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ThomasW last won the day on January 18

ThomasW had the most liked content!

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About ThomasW

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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My SN95

  • Year
  • Model
  • Car
    1999 V6 and GT
  • Color
    Changing daily

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  1. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Its never to late! Lol I didnt check to see if they would fit 17’s but, i had to space the caliper further away from the spindle centerline by 3/32”, which will have taken nearly all (if not all) of the radial clearance between the caliper and the inner surface of the wheel barrel, so i would say with 99% certainty, 17’s wont fit. Price wise, no idea. Probly somewhere around the same price as the ftr kit with hardware, anodized brackets and the spacer. These brackets use a 3/16 spacer between the hub and the rotor. They also require NON-reversible modifications to the spindle itself. Modifications involve drilling/tapping the stock lower caliper mount hole and also grinding the outer surface of that “tang” with a bevel to provide clearance for the caliper to fit. The Calipers themselves require some slight grinding to provide clearance as well. The Gt500’s need the top surface machined “pads” ground off and smoothed to fit inside 17 inch wheels. The S550 calipers (4 pistons only, the 6 piston ones i havent had the $$$ to buy and verify yet) require a bezel to be ground on the upper bolt tang to clear the upper caliper bracket bolt head.
  2. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Could everyone who was interested in the Gt500 or S550 brake caliper brackets post up with which version they were interested in. I got the S550 caliper brackets refined (they are slightly different from the GT500) and am waiting on the first proof set to arrive to verify fitment with a metal set. The machinist is wanting to know how many potential sets of each so he can determine materials and a pricing schedule.
  3. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Small change in plans on how im going to do the CAI tube. Instead of molding the printed elbow to make up a CF elbow and bonding it to some CF tube i already have, i have changed the shape of the entire CAI tubing to eliminate the CF tube i have. What im decided to do is 3D print the entire cold air intake and then just skin it in CF. The more i thought of it, the more i didnt want to invest the time and $$$ into a mold for a single part. I also was second guessing on how well a CF cold side plumbing would last to boost. At low boost levels, it would likely be fine at a 3/32-1/8” wall thickness, but at higher levels if i ever build the bottom end... who knows. So i’ll likely go to a conventional steel/aluminum cold side when the time comes. So i drew up a oval TB to 3 1/2” round adapter that also takes into account the 2” offset from the centerline if the car and the centerline of the throttle body. It then goes into the 95* elbow, straight down the car, then the maf sensor and filter goes directly under the header panel. Unfortunately i dropped my maf sensor, so now is the time to decide if im going to just go with a stock replacement or convert over to a slot style. original idea: i didnt like how the tb tube and elbow were angled with this setup: Version 2 with the oval TB to round tube piece that accounts for the 2” offset: Intake elbow and aligning with the future hood Notch: air filter location:
  4. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    I didnt like the look and fit of the 90* silicone coupler and had concerns on being able to fit a T bolt clamp as well, ao i elected to go with something different. I drew up a 105* elbow to better work with the dimension i needed and 3D printed it with a pair of sleeves to slip into the current CF cai pipes: then mocked it all in place: with that done, once it warms up i’ll do some body work to smooth it all out and them mold the elbow, then make one in carbon fiber. I also took a little time the other day to makeup the vacuum block mount: then i installed the vacuum block under the intake using one of the knock sensor bolt holes. I also heated and reformed the factory plastic vacuum linea and hooked up all of the vacuum lines for the fuel rail sensor, hvac box and boost gauge. I picked up a flexible stainless steel universal radiator hose off ebay a few weeks back. It was only $20 ans looked better than one of the universal rubber radiator hoses, so i figure what the hell and picked one up. I installed that as well while i was rolling around under the car installing the exhaust: The only items left for the engine/drivetrain install is the Cai, driveshaft shortening, upper radiator hoses and the maf/iat wiring extension.
  5. ThomasW

