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The momstangs rebuild

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ok cool.  I just noticed today that there is a piece missing in this pic that screws into the side and has the two vac barbs on it.  Anyone know where to get one of those?

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plumbing aspect is what I need help with.  I didn't want to mount it on the scottrod panel I installed but there wasn't much space left so its on the drivers side where the washer fluid res. us to be. 

 

this is what I got except mine has a bolt on top that can be taken out for a baffle to be installed that was included.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REAL-Carbon-Fibre-Oil-Catch-Can-Tank-Universal-15mm-Nozel-NEW-JDM-DRIFT-DRAG-/190987833350?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c77c31006&vxp=mtr

 

I'd definitely run the baffle, it will help contain the oil inside the can. I'd say put it in between your PCV and intake manifold, maybe someone else can elaborate better. I have no PCV system whatsoever now since I'm running a vacuum pump.

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I'd definitely run the baffle, it will help contain the oil inside the can. I'd say put it in between your PCV and intake manifold, maybe someone else can elaborate better. I have no PCV system whatsoever now since I'm running a vacuum pump.

I have heard about the vac pump system but not seen how to hook it up or where to get the pump.  If its better to do it that way I am not opposed to buying parts needed.  Just don't know what is needed.

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I have heard about the vac pump system but not seen how to hook it up or where to get the pump.  If its better to do it that way I am not opposed to buying parts needed.  Just don't know what is needed.

 

You might not need a vac pump, it's definitely not a simple or inexpensive thing to get on the car. I would try the catch can and only if it won't do what you need, then you could look into the vac pump setup. I have some info/pics of mine in my build thread about 2/3-3/4 down the first page, I can post them in this thread if you want. I was about to but I wasn't sure if you wanted me to clutter up your thread.

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fixed the line lock mess up, hopefully...  I know I traced the lines at one point but I guess I mixed them up when the lines cross under the abs unit.  On top of that my manual lists two of the brake lines as "front brakes" and labels the 3rd/rear "brake line" which I assumed meant it was the input.  Ah well we all make mistakes and I am not very comfortable flaring/bending them and I can say I learned something.

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I also started on my meth tank.

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After looking around I just could not find anyplace that would be easy to mount a tank too that would be easy to fill.  The trunk is already planned for with my stereo so I didn't have anything there that would work.  After a lot of looking around I noticed now how much space was above the radiator with out the hrns there now and measured that a 2" x 4" x 25" tank could fit on top of it and calculated that it would hold just under a gallon there.  My aluminum welding is not as good as my steel and that is still pretty scary so I am fairly sure I am not ready to weld a complete tank yet.  I took the easy way out and got a 2 x 4": piece of structural aluminum 1/8" wall rectangular tubing and will weld some ends/mounting brackets on it as well as a filler neck and a bung on the bottom.  I was going to make some gussets on the mounting brackets for strength and the radiator mounts are right under it, so I will integrate the upper mounts into the gussets and when the tank is in place 2 of the same screws are used to hold the ac condenser mounts in place behind the tank again for easy removal.  Once the screws holding the tank are out the radiator and the condenser can both come out

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Good call using structural tubing rather than doing all that welding, regardless of skill there's no reason to do all that welding if you don't have to. And you're reducing your chances of a leak down to only the ends and the bung :2thumb:

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Yes is cost more then the raw aluminum of course but I think after you factor another 100" of welding with time/materials it seemed like the way to go.  It was only $26 shipped for the whole piece with a few extra inches too learn and burn on the welder before I go to the tank

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got the cardboard out today and made my templates for the brackets and then thought I would run to the hardware store to pick up some aluminum as I am sure I have before.  After going to  3 places I gave up as other then some diamond plate they didn't have anything that wasn't paper thin.  Just made an order to my local sheet metal place for it now just have to wait till tomorrow unfortunately.

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made my template and then transferred that to metal and then bent them into shape.

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after that I welded them on.  Because of the extra material I got I practiced to figure out what settings I wanted and how fast too move. This is the first time I have ever pulled a weld and realized I needed to slow down and at the end I felt more comfortable with the aluminum then with steel most of the time....  Still a little thick in some places and I am sure there are spots I need to fill still but I am happy with it.  I made the mounting bracket on the left a 1/4" longer because the bung will be on that side so under acceleration the liquid will be pulled towards it.  I also left extra material in the gussets as that is where the rad mounts will go and I am will drill those and then cut the excess material out after so they are much smaller/smoother.

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The bracket that came with the vortech kit would not allow me to use the larger alt I wanted too

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so I cut a new one out of 1/4" stainless and I am now waiting on the drill press I have been planning on buying to drill the holes.  Because it holds it up/out further I left the extra material as a gusset and shaped it around the alt fan nice and tight.

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here the tank is mounted into place with the overflow tank.  I will probably modify the upper mount for the overflow tank to make a shorter bracket.

8540491401807608-0a7a1e5cb0.jpg

 

 

I left just enough room to remove the cap for the radiator but kept it tight around the filler neck for support.  You can also see the upper rad mount I integrated into the brackets.

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I used the same bolt holes the ac condenser mount uses so now with two screws the tank/rad/fan/condenser is all loose.

