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SN95 351w swap

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i started a new thread so there isnt anymore confusion about what im doing. So from the top:i picked up a 351 from a 1996 F350 that was a plow truck, for $250. Judging by the grey paint in the bell housing area, I'm asuming the motor is a reman.

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I started tearing down the motor to a short block, and was happy to find it was roller cam equipped and not just roller ready. The cylinders look great, and doesn't look like there is much wear in them. Hopefully when it goes to the machine shop it will just need a hot tank and hone (fingers crossed).

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I still have to pick a cam and heads package, and pick up some other swap items.

This list right now is:

New harmonic balancer

New flywheel

new heads and cam the will work well with the intake

New swap headers (hooker 6133)

New water pump

New oil pump

Reman distributor

New larger injectors

Modify fuel rail cross over or go to aftermarket rails

New poly motor mounts (stock replacement, I will be using a 95 R hood so no drop mounts for me)

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I still have to pick a cam and heads package, and pick up some other swap items.

This list right now is:

New harmonic balancer

New flywheel

new heads and cam the will work well with the intake

New swap headers (hooker 6133)

New water pump

New oil pump

Reman distributor

New larger injectors

Modify fuel rail cross over or go to aftermarket rails

New poly motor mounts (stock replacement, I will be using a 95 R hood so no drop mounts for me)

Don't let your intake stifle your head and cam choice. The typical SVO upper intake is going to be a restriction if you put some decent heads and a healthy cam in there. As for your other parts, I do have some recommendations.

1: If you plan to drag race the car.... EVER, stick with a billet steel flywheel.

2: Professional Products makes a nice balancer for short money, just remember to buy for a 28oz imbalance. You will also need an adapter for the front or their balancer. It spaces the pulley out and gives you the correct 4 bolt setup for your pullies.

3: You shouldn't need a whole ton of injector. The 95R used 24#ers, you can probably grab some 30#ers for short money and CYA for the increased flow of the new heads you'll be getting.

4: Modify your stock rails. It takes mere seconds to do. But make sure you use the right clamps. DO NOT USE WORM GEAR CLAMPS! Use these. http://www.delcity.net/images/photos/210602_primary.jpg They are called Fuel Injection Clamps. they give even pressure around 100% of the contact area.

5: Don't forget about a oil pump driveshaft. I dont know if the 302 piece will work. But I do most definitely recommend using an ARP shaft

Edited by The Mk2
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There are lots of guys drag racing with aluminum flywheels, but I still prefer the steel. I think the aluminum is a lot of money for very little gain on the street and absolutely no gain on the drag strip. I can't second the Pro Products balancer. Paying good money to rebuilt an engine just to throw a Chinese balancer on it just doesn't add up for me. Spend the extra money on a factory replacement or a Pioneer.

Kurt

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I was looking at this for the balancer: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163289/overview/year/1995/make/ford/model/mustang

i was going to reuse the oil pump drive shaft, as i read that the ARP piece is not the right length.

i figured i was gonna need an injector somewhere between 30 and 39lbs, so i was close it seems

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A word of caution... Some balancers will hit the timing cover/water pump. So check it for clearance before cranking the engine.

This^. I had to modify my timing chain cover for the balancer.

Sent from Space

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I used a PP one when I threw together my 302 on a budget. For all the negative stuff you sometimes hear about Pro Products stuff, that balancer was actually a pretty nice piece and fit the 302 with no mods. YMMV though especially with the 351 cover.

Agree about the intake possibly being too small for a 351 based motor depending on your heads/cam combo. Those intakes can really only go out to about 250cfm which is right in the ballpark for unported Twisted Wedge heads. Any more and you're going to lose top end power.

Other stuff... really just common sense. Give Woody at fordstrokers.com a call for a rotating assy or head/cam setup or whatever. Ed Curtis at FTI is also great for spec'ing out a combo for the Do It Yourscrelfer.

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I was looking at this for the balancer: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163289/overview/year/1995/make/ford/model/mustang

i was going to reuse the oil pump drive shaft, as i read that the ARP piece is not the right length.

i figured i was gonna need an injector somewhere between 30 and 39lbs, so i was close it seems

Looks Chinese to me. The factory replacement is usually about $5 cheaper and isn't made in China. Neither one is SFI approved anyway.

Kurt

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Talked to the machine shop today... for them to hot tank it, polish the crank, deck the block if needed, check out the rods and pistons, hone the cylinders, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, and short block it.....im looking at $950 bucks not including parts

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Talked to the machine shop today... for them to hot tank it, polish the crank, deck the block if needed, check out the rods and pistons, hone the cylinders, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, and short block it.....im looking at $950 bucks not including parts

That's a great price for all that work.

Sent from my secretary!!!

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I approve of a 351W swap :) Any final choice on the heads/Intake yet?

Intake will be my svo for now. Might sound dumb but I want the intake to be the limiting factor. As far as heads I've been bouncing between 185cc AFR's, and some eddy e-streets

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Intake will be my svo for now. Might sound dumb but I want the intake to be the limiting factor. As far as heads I've been bouncing between 185cc AFR's, and some eddy e-streets

You might want to do a little google on E-streets before buying.

Kurt

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Why is it that you want the intake to be the limiting factor? I had the AFR 185's on my old combo

Mainly because I already have the lower (ported), and when than combo starts to feel slower (say a year or so), its a lot easier to change the intake than to get back into the heads or cam. I know, I'm an idiot

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Speaking of limiting factors... Venom, we should talk about your tune.

Reply in the new thread I made in this section, I'm starting the process now.

as far as this situation you can build the car in what ever steps you want

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travis, keith, do you guys think my C&L 76mm mac and CAI will be able to support the windsor? or should i pick something up? If so, what?

I have no experience but if you want the most airflow, go with a 90mm lmaf or SCT and a power pipe or home made 4"

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