the motha frickin audi

[Blackmage]

so bear with me, i kinda jumped around on the project.

time to do the VC gaskets and intake manifold gaskets
so there are 2 charge pipes, one on each side of the motor going over the top of the valve cover.  the pipes are held in with O-rings, so they will slide right out.
2 x 10mm hex

I then removed the EGT sensors, and the SAI sensor, this is on the backside of the intake manifold on the passenger side.
2 x 10mm hex

Intake manifold will need to have the wiring harness removed prior to removal. Need to take off the bracket on the TB boot to get all of the wires loose.  You can pull the loom back on the Pass and Drivers side towards the rear of the engine and let them dangle.
2 x 8mm hex for the TB bracket

The intake manifold will have 17 bolts total, with one bolt on the drivers side front holding a sensor down.  Make sure to tape the intake ports up so you dont drop anything down them.
17 x 5mm Allen

Now we can hit the valve covers.  There is also one bolt on the front timing cover that needs to come out that is holding onto the valve cover.
16 x 10mm Hex  (8 per side)
1 x 5mm Allen

there are a ton of how-to's on the valve cover gasket replacement, so im just going to post some pics of it.
Cam chain tensioners
8 x T30 torx  (4 per)

Cam Sensor (Drivers side rear head)
2 x 10mm Hex

[Blackmage]

went for the starter removal, this is easy while the engine is out.

remove the intake pipe on passenger side turbo
1 x 7mm hex
2 x 5mm Allen

With the trans already removed, the starter should fall right out.

with that out, i took off the engine mounts.  was able to get these with ease using a 1/4 ratchet and deepwell 13mm socket.
2 x 13mm Hex

then moved on to removing the SAI crap. (pictures are of SAI parts removed)
6 x 5mm Allen  (3 on one side, 2 on the other)

Picked up some 034 block off plates. using the supplied hardware install them.
5 x 5mm Allen

i then removed the automatic flywheel
8 x 17mm hex

After the flywheel is removed, take off the spacer that was used.  You do not need this for the manual flywheel.  Mine came off with a twist, ive seen some people say it takes some heat.  Be careful, there is a seal behind it.

Make sure you have the right flywheel bolts, they should stick out about so far.  YOU NEED NEW ONES! ABSOLUTELY NEED NEW FLYWHEEL BOLTS!

I put in a new pilot bearing as well into the used flywheel. Then put the flywheel onto the crank and start some bolts.  The flywheel will only go on ONE way, it helps to have a second set of hands to rotate the flywheel as you put in a bolt.

Torque specs for the flywheel bolts are 44ft/lbs and then turn them 180 degrees.  Torque them down, mark the bolts, and then start turning.  I found it was easiest to do this by myself with the Cam lock bar in place.

Make sure you have the clutch in the correct orientation.  Nothing like putting it in backwards and having to pull the trans to flip it over.  (RS4 clutch and pressure plate)

 

[95riosnake]

Doing a hell of a job man!

 

Time to Techflex all the things

 

Kidding

[Blackmage]

2 hours ago, 95riosnake said:

Doing a hell of a job man!

 

Time to Techflex all the things

 

Kidding

ugh dont give me any ideas. this project has already gone way longer than I wanted haha

[Blackmage]

its a mess... an organized mess

I didn't want to spend the money on aftermarket downpipes, so i hollowed mine out for right now.

started throwing on the shifter linkage onto the trans

i then threw the spacer onto the motor.  The one i got from the 99 A6 was the same as the TIP one off my 03 allroad.  same part numbers and everything.  i used the one off the 99 just because it came with, although i think it would have worked with either

Made sure the new throw out bearing was in correctly and also that the slave cylinder was in correctly

with some help, bolt the trans up to the engine.  

make sure to use the manual trans mounts, and not the ones off the TIP

next was to lift up the motor and secure the rest of the trans bolts

as long as the engine was up, put on the drivers side engine mount

before the pass motor mount goes in, we need to put in the starter.  so remove the intake pipe from the turbo, then slide in the starter and mount it.

once the starter is in, put the intake tube back in, and then put the motor mount in

moved onto putting the trans mounts on

 

[Blackmage]

always hear about people flushing their heater cores, so perfect time to do it. didnt find much, but hey its something

leveled out the trans on the ground and began to fill it with fluid.  fill plug is on the drivers side, in front of the axle

make sure your drain plugs are tight.....

moved onto putting the downpipes on.   One of them broke at the flex pipe so I guess ill be getting it either welded up or getting some new DP's

forget what this sensor is, but make sure to plug it in.  its on the drivers side of the trans, almost up at the block. 

dont forget the speed sensor as well

make sure all your intake ports are clear of debris. even if you had tape over them, double and triple check.

put on the intake gaskets

place the intake down and secure it

I ended up making my own spider hose, and now was a good time to get it hooked up

threw the intake pipes on that go over the valve covers.  clean them up so not to damage the O-rings

run all of the engine harness back across the intake and plug everything back in

im going to deal with this reverse light later...

