get rid of that pump, and probably NOT go with an OEM replacement. But, many of us do not have fabrication skills, the time, or the money to do that. Even then, there is no guarantee that it will solve your issue. So what do we do? Just keep breaking pump and hope we dont crash? There is a solution. Ladies and Gentlemen, I introduce you to the Setrab USA's Oil Cooler Fanpack (Part#FP113M22I). As many of you know, Setrab is a leader in the oil cooler industry, and is used by some brands as an OEM oil cooler. Because the cooler can be used for any fluid, we should call it a fluid cooler. Is your diff oil overheating? Oil? What about your power steering fluid? Cooler is your solution. I wont bore you with the technical details of fluid, heat, blah blah blah. I will save that for the blog. However, I will be going over how to connect and install the cooler, as well as places to install, and reap its benefits. For now, enjoy some shitty pictures I took with my phone at work. Because I was too excited to wait till I got home.
  12. Hello! For those of you who follow the build, you know that I recently got a Tech Sponsorship with Setrab USA! For those who dont follow, now you know lol. So a bit of background, I have a 1994 GT that was a daily driver, now its going to be more track oriented (autocross and road racing). The car was working good, until about the first of this year, when during a canyon run, power steering fluid gushed all over the engine bay. After that, it was downhill from there. Event after event, problems with the pump running dry because of spilled fluid. Had to figure out how to keep the temps low. Tried turning on the oil cooler fans, had to turn off my car in between runs, and had to adjust my driving to the point where I wasnt even trying anymore. One last event, it ran dry, and that was the last of that event. You can see the videos below where the steering locked and prevented me from steering, went straight for the comes. [video=youtube_share;7HjfA4eB9YQ]https://youtu.be/7HjfA4eB9YQ?t=23s[/video]Same video, but different timehttps://youtu.be/7HjfA4eB9YQ?t=1m11sAnd another one, but luckily this one was at the end. But you can see how much I had to adjust, brake earlier, and adjust transitions. [video=youtube_share;t535kCai6aY]https://youtu.be/t535kCai6aY?t=1m22s[/video]Overall, bad combo. In racing, heat is probably your #1 enemy/competitor. We didnt help the 23 year old power steering pump by mounting huge and sticky 275's up front, and beating it around the track for about a year straight. It was clear the pump did not want to work anymore. How do you solve the problem? First, you should get rid of that pump, and probably NOT go with an OEM replacement. But, many of us do not have fabrication skills, the time, or the money to do that. Even then, there is no guarantee that it will solve your issue. So what do we do? Just keep breaking pump and hope we dont crash? There is a solution. Ladies and Gentlemen, I introduce you to the Setrab USA's Oil Cooler Fanpack (Part#FP113M22I). As many of you know, Setrab is a leader in the oil cooler industry, and is used by some brands as an OEM oil cooler. Because the cooler can be used for any fluid, we should call it a fluid cooler. Is your diff oil overheating? Oil? What about your power steering fluid? Cooler is your solution. I wont bore you with the technical details of fluid, heat, blah blah blah. I will save that for the blog. However, I will be going over how to connect and install the cooler, as well as places to install, and reap its benefits. For now, enjoy some shitty pictures I took with my phone at work. Because I was too excited to wait till I got home.
