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ttocs

The momstangs rebuild

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6 hours ago, ttocs said:

Finally got it fired up tonight.  There is an exhaust leak I need to chase down and need to figure out why the oil and fuel pressure sensors are either reading incorrectly or what is going on and then hopefully we can time it better but for the first time in years it has fire....

 

Video or it didn't happen!;)

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been chasing my tail and finally today I discovered it was because a ground on my starting batter had been pulled out of the compression terminal.  I have no idea how it could have happened short of it getting pulled out by the gas filler neck while putting the tank back on or something but because of this the ground wire was about 8 ft long, too long I guess.  After reconnecting it for the first time it started to fire.  It would start but not stay running for more then 4-5 secs.  We suspected the dist was a tooth off so we pulled #1 and did the TDC dance to set it and noticed while it was out that the plug showed way too much fuel.  At some point one of the tech support guys told me to set the fuel pressure on the software and gauge was 60 psi.  After some reading last night most of the recomendations I found said 40-50 psi so we tried it out and it smoothed it out some more.  suspecting that maybe the gas tank might be too low I ran out for another gallon of 93 and that helped it even more.  After some thought I want to go get 2 more gallons to be sure and while we were shutting things down we noticed that the PCV had popped out.  Now any time I have asked about the pcv in a supercharged setup I have got a different answer from the person before me and my friend helping me that knows more about motors then me said he had a similar set up and just connected the pcv to the boost line going to the manifold but it seemed strange to me to connect a valve that is supposed to let pressure out to a boost line and expect it to work but its easier to try his way and have a plan b ready.  Now I am just not sure what plan b is or should be....  What are you guys doing with the pcv on a supercharged motor?

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I am still chasing my tail on my ignition wire power problem.  It has 12v on it while in the run/crank position as I can verify by simply turning the key with out pushing the clutch to actually kick the starter but as soon as the starter kicks that wire drops down to 8-9 volts and it resets the power on the system as if I have tuned the key off/on real fast.  I have not gone through every inch of my power and ground wires from the battery to the starter cleaning/tightening where needed and replacing many of the stock ground terminals as they had become corroded.  I could have just sanded them down but I already had gold ring terminals so I used them to ensure they were on fresh wire as well.

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But that didn't matter.  I thought maybe what looked to be the stock 23 yr old starter had seen its prime but the new one cranks faster but the dash still flickers off/on.  

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Didn't matter.  I thought maybe the grounding on it was dirty so I added a ground strap I had to a clean section of the frame but it didn't matter.

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I thought that while there was no signs the wire was bad the stock power wire going to the starter might be too old and I already had enough 4 awg and the terminals so I replaced it but it didn't matter.

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I decided to pull all the non-essential fuses in case they were pulling current for some reason and was amazed how hard it was to pull some of the maxi fuses out as some had pretty bad signs of corrosion.  The 4 40 amp fuses feed the ignition/starter circuits so it was possible that the dirtiest one was bad enough it created some resistance and was doing this and I was amazed when after they were cleaned up and replaced that the car for the first time cranked up and didn't make the dash flicker.  But really now dirty fuses!?

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It had toyed with me like this before where it acted normal right after I did something, and then the next day laughed and flickered again.  By this time I had been in the 10 degree garage for a few hours so I decided to put the charger on it and try it again today.  Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand it flickered AGAIN, I cursed AGAIN, and again walked away pondering how much easier it would be to part it out.  

 

I am going to replace the ignition switch even though it shows that its working perfectly fine as well as the fuses I cleaned up and get some contact cleaner to get inside the fuse box but otherwise I am really not even sure what to check now.  I spend a couple hours 2 nights ago flipping through my OEM wiring bible but I am really out of ideas now.  The only other thing I can think of is to run my own wire for the starter/ignition but not even sure about that........

 

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The idle needs to come down some, the fuel pressure up a tad.  I shut it down because the AFR was off the chart but looking at the data it was starting to bring it down as I cut it off.  Oil pressure looked good so next step is to get it up to temp and then turn closed loop learning on to let it make more adjustments to self tune.  Its been nearly 6 years since it ran. 

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Congratulations on getting it running!

I know it been a long road to this point.

Bet you're the most excited person on the planet now.

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spent some more time with it running tonight and got it up to temp.  Everything looks good except AFR but I think I might have fingered that out after a little helpful reading.

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Congrats Scott! Has to be a good feeling to finally fire it up again.

