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New Project: Daily Driver Motor

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the driver side valve cover without the baffle seems to clear the rockers.  Its good to hear that taking the baffle out will work.  Did you need to grind down the bosses in the valve cover that support the baffle?  

 

I also know that the trick flow stock height valve covers to clear these rockers.   they would need to be modified to fill oil and for the PCV. 

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the driver side valve cover without the baffle seems to clear the rockers. Its good to hear that taking the baffle out will work. Did you need to grind down the bosses in the valve cover that support the baffle?

I also know that the trick flow stock height valve covers to clear these rockers. they would need to be modified to fill oil and for the PCV.

I did on mine for extra "insurance" it's not hard to do and gives you better piece of Mind.

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A few updates here.  First - the driver side foxbody valve cover fits both sides without issues. The passenger side fox cover is not going to work because of the geography of the filler neck.  What I plan to do is run a driver side foxbody valve cover on both sides.  We are going to modify the front of the valve cover on the drivers side to accomodate a fill hole / baffle / vent.  I'll update on that once we get to it!  

 

Another thing I found is that all of the water pump bolts I supplied were for a foxbody.  The SN bolts are different sizes, so I needed to buy a kit for that, which is on the way.  

 

I may also change the valve cover gaskets.  I have the motorsports set, and there was a set from summit on there, but I really like the Fel Pro - so I may pick that up.  

 

Lastly, I updated my blog on the engine build:  http://www.geargambler.blogspot.com It tells the whole story on the engine build, and also a potential disaster that was avoided.  

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A few updates here. First - the driver side foxbody valve cover fits both sides without issues. The passenger side fox cover is not going to work because of the geography of the filler neck. What I plan to do is run a driver side foxbody valve cover on both sides. We are going to modify the front of the valve cover on the drivers side to accomodate a fill hole / baffle / vent. I'll update on that once we get to it!

Another thing I found is that all of the water pump bolts I supplied were for a foxbody. The SN bolts are different sizes, so I needed to buy a kit for that, which is on the way.

I may also change the valve cover gaskets. I have the motorsports set, and there was a set from summit on there, but I really like the Fel Pro - so I may pick that up.

Lastly, I updated my blog on the engine build: http://www.geargambler.blogspot.com It tells the whole story on the engine build, and also a potential disaster that was avoided.

I run drivers side valve covers on both sides now, actually the drivers side valve cover clears the alternator better than the passenger side fox cover, I will send a pic of how I have my breather/fill port when I get home.

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I run drivers side valve covers on both sides now, actually the drivers side valve cover clears the alternator better than the passenger side fox cover, I will send a pic of how I have my breather/fill port when I get home.

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Thanks man!  A pic would be helpful!  

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Where did you find a bolt kit for the water pump?!? When I did my motor this last time I couldn't find a kit for the pump or timing cover.

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

 

I don't know where the GearGambler got his but Totally Stainless has 94-95 specific bolt kits.  I used them for the full kit for my Windsor build.

 

http://www.totallystainless.com/

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Thanks, Zach!  I'm thinking something similar.  tig in a bung, 5/8 elbow reduced to feed the PVC.  we may try and get a baffle in there if we can keep it towards the front of the valve cover.

 

Where did you find a bolt kit for the water pump?!? When I did my motor this last time I couldn't find a kit for the pump or timing cover.


This message courtesy of crapatalk!

 

I don't know where the GearGambler got his but Totally Stainless has 94-95 specific bolt kits.  I used them for the full kit for my Windsor build.

 

http://www.totallystainless.com/

 

just ran a search on eBay and it popped up:  

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161024210857?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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I got the valve covers sorted out.  Tig welded in a bung on the drivers side cover along with a baffle below the bung on the inside.  dropped both covers off for powdercoating.  They both fit no issues!  I also used a valve cover stud kit - all stainless, and a good fel pro gasket.  Then February came around and the real fun started!!!

 

Here are all my notes from the engine install.  Some day I'll write it up nicely on my blog.  but for now, here's everything I did, from the beginning of February until now.  Enjoy!