 

[Blackmage]

next i replaced some suspension bits.  these were Mahle HD tie rod ends.

as well as replaced brakes all the way around and new pinch bolts

solid shift mount came in from JHM

and ready to go back home

make sure to get the heater hoses under the firewall and then up and through it.  

get it far enough back, but still far enough forward so you can see the salve cylinder and bleeder.

dont forget to hook back up the power steering line

once you bleed the clutch you can move the engine the rest of the way back and start hooking stuff back up

the shifter is straight forward, install the 4 retaining nuts holding the box up to the body, 2 for the sound deadening, and then the trim and knob

oh so close...

 

[Blackmage]

in my infinite wisdom i assumed the A6 and allroad pedal brackets were the same.  WRONG.   the allroad has this notched area for the sensors, and the A6 has perfect circles.  What I needed was a 99 A6 brake sensor for a manual.  Then I needed to cut the harness from my current brake switch and rewire it to the A6 manual one.  nothing crazy, just a random hurdle to figure out.

shoulda caught it in my previous pics....

back under the hood for the pin #39 wire.
grab the bigger of the 2 ECU plugs, and pull the purple pin/rod out

The top part of the connector should slide out.  Its marked on the connector what pins are what, so find #39 and push it down into the slot.  You can see my red wire I used, 5th from the top.

I then crimped over the wire holders with a small screwdriver.  close it all back up and run this wire down past the connectors under the ECU and into the cabin.

the next couple steps seem to have a couple different ways to do it, but this is what I did.  wiring up the clutch safety switch.
find all of the relays under the drivers side dash and pull the 2X10mm nuts holding it up.

with both of them pulled down, remove relay #53. it is at the very top.

release the clips holding the connector in and push it backwards.  remove the Pin from the connector that has the brown/white wire.   

Add an extension onto this wire and then put it back into the relay connector. (tape off the old wire that ran into the relay connector) If you have the connector for the clutch switch, it should have the same wire as the one from the relay.  Solder those together.  Then run the other wire from the clutch switch connector to a ground.  youre done here.  (This clutch switch is the one that is on the back of the pedal, and has a metal bracket that it is connected to. )

Next i made a harness for the reverse lights, wrapped them in techflex and ran them into the cabin.  One line goes to 12v keyed ignition, and the other goes to a blue/red wire.  

kind of hard to show exactly whats going on here but ill do my best to draw it out.  
The ECU 39 wire goes to the clutch switch on the front of the clutch, i wired it up to the red/green wire on the clutch switch connector. 
The other wire from the clutch switch goes over to the brake switch. There are 4 wires on the brake switch, I tapped into the wire that has 12v with key on, and 0v with key off. 

Once all of that is done you should be set to start the car.  putting the driveshaft, rear diff, axles, exhaust, front clip, are all the same as the automatics and super straight forward.  I didn't run into any other quirks that are worth mentioning really.


 

[Prokiller]

so how is driving it now with the manual?

[Blackmage]

53 minutes ago, Prokiller said:

so how is driving it now with the manual?

pretty good. with the tune its pushing 16lbs of boost now, and rowing gears is so weird in the wagon. hah   im hoping adjusting the shifter linkage will help with it going into 2nd gear hard.  I also have a rattle up front over bumps, which i thought was the loose bumper, but i buttoned all of that up and its still there.  Didnt notice any loose suspension which makes me feel a little better. 

[Prokiller]

18 minutes ago, Blackmage said:

pretty good. with the tune its pushing 16lbs of boost now, and rowing gears is so weird in the wagon. hah   im hoping adjusting the shifter linkage will help with it going into 2nd gear hard.  I also have a rattle up front over bumps, which i thought was the loose bumper, but i buttoned all of that up and its still there.  Didnt notice any loose suspension which makes me feel a little better. 

it's always weird when you do something major like that.  you're more attuned to sounds and squeaks then ever before.  basically just looking for a problem that may not be there.

