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95riosnake

The Chronicles of 95riosnake's OCD Machine

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I figured it was time I start keeping track of this car's metamorphosis as I do things, rather than letting the build pics pile up like I have the past few years. I figure I'll probably edit this post from time to time and try to include some of the earlier projects as I have time to get around to doing so.

 

EDIT 5/24/14 Added table of contents below to help you navigate this massive thread lol. See below, click on page numbers.

 

Procharger/IRS Swap: page 1

 

Spare Tire Sub Enclosure

Enclosure/Trunk Floor Fabrication: pages 3 4 5 6 7 11 12

 

Audio

Rear Components: page 8

Kick Panels: pages 9 10

Battery Relocation: pages 1 49 56

 

Interior

Console Gauges: page 12 15

Cutout Switch: 15

98 Console: pages 17 24

Carbon fiber/double din: pages 20 21 51

 

Air Ride

Introduction of Ridetech Kit: page 17

Air Tank Mount: pages 21 22 23

Compressor Mount: pages 30 31 32 35 58

E3 Management Install: page 71

 

Exhaust

Cutouts: pages 11 14

Fabbing Side Pipes: pages 28 29 38 40 44 53

Hangers: pages 40 41 42

 

Chassis

Stifflers FIT system: pages 44 46 48

 

Brakes

Wilwood 6 piston W6A/14" Front Brakes: pages 38 50

Wilwood 4 piston SL4/13" Rear Brakes: Pages 67 69

Rear Brakes First Version: page 29

 

 

Build log - Winter 2011/2012:

I was pretty happy with the car (actually I was ecstatic) after getting a feature shoot for 5.0 Magazine at the NMRA event in Columbus in Sept. 2011, but it was time to step things up. Right before leaving for Columbus I pulled the trigger on a used Procharger D1SC on Corral. It was a satin unit, and came with some very rough looking piping, cast 3 core intercooler, and the blower bracket...nothing else. The missing parts and crappy piping didn't bother me, I was planning to make my own piping anyway because my radiator setup wasn't going to let the Procharger piping fit anyway. So here's what showed up at my door:

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But alas, it was prime driving season still...so I forced myself to resist the urge to rip the car apart and instead the blower found its way to the shelf until the snow flew.

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In the meantime I sent the head unit to Mirror Finish Polishing to spruce it up, and started looking for an upgraded Procharger sheet metal intercooler.

Once the weather turned colder and the insurance was off the car for winter, I started tearing into it.

Front bumper cover and bumper support out of the way

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The power steering cooler had to go

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Picked up a Derale power steering cooler and some AN fittings (which I later swapped after learning I needed to use teflon-lined braided hoses for the pressure levels of power steering)

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Power steering bracket, PS pump and AC compressor out of the way.

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No pics of the process, but I also relocated the fuse box to right behind the driver's headlight, which required a couple days of boring work lengthening wires and separating the harness. I modded the fuse box's factory bracket and paired it with a bracket I made to mount it to the fender skirt. Also ditched the windshield washer reservoir. Finished product:

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The AC condenser was just not going to fit with the way I wanted to mount the intercooler, so the whole AC system came out. I had used it maybe 3 or 4 times since I bought the car in 03, so I won't miss it, or its ugly hard lines that run in the way of everything in the engine bay. All that crap out:

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Next, the radiator core support needed some TLC. It had a bit of surface rust and just wasn't up to my standards.

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Radiator back in

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In the meantime I had found a great deal on a Procharger sheet metal intercooler, so I started mocking it up in place. I've seen people mount them low, but because of my lowness, I wanted the whole thing up above the bottom edge of the core support. Mocked in place sitting on jack stands:

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A little clearance issue to deal with here:

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Marking and modifying the bumper support. I chose to cut only the bottom and back side, leaving the front intact. The air all comes in from the bumper cover opening beneath, so cutting the front wouldn't offer much benefit.

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Back when I was removing the windshield washer reservoir, I had noticed the quite sad condition of the horns and their bracket... nothing this rusty has any place on my car, lol.

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Bracket stripped and repainted, with new PIAA Dual Tone horns:

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I smoothed the blower bracket and had it chrome powder coated, and the blower came back from Mirror finish polishing so those went on.

