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Blackmage

the motha frickin audi

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so bear with me, i kinda jumped around on the project.

time to do the VC gaskets and intake manifold gaskets
so there are 2 charge pipes, one on each side of the motor going over the top of the valve cover.  the pipes are held in with O-rings, so they will slide right out.
2 x 10mm hex
F57CF87B-911A-4D2F-8CA9-0287E25E24C4_zps
4A59F0A7-0722-4260-B744-C4F413BE1BCB_zps
F5F1CF88-9393-4058-AF1C-69F2C016DD5A_zps


I then removed the EGT sensors, and the SAI sensor, this is on the backside of the intake manifold on the passenger side.
2 x 10mm hex

Intake manifold will need to have the wiring harness removed prior to removal. Need to take off the bracket on the TB boot to get all of the wires loose.  You can pull the loom back on the Pass and Drivers side towards the rear of the engine and let them dangle.
2 x 8mm hex for the TB bracket
C7CF72D6-EEB7-465B-AE88-5400AB80C6D1_zps


The intake manifold will have 17 bolts total, with one bolt on the drivers side front holding a sensor down.  Make sure to tape the intake ports up so you dont drop anything down them.
17 x 5mm Allen
516BB3E3-1271-4376-BA7B-3CDC92D48777_zps
94C821FD-2D1C-445C-860D-AB2705743FBC_zps


Now we can hit the valve covers.  There is also one bolt on the front timing cover that needs to come out that is holding onto the valve cover.
16 x 10mm Hex  (8 per side)
1 x 5mm Allen
7ADBC42C-A23B-49C9-BE85-0E5FAF765AE8_zps


there are a ton of how-to's on the valve cover gasket replacement, so im just going to post some pics of it.
Cam chain tensioners
8 x T30 torx  (4 per)

Cam Sensor (Drivers side rear head)
2 x 10mm Hex

89DBA43A-1FF6-44BA-870C-DE5714AF378C_zps
2F7D2CF2-BEF0-4F4A-AD7C-CD8EEC1E5CB7_zps
6F0212D7-9618-4DD7-B694-890F6F3DED62_zps
CE185134-2850-4212-985A-29F2CE2C509D_zps
FEA20209-6C5E-47E5-BEE7-E3D4B87C5009_zps

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went for the starter removal, this is easy while the engine is out.

remove the intake pipe on passenger side turbo
1 x 7mm hex
2 x 5mm Allen
67961FA2-D708-451C-B0E8-DA6A3F79B9D0_zps

With the trans already removed, the starter should fall right out.
545F6BF5-228D-4FF0-BC18-1A3B9C7C857A_zps
E995346B-C1B2-4319-8818-151646450E74_zps


with that out, i took off the engine mounts.  was able to get these with ease using a 1/4 ratchet and deepwell 13mm socket.
2 x 13mm Hex
3591C83B-5BD2-44E0-866D-286AF3293D97_zps


then moved on to removing the SAI crap. (pictures are of SAI parts removed)
6 x 5mm Allen  (3 on one side, 2 on the other)
A67BB704-9F67-4D88-A281-DBF392480232_zps
F71AA396-8F73-40FF-ACBA-F752B81450FF_zps


Picked up some 034 block off plates. using the supplied hardware install them.
5 x 5mm Allen
46692B81-7C84-4E5B-A173-2746AD7713E4_zps
DBE7D4EB-380D-46E6-BC90-FE25E3F0C49A_zps
3F36CB5D-A348-4881-BEBC-FEAC8D6F9ED8_zps
49FD719C-48F0-4059-BDDE-BA81DFA2BB69_zps


i then removed the automatic flywheel
8 x 17mm hex

After the flywheel is removed, take off the spacer that was used.  You do not need this for the manual flywheel.  Mine came off with a twist, ive seen some people say it takes some heat.  Be careful, there is a seal behind it.
6A139860-C5A9-4F0D-A2A4-9A00153E33FF_zps
282408AB-CB8E-46DD-AC98-61DD77A80584_zps


Make sure you have the right flywheel bolts, they should stick out about so far.  YOU NEED NEW ONES! ABSOLUTELY NEED NEW FLYWHEEL BOLTS!
3928DD0C-CD01-4BDA-93A1-095AF63952FF_zps


