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OLD H2S

Supporting Member
  • Content count

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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OLD H2S last won the day on October 2

OLD H2S had the most liked content!

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14 On a distinguished road

About OLD H2S

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday October 18

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    micrometrics@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Silver Spring, Maryland
  • Interests
    Industrial Arts

Additional Info

  • How you found us
    email
  • Real Name
    Thomas Doan

My SN95

  • Year
    1996
  • Model
    GT
  • Color
    Midnight Blue

Recent Profile Visitors

213 profile views
  1. Old Fart's AutoX build

    I talked with Mark the Ford cam designer at Bullet Cams about my McKenny design motor, he knows it well and said it will never knock. He said the heads are lifting because I need more duration on the exhaust lobes on the up-dated PI cam. So I am getting cams with .530 lift for both intake and exhaust, 221-226 @ .050, 109 separation angle. They will take 2 weeks to get here and the Cometic gaskets will take 2 weeks too, so I will pull the engine tomorrow and report back. Next I am upping it to 14:1
  2. Old Fart's AutoX build

    I talked to Cometic and they say they can hold the pressure but.....the CR jumps up to 14:1 with their choice for gaskets, pricey too.
  3. Old Fart's AutoX build

    Passenger head is tight with the studs holding. Head looks good but number 4 must of had some water leaking to have such a high compression number. the driver side is tight to work on and I have not gotten the valve cover off yet to look around and my 8mm deep socket took off flying to parts unknown from the zip gun so until my new on comes tomorrow I am working slow.
  4. Happy birthday, Old Fart

  5. Old Fart's AutoX build

    I have reused them too , but not this time around. Next.........MILKSHAKE in the oil this morning. And look at these numbers: 4-320 331-8 3-268 318-7 2-262 237-6 1-270 263-5 I just did the compression check and leak down test, number 8 dropped 10 psi in 30 seconds and that was the fastest leaker the rest were only down 5 psi in 30 seconds, WTF? cylinders 5,6,7,8 had water in them, number 4 showed water in the spark plug hole? If the intake manifold is leaking how did the water get into the cylinders? Some thing is wrong, I do not think I could have cracked all 4 ports on one side of the motor? The water passages are only at the thermostat housing at at the back of the head as far as big channels go. I took out the plugs 5-8 yesterday and only number 8 had water in it that I could see but when I just did the compression check a ll 4 had some water in them and spinning the engine over with some WD_40 in them made a huge mess every where. I need your comments please, helps me to focus and think about ways things fail. I will update when I get the intake off. The new plugs looked crappy on that bank with pitting and melting on the center electrode and the were Bosch 4 strap types with the platinum centers so that bank could have been lifting or leaking some how? Bank 1-4 looked brand new, clean porcelain, like they were not even firing so the tune on bank one looked good. Here are some other observations: The parts store was out of "Right Stuff" black sealant that I LOVE for 20 years, They had the new "Euro Formula" grey type instead and it sucks, It is showing oil seepage everywhere used and it is used on the intake but I have not gotten that far yet. seems to hold only against air leaks so far. Next, some time back I mentioned I was having trouble with my Snap-On compression tester, it was a good one but getting flaky and Iam picky about testing numbers all the time because I have to make businesses decisions worth big money when I am working based on test data. I make people mad when I want a re-test and the numbers had better be the same or I am going to find out why. So I looked hard at all the types of compression testers out and I am not impressed with any of them now for repeatability. I bought a Mighty-Vac digital type as the best reviewed and from a good company with other tools I use that are well made. I love it, the repeatableity is perfect and it does a leak down counter at the same time, just count to 30 and see what the second number is on the dial. Yes it was over 100 dollars for the kit and I have checked it against 3 other analog type with data coming out all over the place so not that my word is worth squat but I sure am glad when I see the numbers above and I checked twice because they are so high foe a 12.5:1 motor...must be the milk shake mud sealing up the rings? Help me!
  6. Old Fart's AutoX build

    I used a Fel Pro Perm torque .050 thick gasket this time, do any of you have a better suggestion for a high compression build? I will talk to Bullett Cams and see what changes I can make. When I do the tear down I will look for miss matching from the truck heads to the 3 valve block and the aluminum intake.
  7. Old Fart's AutoX build

    Well it is ether the .050 thick head gasket gave out or a cracked head. I am going to try to pull the heads off with the motor in the car. Remove the head studs and see if I can get it apart, lower end should be fine.
  8. Old Fart's AutoX build

    Went to start the engine and clunk...not turning over, number 8 cylinder is full of water.
  9. Old Fart's AutoX build

    Sorry for the dead time, computer problems....seems good now. The car runs good, I was blasting down the road today and came over the hill and 2 cops sitting there waiting for me, my time I thought... no response from them, strange? Then I remembered........missing child reported, 17 year old boy did not make it home yesterday from school, good kid, goes to the gym where my son works, sad time around town.
  10. Old Fart's AutoX build

    Yeah I know I want more.... just like boost. I just went through all my build pictures looking for more, more, MORE. How much more lift and duration can I get...
  11. Old Fart's AutoX build

    12.5:1
  12. Old Fart's AutoX build

    I built a torque brace out if some 3/8" thick bar stock. Car drives completely different, much smoother. I took the car back to McNews in Dillsburg to get the tune adjusted in the 500-2500 RPM range. The final numbers are 266 RWHP and I lost 10 feet of torque in the midrange with the Edelbrock intake manifold. I was standing next to the engine at 7000 RPM and no movement and sounding smooth. So if I want more out of this motor I'm to need a bigger cam.
  13. Old Fart's AutoX build

    I talked to MM about Rallycross and they said no problem they have lots of customers do it and the Mustang is good because larger diameter tires are used and that is an advantage over the normal contestants. So I went on Saterday down to the Rally Farm and watched.....and watched...all day. Got some rides in hot cars. And the cream still rises to the top, the Mazda Miata and the Ford Focus I think were the best because of their light weight, OLD Subarus are OK but everyone is stuck with small tires. The day is only 4 runs at 1 minute each so not much seat time and saw lots of damage but looks like fun, but I think I might have too much power and would need tractor tires in the rear to hook up. Going road racing is still the most seat time but at a higher price.
  14. Old Fart's AutoX build

    How about a torque brace? I would like to keep the supension soft as possible with all the sold parts on the car now. Some bumps are bone jarring but it will go around a corner tight. Hard to have it all. Anyone thought about Rallycross in the 2 wheel drive class? Spin the coilovers up and get some big snow tires...
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