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6 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

Oh come on, you know he wouldn’t. He has talked to much crap about being proud of going mod over pushrod to not complete it. 

 

Yall think i give him a hard time for going mod, let him part that out and see how much I raz him!!!!!  😂 

If you push him over the edge, I’ll be upset lol. I need to hear that engine run. 

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2 hours ago, Evilcw311 said:

Oh come on, you know he wouldn’t. He has talked to much crap about being proud of going mod over pushrod to not complete it. 

 

Yall think i give him a hard time for going mod, let him part that out and see how much I raz him!!!!!  😂 

 

I'd have to LS swap it at this point to ensure you have proper ammunition LOL

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88515771-4AEF-4902-941A-6B6AD938216F.jpeg

 

So, that shit didn’t work. The bracket we welded on wasn’t completely lined up and I had to start over. This time, I found a Mach 1 crossover and it fits like a charm. Now I can move on to the remaining items on my punch list.

 

FF4A1946-42C6-47EC-912D-1BE57E573B70.jpeg

 

CD431F30-CD7C-4712-B3A7-59E0A49CC35B.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Prokiller said:

i know it's pricey but thoughts on why you didn't go with like the on3 kit and just get rid of that piping?

 

So, I bought that stuff because it was cheap to keep what was useable, modify it where needed and to toss the rest. Now, the plan is to have Caleb @ CG build me a hot side that works with my MM K, clears the AC, PS & retains the sway bar. 

 

The on3 kit doesn’t work with the MM k-member and that’s 100% why I didn’t go that route.

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10 minutes ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

We could always build your hot side like Adam did in his purple car. It’s too easy 

 

Especially since we have parts to start with.

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3 hours ago, White95 said:

 

So, I bought that stuff because it was cheap to keep what was useable, modify it where needed and to toss the rest. Now, the plan is to have Caleb @ CG build me a hot side that works with my MM K, clears the AC, PS & retains the sway bar. 

 

The on3 kit doesn’t work with the MM k-member and that’s 100% why I didn’t go that route.

interesting.  didn't know that it wouldn't work with the mm kit.  then i also agree with your approach 

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I’m on the cusp of a first start. However, the start isn’t engaging when I twist the key. This could be a relay or PATS related. If it were PATS, I thought it would at least crank but not start.

 

E28C43E3-A5FE-4321-B575-32A96E0A7FCD.jpeg

 

1) I wired in the fuel pump but still have to rewire it to run like a 94-97 car and not the variable, 98 pump. Thanks @LWARRIOR1016

 

5970266E-1CB9-40D1-986F-814A5C579E06.jpeg

 

2) Swapped the 98 GT cluster to a 98 Cobra

 

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CBE7336F-825B-45B0-B5CD-3200DB727B26.jpeg

 

3) Swapped the 98 GT ECU for the 98 Cobra

 

4) Put the JLT intake together, minus the clamps

 

3680FEF7-1A25-4906-9D83-C04BE2CC5581.jpeg

 

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2118DC85-8347-4C7F-AB81-D875E8430A6E.jpeg

 

5) Grounded the starter harness

 

6) Connected the remaining PS lines

 

7) Installed all 900 coolant hoses

 

 

 

8B263040-03C0-49D0-A78D-AE83016C4341.jpeg

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My buddy gave me passenger seat but I didn’t find out it was junk until after it was cleaned up and installed. It’s very comfortable but the backrest doesn’t lock. 
 
3F523F82-D431-4FBB-BD7F-2E3B5C31C79A.jpeg
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I'm going to make a new harness to replace the CCRM and pass it through this [red] hole.

 

8C48BAA7-6575-49A3-9A43-2D11C56B0B51.jpeg

 

New Holley injector harness...

 

586AE296-F463-4066-BD20-825E6B73B6B8.jpeg

 

New main power harness...

 

6E00C086-BF19-4B05-811F-1726C73124FB.jpeg

 

Test fit...

 

2726C648-8EE1-4B7F-B182-07269EC3FB75.jpeg

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30 minutes ago, droptoppony said:

Nice to see some progress, even with the two steps back, for every one you go forward. 

 

Common theme around here... At least nowadays it’s at home and I can just walk away from it when I’ve had enough. It was windy and rainy today so I didn’t mess with it.

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Battery relocation is 80% completed, like everything else on this car...

 

CACAED1A-EC5B-4EC4-A695-71DBD5C1B8D1.jpegBEAC29D3-D7DC-4C4E-8940-9C997DE1C373.jpeg1CB7887F-5CA7-4556-81C6-8B4E36C030F7.jpeg

 

This portion of the wiring is not final. It may be slightly re-routed and pass between the K member and the chassis.

 

A4982506-BACC-4569-B304-9780BE2ED53B.jpeg

 

The posisitve cable runs nearly the entire length of the run encased in 3/4” heated hose for a little extra protection.

 

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I’m deleting the ABS system and decided to penetrate (heh heh, penetrate, heh) the grommet for the right rear sensor.

 

14A4F69F-3E25-4E95-B7AA-3FB41AA803C3.jpeg23DD16B1-3E22-4A94-A762-7555CB37A6FC.jpeg93683085-9FF5-4BFD-9C9F-2F7053670AB4.jpeg

A3482A8B-9B9A-4404-B15B-5C5C564491BE.jpeg

 

I still have to drop the fuel tank to secure the inner, threaded-rod to the trunk floor. I’m also going to run a ground to the engine block and also to the rear subframe via the rear, lower passenger seat belt mounting stud.