I put in a new pilot bearing as well into the used flywheel. Then put the flywheel onto the crank and start some bolts.  The flywheel will only go on ONE way, it helps to have a second set of hands to rotate the flywheel as you put in a bolt.
721E3B19-B3D9-4AA4-B937-C62542B9D5C9_zps


Torque specs for the flywheel bolts are 44ft/lbs and then turn them 180 degrees.  Torque them down, mark the bolts, and then start turning.  I found it was easiest to do this by myself with the Cam lock bar in place.
721E3B19-B3D9-4AA4-B937-C62542B9D5C9_zps


Make sure you have the clutch in the correct orientation.  Nothing like putting it in backwards and having to pull the trans to flip it over.  (RS4 clutch and pressure plate)
914E20D0-A2D1-4AC8-A786-CE782E7E5021_zps
F1B536AA-0B86-4A93-9AA8-967EECAFFDB3_zps
AEBCAF42-7AF9-4969-A974-31DF6BE930D0_zps
978B7686-CC37-495C-8775-417A9FC3B040_zps


 

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2 hours ago, 95riosnake said:

Doing a hell of a job man!

 

Time to Techflex all the things ;)

 

Kidding

ugh dont give me any ideas. this project has already gone way longer than I wanted haha

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its a mess... an organized mess

EE21F396-DCD3-4F9A-A636-FD803D94A66D_zps

I didn't want to spend the money on aftermarket downpipes, so i hollowed mine out for right now.
620FA4AD-9D4C-47EF-857C-84E9957C7E43_zps
0EBE4406-76DA-494C-B85E-CF51AB62A19E_zps
C61E026E-2D63-4530-96FA-6EC622097A94_zps

started throwing on the shifter linkage onto the trans
32D444B9-2DF4-42B1-9BF2-C2ACA367BF40_zps
0593BF83-F791-40AD-A2C8-AFCC94F93800_zps
78EF0457-09A4-4F6F-9A8A-79316F3E0206_zps

i then threw the spacer onto the motor.  The one i got from the 99 A6 was the same as the TIP one off my 03 allroad.  same part numbers and everything.  i used the one off the 99 just because it came with, although i think it would have worked with either
8E1A4DB8-4D42-4F5A-B38B-411FABCE8E99_zps


Made sure the new throw out bearing was in correctly and also that the slave cylinder was in correctly
1D42A430-6219-46DC-A85A-3F8455F2EA9E_zps


with some help, bolt the trans up to the engine.  
5B715BD1-43A5-49FB-BAA2-91569EC0FE75_zps


make sure to use the manual trans mounts, and not the ones off the TIP
1E1EC795-136E-4195-B25E-50CC061D17D2_zps
A3D68C95-7425-4427-A4F7-40239EFF9A27_zps
C78D4885-E323-44DD-9136-837A601F1300_zps

next was to lift up the motor and secure the rest of the trans bolts
CEBBF59E-5CCF-4E0D-A315-A35DCD29871C_zps
0E3925F1-D824-4DA2-A518-5415BD8D9FDC_zps

as long as the engine was up, put on the drivers side engine mount
37341273-4F41-4396-8A22-275D0389E6C5_zps

before the pass motor mount goes in, we need to put in the starter.  so remove the intake pipe from the turbo, then slide in the starter and mount it.
BB9C14E9-2469-4312-A3A3-E9E28DD0800E_zps
9DC53B12-E333-4211-8CDA-DFB4CA4326FB_zps


once the starter is in, put the intake tube back in, and then put the motor mount in
0554F32A-ADEE-400F-AC4F-0E12BEE43BB4_zps

moved onto putting the trans mounts on
20706668-6B97-4C53-83D5-8726FD4865C0_zps


 