  13. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Hello, So i am using my blog to post about things. One of those things, wheel specs for the 94-98 with coilovers. I copied the text here (no photos), but here is the link: maddmotorsportsdesign.blog/2017/10/10/sn95-1994-1998-wheel-specsoffset/Disclaimer: These are estimated specs and in no way guaranteed. Madd Motorsports will not be responsible for incorrect fitment of wheels and not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed. We will be using terms that are unfamiliar to some, or some that I made up to help grasp the concept of specs. Mounting surface: The mounting surface of a wheel is the surface that touches the rotor hat. Backspacing: is the space from the mounting surface to the edge of the inner rim (to the back) Front spacing: is the space from the mounting surface to the edge of the outer rim (to the front) Offset: Where the mounting surface sits in relation to the width of the wheel. So first and foremost, you need to determine if you are going to run the conventional coil-spring setup, or if you are going to run coilovers. Because it matters. Coilovers will give you less backspacing to play with because of the diameter of the coilover combo.Also, if you are using 94/95 spindles, or if you are using 96-04 spindles.There are other things to take into consideration like camber specs, however, all you have to remember is negative camber will cause the top of the wheel to sit more inside of the fender. To keep things simple, we are only going to talk about offsets for 94-98 SN95's with coilovers, specifically with a 2.5" OD coil. Keep in mind that the taller the overall diameter of the tire is, the less room you have to play with. If you use spacers, it will increase the front spacing, while keeping the backspacing. Also, caliper clearance is very important when discussing specs. The "pad" should be sufficient for whatever caliper you are using.If you are using the 94/95 spindles, you will have a 6.23" backspacing before you hit the coil. And you have about 3.77" of front spacing. That means you can fit a 10" wide wheel up front with an offset of +18. For the 96+ spindles, it moves the wheels outward about 5MM per side, as per Maximum Motorsport's website. That is a backspacing of 6.42" and front spacing of about 3.58". You can have a 10" wide wheel up front with an offset of +23.In the rear, if you want a wide wheel, be prepared to have your quad shocks removed. You should not have anything wider than an 11-11.5" wheel. The reasons for that are:1.) You will need to pull your quarter panels and banging the crap out of the inner fenders, and 2.) You will have a hard time getting in and out of driveways. You have about 6.98-7.23" back spacing before you really start having issues. And about 4.27-4.52" of front spacing. So if you really want to push your luck, you can fit an 11.5" with +18 offset, or be a little safer with an 11" with a +20 offset. How do tires play a role? If you are worried about clearance, you will need to keep the tire size in mind because if you are going wide, it will limit your clearance. For example, you have an 11" wheel. You can use a 295 (11.5"), 305 (12"), or 315 (12.5"). A 295 will not take up as much room as a 315.For reference, I ran a 19x9.5 +25 with a 275/35/19 in the front, and 19x11 +25 305/30/19 in the rear, running -1.5* camber, lowered about 2" all around. This is how it fit.Front:20160101_164324 Rear:Trying to make clearanceOverall:20160101_164314Another reference is Cody Fodder's 1994 Cobra. He is using 17x10 +18 all around on 275/40/17 Falken AZENIS RT615K+. He is using a +25mm spacer in the rear. IMG_4981 IMG_4983IMG_4985
  14. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Hello, So i am using my blog to post about things. This is a write up on how to replace the cowl panel/vent thing, and how I did mine. Here is the link: https://maddmotorsportsdesign.blog/2017/10/16/carbon-driven-cowl-panel-change/Tools: -10MM socket -8MM socket or wrench -Flat head screw driver -BladeWhen installing the cowl panel, I decided to take off the hood to make things easier, and because my cowl prevented me from taking off a wiper arm. However, that is not needed. You can still work on it with the hood on. To remove the hood, you will use a 10MM socket to remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) of the hinge. You can pull off the hood.You will need to remove the wiper arms. To remove the wiper arms, you will need to pull the locking pin, and the arms slide up. REMEMBER TO PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE ARMS ARE MOUNTED! They will slide back into place at any orientation, so remember how they were. Also you will need to remove the weather stripping (AKA Firewall to hood seal), it will just slide out. There are 3 push pins located at the “front” of the panel that will need to be removed. After that, you can just rip it out. Once it is off, you will need to remove the washer nozzle hose and the nozzles so that you can reuse them. When it is removed, flip it upside down and remove the push pins, there is a total of 6. You can also use this time to vacuum everything that accumulated under the panel.Carbon fiber vs plastic.If you purchased a cowl panel with the cowl to windshield rubber, you can skip this step. But if you did not, you will need to remove the OEM rubber. When removing the rubber, keep in mind that the rubber is 13-23 years old. It is brittle and it will tear easily. Since my OEM panel was broken, I just broke it into pieces and removed the rubber that way. If you want to save it, I recommend that you use a blade to start it, and slowly rip it off. Once you get it off, put some think double sided tape (or good glue) on the cowl panel you are installing.Once you are done, install the rubber, nozzle hose and nozzles, and the 6 push pins that you were removed from the bottom side of the OEM panel.If you are replacing with a carbon fiber piece, please be aware that it is extremely stiff and does not bend easily. If you try to bend it, it will snap. You will need to loosen the exterior A-Pillar trim a bit so that you can wiggle it in. To loosen up the trim, you will need to open your door, look where the hinges are and located the trim fender bolt. I believe it is a 8MM bolt. You can try to fit a socket, however, a wrench was easier for me.After that, wiggle it in place and push the panel into place by using the 6 pins. After that, install the 3 push pins on the front, and install the firewall to hood seal. Dont forget to tighten up the exterior trim bolt.Dont forget the wiper arms!And the hood!Tada!Disclaimer: Madd Motorsports or Carbon Driven are not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed.
