Blackmage Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 that's awesome Will! should make driving that thing more funim hopin so! not gonna lie i will miss the auto though. NICE! Time for ko4's? The 01e 6 speed is stout. However, the 1-2 shift collar can give you trouble, mine did... Hopefully they upgraded when "going through" it. All wheel launch's on a Ko4'd stage 3 b5s4 with a JHM stage 3 clutch. Still going strong.man I really want to, knock on wood, id like the stockers to alst at least another year or so and then I may start trying to do a stage 3 build. they have a 6 month warranty on the trans, and they replace the 1-2 syncros, all the seals, and they debur and replace the collars if necessary. no upgrade so heres hoping that everythings kosher when i get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 im hopin so! not gonna lie i will miss the auto though. man I really want to, knock on wood, id like the stockers to alst at least another year or so and then I may start trying to do a stage 3 build. they have a 6 month warranty on the trans, and they replace the 1-2 syncros, all the seals, and they debur and replace the collars if necessary. no upgrade so heres hoping that everythings kosher when i get it. Stock the shifter feels like shit, imho. However, a short shifter definitely helps. The Frankenturbo's seem to be holding up these days and are a good route to go if on a "budget". Still pricey to do. Genuine BW k04's still command a premium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Hmm what do we have here! Ooooooo Full 6 speed swap kit this trans feels like its 5 feet long. thing is a monster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 With the trans out, be a good time for the "washer" mod. Get you more rear bias, if your into that sorta thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 With the trans out, be a good time for the "washer" mod. Get you more rear bias, if your into that sorta thing.Washer mod? please explain hah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Washer mod? please explain hah The 01e has a torsen diff with 2:1 bias. It can be removed and a different washer set inside it can be installed. Equals 4:1 bias like the rs4. Which will give you less understeer. JHM or Advanced Automotion will do it if you send in your diff and the diff comes out super easy. Link to get you started.https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/jhm-41-center-diff-upgrade-manual-trans-only-p-46.html?cPath=21_56_60_102_26 The washers are available or were on Audizine and few other Audi sites at one point. If you wanted to do yourself. The diff comes out super easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 The 01e has a torsen diff with 2:1 bias. It can be removed and a different washer set inside it can be installed. Equals 4:1 bias like the rs4. Which will give you less understeer. JHM or Advanced Automotion will do it if you send in your diff and the diff comes out super easy. Link to get you started.https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/jhm-41-center-diff-upgrade-manual-trans-only-p-46.html?cPath=21_56_60_102_26 The washers are available or were on Audizine and few other Audi sites at one point. If you wanted to do yourself. The diff comes out super easy.huh interesting. Mine won't see much aggressive driving, so I'll be OK with what I have. Its also a 99 model, so it has the T1 diff. not a big deal, but i wouldnt see the full benefit of that mod then it looks like. Youre a wealth of audi knowledge too arnt ya? hah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted December 11, 2015 Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 huh interesting. Mine won't see much aggressive driving, so I'll be OK with what I have. Its also a 99 model, so it has the T1 diff. not a big deal, but i wouldnt see the full benefit of that mod then it looks like. Youre a wealth of audi knowledge too arnt ya? hah Ahhh... well there ya go. Problem solved. I used to work on the b5 s4 platform a lot. I did it for the Benjamin's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 my weekend was eventful time to pump up the spare! We were traveling home from our family Christmas and were about 2 hours from home when the tire blew out. Mom was about 30 minutes behind us, and stopped to take a picture... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 DAYUM!!! That was a serious blow out!Was the tire dry rotted any there or do you think it was a manufacturing defect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 DAYUM!!! That was a serious blow out!Was the tire dry rotted any there or do you think it was a manufacturing defect? definitely a manufacturer defect. the tires were purchased in feb 2013, and have had two full winters on them. No summer driving, always stored indoors. the other 3 tires look perfect still, 50-60% tread still on them, i'll have to measure depth in a little bit here. They are Bridge Blizzak WS70's, they have a 5 year manufacturer defect warranty, so im dealing with our Toyota dealer (who ordered and installed them) to get it warrantied, but at this point, it may be in vain as I'll probably need 4 new tires, 1 or 2 new wont cut it with the AWD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Well getting 2 new tires free is still better than none! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Well getting 2 new tires free is still better than none!yea then i would only be forced to buy 2 more new! