Det_Riot Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 I've got these covers if you'd like to give then a shot. Let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 the driver side valve cover without the baffle seems to clear the rockers. Its good to hear that taking the baffle out will work. Did you need to grind down the bosses in the valve cover that support the baffle? I also know that the trick flow stock height valve covers to clear these rockers. they would need to be modified to fill oil and for the PCV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 the driver side valve cover without the baffle seems to clear the rockers. Its good to hear that taking the baffle out will work. Did you need to grind down the bosses in the valve cover that support the baffle? I also know that the trick flow stock height valve covers to clear these rockers. they would need to be modified to fill oil and for the PCV. I did on mine for extra "insurance" it's not hard to do and gives you better piece of Mind.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted April 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 A few updates here. First - the driver side foxbody valve cover fits both sides without issues. The passenger side fox cover is not going to work because of the geography of the filler neck. What I plan to do is run a driver side foxbody valve cover on both sides. We are going to modify the front of the valve cover on the drivers side to accomodate a fill hole / baffle / vent. I'll update on that once we get to it! Another thing I found is that all of the water pump bolts I supplied were for a foxbody. The SN bolts are different sizes, so I needed to buy a kit for that, which is on the way. I may also change the valve cover gaskets. I have the motorsports set, and there was a set from summit on there, but I really like the Fel Pro - so I may pick that up. Lastly, I updated my blog on the engine build: http://www.geargambler.blogspot.com It tells the whole story on the engine build, and also a potential disaster that was avoided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 A few updates here. First - the driver side foxbody valve cover fits both sides without issues. The passenger side fox cover is not going to work because of the geography of the filler neck. What I plan to do is run a driver side foxbody valve cover on both sides. We are going to modify the front of the valve cover on the drivers side to accomodate a fill hole / baffle / vent. I'll update on that once we get to it! Another thing I found is that all of the water pump bolts I supplied were for a foxbody. The SN bolts are different sizes, so I needed to buy a kit for that, which is on the way. I may also change the valve cover gaskets. I have the motorsports set, and there was a set from summit on there, but I really like the Fel Pro - so I may pick that up. Lastly, I updated my blog on the engine build: http://www.geargambler.blogspot.com It tells the whole story on the engine build, and also a potential disaster that was avoided. I run drivers side valve covers on both sides now, actually the drivers side valve cover clears the alternator better than the passenger side fox cover, I will send a pic of how I have my breather/fill port when I get home.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted April 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 I run drivers side valve covers on both sides now, actually the drivers side valve cover clears the alternator better than the passenger side fox cover, I will send a pic of how I have my breather/fill port when I get home.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks man! A pic would be helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Where did you find a bolt kit for the water pump?!? When I did my motor this last time I couldn't find a kit for the pump or timing cover.This message courtesy of crapatalk! I don't know where the GearGambler got his but Totally Stainless has 94-95 specific bolt kits. I used them for the full kit for my Windsor build. http://www.totallystainless.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 not the best pics but you get the idea, I have an oil separator in between to keep oil out of the intake.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted April 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Thanks, Zach! I'm thinking something similar. tig in a bung, 5/8 elbow reduced to feed the PVC. we may try and get a baffle in there if we can keep it towards the front of the valve cover. Where did you find a bolt kit for the water pump?!? When I did my motor this last time I couldn't find a kit for the pump or timing cover.This message courtesy of crapatalk! I don't know where the GearGambler got his but Totally Stainless has 94-95 specific bolt kits. I used them for the full kit for my Windsor build. http://www.totallystainless.com/ just ran a search on eBay and it popped up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161024210857?