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Neverenuff1

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About Neverenuff1

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • How you found us
    Friend

My SN95

  • Year
    1997
  • Model
    GT
  • Car
    Mustang
  • Color
    Rio Red

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  1. SN95 Coyote Swap

    Some old photos when I first picked up my Cervini hood and had 17" FR500 replicas with an SRA.
  2. SN95 Coyote Swap

    First things first, this is a post build write-up- still only 95% done, soon to have a built t-45 or t-56 and A/C! Not sure which one I'm the most excited about. Car started as a non-PI '97 Mustang GT, and this is the 4th engine I've had in it in the last ten years. Here is most of the "bucket" of bolts! -2012 F150 Coyote engine w/50k -FRPP Coyote Engine Control pack P/N: M-6017-504V -Power By the Hour Coyote Swap Accessory Bracket kit- (this requires the alternator, 96-10 or 2011 up mounted backwards and retains factory AC and power steering locations.) -Engine Wiring Harness- if you purchase a used engine- P/N :BU5Z-12A581-GB (double check engine years, they changed the Ti-VCT plugs) -Factory / aftermarket 4.6 motor mounts will work -4.6 bellhousing Spacer Plate (Manual) P/N: M-7007-A -4.6 Starter - Use the smaller 4.6 starter to clear the headers, the factory coyote unit is larger in diameter -New style timing cover P/N: BR3Z6019G (this is a must for Power By the Hour Kit) -BBK Longtube headers P/N 1634 -BBK swap X-pipe -Custom 3" IRS cat-back with Magnaflow ss round mufflers -Battery relocation kit (this is custom to you or your shop to install, I have a rear mounted starter solenoid, On/Off kill switch behind my license plate, you might get away with a small battery in factory location or mounting it in fender) -8-bolt flywheel (I found a good deal on a Fidanza aluminum piece, any 99-04 8 bolt one will do) -Aftermarket 1999-04 Clutch (array of clutches out there but stock will not last) -Fuel Pressure regulator - Many choices as long as it goes to 55 PSI, I purchased the Aeromotive piece P/N: AMV 13129 Return Style - Must use ORB fittings! Fuel fittings / EFI braided hose (I connected to the factory return style system, still pricey and tedious) PM me if you have questions on this. Multiple trips to the local parts store, I have all part numbers. -Fuel pump - USA made Walboro 255 unit, this is the minimum lph required -Division X dual fuel hat -Glenn's Performance 03-04 sumped fuel tank -Billet Fuel Pedal bracket (Scram Speed) -Ford Racing Speed-Dial ( this is a must for 96-98 VSS transmissions, it is a factory fix to tell the new coyote computer that your car is moving, however I believe you can wire 99-up OSS transmissions directly to the ECU) -Ford Racing Plug Pins (two) This enables you to re-pin the factory 50-Way "Key C" harness, not too difficult, I will explain in the write-up. Call FORD RACING they shipped them free-of charge. -Factory Mustang intake camshafts, F150 ones are good too, and will save you $$$ on the factory torque to yield hardware. P/N: Left - BR3Z-6250-F / Right- BR3Z-6250-E - -Coyote heater hoses - right + left -Various shims and spacers, my set-up includes Maximum Motorsports K-member spacers, Scram Speed motor mount spacers, and a Stifflers transmission cross member Chassis/suspension/safety: -Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors -MM six point -UPR front suspension, k-member, control arms, coil-overs -2001 Cobra IRS with Full Tilt Boogie bushing kit -Tokico blues front/ Bilstein rears Steering: -Canton powder coated p/s reservoir -03-04 rack and pinion -MM steering shaft Interior: -Corbeau GTS II seats -ACC carpet -Autometer Phantom II temp and oil gauges There is more to come....... Here you can see the new intake cam installed, make sure to use ARP ultra torque lube when installing the cam cap bolts. Do not forget to lube the cam journals as well. This is a good link to properly time the camshafts and you will need a 1- 1/2 wrench or large adjustable wrench. http://www.americanmuscle.com/compcams-xfinsr-camshafts-1112gt-install.html This is Scram Speeds pedal bracket installed, the pedal that comes with the kit has three ears on it, the upper right hand one needs to be trimmed in order to fit against the firewall. Here is a picture with it installed and the air box that comes with the FRPP control pack- does not fit well also installed is the old 4.6 alternator, RIP.
  3. SN95 Coyote swap Master Thread

    not my build thread, sorry
  4. SN95 Coyote swap Master Thread

  5. Welcome To SN95Source.com: Neverenuff1

    Hello, Thank you for the warm welcome! -My name is Rick originally from St, Louis, now stationed in Ventura, CA. A little background on my SN95(sixth mustang), bought the car back in 2007 in Jacksonville FL. Looked similar to a 4x4 so I slammed it with drop-zone springs and put 17x8/10 Bullitt replicas on it, rode horrible!. A few weeks passed and I sold the lowering kit wheels included for half of what I paid for it.. bummer I know. Went back and forth on deciding to sell it or keep it so I did a PI swap and ran great until the temp gage spiked and I found oil in the coolant. At first I thought it was a head gasket or the head was warped. Time to upgrade.. purchased a set of ported and polished stage 2 MMR heads and sold the factory ones. To no avail, still oil in the coolant- turns out I warped the iron block! Purchased an old Thunderbird non-pi and put it in just to get it mobile and decided hey why not swap in a coyote! Which brings us here.
  6. SN95 Coyote swap Master Thread

    Hello, I still need to do an introduction thread.. I will shortly. Anyhow, the BBK headers+x-pipe are a great and fit as well as a set of longtubes and 3" x-pipe can fit in a sn95 chassis. They (x-pipe) do hit the t45 cross-member and a hammer to the pipe cures most of the fitment issues(currently run a Stifflers but I want to make my own out of angle iron and the factory member). Also needed are spacers between the motor mounts and the K member, which enables the use of the factory oil pan. Moroso pans do not fit according to threads/reviews without notching, They say Canton's fit with minimal clearance between oil pan and header. -The "stall" issue that started many forums bashing the swap is....scary as hell! Not to deter you in any way but hammering on the throttle and come to find out your vehicle shuts off in the process is not for the faint of heart. There are a few remedies however, the FRPP speed cal is a great option and I currently run the controller, also a few knowledgeable tuners out there can fix the situation as well. The computers on these engines are self-learning and have to have a signal saying the vehicle is in motion. -PBTH accessory bracket kit and the Boss 302 alternator kit + the clutch-less pulley are the best route for the swap IMO. The factory 4.6 alternator just doesn't like pulls past 7k - Starter, the 4.6 starter is smaller in diameter than the 2011 and up coyote starter. it gets sandwiched between the passenger side header and the block -FR Control Pack breeze to wire, I believe its 4 wires that are needed for the ignition, you will need a location for the power distribution box(glove box works well) and enlarge a hole through the firewall into the cabin as the connector is 3-4" rectangle -Clutch- Again, these engines like to spin, my current headache is my clutch. Started with a RAM, then Exedy and now moving to a Spec stage 2 as it's my daily. Never spent over $200 on a clutch but now it looks like cheap insurance(Mantic kits for 2011 and up coyotes are $1500!) Look forward to following your build! Good luck and let me know if I can help in any way.
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