 

CE82EEE8-2940-4FA0-A8D6-8E68184D41D6.jpeg

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The need for an alternator harness came up and I decided to make one. After comparing the 4V, 2V & 302 harnesses I had on hand, the decision was made to modify the 302 harness for service. It was separate from the engine harness in 94-95 so now I can sell the others complete.

CFE828EF-0EB8-48E0-9EFD-2B91046F1763.jpegEF3BBAC3-AB0F-43BD-A746-8AB50C5F4024.jpeg5BAED10F-CB3E-4DDA-81F3-5F5E0F94AFA9.jpeg

 

The main difference being the 2V and 302 had 3G alternators and the 4V has the 4G (thanks for pointing this out @LWARRIOR1016) The 3G alternators use a smaller, grey one wire connector at the alternator whereas the 4G doesn’t BUT the wire is there. Hmm, let’s see where it goes. No where!! Ford didn’t even isolate it. Wow...

 

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4V harness

 

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Wot in tarnation?

 

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Laid the wiring down like I wanted it and secured it together with thin, vinyl splicing tape. I’m waiting for some split, braided loom to arrive and I intend to wrap everything to match the Holley efi harness.

 

4F4F0EA7-B627-42B0-B32C-45D988347149.jpegA564FCA3-07C9-4710-8461-809EBCF6E01E.jpeg2DC61D0C-5F60-4FC2-8DD6-F79911C6465D.jpeg

 

This just shows where I used an adel clamp to secure the wiring for the oil pressure sensor away from the accessory belt drive. I’m planning to use a lot more of these convenient little bastards. This apparently is the way the military routes things on aircraft, according to my USAF mechanic homie, Mikey94GT.

 

D1F7894E-B331-421E-9BB1-0F05AA2A2507.jpeg

 

So, after that was “completed”, I remembered that I needed to tighten the AN fittings at the steering rack. That’s when I realized my error. The 45* fitting at the rack crossed over the straight connector and made it impossible to double wrench. So, I swapped the 45* out for a straight and changed the straight at the Tee fitting for a 90* and it worked like a charm.

 

FE2A9565-CF2D-4394-AA59-C43A58E300D9.jpegC76CE0FC-1E94-44C4-969A-F3B4580F7F85.jpegE76A01D6-2454-4712-AC3E-83829046D81F.jpegA78E70D0-E3B5-4093-82D7-3237652679AF.jpeg

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Sold my other wheels to this gentleman and he sent me his front wheels in a partial trade. If they fit the rear like the offset suggests, I may keep them too.

 

82CCD275-155F-4BA9-B5BD-C97D1B243AF1.jpeg

 

F5E61F9F-79EC-43FE-B9F9-983E05371F5E.jpeg

 

Enkei RS05RR 18x11

 

FB0758CC-1D99-46C5-A75B-DCCF08FD8C2A.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Prokiller said:

giphy.gif

 

those wheels would looks spectacular on there.

 

According to this wheel/size comparing....calculator, [ https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp ] the 18x11's [16mm offset] with 305's will fit close to flush with the fender lip and may require some rolling to stay this low. My exhaust is probably 1-1.5" off the deck at the moment so it realistically needs to be raised considerably.

 

Similar to this fitment:

 

88BCBB32-D572-4120-92B7-3A59D20210B0.jpeg

 

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1 hour ago, Evilcw311 said:

I don’t see how you could do it. 

 

Its like having a beautiful woman with the finest ass right in front of you and you tell her she has to wait for a lil fun cause “that is still the plan”

 

 

 

Who does that?!?!?   🤣 

 

15561A43-33E5-4E0D-82F4-105185B8D43E.jpeg

 

^ Do you want to know more?

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54 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

You couldn’t of came up with a better pic than that?!?!  She’s got no meat on her bones and wouldn’t even get it done for my dog!!!!! 🤣 

 

in all seriousness, that motor is gonna see boost. Several of the reputable builders I e dealt with over the years have always said if it’s gonna be boosted, start it off with the boost. 

 

Or is it your afraid to make that much of a jump in power all at once and kill your self???

 

No, I’m not afraid of it at all. The engine was built for boost! I have too many projects going on that need to be finished before I can worry about completing the blower kit. 

 

Tires, electrical, rear end swap, TA/PHB/rear sway bar install... I’m going to get the car running and put a few hundred, easy break in miles on it. Check filter for metal. You know the process.   

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On 1/14/2019 at 10:34 AM, White95 said:

 

No, I’m not afraid of it at all. The engine was built for boost! I have too many projects going on that need to be finished before I can worry about completing the blower kit. 

 

Tires, electrical, rear end swap, TA/PHB/rear sway bar install... I’m going to get the car running and put a few hundred, easy break in miles on it. Check filter for metal. You know the process.   

 

 

And in the process of getting all that other stuff done, find the right deals and boost it from the beginning.  Lol

 

 

 

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Get that poor woman a creeper, a mat, or at least some cardboard!!!! [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


She has me, I’m creeper enough [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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