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Lanter

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Lanter last won the day on July 14

Lanter had the most liked content!

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501 Is a glorious beacon of light

About Lanter

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/17/1989

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  • Facebook
    https://www.facebook.com/kevin.lanter.90
  • Instagram
    https://www.instagram.com/kevin.lanter/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greensburg, IN
  • Interests
    Cars, guns, cars, and did I say cars

Additional Info

  • Real Name
    Kevin

My SN95

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

    Picked up a set of 16" standard gt wheels and some hoosier QTP's. Hopefully I can get a chance to try them out tomorrow with the 2step and cut my 60 times down to at least a sub 2 second range lol. Untitled by Kevin Lanter, on Flickr
  2. Project White95

    Coming right along!. Really love the wheels
  3. Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

    Recently installed a n2mb WOT box so have been playing around with it. Have to relearn how to drive the car as I use to always rest my foot on the clutch pedal which now trips the box into thinking I am going to shift, the clutch switch in these cars are really sensitive lol. Anyway the 2 step needs some work as it's flooding the car if I hold it too long but I have read upping engine speed can remedy that so I need to give that a try as I was just testing it out at 3000 rpm when I had the flooding issues. The no lift shift feature is awesome and damn close to what I would consider a must have for a turbo car. In the video below I am shifting around 5k just testing but even short shifting it's a vast difference. You can see in my 2-3 shift boost barely drops, I fully expect it to not drop at all when I shift at 6500 instead of 5000. Apologize for the crappy video and not turning my iPhone sideways but driving and shifting one handed proved to be a challenge lol... really need to get a go pro
  4. Wing turned out great!
  5. The never ending 2v turbo build

    Tape, tape, and more tape lol. Excited to see this finally come together!
  6. As the saying goes, "there's more than one way to skin a cat", this is my way to wire up exports. I went this route to minimize the wiring changes made to the actual body harness of my car and concentrate almost all modifications to the tail light harnesses. I ended up using my factory tail light harnesses with an added bulb that I pulled out of a junk yard harness. Below is my crude wiring diagram I used, wire color in the diagram are arbitrary and do not reflect actual harness color. So step 1 was to remove the tail lights and pull the harnesses off. I then added one two wire bulb that will become the turn signal bulb. I simply spliced into the ground wire located on the tail light bulb above it then ran the signal wire down the harness and to the factory plug. Step 2 was to remove the brake light pin (happens to on a '98 be the only pin with two wires going into it). I then removed the pin from the two wires with a pick after a lot of stuck fingers and patience. Step 3 was to run the signal wire from the newly added turn signal bulb to the pin that use to contain the brake light wires, I re-crimped the pin onto the turn signal bulb signal wire and re-installed that pin into the factory 4 pin plug. Step 4 involved adding a single weather proof plug that will now supply the brake lights with their signal from the third brake light. I purchased two single 14 gauge weather pack connectors from McMaster Carr. So I now moved the two brake light wires that were originally going to the factory 4 pin plug and crimped them into the new single pin plug. Step 5 was adding the brake light signal wire. This involved tapping into the third brake light, in my case the wire is located in a plug that goes to the trunk harness and is red in color. I then ran the tapped wire to the tail lights and plugged it into the added single pin weather pack plug. Step 6 you need to de-pin or cut the brake light signal wire located at the main distribution block behind the driver's kick panel. Photos of where this block is located and what wire to cut can be found here: http://www.chythar.net/mustang/mustang_94-95_export_taillight_installation.html (this link actually provides a great refrence for where items are located and how to dissassemble interior panels.) Step 7 just involves replacing the factory flasher with a Tridon EP-27 "trailering" electronic flasher. Reason here is the flasher works by operating with a known resistance across the turn signal bulbs, when one bulb goes bad the resistance changes since current can no longer flow across that bulb. When this happens the flasher speeds up to alert the driver a bulb is bad. Well in the factory case there are two turn signal bulbs in the tail lights, with the exports there is only a single bulb. So the factory flasher is operating under the same conditions as a factory car with one bad turn signal bulb, hence the fast flashing turn signal. Replacing with the trailering flasher which is made to operate under a different resistance valve slows the flasher back down since it is for a single tail light turn signal bulb. It was late and dark out so I didn't take any pictures of the harnesses but if people are interested I can take some this weekend when it's light out. Results:
  7. Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