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 yeah that is definitely the downside to awd. i dealt with that too when i blew out a tire while back on the infiniti. thankfully they were close enough that i was able to get away with only needing to do a pair. sucks though Will for sure. good luck with getting them warrantied. i have the same tires now for the factory wheels so keep me posted on how the warranty claim goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1998CobraSVT Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 How do you like its performance in snow? Im moving shortly, lots of snow and hills in my future for winter months, will be adding some sort of awd vehicle to the driveway. 2 brands at the top of my list 1.Jeep 2.Audi. Talk me into buying an audi for snow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 ill be honest here, Subaru has a MUCH better AWD system than audi does. so if you want winter performance to the max, go that route, but you will lose creature comforts. with that being said, i would much rather have the audi because of the ride and the awd still works great! parts can get expensive for audis and fixing them does require more specialized tools than a jeep so thats something to keep in mind. either one would be an excellent choice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1998CobraSVT Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 ill be honest here, Subaru has a MUCH better AWD system than audi does. so if you want winter performance to the max, go that route, but you will lose creature comforts. with that being said, i would much rather have the audi because of the ride and the awd still works great! parts can get expensive for audis and fixing them does require more specialized tools than a jeep so thats something to keep in mind. either one would be an excellent choice! Wouldnt mind a Subaru, thats a great recommendation. Ive always liked everything about their boxer motors.Creature comforts are low on the "needs" list. Performance is whats most important on those hills. The only thing that crosses my mind when deciding between an awd sedan over a jeep is the suspension height differences at deep snow depths. Would a 2-4" lift on a jeep give it a major advantage in snow (like it does on trails) vs a sedan? But then in the spring and summer it would barely be used where the Subaru or Audi would be used all the time all seasons. Definitely something to think on, thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 the lifting of the jeep wouldnt really help unless you plan on driving through snow drifts higher than your hood. which at that point youre offroading and shouldnt even be considering anything else imho. if you get into the subaru market id look at foresters or outbacks as they sit higher than the impreza's and legacies, and have a ton more room. The outback and forester are probably close to the height of a grand cherokee. Theres also the Tribeca and Crosstrek but havnt had a ton of hands on with those cars. as for the audi's, you have the Q5, Q7, A6, and allroad models. those all sit decently high and really are tanks in their own right. just a little more on the expensive side when compared to the baru's and jeeps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1998CobraSVT Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 Lol at the snow higher then your hood. Nah, def not that high. Thanks for clearing that up. Good info man, will definitely keep it in mind while shopping around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 ill be honest here, Subaru has a MUCH better AWD system than audi does. so if you want winter performance to the max, go that route, but you will lose creature comforts. with that being said, i would much rather have the audi because of the ride and the awd still works great! parts can get expensive for audis and fixing them does require more specialized tools than a jeep so thats something to keep in mind. either one would be an excellent choice! Curious as to why you think the Subaru AWD is MUCH superior to Quattro? The modern true Quattro systems have not let me, friends or family down. I would stay away from the Haldex based systems (R32, 4motion, Audi TT.) If going Subaru, I would stay away from 2.5NA motors. HG issues. It's not a question of "will they" but more a question of "when will they" let go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1998CobraSVT Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 I would stay away from the Haldex based systems (R32, 4motion, Audi TT.) If going Subaru, I would stay away from 2.5NA motors. HG issues. It's not a question of "will they" but more a question of "when will they" let go. Ill keep this in mind 2 . Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 my car has basically an open diff front and rear. i coulda swore the suabru's at least had limited slip diffs up front and in back along with the viscous center. and just from riding and driving in legacies and wrx's over the years, they have way more control than my allroad, my friends a6 sedan, or my sisters passat fourmotion. maybe brand new is different idk lol but from my experience i would much rather drive a subie in the snow if I really had to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member fiveohwblow Posted December 31, 2015 Supporting Member Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 German over Jap /discussion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted April 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 ok i think i have everything now for the swap Flywheel bolts pressure plate bolts clutch disc wheel bearings pinch bolts trans fluid valve cover gaskets cam seals throwout bearing pilot bearing alignment sleeves SAI blockoff plates starter alternator spider hose motor mounts turbo gaskets short throw shifter found a boogered up hole for one of the shifter linkages, so Ill drill and tap that tonight. not sure what happened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 well this is where it starts.. my work area and where i left off. Doesnt seem like much, but just getting shit organized was time enough spent lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 got the front clip off last night. also removed the exhaust, driveshaft, and rear diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 I feel tired just looking at that pic lol. Certainly a lot of work ahead of you but the results will be worth it. Bonus: looks like you won't need to go far to take a dump while you work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted May 10, 2016 Moderators Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 1 hour ago, 95riosnake said: I feel tired just looking at that pic lol. Certainly a lot of work ahead of you but the results will be worth it. Bonus: looks like you won't need to go far to take a dump while you work Dumps are the worst when you're working on the car. I'm a 1030am kinda guy, so I try not to start getting to involved with the dirty work on the car until after that time lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 2 hours ago, 95riosnake said: I feel tired just looking at that pic lol. Certainly a lot of work ahead of you but the results will be worth it. Bonus: looks like you won't need to go far to take a dump while you work haha honestly have no idea why thats still around. it was removed during our remodel last summer and that stayed.... 43 minutes ago, Psychorugby said: Dumps are the worst when you're working on the car. I'm a 1030am kinda guy, so I try not to start getting to involved with the dirty work on the car until after that time lol. hahaha normally its the piss that kills me. hands are solid mucky oil, time to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Just need to get the cherry picker in there and shes ready to come out. Trans an all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) You are pulling it all out the front? With a hoist I found that just lifting body of the sub frame was easiest. Anywhich way.. glad to see progress... Edited May 16, 2016 by 410sn95 grammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) yea, it was actually super easy coming out the front. i didnt want to have to mess with the subframe and getting that all re-aligned afterwards. but anywho, its out Edited May 16, 2016 by Blackmage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 well, let us begin. cleaned out the hatch so i could put all the pieces staying with the car, in a safe spot dont froget to set up your work area! unclipped and disconnnected the washer nozzles to prep the hood for removal take this clipped on cover off to release the washer nozzle harness and line from the hood have someone help if you can, remove the 4 bolts holding the hinges to the hood, unclip the prop rod, and remove. 4 x 13mm nuts remove the battery cover and the rest of the cowl cover remove intake tube from bumper and intake box disconnect battery and tape up connections so they dont accidentally make it back to the battery terminals remove MAF and Y-pipe 3 x 10mm bolts remove the TCU after changing ECU softcoding and programming ABS module. remove 2 phillips screws and pull off kick panel on passenger side pull up sill plate cover (all clipped in) and then pull up the carpet and pull out the TCU box open up TCU box and remove TCU sending the ecu in for tuning. remove bolts holding cover on. (leave the back one in, and you can squeeze the ecu out. you will also need to unclip the metal bar going across the ecu 4 x 8mm bolts drill out the far left 2 tamper proof bolts if to get the ECU to slide out of the case jumping around a little bit, but I then moved to under the car. removed the O2 sensors 2 x 17mm started removing the exhaust at the mid pipe. 4 x 17mm nuts you can remove the hangers easily with a pry bar. just put the prybar behind the hanger and slowly force it off. the stock exhaust is pretty heavy, so have a helper or keep a jackstand under it. then removed the heat shields for the driveshaft 8 x 10mm loosened the D/S carrier nuts. i also put a pry bar in between the U-Joint on the D/S so I could loosen the driveshaft bolts without it spinning 2 x 13mm removing the rear D/S bolts 6 x 6mm allens moved up to the front to remove the d/s shield from the trans, and also the d/s to trans bolts 2 x T45 torx 6 x 6mm allen might take a little persuasion for the joints to pop out of the diff and trans take the two axle covers off. 3 bolts per side 6 x 6mm Allens then remove the rear axle to diff bolts. 