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Made a bracket to mount the coil nicely, rather than just bolting it sideways on the bracket like Procharger suggests:

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One issue the 94-95 Procharger kits suffer from is the power steering reservoir "puking" from time to time. This is due to the way the blower bracket tilts it inboard. So my solution was to cut the top of the reservoir off and add a 45 degree silicone coupler to level the top of the reservoir (it has worked perfectly btw). I also sanded and painted the whole power steering pump silver with a clear coat while it was off the car.

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With some of the stuff in place under the hood, I turned my attention back to the intercooler. Made a bottom mount for it, as well as notched the bumper support bracket by cutting a 4" diameter notch out of it, then welded in a piece of 4" dia. steel piping. Then repainted the whole core support again, lol.

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Then fabbed up an upper mount that bolts to the hood latch bracket

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The 3.35 pulley showed up from Procharger so that went on, then I needed to measure for belt length. Enjoy my patriotic method for measuring using a cheap spool of ribbon from walmart, lol. I can't remember why I had the upper intake off at this point though :dunno:

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Edited by 95riosnake
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Next it was time to start fabbing the boost/intercooler piping. I chose to mount the Race Mart 50mm BOV font and center above the radiator (because why not, lol), and the plan was to modify the Anderson NA Power Pipe I already had modified for the Fox TB swap so it would tie right in. I bought a used piping kit from a new edge Procharger kit for parts. The plan was to cut up all the piping I had to get the bends I needed. This ended up being a MUCH cheaper alternative to buying all new bends, I only paid like $100 for the used piping kit. Another advantage is it gave me plenty of piping with bead-rolled ends so the couplers wouldn't blow off under boost. Mocked things up with crappy rubber elbows I had laying around, they were later replaced with silicone.

The primary reason I had to make my own piping was that the way Procharger routed it just wouldn't work with my radiator setup. It's much thicker and closer to the motor and because of the overflow bottle being where it is, the Procharger piping was just a no-go. I wasn't too sad though, because I wanted to make everything nicer and more solid than what they did anyway.

 

You can see here the clearance is tight. I ended up cutting away a lot of the fan shroud plastic to make room.

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Pipes off the car, next step was to strip the powder coating, then take them to work and tig weld the seams (sorry I can't seem to find the pics of the other 2 pipes before stripping and finish welding :( )

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Piping stripped and finish welded:

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Piping back from the powder coaters:

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Piping FINALLY done and on the car:

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Fabbed up a small aluminum brace for the power pipe that anchors it to the strut tower.

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Next thing I know, I'm dropping the SRA out of the car. This is where the snowball started to grow that winter.

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Then I found an IRS out of a 10k mile 03 cobra to replace that SRA.

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Broke it down into 548998228942894 pieces one night

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Started smoothing the cradle and getting rid of the massive amount of weld splatter it had from the factory. I decided since I'll always have side exhaust, I made a custom web panel to go between the LCA mounting ears, just because ;) Also began all the prep work to the cradle for the upcoming Full Tilt Boogie complete bushing kit, as well as drilling and tapping the control arms for grease fittings.

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Stripped and painted the axles

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Fast forward a bit and I got the cradle and all the other IRS parts back from the powder coaters. I must have not taken a pic of the control arms and such but I smoothed them also, then had them powder coated. The sway bar and any removable brackets, etc. were all repainted as well.

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It took me a few days of on and off work to install all the bushings (TON of work), then an all day/late night carefully reassembling the entire IRS unit. It was well worth it to stand back and look at this beauty though:

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Before installing the IRS, I stripped and repainted the underbody (for the second time since owning the car, lol) in conjunction with dropping the tank to install an Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump, then a set of Ford Racing 42lb injectors under the hood. Smoothed and painted/cleared the tank cover and added some Glenn's Performance stainless tank straps also.

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Also not pictured was swapping the rear driveshaft yoke for a hybrid unit to adapt to the terminator pinion flange, running new brake lines and mounting 99-04 Cobra Russell Stainless brake flex hoses, and mounting the rear IRS brackets by drilling up through the trunk. Here's a picture of the plates in the trunk however.

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Had my dad drive up to my house and lend a hand getting this heavy bastard up in place. Took us almost 8 hours, having to be careful to not mess up the powder coat.

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Added Maximum Motorports rear coil overs on Bilsteins, with 8-550lb Hypercoil springs.