    This race was in the works for some time now, there's so many people I'd like to thank for my victory haha. Will do, and I'll add more pictures to it when I get a chance to take some.
  8. Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

    Thanks! Certainly one of my favorite additions to the car
  9. Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

    @White95 Exports are wired, I repeat exports are wired lol. After a couple of years I finally broke down and tackled the wiring. I ended up using my factory tail light harnesses with an added bulb that I pulled out of a junk yard harness. Goal was to not modify the interior body harness or plug at all, except to tap into the third brake light, so all my modifications were done to the actual tail light harness. Below is my crude wiring diagram I used, wire color in the diagram are arbitrary and do not reflect actual harness color. So step 1 was to remove the tail lights and pull the harnesses off. I then added one two wire bulb that will become the turn signal bulb. I simply spliced into the ground wire located on the tail light bulb above it then ran the signal wire down the harness and to the factory plug. Step 2 was to remove the brake light pin (happens to on a '98 be the only pin with two wires going into it). I then removed the pin from the two wires with a pick after a lot of stuck fingers and patience. Step 3 was to run the signal wire from the newly added turn signal bulb to the pin that use to contain the brake light wires, I re-crimped the pin onto the turn signal bulb signal wire and re-installed that pin into the factory 4 pin plug. Step 4 involved adding a single weather proof plug that will now supply the brake lights with their signal from the third brake light. I purchased two single 14 gauge weather pack connectors from McMaster Carr. So I now moved the two brake light wires that were originally going to the factory 4 pin plug and crimped them into the new single pin plug. Step 5 was adding the brake light signal wire. This involved tapping into the third brake light, in my case the wire is located in a plug that goes to the trunk harness and is red in color. I then ran the tapped wire to the tail lights and plugged it into the added single pin weather pack plug. Step 6 you need to de-pin or cut the brake light signal wire located at the main distribution block behind the driver's kick panel. Photos of where this block is located and what wire to cut can be found here: http://www.chythar.net/mustang/mustang_94-95_export_taillight_installation.html It's worth noting that if you take your time and dissasseble the distribustion block ever so slightly you can pull the wire and pin out of the block instead of cutting it. Step 7 just involves replacing the factory flasher with a Tridon EP-27 "trailering" electronic flasher. Reason here is the flasher works by operating with a known resistance across the turn signal bulbs, when one bulb goes bad the resistance changes since current can no longer flow across that bulb. When this happens the flasher speeds up to alert the driver a bulb is bad. Well in the factory case there are two turn signal bulbs in the tail lights, with the exports there is only a single bulb. So the factory flasher is operating under the same conditions as a factory car with one bad turn signal bulb, hence the fast flashing turn signal. Replacing with the trailering flasher which is made to operate under a different resistance valve slows the flasher back down since it is for a single tail light turn signal bulb. It was late and dark out so I didn't take any pictures of the harnesses but if people are interested I can take some this weekend when it's light out. Results:
  10. Finally got around to washing it, got caught in a wicked rain storm on my way home from the track last Friday so it was filthy. Car really needs a set of bias plys on the rear and some FTBR goodness to ease my mind on launching it. But even leaving off an idle and cutting a 2.5+ 60' it was still able to trap 132 in the 1/4 which I am happy with. Hopefully this fall I can get a good softwall slick on the back and launch it to really see what it has in it.
  11. Whats In Your Arsenal

    Picked up a new full sized handgun, FN FNX-45 Tactical. Still waiting to really shoot the thing and also pick out a nice RMR to run on it to compliment my LWRCi AR.
  12. TTSaleen's project car thread

    I can't stop drooling over the Bogarts!!! lol. Everything looks fantastic as always!
  13. Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

    Awesome, I appreciate it!
  14. Tabres' Turbo Cobra - Winter Shenanigans

    I can't believe how high you can get the car in a garage with only 10' ceilings. I couldn't be more jealous!!
  15. Springfield XDS 9mm

    I really like the Khar, it has a long somewhat heavy trigger pull but very consistent and predictable. Now the guns clearly a carry gun but still fun to shoot, and I just mean it's such a short barrel small gun that it can be tough to hit long distance targets. But that's no surprise. lol. I do like the fit and finish of it though and it seems to be a good quality gun even with the lower price tag.
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