6 per axle. 12 x M9 triple square remove the bolts holding the diff to the rear carrier 3 x 8mm Allen remove the 3 bolts holding the front left bracket to the diff 3 x 8mm allen diff is somewhat heavy with fluid still in it. I twisted the diff, so pass side was down and drivers side was up, and the axles popped out and diff came out quite easily then moved up to the front. i removed 12 bolts from each inner fender, drivers and passenger 24 x T20 Torx once you pull the inner fender back, you will need to take off two more t20 bolts. there are 4 bolts that appear to be holding the bumper to the supports, two will have large flat heads, leave those two, but remove the top and bottom ones, on each side of the car 4 x T20 Torx There are then 3 nuts per side holding the front bumper to the fenders 6 x 10mm remove the 3 lower front grill covers, they just pull straight off. Once those are removed there are two allen bolts that go UP into the bumper bar. 2 X 8mm Allen reach behind the fog lights and disconnect them With a strong hand, you should be able to pull just the bumper cover straight forward and off. Be careful, you still need to disconnect the washer fluid lines that supply the headlight sprayers. if your tank is full, itll spill a lot disconnect the ambient air temp sensor, and also remove the bolts holding the power steering cooler on. 1 x 10mm remove the 5 bolts holding the fan bracket on, and also the brackets for the A/C condensor 4 x 10mm 1 x T20 Torx the fan and p/s cooler should swing out of the way, along with the A/C condensor disconnect the horns on both sides, and also the sensor for the a/c line on the pass side disconnect the hood release cable. it just pushed towards the rear of the car and its off disconnect headlight harness from both sides remove cover from P/S reservoir, and then disconnect these three connectors remove the bolts holding the bumper supports to the frame rails 8 x T45 torx disconnect the sensor on the lower radiator hose, and also disconnect the lower radiator hose. disconnect the upper radiator hose remove the trans cooler lines. one per line in the radiator, and then one bracket near the bottom of the radiator 3 x 10mm there are 4 bolts on the top of the core support, between the headlight bolts and the fender. remove two on each side of the car. There are then 2 more bolts under the tip of each fender than need to be taken out. Once those 6 bolts are removed, the front core support and radiator can be removed 4 x T27 torx 2 x T27 torx everything off thus far Time to remove the bi-pipes on the front of the timing cover. 2 x 10mm hex There there are 4 hose clamps that need to be loosened 4 x 7mm hose clamps next to go was the snub mount 3 x 8mm allen then i removed the bolt holding the trani cooler lines to the trani cooler on the back of the drivers side intercooler. 1 x 6mm allen removed a trani cooler line bracket on the pass side of the motor. I also removed the 10mm bolt on the front of the motor holding the lines with the a/c lines. I then disconnected the trani lines where they bolted together under the alternator, just to give myself some extra space. 2 x 10mm hex Next comes the a/c compressor and lines. you will also need to remove the coolant hose that runs across the front of the engine and up past the oil filter housing. Also, remove the oil filter to clear the lines. Dont forget to unclip the connector on the compressor, and the one that goes through the lines and down to the top of the oil pan. 3 x 13mm Hex 1 x 17mm hex to release the belt tensioner top of the pan wrap up the lines and condenser off to the side so they do not get damaged. then i had access to remove the power steering line. then i disconnected the 3 fuel lines. made sure to take pics and mark where they went. I cut the one clamp and the other two were regular hose clamps. Took some force but they all came off moved down to the axles. removed axle covers from both sides. 6 x 6mm Allen Next was the 6 per side axle bolts. 12 x M9 triple square Next, remove the axle nuts 2 x 1 1/16" hex From there, you can remove both front axles with some persuasion. I am replacing my wheel bearings, so I had the pinch bolt out from up top, made it a little easier. next to go was the engine mount nuts 2 x 13mm hex its hidden in there, promise I had to drop the sway bar in order to get some good access at the nuts 4 x 13mm hex next up were the trans mounts 4 x 13mm hex moved back up to the front of the engine. out came the alternator 1 x 13mm hex 1 x 8mm Allen back of the alternator sported a 13mm nut for the power wire and single wire plug 1 x 13mm hex here we are at now next to go was the starter wire and single wire plug. route that wire off to the pass side of the motor and out of the way. there is also a ground strap on the left side of the motor, as seen in this pic 1 x 13mm nut hex 1 x 13mm hex bolt went to the top of the motor and disconnected the vacuum line connected at the firewall disconnected this vacuum line as well, on the drivers side, under the silver canister by the p/s reservoir (honestly no idea what it is haha) cut the clip of the vacuum hose right above it as well and pulled it off Next i realized i needed to pull the ecu box top off to get at all the connectors. you can sneak an 8mm socket with 1/4" ratchet in to get the back bolt and it pops up. Then remove all the connectors from inside. 