  15. The Madd Motorsports POS

    Hello, So i am using my blog to post about things. This is a write up on how to make an air dam, and how I did mine. Here is the link: https://maddmotorsportsdesign.blog/2017/09/26/making-an-air-dam-for-the-sn95-mustangs/If you want to run a splitter, you absolutely need an air dam. There are several options out there to use. You can use the Mach 1 chin spoiler, Boss Shinoda Chin Spoiler, ABC Exclusive air dam, or you can order one from me, or you can make your own. How easy it is? Pretty damn easy. The only problem with making your own is you will need to drill holes into your bumper. However, if you are feeling adventurous and creative, you can easily tackle it yourself in a weekend. 20170805_135813Oct-30-2016-Speed Ventures - Blue - Turn 4 Tight - AC2_8719_Oct3016_by_CaliPhotoIMG_0436I've used several different materials, and the easiest to work with was HDPE (High-density polyethylene). It is cheap, it is easy to work with, and FLEXIBLE! Which is really important because of the shapes of the bumpers. You can get a roll of the HDPE in the form of "Race Roll Plastic". It is usually 25-45 bucks a roll. 20170720_105324Because it is rolled, you will need to support both sides so it doesn't roll back into itself. Once you figure out how you are going to do that, take the roll outside into the sun and extend it out. This will heat the the plastic and stop it from rolling back. Leave it out there for whatever time, just enough to heat it up. You can even work on it outside. Because the sheet comes in a 22"x 10' roll, you will need to cut it. You can cut it with a box cutter knife or some sheet metal cutters like I did. This is the easy part because I am letting you in on a secret, you will only need about 6"-8" (or 10" if you want to look really low) of the roll. Mark it and cut it and put the risk away. Next you will need to measure the length needed. To keep things simple and clean, I used the "cut" on the side of the bumper as a reference part. This part:20170805_142323So once you measure the length and figure out how low you want it, you cut it. So that it fits what you like. Make sure you cut out for the fog light and make sure you measure! If you have a cobra, you can use a 3"-3.5" hack saw to make the holes. If you have it, start drilling! 20170805_10313320170805_123221 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_122106 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_122131 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_123221 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_132726 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_132729 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_133911 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_135352 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_135810 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_135813 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_135826 by brandon madrigal, on FlickrMake sure you secure the air dam! Especially around the fog lights!20170805_132723 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_122121 by brandon madrigal, on Flickr20170805_142312Also, if you want to take a moment and paint the hardware so that it does not contrast with the plastic that is used (unless you want it to). I also recommend that you have more than 6 secure points, because 6 is NOT doing to do a good job. Tada, you have yourself an air dam, now you can move on to the splitter. Please click this link: http://maddmotorsportsdesign.blog/2017/09/26/making-a-splitterair-dam-for-the-sn95-mustang for information on how to make a splitter. Disclaimer: Madd Motorsports is not responsible for any injuries, any damage whatsoever, or for incorrect installation. This is a guide meant to help, it is in no way guaranteed.
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