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well it was running but it was running rough as hell with the afr in the high 20s and the timing was all over the place for some reason.  After getting an infared temp thingy I discovered #1 was not firing.  After some checks it came down to dirty injectors.  When I cut the fuel lines I made sure to blow them out with my compressor but I guess I didn't get it all out.  After cleaning out all the hoses and injectors I reinstalled them and was so happy to hear it fire up and the afr was good from once.  The RPM was about 2100 though so I went around to the front of the hood to adjust it down and about the time I got back to the throttle body I heard a pop and there was fuel pissing out on the firewall.  After a lot of inspection I could not figure out what the problem was as the an fittings all looked good and I tried tightening them up to the point I thought I would damage them and they still leaked.  After taking a closer look what I realized was that in my attempt to keep the hoses as short/simple as possible I had made pretty much a straight hose from where it came out at behind the front fender, to the 90 degree an fitting that connected to the rail.  The hoses in the kit were the stainless braided hose that is stiffer then the non braided and with it charged it was even stiffer so with it being straight the only place for any vibrations to be transferred into the system was right at the 90 degree fitting.  I ordered non-stainless braided hose and some new 90s just in case and this time ran them with a bend in them to accept the vibrations and thankfully it held.  With a turn of the key it fired up and for the first time the afr looked good.  It started to temp up and hit 160 and entered learning mode.  I watched as the temp kept creeping up till it reached 220 and showed no signs of slowing.  It was at that point I realized I am not sure I set the fan on/off temps and later remembered that I disconnected the fan earlier while trouble shooting electrical problems.  Fixed both of those and now its staying at 215 degrees fairly solidly although its a cool day so I would like to see it a little cooler.

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Man that fuel situation could have been disastrous, I bet you were frantic! Car looks to be idling nicely now, congrats! I kept hoping for a little throttle blip in that video lol.

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1 hour ago, 95riosnake said:

Man that fuel situation could have been disastrous, I bet you were frantic! Car looks to be idling nicely now, congrats! I kept hoping for a little throttle blip in that video lol.

just a little fuel

42762039051_fb4ae17213_t.jpgVID_20180612_160509421.mp4 by Scott Sorensen, on Flickr

 

Yea I dove through the window dukes of hazard style to get to the key from the passenger side.

 

Yesterday was another good day as I finally figured out the sequence to get the timing set.  Its not complicated but like anything software based there is a learning curve involved.  Now its idling well enough to take it for a spin so I have started to go through the brakes to get it ready to fill/bleed and possibly fix any errors or problems made.

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In other news I have been feeling a little better and actually gained 5 lbs.  I guess the old creeper could not handle it.....

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I chased leaky brake lines all over the place to the point I finally swept up all the kitty litter tonight and was surprised how much there was.  Had some double fittings were I needed bubbles and then when I finally got them all right it was still leaking.  I finally realized the flare tools I was borrowing/renting from autozone sucked and they were making the flares just a few degrees off but just enough that they would not seal.  I didn't want to spend the money but after some thought I realized all the money I spent on this system is worthless if the flares are off just a tad so I bit the bullet and got this kit.

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its a nice and fairly simple set up that allows you to do accurate flares both on the car or you can lock it down in a vice as well and its hydraulically assisted so its nice and easy to turn.  My only complaint is the dies to lock the hose in place do not have any teeth to grip with which is nice because it doesn't leave marks on the hose but you have to tighten the 10mm set screw to hold the dies in place like a mofo.  It does come with a beefy allen wrench to do it but I find it a little awkward to tighten down enough if its not in a vice.  Not a huge complaint but its there but after getting this I was able to get everything straightened out and sealed and finally got the system bled today.

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After a brief celebration though I realized my next problem was I have not seen the shifter handle since we dropped the motor I am not sure how many years ago.  Every time I have gone to start it I have reached over for it to do the neutral shuffle before realizing it is in neutral and it didn't matter to start it so I would worry about it later.  So now I can start it, hopefully stop it too but if I could only get in gear....  Took a pretty good search both in the garage and basement as it was in a VERY safe place but I found it.  got it on, the brake lights, the trunk latch.  I have some more stuff to do before its ready but I hope to take a short spin around the block in the next couple of days.

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I have a video of it running but I can't figure out how to post the vid from flickr tonight.

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Holy shit you weren't joking about that fuel leak!

 

Make sure to have someone shoot video of the maiden voyage as it pulls out of the gargae under its own power, I'm looking forward to the day when I can finally drive mine again.

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yea fuel leak doesn't really cover it and fuel spray sounds really bad but it was.  I have never before considered doing a Luke Duke slide across my carbon fiber hood but if it were down that day it was option #1 that flashed through my head, option 2 had me dive through the pass window.  Yesterday was a good day.  Finally got the wheels/tires on and then got it on the ground for the first time in 6 yrs.  Last night I took care of some loose wiring in the drivers area and noticed I need to pay attention to my steering before I go anywhere.  You can tell one wheel is turned more then the other and then when I started it up last night there was a new noise.  IT was sort of like a back fire that would only occasionally happen but there was almost a metalic element to it of the exhaust hitting the underbody or something.  I called a local motor friend and he came over and then of course the noise went away, and a new one started.  IT sounds like the freewheel is rubbing something so I am going to jack one side back up to take a look at those two things but otherwise for the first time in 6 yrs its tickling the ground.