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And at the recommendation of MM, changed my front coil over springs to 10-350lb Hypercoils. You can also see I swapped out my previous Team Z front control arms in favor of Maximum Motorsports MMFCA-7 non-offset control arms.

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Added an 03 Cobra rack and steering shaft, converted the rack with MM's AN adapter fittings and threw in some Energy Suspension Rack bushings.

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The last phase was to spruce up the interior, so in went a pair of Sparco Evo2's Schroth Rallye Cross 4 point harnesses (100% D.O.T. street legal), as well as a custom carbon fiber-wrapped cluster bezel to hold the new AEM wideband and the Autometer C2 boost gauge. The last interior change was a KDezines rear seat delete.

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Had to make adapter brackets to mate the Sparco sliders to the seat brackets, they were for some reason left out of my order from Sparco. I didn't have time to wait for them to send them to me so I just made my own.

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Didn't think to take a picture of the seats or gauges in place because I was in a mad rush getting it together for the appointment at the tuner, but here are a couple more recent pictures showing the interior.

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Next it was off to the dyno where my good friend Tim Rodeheaver of Rodeheaver's Hot Rod would be installing the built Tremec 3550 transmission (with MGW shifter), McLeod RST twin disc clutch and flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, rebuild my side exhaust to be higher, and weld in my new SpinTech subframe connectors. Normally I would have done the transmission, clutch and driveshaft myself, but my previous side exhaust was one solid piece from the long tubes back. This would mean I'd have to take the side skirts off to remove it or take a sawzall to it, neither of which was a tempting option. So while Tim was in there, I had him move the mufflers further up into the driveshaft tunnel and add V-band clamps after them so the side/tail pipes could be easily removed separately in the future. He ran into a small clearance issue with the header primaries and the bell housing, which you'll see in the pictures...nothing a little end mill work couldn't fix. I'm not totally happy with how the side/tail pipes turned out, they still aren't high enough off the ground so I'll be cutting them off soon and making new ones out of stainless oval tubing.

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Then at last, it was time for it to hit the rollers. The first full pull made 556rwhp/614rwtq, which was a bit too much for my comfort with the block the car has, so the timing on the top end was backed down and the car made a nice strong 495rwhp/494rwtq. Here's a dyno video:



I had a couple boost-related issues to sort out before Carlisle but I slapped the HRE's back on the car, buffed and detailed the crap out of it and got it there mostly done. I thoroughly enjoyed the weekend even despite the few loose ends that still needed tied up.



Some completed pics courtesy of Prokiller (Ryan) and 95opal (Rich)

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10/21/12 - GZ Motorsports Vacuum pump:

Tried out some yellow Lamin-X overlays on my fogs, I already have 3000k HID's in them so they should look pretty cool. I wasn't sure if I'd like the yellow fog look but I think I dig it.

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Also yesterday I finished up the GZ Motorsports vacuum pump install. Ever since I put the Procharger on, I'd been having issues with the dipstick blowing out under boost. I tried open breathers but the oil vapor smell was more than I wanted to live with, and after MANY MANY hours researching online I found that it seems no factory-style PCV system seems to work very well on these blown pushrods. So I sucked it up and pulled the trigger on a few parts. Got it started up yesterday, my tune will need a couple tweaks because the pump is messing with the idle slightly but overall it seems to work great.

GZ Motorsports VP102 Sportsman vacuum pump
March Performance 6.5" pulley
Custom machined 0.500" pulley spacer to use the 6 rib march pulley and serpentine belt rather than the GZ setup of a V-belt pulley and separate belt
Allstar Manufacturing breather tank
Aeromotive 33101 vacuum regulator
GZ Motorsports lock-on -10an breather
Earl's -10an fittings
Earl's -10an hoses
Custom fabbed breather tank mount bracket
Lokar Anchor Tight locking distick

Some pics:

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And a couple pics of the pulley spacer needed to push the pulley out where it needs to be.

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12/1/12 - Plug wires that don't suck

Well a couple weeks ago I was pulling a plug wire off a spark plug and the connector pulled out of the boot. I figured since I needed one new wire, might as well do them all. I have always hated how my wires were tight on some cylinders, and had TONS of extra length on others, plus the coil wire was way too short after adjusting the timing. I decided to take the plunge and do what I've been meaning to do for years and ordered a set of Taylor universal DIY plug wires and got to it. It took the majority of the day to make them but I am very happy with the result. They fit perfectly and are nice and neat like they always should have been. The "409" 10.4mm wires also look pretty beast compared to the old 8.5mm's I used to have.