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always hear about people flushing their heater cores, so perfect time to do it. didnt find much, but hey its something
8106298B-9AC3-4650-B0F1-23885953CB4F_zps
AF630550-B0A0-4340-959B-E0F87299F851_zps


leveled out the trans on the ground and began to fill it with fluid.  fill plug is on the drivers side, in front of the axle
677D89A5-A01F-46F0-AA59-D087711BC910_zps


make sure your drain plugs are tight.....
E069F2D2-6C54-42E1-B963-F7D62D24DF5B_zps
CC0BAEF0-481A-4B19-9CE1-B24AC3C16484_zps


moved onto putting the downpipes on.   One of them broke at the flex pipe so I guess ill be getting it either welded up or getting some new DP's
E0865401-D461-4E2F-9EA7-C1E33625E246_zps
02CFF88C-3360-4089-86D4-56F23D8E09BF_zps


forget what this sensor is, but make sure to plug it in.  its on the drivers side of the trans, almost up at the block. 
E1318BA2-F8A3-4413-9D68-B1F1B206AA74_zps


dont forget the speed sensor as well
FD118A05-8C60-4B45-8288-71792DB676E1_zps

make sure all your intake ports are clear of debris. even if you had tape over them, double and triple check.
DD044894-B569-4A24-B849-3A50437A5078_zps


put on the intake gaskets
516BB3E3-1271-4376-BA7B-3CDC92D48777_zps

place the intake down and secure it
C7CF72D6-EEB7-465B-AE88-5400AB80C6D1_zps


I ended up making my own spider hose, and now was a good time to get it hooked up
AA4D3048-09DF-4017-9ADB-8DB89C184F7D_zps
31175A74-CF9B-4468-962F-9C4971ADE252_zps


threw the intake pipes on that go over the valve covers.  clean them up so not to damage the O-rings
4A59F0A7-0722-4260-B744-C4F413BE1BCB_zps
F57CF87B-911A-4D2F-8CA9-0287E25E24C4_zps
9B0C246D-EC01-431B-B8B6-9CA0A9DE880C_zps


run all of the engine harness back across the intake and plug everything back in
A8FECC25-DFF1-48AA-B162-3E0D9BE3885A_zps
9B560EBD-FD55-4E6C-A0C5-5B2571D68E36_zps


im going to deal with this reverse light later...
BD0FA99D-016E-4A3E-8DF3-CDE4CD23F6B8_zps


 

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next i replaced some suspension bits.  these were Mahle HD tie rod ends.
06634F49-4482-4475-AD6F-64BE45DE6354_zps


as well as replaced brakes all the way around and new pinch bolts
8BB7931D-D0AA-4485-AA48-350E1C1175A8_zps
22DAC432-5052-455A-8BD5-19356056516A_zps


solid shift mount came in from JHM
828603C9-2676-4C25-AD32-F26A3E884329_zps

and ready to go back home
D9C1964E-69D4-4FF3-AE7D-337D84FE0135_zps
5EE81CF9-F970-481B-9A13-55D21E3F91B7_zps
7586B275-EE35-432F-8A77-50248852E1D6_zps


make sure to get the heater hoses under the firewall and then up and through it.  
7E4600BC-B5E7-4E10-8591-353553893466_zps
198B90BD-A82B-4C87-A29F-04EDBEBD12F6_zps
EEC764C1-FB8C-410E-A999-90B5FE877164_zps


get it far enough back, but still far enough forward so you can see the salve cylinder and bleeder.
D656C6E4-5CD8-4DF5-8405-E4089A300470_zps


dont forget to hook back up the power steering line
1C965A6F-65DB-43B7-A1C5-B7829CA5946A_zps


once you bleed the clutch you can move the engine the rest of the way back and start hooking stuff back up
2C09D11D-9684-40B6-B6FE-9C350F048939_zps
111D9C97-0384-484C-95AE-9EEAFE40E0D6_zps
B3538180-40BA-448B-99CF-D66008615B90_zps
27E667F6-9A06-45C0-B32C-8AF830D80501_zps


the shifter is straight forward, install the 4 retaining nuts holding the box up to the body, 2 for the sound deadening, and then the trim and knob
0FF86418-E324-486B-9B1B-4BCDD911C114_zps


oh so close...
A4814A09-6B6A-4EDD-97BD-4C9314C0E6FD_zps


 