[Blackmage]

damnit, missed this post both on audizine and here.  one of the most important steps too lol

 

the clutch line install....

find this grommet under the brake booster, behind the rack and pinion, remove it.

it may be packed with crud on top

this is what the hardline looks like, and im holding it generally about how it will be installed.

you can try fishing the line up from the bottom and over to this grommet, but its kind of a PIA.  I ended up removing the lines from the master cylinder and then removing the brake booster and master as one unit to make this easier. You need to disconnect the pedals anyways from it, so it was only a couple extra bolts

to remove the brake reservoir, push down on the clip on the bottom of the reservoir, and then push/pull/tug/beat/swear/cuss the stupid thing to the passenger side and it will pop off of the master cylinder.  Oh, i also removed the 10mm bolt that helps align the reservoir.
1x 10mm Hex

remove the rod from the master cylinder and brake pedal from inside the car.  Try to keep the nut about where it is at or mark it somehow
1 x 19mm Hex
1 x 16mm Hex

now, you dont have to remove the nuts like i did, lesson learned.  just remove the torx bolts for the booster and MC and it comes out as one unit.  Twist it towards the drivers side and it should come up and out with some persuasion
2 x T45 Torx   (I had to use a vice grips on the one becase it was kinda tight on the bottom, but that was enough to break it loose and unthread with my fingers)
Brake lines are 11mm AND 12mm.   Make sure to use a flare wrench.

Back inside the car we can pull out the pedal assembly now. Make sure to undo the brake switch and gas pedal connectors, also pull the one bolt holding the pedals up to the steering column
1 x 5mm Allen

To make life easier I removed the bolt holding the steering shaft to the Rack and Pinion.  after removing the bolt and separating the two, the shaft can be pushed up into the steering column to give a ton more room to maneuver the pedals. 
1 x T55 torx

Pull the automatic assembly out. They look almost identical, except one thing.  The sensors for the A6 (left) have a perfect circle, while the Allroad assembly has a circle with reliefs cut on top and bottom.  I didnt notice this until after everything was installed.  I would recommend switching the pedals over to the Allroad assembly to avoid any pains going down the road.

now you can get a better idea of how the slave clinder hard line is supposed to be ran.  There is a second grommet right under the one that the hard line is pointing at (youll see it when youre in there) that needs to be removed also.

time to put the pedal assembly in.

here you can see the two holes where the grommets needed to be removed

and line connected

This threw me for a loop for a while.  Where in the F does it go??  

Ooooo half of it is already installed on the pedals, this is just a piece of hose up to the Brake fluid Reservoir

There should be a provision for the clutch master cylinder on the brake fluid reservoir, cut the end off and slide the line over it.

TA-DA!


 

[Blackmage]

allroad community is losing its mind over this video i posted haha.

 

 

[Steve-Oh]

This car is so lame.  Sell it already. 

 

[ttocs]

those blue insulated spade connectors your using are not water proof and will fail under the hood after some time.  They just corrode and rot away faster then you think they can.

[Blackmage]

On 2/3/2017 at 2:55 PM, ttocs said:

those blue insulated spade connectors your using are not water proof and will fail under the hood after some time.  They just corrode and rot away faster then you think they can.

there are no spade connectors under the hood, or exposed to the elements.  those are above the pedal assembly, inside the car.  

[Steve-Oh]

On 2/6/2017 at 8:45 AM, Blackmage said:

there are no spade connectors under the hood, or exposed to the elements.  those are above the pedal assembly, inside the car.  

 

What if your car is involved in a water gun fight with  the windows down?  How bow dah.  

[Blackmage]

20 hours ago, Steve-Oh said:

 

What if your car is involved in a water gun fight with  the windows down?  How bow dah.  

Cash me outside, how bou dah!

[Blackmage]

went ice drag racing with the stupid thing. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

aanndddd took first in my class haha.   4wd rubber tire class.  had a few subaru's, a 600hp srt8 jeep, few trucks.   only about half had snow tires on, the rest did absolutely miserable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i also picked up a few new parts for the allroad.  Got some rust free doors and finally got me new wheels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

kinda close to rubbing, im going to need a small spacer.

 

 

 

[95riosnake]

Ice drag racing sounds like a blast! Should have shown up with studded tires and did some sparky burnouts lol. Not even sure why anyone would bother showing up with all seasons...

 

Those wheels are going to look SICK! I always liked that wheel. And yes you definitely need probably a 1/4" spacer. You could get pebbles stuck in that gap now lol.

[Prokiller]

thats awesome Will!  was this your first time doing it?  and those wheels are going to look fantastic on there.

[Blackmage]

On 3/5/2018 at 5:19 AM, 95riosnake said:

Ice drag racing sounds like a blast! Should have shown up with studded tires and did some sparky burnouts lol. Not even sure why anyone would bother showing up with all seasons...

 

Those wheels are going to look SICK! I always liked that wheel. And yes you definitely need probably a 1/4" spacer. You could get pebbles stuck in that gap now lol.

 

so this group allows screws in tires only, which are still jut insane.  Theres a few guys that will actually pull both front wheels off the ground.. on ice.    Otherwise the local autocross clubs allow for tires that have bolts in them, which actually works even better than screws.  

 

 

 

 

On 3/5/2018 at 9:16 AM, Prokiller said:

thats awesome Will!  was this your first time doing it?  and those wheels are going to look fantastic on there.