Parts used:

Taylor 409 Pro Race Universal Spark Plug Wire Set p#79253

Made For You Vertical Wire Looms (replace lower valve cover bolts) p# 50-710-13

Taylor Wire Crimping Tool 43400

Pics:

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Coil wire has plenty of slack for timing adjustment
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All buttoned back up:

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Edited by 95riosnake
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Since doing the plug wires I've been selling parts, collecting new ones, and thinking about new projects in my free time. By the time I actually turn a wrench, I have usually thought about it like 10 times at work, while falling asleep, etc. lol. I tend to brainstorm things waaaay too much, lol.

3/2/13 - moving the battery and changes to the trunk begin

I can't seem to find any pictures, but my trunk previously had a Taylor battery relocation on the passenger side and a custom sub box that fit into the driver's side corner of the trunk. Here's a picture of the box I had/have though:

2418159_8.jpg

This was ok, but I got tired of the lack of trunk space, the worn, stained carpet, and my hacked up trunk panels (I cut them to accommodate the CHE rear shock tower brace and my previous Tokico D-Specs - you had to be able to access the top of the shocks to adjust them). Now I have Bilsteins with a MM coil over kit so I no longer need these hacked access points through the panels.

So far I've relocated the battery under the rear seat delete, and I'm planning to make a custom sub box to drop the sub down into the spare tire well. I'm also on the hunt for a pair of mint left and right trunk trim panels currently.

Now I'll go into some more detail with pics:

I have a K-Dezines rear seat delete. If you're not familiar with it, it actually raises the bottom up a few inches, which provides quite a bit more room underneath. Here's a link to their site: http://www.kdezines.com/MustangParts/RearSeatDeleteKits if you want any more info. They're great to work with and the quality of their kit is absolutely top notch.

Anyway, this provided more than enough room to put the battery in that location. I was running a conventional Motorcraft battery, which required the battery box but a battery box definitely will not fit here. So here's the parts list for the battery relocation-relocation, lol:

Odyssey PC1200 Dry Cell Battery
Arctec Industries Battery Mount (pn# OY1201B)
Mil-Spec Battery Terminals
Various 2 gauge power and ground wire, ring terminals, etc.
Jegs Remote Charging Terminal Kit

First, protect the rear bumper cover with generous amounts of frog tape, and strip all that crap out of the trunk:

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Then it was on to getting the battery mounted under the RSD, Shot the Arctec mount with some metallic dark gray paint and mounted it in place:

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Odyssey battery in its new home:

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Top plate of mount on:

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Terminals in place and cables run. The mil-spec terminals are really nice because they provide plenty of room to grow because of the threaded studs, especially coupled with the top bolts of the Odyssey's terminals. This will make it easy to attach power wires for things in the future should the need arise.

img07762.jpg

I then found myself looking at the trunk with disappointment, and upon remembering how I always wanted to lay down some Dynamat there, I placed an order for 20 sq. ft. of Dynamat Extreme and got to it.
This stuff is a little tricky, but not too bad It just takes some patience to trim all the pieces correctly and work the material over and around curves. Here are a few pics of the process:

photo3ca.jpg

photo2sde.jpg

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I didn't think to take a completed pic, but I ended up getting most of the wheel tubs covered also.

One issue with having the battery under the rear seat delete is that it makes it a bit hard to get to with a harness bar and fixed back Sparco seats. So to make it easier to charge the battery/hook up a battery tender or in an unfortunate case, attach jumper cables I decided to add remote charging posts in the trunk for easy access. I attached the bracket under the deck lid and think it looks pretty good there. I may add some "speed holes" to the bracket to make it look a little less plain-looking, not sure though. (you can also see in one pic I mounted the sub amp under the deck lid also, to get it out of the way).

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Next step is finding some new side panels. I don't have pics but last night I made some cardboard templates for a floor panel. Planning to use 1/2" MDF and wrap it in either carpet or suede.

Edited by 95riosnake
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Since doing the plug wires I've been selling parts, collecting new ones, and thinking about new projects in my free time. By the time I actually turn a wrench, I have usually thought about it like 10 times at work, while falling asleep, etc. lol. I tend to brainstorm things waaaay too much, lol.

