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      Current Theme Change   08/01/2017

      With the new update to 4.2 we have gained a lot of new features.  I will post more about those later.  With the change though came some problems with our current themes as the creator of those themes has not made the changes that allow us to take advantage of some of the new features.   I will try to clean up the default theme to make it more appealing for the time being. 

ReplicaR

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ReplicaR last won the day on August 5

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42 On a distinguished road

About ReplicaR

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    Member
  • Birthday 06/17/1983

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  • Member No
    00036

My SN95

  • Year
    1994
  • Model
    GT
  • Car
    1994 Mustang GT
  1. Got the parts necessary for the conversion of power steering pump. The mockup will be done next week. Just the pump and pulley are necessary for now. If I can get those working, the lines and reservoir should be a breeze.
  2. The Madd Motorsports POS

    You should try using your arms then. Trollololololol
  3. The whole idea of hydrooboost is a decent one, especially because it's a factory setup, but you may want to just look into a vacuum pump instead. For me it wasn't an option, since a vacuum pump won't be able to keep up with high demand of road racing, but for a street car, it should be more than sufficient. Something else to keep in mind is that hydroboost is an afterthought. Even Ford admitted that once they went to S197 chassis, and they had enough room to mount the vacuum assisted brake setup. It doesn't have the feel of vacuum brakes (much better ability to read what's happening with brakes), there is some cross chatter if you're trying turn and brake at the same time. If I could have made the vacuum brakes work well, I would have kept them.
  4. In development land, refactoring is something we call when an issue has been discovered, and it requires rethinking the approach and reworking the code. The next step of Mustang project is pretty much refactoring. I’ve been rethinking about why I can’t really harness the speed as well as I would like, and I’ve put together a comprehensive list of what will be tackled. 1. Front end geometry: When the engine was built, I decided to shift it back on k-member 1 inch backward for better weight distribution. One thing that I discovered is that when you do that, the front sump of the oil pan gets in the way of the steering rack, and the rack has to be shifted down to clear it, which in turn requires to adjust for bumpsteer. Doesn’t seem like a big issue until you realize that even when you max out the bumpsteer adjustment, you are still nowhere near where it should be. To remedy this, I had the engine moved back to original position, set the rack back to the center on the adjustable bushings, and dialed in the bumpsteer with the gauge to almost no change at all (as close as it would get to 0 toe change). 2. Hydroboost: As some may know, I’ve converted my car to hydroboost in order to be able to utilize the brakes to their maximum potential. The conversion consisted of hydroboost unit with master cylinder and pedal box from 96-04 V8 powered car to line up the pushpin with the pedal. I decided to power the unit with the stock 94 power steering pump. The issue is, that the pedal doesn’t feel anything like you would find in a normal OEM application. The travel is short, the pressure is really hard, feels like stepping on a rubber ball. I’ve had a chance to drive a 96 GT, which has a full factory hydrboost system, and I’ve realized that the pedal feel is completely wrong on my car. Since the power steering pump is the only piece that still hasn’t been converted, I assume this is what I need to fix. I have to keep a couple of things in consideration, such as size of power steering pulley and crank pulley to make sure that I don’t over-drive or under-drive the pump, and mounting it will be a separate challenge all together, since they are completely different mounting styles. 3. Oil rings: The motor is consuming oil like crazy. Having eliminated everything else, looks like oil rings are not doing their job well. I can see it smoking oil out of the tailpipe, and level goes down pretty quickly. Looks like Wild Pony Motorsports strikes again. Absolutely everything that shop touched about this motor is total shit. I’ve asked for a quote regarding how much it would cost to fix the issue, still waiting on the current shop to get back to me on that. More updates to come soon hopefully.
  5. I bought my Brembo of a racer, who went to something different. Ended up costing me 550 dollars, plus some shipping, but came with two sets of rotors, and a set of track pads (PFC-01, pretty expensive). I just had to clean up the finish a little when I got it. I really like the setup, and feel as if braking at triple digits is better over the Cobra kit I've had before that. The most difficult part is pushing the pistons back inside when you are doing a pad swap. It's kinda annoying, but not something that's a deal breaker by any means. It would be very simple with a tool, but I just use an old pad and a pry bar, works just as well. One of the biggest benefits of the Brembo kit over the PBR Cobra or C5 caliper, is that the pad goes down all the way to the hub, and therefore increases sweep area. And having 4 pistons is nice too.
  6. That's actually a lower intake manifold from an Edelbrock Performer, that's been polished up a bit. But yeah, the car should have a good deal of top end power.
  7. More pictures with more stuff. Here is the old engine. Goodbye old friend, you've served me well. Now, something seems to be missing here. Where did I put this thing? Oh yeah, here it is Close up shot of the valve train. As of right now, the build is slightly behind schedule. The plan is to have the motor in the car on friday, and finally fire it up monday. Tuned and delivered should be end of next week.
  8. Lowered the Cobra this weekend!!

    Personally, I don't like urethane isolators. I don't buy into the whole "will last forever, better for performance" hype. I've had both, and I can tell from experience that urethane isolators are harder to work with, since they are less flexible, and they are also squeaky, where as stock isolators were silent. Last forever? Perhaps. But so will stockers. Mine were just fine, and they had 150k miles on them. Better for performance? Unlikely. Once stock rubber is compressed under weight of the car and pressure of the spring, there is no give there. At that point it is as good as solid. Urethane will do the same. Will it be better in any way? I don't think so. My suggestion. Save the money, reuse stock isolators if they look ok, or purchase OEM replacement. Don't bother with urethane.
  9. Project: e85 Torpedo

    I'd still think about cutting that rear piece out though. It's not in the way like it is on my car or on the 03-04 Cobras where it curls under the car towards the front, but it's still blocking the air.
  10. Yeah, I've had a 4th gen LT1. Working on that car was a bit difficult. Optispark went out the second day I've had the car.
  11. It's an complete cast iron engine that sits well in front of the front wheels. Packaging on these cars is not the greatest in the world, that's for sure.
  12. Project: e85 Torpedo

    I'm not so sure that diffuser is very functional. If you look at most of the race cars, diffuser is usually the last thing you would see on the car from the back, most of the time extending past the rear bumper. The reason for that is that it has to direct all the air from under the car, so that it does not go anywhere else other than outside through the back. This creates faster moving air under it, and generates downforce. The problem I see with your setup is that you do not expose the diffuser enough. Now, lets say you keep the blades, but create a fiberglass sheet that covers seals the entire underside of the rear. I'm talking about starting in front of the fuel tank, and up into fender wells, and taking it back and connecting to the rear of the bumper. Make sure that the entire area is sealed in. Then I would get rid of this part of the bumper all together, just to allow the air to escape. I think that just getting rid of that alone will actually make the diffuser work much better. You have ground effects, which make covering the fuel tank with flat sheet a LOT easier. EDIT: Just for reference, here is DBR9
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