 

I used to mess around with the old 95 gt on ice, so this wasn't super new.  I did some ice racing on autox courses on the lakes, but never did a drag event.  So it was a first actually competing! 

[RedTwilight]

And I here I am having always pulled all the screws and nails out of my tires.  Should've just left them in for the winter.

[410sn95]

k04 or F21 this thing already!

[Blackmage]

20 hours ago, 410sn95 said:

k04 or F21 this thing already!

but that takes all the monies! and i use all the monies on my house and other stupid stuffs

[Steve-Oh]

This is awesome Wilbur!  I feel like this would be such a fun event to compete in.  So many different variables to think about.  Dumb question... Do they use a sealant for the screws / bolts or do they self seal when they're screwed in?  

[Blackmage]

On 3/10/2018 at 9:39 AM, Steve-Oh said:

This is awesome Wilbur!  I feel like this would be such a fun event to compete in.  So many different variables to think about.  Dumb question... Do they use a sealant for the screws / bolts or do they self seal when they're screwed in?  

nah man thats a good question.  Most guys who bolt the tires just use window sealant as they bolt them together, fill it with air and it generally holds no problems.  The guys with screws, or for extra protection with the bolt tires, you lay some carpeting inside the tire, or something like a thick felt, and then use inner tubes.  Thats normally the most reliable way to go.

[Steve-Oh]

4 hours ago, Blackmage said:

nah man thats a good question.  Most guys who bolt the tires just use window sealant as they bolt them together, fill it with air and it generally holds no problems.  The guys with screws, or for extra protection with the bolt tires, you lay some carpeting inside the tire, or something like a thick felt, and then use inner tubes.  Thats normally the most reliable way to go.

 

Definitely did not think of the tube, that makes sense.  I guess with the sealant that you're using washers too so that helps seal against the rubber in addition to it.  That so awesome though, kind of jealous.  WOuld be a cool even to experience. 

[Blackmage]

MmMmmmmm wheelsssssss

 

 

 

 

 

 

then i had to spend some time and replace the upper control arms.  The air bag and strut assembly, along with the upper control arms, comes out of the car in like 15 minutes.  super simple to replace this shit.

 

 

 

 

 

these o-rings are notorious for going bad as well on the lower part of the air spring, so i took those out and cleaned them all up.

 

[smallblocksn95]

Not to derail or anything thing but have you dealt with the stereos in these much? My parents picked up a 2000 A6 4.2 quattro for an extra vehicle, and the only ones that work are the subs and the single tweeter in the driver b pillar. I know the front driver speaker is blown for a fact, but I get no sound out of the rest.

[410sn95]

On 4/12/2018 at 1:28 AM, smallblocksn95 said:

Not to derail or anything thing but have you dealt with the stereos in these much? My parents picked up a 2000 A6 4.2 quattro for an extra vehicle, and the only ones that work are the subs and the single tweeter in the driver b pillar. I know the front driver speaker is blown for a fact, but I get no sound out of the rest.

 

If you have a Bose system in the car.  Be aware that the speakers are 2ohm.

[Blackmage]

On 4/12/2018 at 3:28 AM, smallblocksn95 said:

Not to derail or anything thing but have you dealt with the stereos in these much? My parents picked up a 2000 A6 4.2 quattro for an extra vehicle, and the only ones that work are the subs and the single tweeter in the driver b pillar. I know the front driver speaker is blown for a fact, but I get no sound out of the rest.

i really havnt too much.  I know theres two amps in my car, maybe check to see if that does as well?  One of the amps might be failing.

[smallblocksn95]

I’ll check it out. What they call a sub in this thing is a joke 

[Blackmage]

hmm, i think mine is only a 6 or 8" sub, but it hits fairly well for what it is.  No complaints here from a factory system

[Dalamar]

Dude, Nice work BlackMagic!  I like the all road, i'm a lil to tall to fit.  having 2 audi's myself, I really like driving them.

Manual Conversion, that's amazing.  looks like a lot of work.  was it worth it?

also love the S wheel, looks good on there 😊

 

I am about to pull the trigger on some items from 034 for mine.

may need you to come install em! 

[Blackmage]

On 6/6/2019 at 2:13 PM, Dalamar said:

Dude, Nice work BlackMagic!  I like the all road, i'm a lil to tall to fit.  having 2 audi's myself, I really like driving them.

Manual Conversion, that's amazing.  looks like a lot of work.  was it worth it?

also love the S wheel, looks good on there 😊

 

I am about to pull the trigger on some items from 034 for mine.

may need you to come install em! 

Too tall for the allroad?  You must have sit in the A4 newer version, with the seats all the way back theres gotta bea headroom for a 7' tall person lol

manual conversion was the best thing i could have done to this car.  Its a big car, but man does the manual make a difference in the winter over the auto. 

 

Just commented over on your audi thread, thing turned out sick!