3/2/13 - moving the battery and changes to the trunk begin

I can't seem to find any pictures, but my trunk previously had a Taylor battery relocation on the passenger side and a custom sub box that fit into the driver's side corner of the trunk. Here's a picture of the box I had/have though:

http://www.biggerbids.com/members/images/23984/public/2418159_8.jpg

This was ok, but I got tired of the lack of trunk space, the worn, stained carpet, and my hacked up trunk panels (I cut them to accommodate the CHE rear shock tower brace and my previous Tokico D-Specs - you had to be able to access the top of the shocks to adjust them). Now I have Bilsteins with a MM coil over kit so I no longer need these hacked access points through the panels.

So far I've relocated the battery under the rear seat delete, and I'm planning to make a custom sub box to drop the sub down into the spare tire well. I'm also on the hunt for a pair of mint left and right trunk trim panels currently.

Now I'll go into some more detail with pics:

I have a K-Dezines rear seat delete. If you're not familiar with it, it actually raises the bottom up a few inches, which provides quite a bit more room underneath. Here's a link to their site: http://www.kdezines.com/MustangParts/RearSeatDeleteKits if you want any more info. They're great to work with and the quality of their kit is absolutely top notch.

Anyway, this provided more than enough room to put the battery in that location. I was running a conventional Motorcraft battery, which required the battery box but a battery box definitely will not fit here. So here's the parts list for the battery relocation-relocation, lol:

Odyssey PC1200 Dry Cell Battery

Arctec Industries Battery Mount (pn# OY1201B)

Mil-Spec Battery Terminals

Various 2 gauge power and ground wire, ring terminals, etc.

Jegs Remote Charging Terminal Kit

First, protect the rear bumper cover with generous amounts of frog tape, and strip all that crap out of the trunk:

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/9489/img0779gz.jpg

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9140/img0781qe.jpg

Then it was on to getting the battery mounted under the RSD, Shot the Arctec mount with some metallic dark gray paint and mounted it in place:

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5812/img0773vq.jpg

Odyssey battery in its new home:

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/7751/img0774t.jpg

Top plate of mount on:

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5962/img0775l.jpg

Terminals in place and cables run. The mil-spec terminals are really nice because they provide plenty of room to grow because of the threaded studs, especially coupled with the top bolts of the Odyssey's terminals. This will make it easy to attach power wires for things in the future should the need arise.

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/5093/img07762.jpg

I then found myself looking at the trunk with disappointment, and upon remembering how I always wanted to lay down some Dynamat there, I placed an order for 20 sq. ft. of Dynamat Extreme and got to it.

This stuff is a little tricky, but not too bad It just takes some patience to trim all the pieces correctly and work the material over and around curves. Here are a few pics of the process:

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5779/photo3ca.jpg

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/466/photo2sde.jpg

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/4608/photo1xq.jpg

I didn't think to take a completed pic, but I ended up getting most of the wheel tubs covered also.

One issue with having the battery under the rear seat delete is that it makes it a bit hard to get to with a harness bar and fixed back Sparco seats. So to make it easier to charge the battery/hook up a battery tender or in an unfortunate case, attach jumper cables I decided to add remote charging posts in the trunk for easy access. I attached the bracket under the deck lid and think it looks pretty good there. I may add some "speed holes" to the bracket to make it look a little less plain-looking, not sure though. (you can also see in one pic I mounted the sub amp under the deck lid also, to get it out of the way).

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6573/img0785qo.jpg

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/5228/img0783up.jpg

Next step is finding some new side panels. I don't have pics but last night I made some cardboard templates for a floor panel. Planning to use 1/2" MDF and wrap it in either carpet or suede.

i am 100% eyeballing this thread, lol. i'm sure you'll do something clean and bad ass. i'm sooo fn stuck on my trunk area right now. i def cant wait to see how ya do the side panels. Edited by 95riosnake
removed IMG tags so pics wouldn't show up in quote ;)
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i am 100% eyeballing this thread, lol. i'm sure you'll do something clean and bad ass. i'm sooo fn stuck on my trunk area right now. i def cant wait to see how ya do the side panels.