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in my infinite wisdom i assumed the A6 and allroad pedal brackets were the same.  WRONG. :(   the allroad has this notched area for the sensors, and the A6 has perfect circles.  What I needed was a 99 A6 brake sensor for a manual.  Then I needed to cut the harness from my current brake switch and rewire it to the A6 manual one.  nothing crazy, just a random hurdle to figure out.
77119590-5B9A-43A5-8C12-F69D5915EFAA_zps

shoulda caught it in my previous pics....
FE26DAC8-70FF-4008-8385-E6CD40003387_zps


back under the hood for the pin #39 wire.
grab the bigger of the 2 ECU plugs, and pull the purple pin/rod out
4DCF0B0D-7140-40F9-A28B-051537249B32_zps


The top part of the connector should slide out.  Its marked on the connector what pins are what, so find #39 and push it down into the slot.  You can see my red wire I used, 5th from the top.
4FD0AEEF-DE7B-491C-8227-0DA8449183A3_zps

I then crimped over the wire holders with a small screwdriver.  close it all back up and run this wire down past the connectors under the ECU and into the cabin.
97212C77-A09E-495E-BD12-AA2385FE81E0_zps

the next couple steps seem to have a couple different ways to do it, but this is what I did.  wiring up the clutch safety switch.
find all of the relays under the drivers side dash and pull the 2X10mm nuts holding it up.
065421E6-7518-467D-8CB8-3E28BA6D05C9_zps


with both of them pulled down, remove relay #53. it is at the very top.
785C7B20-C205-418A-8C8C-3E39E20F9C5E_zps


release the clips holding the connector in and push it backwards.  remove the Pin from the connector that has the brown/white wire.   
0040F24D-4EFF-47FD-B4FC-C9D693017C12_zps

Add an extension onto this wire and then put it back into the relay connector. (tape off the old wire that ran into the relay connector) If you have the connector for the clutch switch, it should have the same wire as the one from the relay.  Solder those together.  Then run the other wire from the clutch switch connector to a ground.  youre done here.  (This clutch switch is the one that is on the back of the pedal, and has a metal bracket that it is connected to. )
B7F76CEA-E3E4-44BC-B897-CB57B4A0C2DC_zps


Next i made a harness for the reverse lights, wrapped them in techflex and ran them into the cabin.  One line goes to 12v keyed ignition, and the other goes to a blue/red wire.  
9B96021B-FAA7-4EA1-A813-37878A247ADB_zps
CD084E74-D8CF-48F1-8539-4A07024C1D90_zps
I1kS5RD_zpsctm6q5ik.jpg

kind of hard to show exactly whats going on here but ill do my best to draw it out.  
The ECU 39 wire goes to the clutch switch on the front of the clutch, i wired it up to the red/green wire on the clutch switch connector. 
The other wire from the clutch switch goes over to the brake switch. There are 4 wires on the brake switch, I tapped into the wire that has 12v with key on, and 0v with key off. 
09E60E39-E0CB-4EC0-A6E2-E22CDE6F015F_zps
A78458A5-C190-4A29-B400-83B444B51E72_zps

Once all of that is done you should be set to start the car.  putting the driveshaft, rear diff, axles, exhaust, front clip, are all the same as the automatics and super straight forward.  I didn't run into any other quirks that are worth mentioning really.
CA9803E4-0157-4AE5-B5D6-4E0F7F10879F_zps
02B26B6B-D2CD-4BBC-9CD7-1FC15FF4A9AB_zps
 

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53 minutes ago, Prokiller said:

so how is driving it now with the manual?

pretty good. with the tune its pushing 16lbs of boost now, and rowing gears is so weird in the wagon. hah   im hoping adjusting the shifter linkage will help with it going into 2nd gear hard.  I also have a rattle up front over bumps, which i thought was the loose bumper, but i buttoned all of that up and its still there.  Didnt notice any loose suspension which makes me feel a little better. 

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18 minutes ago, Blackmage said:

pretty good. with the tune its pushing 16lbs of boost now, and rowing gears is so weird in the wagon. hah   im hoping adjusting the shifter linkage will help with it going into 2nd gear hard.  I also have a rattle up front over bumps, which i thought was the loose bumper, but i buttoned all of that up and its still there.  Didnt notice any loose suspension which makes me feel a little better. 

it's always weird when you do something major like that.  you're more attuned to sounds and squeaks then ever before.  basically just looking for a problem that may not be there.

