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Steve-Oh

Eons for eons....

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Thanks again fellas! Shit should start to move along again with her. The weather here started to warm up a little so we were able to get my dad's car fixed and moving again so we pulled that off the lift and transfered mine over to the other side. We're gonna swap my dad's car to "my" side once we clean up some things and that way I have the freedom to move it up and down as needed. The quad and the winch I bought for it made easy work of this job. Just rolled it out of one side and winched it up the other, Baboom! So I should have more updates as the weeks roll along.

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Still so awesome that you guys have a lift in your garage. Eternally envious! We could totally have one if we didnt store so much shit in our attic. Dammit parents haha

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Still so awesome that you guys have a lift in your garage. Eternally envious! We could totally have one if we didnt store so much shit in our attic. Dammit parents haha

Likewise, which is why we had a huge "cleaning" session. We threw out a lot lol.

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I found out that it is not required to modify the headers. You need to change over the bell housing to a fox bell and change the t-5 input shaft to the shorter one. Although it is not the route I took it is an option for long tubes.

Sent from Space

Can't believe I missed this. I keep forgetting to subscribe to threads.

So if I switch to a Fox bellhousing (the T56 in my 66 GT is a Fox bellhousing and I planned on swapping it to the 95 when the motor is built)... I can use Fox 351 headers???

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Can't believe I missed this. I keep forgetting to subscribe to threads.

So if I switch to a Fox bellhousing (the T56 in my 66 GT is a Fox bellhousing and I planned on swapping it to the 95 when the motor is built)... I can use Fox 351 headers???

Yup!! Basically what I've been told is that the fox bell is shorter by about 3/4" which changes the size of the input shaft on the trans which then makes the driveshaft longer. Most companies only make 351 swap long tube headers for fox bodies so you have to change things around on the '94-'95 cars to get them to fit.

In my case though I just went with shorties for now because I got two different sets of long tubes from BBK and both had very poor fitment where the holes for the flange didn't line up with the heads. Until I get the extra money for good long tubes I'll just settle for these for now.

In other news I got a chance last saturday to get the transmission, driveshaft and attempted to put the mid-pipe on. Also last night I was able to get the old fuel rails off and get the AN adapters onto the factory hard lines. Got myself confused with the layout of the Aeromotive setup but I think I have it sorted now. Had to order new spring fittings and send back extra AN adapters.

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Well I finally got to mocking up the top end. Found out that the intake tube will hit the oil filler neck so I swapped the valve covers between sides for now to avoid collision. Also realized that I can't get away from using a spacer between the upper and lower so that was ordered along with some black wire loom to replace some of the old ratty looking shit that's under there. Got the braided lines DONE! Not really crazy about where I mounted the fuel pressure regulator but it'll work for now. When I first ran the hoop up front it was just a smudge too long and hit the upper coolant hose so the picture below has been since corrected. ALSO I don't know why but I felt the need to make an air filter adapter for the MAF sensor so I sat here for a couple hours drawing and measuring away. When I was done I thought to myself "WHY?!" and proceeded to order one from JLT. BUT nothing is lost because I did draw up an EGR delete plate (how exciting!) and I'm gonna have one of the guys I used to work with burn it out for me. Other than that I need to wait for the spacer to mount the upper, do a few more misc things, run some new vacuum hoses, fill it with oil and hopefully this thing runs! Theoretically this thing will be done in two weeks BUT we all know how I operate and realistically this will take another couple months lol.

:kev:

Now for some PICS!!!

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You can see here how it just wouldn't of worked.

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The elbow touching the rails, hence the necessary spacer.

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This is the one I put on the FB page. You can see I swapped the valve covers and the intake tube fits now.

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Here's my awesome filter adapter drawings!

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...and EGR delete plate.

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yessss love seeing updates =] haha anwyays that braided line turned out awesome! Did you just do it from the firewall up to the rails or is it all the way from the tank? Looks awesome with the loop around the dizzy! Can't wait to hear videos of this bad boy run

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yessss love seeing updates =] haha anwyays that braided line turned out awesome! Did you just do it from the firewall up to the rails or is it all the way from the tank? Looks awesome with the loop around the dizzy! Can't wait to hear videos of this bad boy run

Thanks Bryan!! Just from the fire wall to the back of the rails. If I ever end up running forced air I'll def upgrade from the firewall back. I'm still not entirely crazy about the dizzy loop but it'll work for now, not to complicated to chance it up later if I ever feel the desire to! When this thing starts, you'll see about a 100 videos lol. Thought about hiring a film crew to capture the moment. Spielberg will direct.

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I don't like where the FPR is either... Seems like on the inside of the strut tower, its awfully close to the header, or maybe it was just the angle of the picture.