The side panels will be pretty much stock other than a couple slits to let them slip over the brackets for the shock tower brace. I'll snap a picture of my hacked ones tonight and post it here, they aren't pretty. I was in a hurry when I cut them because I installed the shock tower brace the night before leaving to go to Carlisle back in 2011 (because it showed up 2 weeks later than they said it would). It was about 4am and I was in "who cares" mode by that point. The passenger side one also has two big holes in it from the battery cables for the battery box. Ever since then I open the trunk and hate how they look so they are not going back in.

Do you vote for carpet or alcantra/suede on the floor panel? I'm leaning toward the alcantra/suede, I think it would class things up a bit.

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i always like a trunk to mimic the interior. same materials. you have suede inserts in your seats right? are they the alcantra color?

lol, nvmn i just seen you have racing seats with harness. i think good quality carpet looks nice and also forgiving on the trunk floor. anything's better than the shit that comes in these trunks, lol

Edited by tony
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i always like a trunk to mimic the interior. same materials. you have suede inserts in your seats right? are they the alcantra color?

Hmm, no suede in the interior, the Sparcos are cloth. Might stick to carpet, it would DEFINITELY be easier on the wallet lol.

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lol, for some reason i thought you had the cobra seats with the suede inserts..at least i think they're suede. would look cleaner with good quality automotive grade carpet.

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Thanks guys!

As far as the tape, recently I've been habitually covering fenders, the SVO skirts, rear bumper, anything that I might scratch while working on the car. It's cheap protection and less of a hassle to keep in place than bulky fender covers. Fender covers are more protective as far as impacts and such since they're padded and all, but for light abrasion from dirty hands, clothes, metal shavings, extension cords and shoes the tape works great. I buy painter's tape and frog tape damn near in bulk now lol.

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ugh so much cleannn. Too bad my car will never be this clean until i pull the motor because god know what things are sprayed all over everywhere on my car =[

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So here's a picture of the aforementioned hacked trunk panels. I am pretty ashamed of how sloppy of a job I did lol. You can see the large holes in the base of the passenger side panel for the battery cables where they came into the trunk, the various stains and the holes/markings from a previously-installed SMR bar (ended up upgrading to the CHE piece instead).

img0787ya.jpg

Something I forgot to mention, last week I took a trip over to a local mustang shop that is gutting a 95 GT vert to turn it into a coyote-powered drag car, with the intent of snagging a new rear trunk panel (the piece that goes behind the taillights) and ended up scooping that up for only $20 in mint condition. You can somewhat see it sitting under the car on top of the old panel in the picture above. But while I was there BS'ing with the shop owner a bit I noticed one of his guys working on taking out the interior, specifically a pair of kick panels with Polk Audio components in them, so I threw out an offer. I ended up picking up these beauties for a total of $70!!! :bananen_smilies102::bananen_smilies102:

img0788e.jpg

img0789nm.jpg

I'm thinking I'll probably paint the grilles and tweeter surrounds either metallic dark gray or satin black so they blend in a little, the silver would draw a bit more attention than I'm after.

Lastly, I got home from work today and saw this had showed up. I've been looking for this exact one for a long time. We have a pair of these Check-a-Threads at work (standard and metric) and they are just so damn handy to have around for checking threads quickly. I scored this one brand new from eBay for $17 + shipping , compared to $50+ shipping for differently-branded ones I've seen online. I'll continue my hunt for a standard counterpart but for now I'll be happy with this one. It is probably a bit lame that I was so excited about checking metric nut and bolt sizes when I got home from work today, but I suppose that is the life of a car nut, lol.

img0791uj.jpg

Edited by 95riosnake
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hahah that is awesome you found one of those check a threads! I've totally thought before how badass and convenient those would be in your garage! Well done dan! those kick panels are dopppe! should look great when you make them al ittle less flashy

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Dan..... I hate you...... really that means I love you and I'm insanely jealous of your car...... reminds me how insignificant my car is, haha.

I'll continue to drool over this thread for hours and hours....

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hahah that is awesome you found one of those check a threads! I've totally thought before how badass and convenient those would be in your garage! Well done dan! those kick panels are dopppe! should look great when you make them al ittle less flashy

Yea the grilles are a little too flashy looking for me, I like things a little more subdued interior-wise.

Dan..... I hate you...... really that means I love you

hey-stop-thats-gay-o.gif

Just kidding man, it's all good, no-homo ;)

and I'm insanely jealous of your car...... reminds me how insignificant my car is, haha.