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damnit, missed this post both on audizine and here.  one of the most important steps too lol

 

the clutch line install....

find this grommet under the brake booster, behind the rack and pinion, remove it.
F54021BB-D462-4CCD-A2B8-3E42E447D18B_zps

it may be packed with crud on top
0933FE32-FF5B-4116-8D16-6BE9ED92B2C7_zps
6F758441-A7E0-4097-B0AB-B56A87045B38_zps


this is what the hardline looks like, and im holding it generally about how it will be installed.
F16588CF-28E8-4AEC-8BD0-4B2BA84F186A_zps


you can try fishing the line up from the bottom and over to this grommet, but its kind of a PIA.  I ended up removing the lines from the master cylinder and then removing the brake booster and master as one unit to make this easier. You need to disconnect the pedals anyways from it, so it was only a couple extra bolts
A804F28D-4119-4E5F-A6E0-152A01335177_zps
58CDC762-B7F0-4E99-8F6A-1631C8D0E014_zps


to remove the brake reservoir, push down on the clip on the bottom of the reservoir, and then push/pull/tug/beat/swear/cuss the stupid thing to the passenger side and it will pop off of the master cylinder.  Oh, i also removed the 10mm bolt that helps align the reservoir.
1x 10mm Hex
6BB35FE3-20C5-4DE0-9804-D1421A59AF22_zps


remove the rod from the master cylinder and brake pedal from inside the car.  Try to keep the nut about where it is at or mark it somehow
1 x 19mm Hex
1 x 16mm Hex
8EB96CC4-E7EE-43C2-A0E9-DB45C1DC36FD_zps


now, you dont have to remove the nuts like i did, lesson learned.  just remove the torx bolts for the booster and MC and it comes out as one unit.  Twist it towards the drivers side and it should come up and out with some persuasion
2 x T45 Torx   (I had to use a vice grips on the one becase it was kinda tight on the bottom, but that was enough to break it loose and unthread with my fingers)
Brake lines are 11mm AND 12mm.   Make sure to use a flare wrench.
8154D9EE-9AAF-43FC-84C6-562CFFA6BC77_zps
C14E9C7D-7AFF-4149-8C85-3D8B65CFA9A6_zps
D7B3A7FC-B41C-4219-91DA-DB518653710F_zps


Back inside the car we can pull out the pedal assembly now. Make sure to undo the brake switch and gas pedal connectors, also pull the one bolt holding the pedals up to the steering column
1 x 5mm Allen
B07C28FA-4A3D-4031-8FDA-8679A6B1F986_zps


To make life easier I removed the bolt holding the steering shaft to the Rack and Pinion.  after removing the bolt and separating the two, the shaft can be pushed up into the steering column to give a ton more room to maneuver the pedals. 
1 x T55 torx
2DBBD829-9DD6-458C-B0F6-0561350C2A53_zps
C802DCA1-D599-4C0A-94A7-BB3D6D2EF6D7_zps


Pull the automatic assembly out. They look almost identical, except one thing.  The sensors for the A6 (left) have a perfect circle, while the Allroad assembly has a circle with reliefs cut on top and bottom.  I didnt notice this until after everything was installed.  I would recommend switching the pedals over to the Allroad assembly to avoid any pains going down the road.
FE26DAC8-70FF-4008-8385-E6CD40003387_zps


now you can get a better idea of how the slave clinder hard line is supposed to be ran.  There is a second grommet right under the one that the hard line is pointing at (youll see it when youre in there) that needs to be removed also.
2E2B9C2D-FFDC-4DB0-BF30-2C11AEA03379_zps


time to put the pedal assembly in.
86264A27-A2D1-44BE-AAA7-9FD74C06940B_zps


here you can see the two holes where the grommets needed to be removed
DCB512FB-1CB4-40D1-BE86-F4C6245DDF91_zps

and line connected
91D0CD03-F108-4AC7-9AAC-FA7A01055A1B_zps


This threw me for a loop for a while.  Where in the F does it go??  
53892C62-73E7-4C9E-97AA-A83D263C475E_zps