    Project White95

    And in the process of getting all that other stuff done, find the right deals and boost it from the beginning. Lol
  6. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    drew up the hood liner where i need to notch it for the front mount CAI, notched it slightly oversize for the silicone connector, then took that drawing to make up a mold and cut template that can be 3D printed on my large printer. Once the couplers arrive and i verify fit in the 3D printed parts (im printing one of them right now) i’ll notch the hood and prep the 3D printed mold for a part layup that’ll be done with the remainder of the composite stuff i have to finish for other people:
  7. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    So this talk of a front mount CAI got me thinking. Its actually very possible and will only need the notch of the inner liner of the hood and no mods to the header panel or core support. Im pretty certain this will be how i go, its just to unique (ive never seen it on a mustang) to not. I can also makup a CF panel to fill in the notch on the hood to eliminate the need to body fill and repaint it (or i may just paint it anyways. Lol Anyways, here’s some photos, let me know what you guys think. Btw, the 45* coupler would be replaced by a 90* one. Or if i get feeling really ambitious (doubtful) i’d 3D print a curve piece and make one out of CF.
  8. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Now that upgrade training at work is completed, i can get back to doing some fun stuff. Until i get the heater for the garage though, im limited on what im willing to do, so i only spend a few hours down there at a time at most. Anyways, i figured i would get some partially completely tasks done. First up was getting the the AN hydroboost lines hooked up to the power steering pump. Since Ford power steering pumps are kind of hit or miss on reliability, i elected to make an hose barb to AN adapter for the inlet so its easier to replace the pump if/when needed: I also got the fuel line made up. I used a 5/16” quick connect to 6am adapter (its labeled as a chevy LS part) to convert the factor steel line to AN. I also found a 6AN female/male adapter that had a 1/8” NPT port in the middle for a fuel pressure gauge, i bought that and installed the autometer electric Fuel pressure sending unit in that. The fuel rail adapter is a aeromotive part (1/2” i think) hopefully it doesnt leak, ive seen some reports of them not sealing properly... if it doesnt, i’ll just pull the fuel rail and have a place weld a steel 6AN male adapter to the factory rail. I also finished the heater core hose adapter setup that mounts the factory water temp sender under the intake and converts it over to 12AN to adapt to the MMR coolant crossover AN conversion adapter plates: Then i decided to start making decisions on how to do the upper radiator hoses. currently i have the MMR 1 1/2” barb to dual -12AN Y block with the radiator fill cap on it and a Moroso inline thermostat housing. It works, but its kind of ugly. Originally, i had planned to get the On3 coolant crossover delete for a 4V and use their thermostat housing, but they wont answer emails about buying the housing separately and i would still have to put a radiator fill cap someplace. Those things with 12AN male fittings run $90-150, so not exactly the cheapest option. The on3 thermostat housing would likely be in the way of the CAI and future turbo plumbing anyways, so i have essentially ruled that out. The third option, was to buy a 96-04 3 core v6 aluminum radiator, but those are proving nearly impossible to find and the price is still pretty steep. Option 4 is basically the same as above, except a 94-95 v8 radiator with 12an bungs welded on. Easier to find, but the mounts are different and still not cheap. Option 5, which is likely what i’ll use.. Keep the current setup, get both the Y block and thermostat housing parts anodized black and purchase some 3ply Silicon parts to make up the upper radiator hose. Then i’ll make up some sort of bracket to hold it in place above the cooling fan and the eventual CF core support cover im planning on will be extra wide along the top to cover all of the radiator hose. Here’s a photo showing a mock up: i also picked up a Lokar midnight series flexible dipstick. It fits horrible as delivered in the “correct length”. The braided AN tube was 5” to long and there was no way it would ever fit into the engine block following the factork dipstick tube routing without shortening it and/or disassembling it and putting the engine block piece in first... but, it works after shortening and doesnt stand out like the yellow handle. LoL. Its a good thing the fuse box is out of the way. I also picked up the Redline Tuning quicklift Plus hood struts and installed those. No pictures on that yet though.
  9. ThomasW

    Project White95

    Im curious if those rear MM shock mounts are worth it on a IRS setup...
  10. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    They are 14” rotors
  11. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Sounds good! I’m expecting them to be similarly prices as the other guys kit, but im also planning to have these anodized in black to prevent corrosion. The big question is, do you guy want the drillbit/tap needed for the spindle mods included or available as an “option”. Drill bit and tap is basically $75 extra as an option.
  12. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    The prototype Brake Brackets arrived today. 2 small changes and they are good to go. So i started installing those and got the driver side done. Also got the throttle body and accel ignition coils cleaned and painted. The clutch cable was also wrappes in techflex so it woukd blend in: The radiator brackets were painted with wrinkle black and the radiator installed. Yes i plan to clean and paint the radiator fan as well. Here is a view down the engine valley showing the engine coolant temp sensor T’d into one of the heater core lines instead of it being in the Radiator hose Y block. Im still waiting on some -12AN fittings to arrive so i can finish the plumbing of this.
  13. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Got the TPS wires extended and then used some vulcanizing tape to attach some christmas tree tabs onto the main connector bundle along the firewall. Now once i figure out how to get the IAC mounted nicely i can do the last wire.
  14. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Finished up a some more of the wire tuck. I need to lengthen the TPS wiring, but its essentially done:
  15. ThomasW

    ThomasW's Two into One build

    Well i got the engine and trans installed today. I’ll finish up the wire tuck with it all in the car since it’ll help keep things organized as an installation package. my machinist buddy also sent me a photo of one of my brake brackets in “process” of getting machined. I am really excited to get these since they are the last item needed for the brakes.