I'll continue to drool over this thread for hours and hours....

Haha, your car is definitely not insignificant...you're turning it into a hell of a machine.

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Hahaha. I love that part:

It's coming along but then I see your posts and feel like I'm never going to catch up haha. Just sooooooo much to do.

Don't forget I've owned this car for 9.5 years now, so I had quite a head start on you ;)

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Don't forget I've owned this car for 9.5 years now, so I had quite a head start on you ;)

Haha. That's true. I'm trying to catch up in the 1 year and 3 months I've had this one. I'm dumb haha.

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Off to an expensive start, haha. After this round of mods I'm going to be done for a while so that my wife doesn't get too mad. But let's not derail your thread anymore. You should clean it up and we can talk about this via PM or in another thread. :D

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So here's a picture of the aforementioned hacked trunk panels. I am pretty ashamed of how sloppy of a job I did lol. You can see the large holes in the base of the passenger side panel for the battery cables where they came into the trunk, the various stains and the holes/markings from a previously-installed SMR bar (ended up upgrading to the CHE piece instead).

img0787ya.jpg

Something I forgot to mention, last week I took a trip over to a local mustang shop that is gutting a 95 GT vert to turn it into a coyote-powered drag car, with the intent of snagging a new rear trunk panel (the piece that goes behind the taillights) and ended up scooping that up for only $20 in mint condition. You can somewhat see it sitting under the car on top of the old panel in the picture above. But while I was there BS'ing with the shop owner a bit I noticed one of his guys working on taking out the interior, specifically a pair of kick panels with Polk Audio components in them, so I threw out an offer. I ended up picking up these beauties for a total of $70!!! :bananen_smilies102::bananen_smilies102:

img0788e.jpg

img0789nm.jpg

I'm thinking I'll probably paint the grilles and tweeter surrounds either metallic dark gray or satin black so they blend in a little, the silver would draw a bit more attention than I'm after.

Lastly, I got home from work today and saw this had showed up. I've been looking for this exact one for a long time. We have a pair of these Check-a-Threads at work (standard and metric) and they are just so damn handy to have around for checking threads quickly. I scored this one brand new from eBay for $17 + shipping , compared to $50+ shipping for differently-branded ones I've seen online. I'll continue my hunt for a standard counterpart but for now I'll be happy with this one. It is probably a bit lame that I was so excited about checking metric nut and bolt sizes when I got home from work today, but I suppose that is the life of a car nut, lol.

img0791uj.jpg

those kick panels are made for our cars? dam...i would kill for a set of those, lol. gimme!!!!!!
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I actually have another set of empty ones. I bought a pair of Q-Logic Q Forms a couple years back, they're still in a box on the shelf in my garage. I never bought any components for them, if you are interested shoot me a PM and we can work something out. :thumb:

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Don't forget I've owned this car for 9.5 years now, so I had quite a head start on you ;)

Shoot, I am the 2nd owner of my 95 since 99/00 and have not come anywhere close to this.

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looking good dan text me when you can i have an idea on your trunk

I'll shoot you a text in a few, I've seen your trunk so I know you have good taste :bananen_smilies046:

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^ Do you mean the T-bolt clamps on the blower piping? If so, I got them from www.siliconeintakes.com

1st thing on the left column, $2.60 each

Yea, I need a better solution to the shitty hose clamps I normally use.... Thanks bro... And of course as always, car looks amazing, when I have ideas on how to better my vehicle I ALWAYS turn to your ride....

Jeremy

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Yea, I need a better solution to the shitty hose clamps I normally use.... Thanks bro... And of course as always, car looks amazing, when I have ideas on how to better my vehicle I ALWAYS turn to your ride....

Jeremy

I keep staring at Dan's pictures wondering what I can do to even get started making mine look anywhere near as good. What are easy things under the hood to change out in a weekend or two?

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Re-routing/hiding wires is a big way to clean things up, and essentially it's free. It just takes patience and you have to be careful to hook things back up correctly, lol. There are still a lot of wires I want to hide but haven't felt like diving into any more of it yet.

Other than that, take things off, sand and smooth them, paint and reinstall...another cheap thing. Back when I was in college and money was hard to come by I would just keep taking things off and refinishing them. It made a big difference in how things looked and the materials costs were pretty low.

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