Ooooo half of it is already installed on the pedals, this is just a piece of hose up to the Brake fluid Reservoir
F44C96BD-7258-4C7B-AB34-5160B29BDFD9_zps
8D4EAF57-99A5-4922-8767-872627CE3232_zps
A386E7A2-E2B0-4632-B558-CD0EF965CAFF_zps
56A272C3-529E-4482-A0D3-A2C9977B95A9_zps
B3862EAB-4608-472D-9DBC-92C5A2E3FDFB_zps


There should be a provision for the clutch master cylinder on the brake fluid reservoir, cut the end off and slide the line over it.
6F0A8A41-223E-4FE0-BCBC-12D6C273C60B_zps


TA-DA!
4586C107-EC4B-4F1E-9497-816112DF495A_zps
46B482F3-C704-420D-9E4A-73E0EAD95ECF_zps
 

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those blue insulated spade connectors your using are not water proof and will fail under the hood after some time.  They just corrode and rot away faster then you think they can.

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On 2/3/2017 at 2:55 PM, ttocs said:

those blue insulated spade connectors your using are not water proof and will fail under the hood after some time.  They just corrode and rot away faster then you think they can.

there are no spade connectors under the hood, or exposed to the elements.  those are above the pedal assembly, inside the car.  

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On 2/6/2017 at 8:45 AM, Blackmage said:

there are no spade connectors under the hood, or exposed to the elements.  those are above the pedal assembly, inside the car.  

 

What if your car is involved in a water gun fight with  the windows down?  How bow dah.  

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20 hours ago, Steve-Oh said:

 

What if your car is involved in a water gun fight with  the windows down?  How bow dah.  

Cash me outside, how bou dah!

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went ice drag racing with the stupid thing. 

 

CD56B0F1-2D41-4816-85E8-98C1CB5D74EA_zps

64B87C78-45F2-4D1B-B773-1B47B629346D_zps

 

 

 

 

 

aanndddd took first in my class haha.   4wd rubber tire class.  had a few subaru's, a 600hp srt8 jeep, few trucks.   only about half had snow tires on, the rest did absolutely miserable.

 

303B9C88-7143-4084-A6B0-C03CBB2093DB_zps

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i also picked up a few new parts for the allroad.  Got some rust free doors and finally got me new wheels.

 

30D0CA4E-DCD8-459C-B306-F6F39A341770_zps

 

E18255C5-699B-4C1B-ABCF-4067A305E26B_zps

 

 

 

 

 

kinda close to rubbing, im going to need a small spacer.

 

47DF8491-7E0A-4A0E-8AE0-74C59FC114DB_zps

 

 

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Ice drag racing sounds like a blast! Should have shown up with studded tires and did some sparky burnouts lol. Not even sure why anyone would bother showing up with all seasons...

 

Those wheels are going to look SICK! I always liked that wheel. And yes you definitely need probably a 1/4" spacer. You could get pebbles stuck in that gap now lol.

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thats awesome Will!  was this your first time doing it?  and those wheels are going to look fantastic on there.

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On 3/5/2018 at 5:19 AM, 95riosnake said:

Ice drag racing sounds like a blast! Should have shown up with studded tires and did some sparky burnouts lol. Not even sure why anyone would bother showing up with all seasons...

 

Those wheels are going to look SICK! I always liked that wheel. And yes you definitely need probably a 1/4" spacer. You could get pebbles stuck in that gap now lol.

 

so this group allows screws in tires only, which are still jut insane.  Theres a few guys that will actually pull both front wheels off the ground.. on ice.    Otherwise the local autocross clubs allow for tires that have bolts in them, which actually works even better than screws.  

2869EFFD-76B6-439E-882B-C0BDBC3FE0BF_zps

82BB825C-2E62-4C1C-822C-33E200A9AD77_zps

 

05CA15A3-34CA-4FAE-A537-FDCA68276F7A_zps

84414456-47F7-4F5F-902C-C65C4008D134_zps

 

825E2F55-100A-4114-9BBC-475F177C8214_zps

 

 

On 3/5/2018 at 9:16 AM, Prokiller said:

thats awesome Will!  was this your first time doing it?  and those wheels are going to look fantastic on there.