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The filler neck and the bung for the bottom are on their way now.  Really happy with how its turning out and the only thing I would do differently was to get a 2 x 6 as that would have got me 1.5 gallons.

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yes its black but nice and smooth.

 

Yeah, mine came with a finished underside as well. I had to cut some of it up to get it to clear the motor but had it all color matched.  Didn't require much prep work at all.

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Are you going to make it functional? I wish Niche PI was still in business

I have been considering it and on the other hand I really don't want to dick it up...  I am going to make that decision after I install the flush aerocatch hood pins.  After those it might not be so scary to do precision cutting on a carbon fiber hood.  Now the SN vents look to be functional to the holes in the back of the hood so I am considering maybe making a few more holes in that area to help it. 

 

The vents are removable and there is no mesh/grill material.  I want to put something really killer behind it, certainly not gutter guard.  Anyone know of anything that would look cool back there?

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The vents are removable and there is no mesh/grill material.  I want to put something really killer behind it, certainly not gutter guard.  Anyone know of anything that would look cool back there?

 

These guys have a pretty cool looking material:

 

http://www.racemeshgrilles.com/

 

A-Team Racing used it on the badass V10-powered Mustang II they built

 

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Dunno, works for me

its back up now but the only way I can find to order anything is by getting a pre-cut piece made specifically for each car and there isn't anything listed for our cars.  Do you know where the option is to buy it just by the square foot/inch?

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its back up now but the only way I can find to order anything is by getting a pre-cut piece made specifically for each car and there isn't anything listed for our cars.  Do you know where the option is to buy it just by the square foot/inch?

 

I would just email them and ask if you could buy a square foot of the material, their email is listed as racemesh@sbcglobal.net

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I was amazed too with the response.   I even asked if they considered making a kit for sn95 mustangs since they do not have anything for any mustangs yet and didn't get a response.  I found some place, even just amazon.  I am considering cutting out some braided stainless steel mesh and using that, maybe painting it black.  I think the pattern on it would match the CF and look cool.

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I had been wanting a drill press for a while now but with all the metal work I have been doing on this project it became a need on a couple of projects I had been putting off for this reason.  Looked for a good used one but they were either $1500 industrial models or super cheap/old so I broke down and went to sears.  I put it right to work and I guess I was not totally surprised to discover that harbor freight bits do not like 1/4" stainless steel so I was back to sears to get a nice cobalt set(the material not the brand).  I was amazed to see they wanted $100 for a set, thankfully they were $20 off and I had $46 work of credit from previous purchases so I got them for just over $30 with tax and was back at work. 

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The stock vortech bracket would not allow the larger alt I wanted to be used so a new bracket was made.

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This should hold it in place.

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I am going to get all the brackets powdered black and then will polish the front of the alt fan and the supercharger. 

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had to move the meth pump after deciding to relocate some of the ac pieces but its now mounted/plumbed/wired/ready.  I also ran the temp probe for the intake temp gauge I am adding at the same time.

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I have also been stripping some really thick paint off of some old fox vale covers for the next part of my project.  I could not help but hit one with a flap wheel to take the casting scale off and smooth it out.  Not sure if I will paint/polish them yet but they will be glossy smooth either way.

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I also got a -10 koul tool to help put the -10 lines together after the -6 for the fuel lines was so easy.  The -10 lines will be for the oil separator that is next on the project.

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looking at the finished work last night my wiring ocd kicked in. First I realized I meant to run a wire to show when the snow kit is spraying, and then

realized the way I wrapped the wires in techflex would be a mess later since two wires(temp probe and snow power wire) are going to the same place and then the two leds wires(low level and spraying) wires into the dash. So I went out this morning and tore everything apart only to realize I didn't have the wire color/length I needed so now its torn apart awaiting a trip to the parts store. One step forward DAMN YOU OCD.....

I was going to polish the top of the valve covers but after some thought, I don't feel like keeping the bottom of the intake clean which is what they would reflect if they were clean. So considering paint/powder/hydrodipping now along with using some of my fender badges to customize them. Not sure if I should go black, body color or hydrodipped carbon fiber to match the hood and other touches.... I would also like to use the fender badges I had made to go one step further although not sure how to attach them or if they would even be seen in the end. I am considering drilling some holes(3 per piece) through the badges to insert some nails(welded) to use to help hold them on. After that I am not sure if I should drill completely through the valve covers and with some epoxy seal them up and maybe a light tap of a hammer to bend the pins back enough to help hold them in. My other thought was to not go through the covers all the way through the covers to not worry about leaks, still using epoxy to hold them in place finally. Only concern there is if there is an epoxy that would not either bother the oil/valves below or that would corrode to fall apart later. Opinions on either the look(body color, gloss black or carbon fiber)? Any opinions on the badges on/off/how? The baffle will obviously be going and replaced with a cap too fill with. Seems like it will be hard to get to that part to fill oil with everything together is there any problem with putting it on the drives side to fill easier there?

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The baffle will obviously be going and replaced with a cap too fill with. Seems like it will be hard to get to that part to fill oil with everything together is there any problem with putting it on the drives side to fill easier there?

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