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted May 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 I installed the water pump kit - two of the bolts bottomed out, so I took about 1/4 inch off of them. No big deal, and still worth it IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 I got the valve covers sorted out. Tig welded in a bung on the drivers side cover along with a baffle below the bung on the inside. dropped both covers off for powdercoating. They both fit no issues! I also used a valve cover stud kit - all stainless, and a good fel pro gasket. Then February came around and the real fun started!!! Here are all my notes from the engine install. Some day I'll write it up nicely on my blog. but for now, here's everything I did, from the beginning of February until now. Enjoy! disassembly, pull the engine out of the car Start 2/8/2016 Disconnect the fuel shut off switch Run the car until it stalls Crank the car a few more times Disconnect and remove the battery - keep it on a tender Remove the mid pipe Remove the driveshaft Remove the shifter, speedo, reverse Remove the crossmember and transmission Take the trans to have it rebuilt at Hanlon Motorsports Drain coolant, remove radiator remove cold air intake unbolt the power steering bracket and keep it off to the side. remove upper intake - throttle cable, vac lines, EGR tube Unplug EVERYTHING - there’s a lot Motor mount bolts ground strap and starter wire loom (3 spots) engine out 2/12/2016 Trans - dropped off 2/10/2016 to Hanlon motorsports Got trans back 2/28/2016 - fixed cancer on main shaft, cluster support brace, latest rebuild kit, new fork and pivot ball. Need Done Vacuum line 3/8 and 1/4. Before engine install Done - Wire loom repair Done - install bell housing, new clutch fork, new release bearing Done - replace pivot ball Done - Install dipstick Done - prime and paint frame rails Done - Welding frame rail inside and outside plates done - tighten header bolts done - Test fit frame rail plates Done - Upper intake bolts - trim? No Done - Restore dipstick tube Done - Distributer install Done - install EGR on upper intake. done - install passenger side VC vent tube done - rust on the framerails - how far does it go? Done - Rust rehab in the framerails - wire brush, degreaser, metal prep, POR15 Done- Create cardboard frame rail templates Done create frame rail plates 11 gauge 1/8 inch steel from templates Done test fit frame rail plates Done paint frame rail plates with weld through primer. Done - Lou - weld in frame rail plates - inner and outer. Some additional cutting , bending , shaping. Done - wire wheel plates / welds Done self etching primer Done black wrinkle over primer. Done - install TB. done - clearance intake - make it fit without spacer done - make EGR block plate Done - trans prep - install crossmember, rebuild shifter, install vss, add fluid, install shifter. Reassembly Done break out the crane! Done Install motor mounts and motor once on the crane Done install motor 3/7/2016 Done PS bracket Done coil install Done Engine electrical hookups Done Trans install Done Shifter handle, boot and knob Done Coolant lines Done Fuel lines Done Radiator and overflow 3/8/2016 Done Starter and bolts Done Cap and wires Done Idler pulley Done Motor mount nuts Done Driveshaft Done mid pipe and O2 sensors Done grounding straps Done Upper intake, electrical, vac lines Done EGR tube install on header (with Penny) Done Cold air intake Done validate belt routing 3/11/2016 Done Fuel shut off Done Battery Done Coolant Done power steering fluid First startup - prime 2x pull spout 3/12/2016 it runs!! Timing Adjust TB? Adjust clutch cable - too tight! won’t stay running. set timing and made a mess of the coolant. autozone - picked up fuel pressure gauge, IAC, ECT, and a belt. 3/14 - Lou showed up to help out! pulled plugs - fouled. codes say engine coolant temp sensor is bad. fuel pressure is good. belt is too short. replaced belt - good size. replaced plugs, idle base reset. plugged in ECT - not installed, but It idles (cold)! 3/16 installed ECT. more antifreeze. idle set at cold and hot. 3/19 down off jack stands, cleared out garage. test drive led to CEL - multiple. 3/20 - CEL for lean exhaust. fixed exhaust leak - #4 header tube passenger side. loosened header, tightened #4 and the rest. moved shim on k member for mid pipe clearance. firewall adjuster is all the way in - still tight. found muffler is cracked. removed spacer from MM clutch cable at the quadrant. adjusted firewall adjuster - clutch feel is perfect now. 3/22 - cleared codes and drove it. multiple codes point to CCRM (fan low speed, fuel pump relay). Replaced. Codes are gone for CCRM. 3/24 - replaced O2 sensors. cleared memory and drove it. 3/25 - Still getting lean code. fixed header collector flange leak on drivers side. new stainless studs, nuts and washers. cleared memory and drove it. 3/27 - Lean code still there. Also suspect fuel issue. Traced wires. found that power to ground pin on the engine harness side for the drivers side O2 sensor connector is pushed back. Serviced by taking weather pack apart and moving the pin then putting it back together. No more lean code 176! found fuel on the intake. #1 injector popped out. loosened fuel rail, pushed injector back in, held down fuel rail and tightened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...