 

I used to mess around with the old 95 gt on ice, so this wasn't super new.  I did some ice racing on autox courses on the lakes, but never did a drag event.  So it was a first actually competing! 

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And I here I am having always pulled all the screws and nails out of my tires.  Should've just left them in for the winter.

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20 hours ago, 410sn95 said:

k04 or F21 this thing already!

but that takes all the monies! and i use all the monies on my house and other stupid stuffs

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This is awesome Wilbur!  I feel like this would be such a fun event to compete in.  So many different variables to think about.  Dumb question... Do they use a sealant for the screws / bolts or do they self seal when they're screwed in?  

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On 3/10/2018 at 9:39 AM, Steve-Oh said:

This is awesome Wilbur!  I feel like this would be such a fun event to compete in.  So many different variables to think about.  Dumb question... Do they use a sealant for the screws / bolts or do they self seal when they're screwed in?  

nah man thats a good question.  Most guys who bolt the tires just use window sealant as they bolt them together, fill it with air and it generally holds no problems.  The guys with screws, or for extra protection with the bolt tires, you lay some carpeting inside the tire, or something like a thick felt, and then use inner tubes.  Thats normally the most reliable way to go.

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4 hours ago, Blackmage said:

nah man thats a good question.  Most guys who bolt the tires just use window sealant as they bolt them together, fill it with air and it generally holds no problems.  The guys with screws, or for extra protection with the bolt tires, you lay some carpeting inside the tire, or something like a thick felt, and then use inner tubes.  Thats normally the most reliable way to go.

 

Definitely did not think of the tube, that makes sense.  I guess with the sealant that you're using washers too so that helps seal against the rubber in addition to it.  That so awesome though, kind of jealous.  WOuld be a cool even to experience. 

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MmMmmmmm wheelsssssss

 

 

5AB39CBE-087B-4388-A807-F9872B521D1C_zps

198116FB-F4F3-4764-92AB-AD3C49B0FAE5_zps

DF4C19A9-EBF0-4A11-84FC-81C371A42C42_zps

6ED94EC4-B296-489B-89F7-B4A11B28711D_zps

 

 

 

 

then i had to spend some time and replace the upper control arms.  The air bag and strut assembly, along with the upper control arms, comes out of the car in like 15 minutes.  super simple to replace this shit.

 

 

 

6B69A000-C137-4652-AA4D-8B701C550E7C_zps

 

 

these o-rings are notorious for going bad as well on the lower part of the air spring, so i took those out and cleaned them all up.

AA045405-1DB2-4088-A4EB-333A147ADE0F_zps

 

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Not to derail or anything thing but have you dealt with the stereos in these much? My parents picked up a 2000 A6 4.2 quattro for an extra vehicle, and the only ones that work are the subs and the single tweeter in the driver b pillar. I know the front driver speaker is blown for a fact, but I get no sound out of the rest.

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On 4/12/2018 at 1:28 AM, smallblocksn95 said:

Not to derail or anything thing but have you dealt with the stereos in these much? My parents picked up a 2000 A6 4.2 quattro for an extra vehicle, and the only ones that work are the subs and the single tweeter in the driver b pillar. I know the front driver speaker is blown for a fact, but I get no sound out of the rest.

 

If you have a Bose system in the car.  Be aware that the speakers are 2ohm.

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On 4/12/2018 at 3:28 AM, smallblocksn95 said:

Not to derail or anything thing but have you dealt with the stereos in these much? My parents picked up a 2000 A6 4.2 quattro for an extra vehicle, and the only ones that work are the subs and the single tweeter in the driver b pillar. I know the front driver speaker is blown for a fact, but I get no sound out of the rest.

i really havnt too much.  I know theres two amps in my car, maybe check to see if that does as well?  One of the amps might be failing.

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hmm, i think mine is only a 6 or 8" sub, but it hits fairly well for what it is.  No complaints here from a factory system

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My genesis has an 8” sub from the factory in the rear deck. I’ll admit that it’s quite surprising. 

 

Havent seen even too many vehicles with smaller factory subs that out out much. 

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