 

disassembly, pull the engine out of the car
Start 2/8/2016
Disconnect the fuel shut off switch 
Run the car until it stalls
Crank the car a few more times
Disconnect and remove the battery - keep it on a tender
Remove the mid pipe
Remove the driveshaft
Remove the shifter, speedo, reverse
Remove the crossmember and transmission
Take the trans to have it rebuilt at Hanlon Motorsports
Drain coolant, remove radiator
remove cold air intake
unbolt the power steering bracket and keep it off to the side.  
remove upper intake - throttle cable, vac lines, EGR tube
Unplug EVERYTHING - there’s a lot
Motor mount bolts
ground strap and starter wire loom (3 spots)
engine out 2/12/2016

Trans - dropped off 2/10/2016 to Hanlon motorsports

Got trans back 2/28/2016 - fixed cancer on main shaft, cluster support brace, latest rebuild kit, new fork and pivot ball.

Need
Done Vacuum line 3/8 and 1/4. 

Before engine install
Done - Wire loom repair
Done - install bell housing, new clutch fork, new release bearing 
Done - replace pivot ball
Done - Install dipstick
Done - prime and paint frame rails
Done - Welding frame rail inside and outside plates
done - tighten header bolts 
done - Test fit frame rail plates
Done - Upper intake bolts - trim?  No
Done - Restore dipstick tube
Done - Distributer install
Done - install EGR on upper intake.  
done - install passenger side VC vent tube
done - rust on the framerails - how far does it go?
Done - Rust rehab in the framerails - wire brush, degreaser, metal prep, POR15
Done- Create cardboard frame rail templates
Done create frame rail plates 11 gauge 1/8 inch steel from templates 
Done test fit frame rail plates
Done paint frame rail plates with weld through primer. 
Done - Lou - weld in frame rail plates  - inner and outer. Some additional cutting , bending , shaping. 
Done - wire wheel plates / welds
Done self etching primer 
Done black wrinkle over primer. 
Done - install TB. 
done - clearance intake - make it fit without spacer
done - make EGR block plate
Done - trans prep - install crossmember, rebuild shifter, install vss, add fluid, install shifter. 

Reassembly
Done break out the crane!  
Done Install motor mounts and motor once on the crane
Done install motor 
3/7/2016
Done PS bracket
Done coil install
Done Engine electrical hookups
Done Trans install
Done Shifter handle, boot and knob
Done Coolant lines
Done Fuel lines
Done Radiator and overflow 
3/8/2016
Done Starter and bolts
Done Cap and wires 
Done Idler pulley
Done Motor mount nuts 
Done Driveshaft
Done mid pipe and O2 sensors
Done grounding straps
Done Upper intake, electrical, vac lines
Done EGR tube install on header (with Penny)
Done Cold air intake
Done validate belt routing
3/11/2016
Done Fuel shut off
Done Battery
Done Coolant 
Done power steering fluid
First startup - prime 2x pull spout
3/12/2016 it runs!!

Timing
Adjust TB?
Adjust clutch cable - too tight!

won’t stay running.  set timing and made a mess of the coolant.  
autozone - picked up fuel pressure gauge, IAC, ECT, and a belt.  
3/14 - Lou showed up to help out!  pulled plugs - fouled.  codes say engine coolant temp sensor is bad.  fuel pressure is good. belt is too short.  
replaced belt - good size.  replaced plugs, idle base reset.  plugged in ECT - not installed, but It idles (cold)!  

3/16 installed ECT.  more antifreeze.  idle set at cold and hot.  

3/19 down off jack stands, cleared out garage.  test drive led to CEL - multiple.  

3/20 - CEL for lean exhaust. fixed exhaust leak - #4 header tube passenger side.  loosened header, tightened #4 and the rest.  moved shim on k member for mid pipe clearance.  firewall adjuster is all the way in - still tight.  found muffler is cracked.  removed spacer from MM clutch cable at the quadrant.  adjusted firewall adjuster - clutch feel is perfect now.  

3/22 - cleared codes and drove it.  multiple codes point to CCRM (fan low speed, fuel pump relay).  Replaced.  Codes are gone for CCRM.

3/24 - replaced O2 sensors.  cleared memory and drove it.

3/25 - Still getting lean code.  fixed header collector flange leak on drivers side.  new stainless studs, nuts and washers.  cleared memory and drove it.

3/27 - Lean code still there.  Also suspect fuel issue.  Traced wires.  found that power to ground pin on the engine harness side for the drivers side O2 sensor connector is pushed back.  Serviced by taking weather pack apart and moving the pin then putting it back together.  No more lean code 176!  found fuel on the intake.  #1 injector popped out.  loosened fuel rail, pushed injector back in, held down fuel rail and tightened.  
 

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