Yeah it's kindof a bad angle. It's def way far enough away from the header. Now if I ever need to take the headers out anytime soon, it will pose a problem. I originally wanted to mount it on the inside part of the strut tower but I didn't have the proper fittings to make it work correctly and I didn't want to bend the return line (which comes out the bottom) in all sorts of weird ways so I ditched that and mounted it here. It's something to put on the "punch list" for later.

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Haven't really had a chance to update anything yet but I have an idea on how I want to run my heater hose and the sensor. I bought a couple fittings from O'Reily's website and am gonna modify them to accept the sensor. The manifold was not the same thread (1/2" npt) than the old heater tubes so it started to strip out the lower manifold. Caught it in time and was able to salvage 75% of the threads. Also got the intake spacer which fits great and nothing hits now. The one thing I forgot to do which I need to order now is a new gear for my distributor. Also still need to order the adapter for the MAF sensor as well. The lady is at work today so I pretty much have nothing better to do than sit here and order car parts :gangmanstyle:

I was given an ultimatum by my father that it needs to be done by March 31st and since it's in their garage I'm kind of at their mercy. He needs to pull the motor in his car, unfortunately, so obviously needs to use the lift side of the garage.

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Pics! Better get to working bub. You gotta clear time to do my corneer lights ;)

I'll def get more when I get back home. One day I know I'm gonna see a UPS box on my porch containing corner lights lol!

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I'll def get more when I get back home. One day I know I'm gonna see a UPS box on my porch containing corner lights lol!

Hahah you just very well might

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I got a few little goodies in the mail while I was away. Finally got my 6pin-4pin adapter, been sitting on this purchase for awhile. I also ordered some heater hose fittings. Now I think I mentioned earlier that my original heater hose tube setup didn't fit, so I hacked it up and tried again. I went to thread it on and it strip the intake a few threads. So I bought the correct sized fittings to fit. Now I can go one of two ways. 1.) I bought just a straight fitting to attach a hose to then go to a "t-fitting" to then goto the core and then just a heater hose back. I would cut the perpendicular fitting and weld on the threaded "bung" for the temp sensor there. 2.) I have a threaded 90* fitting that I could just weld the "bung" on the back side of the fitting for the temp sensor and eliminate the t-fitting all together. Only problem is I don't think the 90* fitting is going to thread on because the 90 part will most likely hit the intake runner.

I feel like I'm going way over board for a temp sensor but since I don't really want to delete it as I don't know the after effects. Since I have access to a TIG (I think) this is a pretty simple fabrication. Here are the fittings I'm talking about.

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and my awesome adapter!

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Adapter looks much cleaner than the one with the wires! As for the heater hose, what exactly aee you replacing?

This non-sense. I tried to thread this onto the Edlebrok lower manifold and it started to strip. Not to mention it didn't fit very well alongside the injectors.

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This non-sense. I tried to thread this onto the Edlebrok lower manifold and it started to strip. Not to mention it didn't fit very well alongside the injectors.

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Ooooooo okay. Lemme re read your plan of action is there a spot on your water neck you could put the temp sensor?

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You should use a tap to clean the threads on the lower intake out, then use a die to clean the threads on the coolant tube and try again bro

As for the clearance issues, it can work:

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Thanks whitey! I just remember taking it off the old manifold and it being a real pain. Completely destroyed the old manifold threads so I do remember cleaning the coolant tube threads last summer. I'll take your advice and try again, hopefully with better results.

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Ooooooo okay. Lemme re read your plan of action is there a spot on your water neck you could put the temp sensor?

From what I remember no. I'd have to look again. I just brought the car back down to ground a few minutes ago and will be working on it a lot next week.

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quick question, are the fox heater rails the same as a SN's? not trying to derail

They look similar but are different. In fact that is what Bryan is referring to above. The sn tubes run next to each other with the coolant temp sensor in the part that threads into the manifold. The fox tubes run on top of each other with the temp sensor on the actual tube about 2" away from the threaded part.

Sent from Space

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Stupid update but one never the less. The factory coolant tube 100% does not fit. Re-tapped and chased all the threads then threaded the tube on and it runs right into the injector. Whitey, after looking at you manifold and comparing it to mine it looks like the hole for your coolant tube is further left than mine. Seems like Edelbrock just keeps the hole in the same spot for both 302 and 351 manifolds (just a hunch). Anywho this is where I'm at as of today. Chopped up the spare tubes my buddy gave me and the fitting I bought. Going to have a guy TIG weld it up tomorrow.

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Oh and I got my EGR block off plate from my old work! Hurray! :cheer2:

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Hahahahahahaha nice work!

Well since I'm in here I might as well update.

She's pretty much ready to roll! She needs fluids and a bent up dipstick tube which I decided to put off until the very last second. Oh and I need to connect the chassis to motor mount ground lol. anywho this is how she stands...

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Oh and the hood doesn't close

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