 

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And I still need to mess with the caster/camber settings and I am not really all that happy with the little bit f rear poke I have but in general I am tickled to see it on the ground again.  

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I keep forgetting things.  My buddy said noticed that at idle now its running lean around 14.3-14.6 and that might have been causing the back fire sound that seems to have corrected itself.  Looking at the data its running right on the target afr so it can be adjusted, what should it be?

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The afr on my 3v swap jumps between 14.5 and 15.3 at idle.  It almost looks like a air/fuel gauge hooked up to a stock O2 sensor it moves around so much. 

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Looking good man! It's always crazy how small/low these cars seem back on the ground after you've worked on them on jack stands for a long time frame lol. The rear poke isn't too bad, I've seen people have much more than that, by choice lol.

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had some issues with the gauges but finally got them straightened out and installed.  The A-pillar is dedicated to the left AFR, the two other gauges can show coolant/oil temp, oil/fuel pressure, boost and ait.  With everything being touchscreen now I need to play with them to figure out what I like best as the tach is way too busy right now.

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I also installed the clock pod I made into the radar/laser detector display as well as a center channel for the stereo.

 

 

 

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Found a better pic of the gauges.  Both the digital dash as well as the dm6's are touch screen so hopefully setting them up will not be too bad.

 

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That display is definitely sweet! I would say if you can get the tach to display just the first number, and skip the x500's, it would be much better. There's a reason that's how every tach you've ever seen is laid out that way, lol. The 10-2 o'clock area is definitely super busy as you said lol.

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you will never freeking guess what happened. Its just unbelievable.... After a being sick for a week and then spending a day in the garage removing the wheels/bleeding the brakes and putting it all back together just wore me out. As much as I wanted to go out and try it at first light I was just too tired. I slept all damn day. Finally after dinner I woke up and decided to give it a go. I went out and got her started up and running. I wanted to get it up to 160 degrees to enter learning mode for the drive so I pulled it out into the driveway while it warmed up. I got a little worried as something sounded different but after realizing its the first time I have heard it out of the garage and with the hood down, yup it sounded different. So 160 hits and I decided to wait a little longer for the thermostat to open and get the cooling system going. Once it did I released the parking brake and eased it out of the driveway. I live on a section that has a loop but part of that loop has a hill I wanted to avoid because the brakes were still a little softer then I liked, but once I got down to the end of the road I realized they would be ok and just took the loop. I had to laugh as the neighborhood wrencher and his son were standing out on the corner to watch as I went by as they have never hung out there before..... They gave me a thumbs up, pretty sure I just returned a worried look. BUT IT WORKED!!!! I was a little worried about the noise from the back end but I think it was just some of the extra parts I have stored in the trunk. I will have to empty it out and try it again tomorrow but for the first time in 6 yrs the stang is parked forwards in the garage.

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You, sir (and everyone who has ever had a project sit forever but refused to give up), are a shining example for everyone who ever threw a wrench or screwdriver in frustration because something was taking way longer than it should. Nice job! (Group clapping ensues in background)😎

 

Non desistam.

Edited by streetpilot
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Congratulations, Scott.

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so the motor is doing even better.  I was having issues where it would start cold but then once it was hot it would just crank and crank.  After learning about temp enrichment and making some major changes on the starting area of the tune I was afraid it would not even fire cold but to my surprise it fired up faster the first time and was able to start again at 180 degrees.  After that the next biggest problem was my brakes.  They will lock up but they are VERY soft.  After multiple bleedings with different techniques I read that I need to get the abs pump to activate to allow the air in it to cycle out, then bleed it again.  This led to a LOT of reading about the stock abs system and the only thing I could come up with that was preventing the abs from working was the loss of the abs warning light when I switched my dash.  I had figured it was just an indicator but after further research if the system realizes it is not working it shuts down.  I went and got a light and wired it up to test and with the key on it lit up and stayed on showing that there was a problem with the abs system.

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It took some digging but I found my abs diagnostic harness and grounded the wire needed to put into diagnostic mode and then turned the key on.  Now the led started to flash the err code to show one of the rear wheel speed sensors was bad.  I tested the sensor where it comes in under the back seat and it showed 2.4k ohms which is perfectly in spec.  I was hoping it was going to be bad as that is a simple replacement but this meant that there was a short/break in the circuit between the back where I measured it and the front where I could not.  Tracing wires sucks but so does running wires so I started tracing.  After checking a couple of spots I poked my head up into the fender to see what I saw and was amazed to find a wire cut, looking right at me.  Sure enough right next to it was the other one I was looking for and it tested out at 2.4k ohms.  I connected it and then was happy to see that I was able to measure 2.4k up at the abs unit.  I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, then reconnected it and turned the key on to see the light flash on and then turn off as normal.  I am hoping to take a trip around  the block after dinner to test if it works.  Cross your fingers for me.....

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