1 x 8mm hex then find some goodies inside! remove this connector from the side of the master cylinder and fish it out with the ECU wires there are then 2 metric caps holding on the connectors to the firewall on the drivers side. remove those and the whole panel that has all the connectors. you should be able to put the whole ecu harness up onto the motor now. 2 x 10mm hex remove the battery hold down and battery 1 x 13mm hex remove the fabric protector from the heater hoses, and disconnect both heater hoses should look something like this now there is a single p/s line on the back of the motor you will need to disconnect. i got to mine as i was pulling the motor, but you could probably get to it now too. you can see it on the back of the motor with a white dot on it. you'll need a 19mm and a 17mm open end wrench i then removed the SAI pump, and hoses, you can see it missing here 5 x 5mm Allen lets get cleaned up and inside the car now to remove the wood bezel, grab it at the rear and pull straight up and towards the back of the car. As for the shift knob, put the car in neutral, push the silver collar down as far as it will go (i used a screw driver to break it free from the knob), and then pull the silver thumb button OUT and pull up with some good force and the knob will pop off. there are 4 tabs on the outside of the aluminum bezel, carefully open them up and take it off there are 4 more clips holding the circuit board to the base of the shifter, carefully undo those clips and then unclip the connector going to it there are 5 bolts to take out now. (the gold ones) 5 x 10mm hex with those out of the way, you can release the park safety cable by pushing it towards the passenger side with a screwdriver. remove the connector at the front of the shifter base also there are two white tabs per side that will need to be depressed now, (they are on top of one another) and the shifter box will go out the bottom of the car. Its cherry pickin time! there is a lifting point on the drivers side rear, right where the SAI pump was. the front one is on the pass side front head. start the lift! keep an eye out for all conenctors/wires/hoses that may be in the way. I used a jack with a piece of wood under the trans to get the trans mounts above their holes and to help move it forward until it cleared their mounts. you will need to feed the heater hoses through the bottom of the firewall as you move the engine/trans out oops, i missed two connectors on the transmission. that are under the drivers side axle. one is a normal PIA audi clip, and the other you need to twist 180 degrees counter clockwise to undo. now time to get some done on the motor/trans remove the heatshields on the downpipes 12 x 5mm Allen also remove the Downpipes on both sides. 8 x 17mm Hex (flange nuts) 2 x 13mm hex (springs for exhaust hangers) remove the heat shields from the trans mounts, and also the trans mounts 6 x 10mm hex (heat shield) 6 x 8mm Allen (mounts) remove the bolt holding the trans cooler lines on, and also remove the speed sensor connector. There are also a few more brackets holding the lines on going to the front of the engine. 1 x 13mm hex 1 x 5mm allen 2 x 10mm hex now time for the torque converter. locate the rubber grommet on the front of the bellhousing and pop it off. use a 24mm 12 point socket and breaker bar and turn the motor until you can see the TC bolts through the hole. 3 x T55 torx 1 x 24mm 12point Socket time to remove the trans. there is a connector hiding behind the oil return line on the top, get that! 1 x 10mm bolt. The next bolt is a nut a bolt right under it. 1 x 10mm hex 1 x 16mm hex (nut) 1 x 8mm allen (bolt) There is a bolt holding on the starter and threaded into the trans on the pass side. you can reach this from the front with a long extension. 1 x 8mm allen Three allens across the bottom on the front 3 x 8mm allen There are now 6 more bolts across the front. 6 x 16mm Hex before you take all the bolts are out, make sure both trans and engine are on the ground. the trans is a HEAVY SOB!! remove all the bolts, and then separate the combo clean up and take a break for the night. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 well that pasted in quite nicely lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Damn, talk about a thorough documentation lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 2 hours ago, 95riosnake said: Damn, talk about a thorough documentation lol. ya know, theres a ton of info on the audi out there, but there is only bits and pieces scattered about on how to do certain things. nothing on how to do the manual swap except, "pull, put this and this on, and be done!" so i wanted to document the whole process and help some people out, cuz this is all foreign to me hah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 always have to drain the blinker fluid.... surprisingly you could actually make the case to say that your car does have blinker fluid as it is used to clear off the headlight assembly. anal beads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 5 hours ago, Prokiller said: always have to drain the blinker fluid.... surprisingly you could actually make the case to say that your car does have blinker fluid as it is used to clear off the headlight assembly. anal beads? LOL little mice anal beads. they wanted a good time in their own dungeon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted May 18, 2016 Moderators Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 I'm tired just from reading that... Again. Nice job Will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 10 hours ago, Psychorugby said: I'm tired just from reading that... Again. Nice job Will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
