ReplicaR Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Thanks guys. Just ordered Stage 8 locking bolts for the headers. Figured, might as well. I'm already pretty deep into it, 50 dollars does not make a lot of difference at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Another small update. Checked the weight last night. As it sits right now with battery in the front and stock engine, I'm at 3420 lbs and 57/43 weight distribution. This was measured with full tank of fuel. It will be nice to see where the weight will be once the motor is in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I didn't realize our cars were THAT front heavy. Geez. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 It's an complete cast iron engine that sits well in front of the front wheels. Packaging on these cars is not the greatest in the world, that's for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey94gt Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Another small update. Checked the weight last night. As it sits right now with battery in the front and stock engine, I'm at 3420 lbs and 57/43 weight distribution. This was measured with full tank of fuel. It will be nice to see where the weight will be once the motor is in.Hence the 1" engine setback option with the Griggs K member, pretty sure the MM K comes with it too.... Funny you mention this... the slo-maro is way better for packaging, as far as engine placement and weight distribution.... but you ever try to change plugs on one? id rather beat myself to death with my own arm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Yeah, I've had a 4th gen LT1. Working on that car was a bit difficult. Optispark went out the second day I've had the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey94gt Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Yeah, I've had a 4th gen LT1. Working on that car was a bit difficult. Optispark went out the second day I've had the car.Damn... that sucks... Ive only helped on repairs on 4th gen... never actually owned one... no wonder you saw the "Light" and went with a Stang... ahhaah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Stage 8 Bolts for headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solar Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Loving it. Very similiar goal as of mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey94gt Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Awesome, keep the updates comin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Brad Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 I think its crazy that your car has 240k miles on it...makes me not worry so much about mine having 227k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 More pictures with more stuff.Here is the old engine. Goodbye old friend, you've served me well.Now, something seems to be missing here. Where did I put this thing?Oh yeah, here it is Close up shot of the valve train.As of right now, the build is slightly behind schedule. The plan is to have the motor in the car on friday, and finally fire it up monday. Tuned and delivered should be end of next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 I'm sure you've posted this somewhere already... but what numbers are you looking to get, and what combo is that you're running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 350whp at the very minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 That's great.. i'm assuming from the high-rise intake that it's going to be a screamer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 That's actually a lower intake manifold from an Edelbrock Performer, that's been polished up a bit. But yeah, the car should have a good deal of top end power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Any updates with your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmfateam Posted April 19, 2013 Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted July 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 In development land, refactoring is something we call when an issue has been discovered, and it requires rethinking the approach and reworking the code. The next step of Mustang project is pretty much refactoring. I’ve been rethinking about why I can’t really harness the speed as well as I would like, and I’ve put together a comprehensive list of what will be tackled. 1. Front end geometry: When the engine was built, I decided to shift it back on k-member 1 inch backward for better weight distribution. One thing that I discovered is that when you do that, the front sump of the oil pan gets in the way of the steering rack, and the rack has to be shifted down to clear it, which in turn requires to adjust for bumpsteer. Doesn’t seem like a big issue until you realize that even when you max out the bumpsteer adjustment, you are still nowhere near where it should be. To remedy this, I had the engine moved back to original position, set the rack back to the center on the adjustable bushings, and dialed in the bumpsteer with the gauge to almost no change at all (as close as it would get to 0 toe change). 2. Hydroboost: As some may know, I’ve converted my car to hydroboost in order to be able to utilize the brakes to their maximum potential. The conversion consisted of hydroboost unit with master cylinder and pedal box from 96-04 V8 powered car to line up the pushpin with the pedal. I decided to power the unit with the stock 94 power steering pump. The issue is, that the pedal doesn’t feel anything like you would find in a normal OEM application. The travel is short, the pressure is really hard, feels like stepping on a rubber ball. I’ve had a chance to drive a 96 GT, which has a full factory hydrboost system, and I’ve realized that the pedal feel is completely wrong on my car. Since the power steering pump is the only piece that still hasn’t been converted, I assume this is what I need to fix. I have to keep a couple of things in consideration, such as size of power steering pulley and crank pulley to make sure that I don’t over-drive or under-drive the pump, and mounting it will be a separate challenge all together, since they are completely different mounting styles. 3. Oil rings: The motor is consuming oil like crazy. Having eliminated everything else, looks like oil rings are not doing their job well. I can see it smoking oil out of the tailpipe, and level goes down pretty quickly. Looks like Wild Pony Motorsports strikes again. Absolutely everything that shop touched about this motor is total shit. I’ve asked for a quote regarding how much it would cost to fix the issue, still waiting on the current shop to get back to me on that. More updates to come soon hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 thoroughly interested in the hydro boost problem. i've been toying with that swap for a while now. good luck on the rings though, that sucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted July 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 The whole idea of hydrooboost is a decent one, especially because it's a factory setup, but you may want to just look into a vacuum pump instead. For me it wasn't an option, since a vacuum pump won't be able to keep up with high demand of road racing, but for a street car, it should be more than sufficient. Something else to keep in mind is that hydroboost is an afterthought. Even Ford admitted that once they went to S197 chassis, and they had enough room to mount the vacuum assisted brake setup. It doesn't have the feel of vacuum brakes (much better ability to read what's happening with brakes), there is some cross chatter if you're trying turn and brake at the same time. If I could have made the vacuum brakes work well, I would have kept them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Got the parts necessary for the conversion of power steering pump. The mockup will be done next week. Just the pump and pulley are necessary for now. If I can get those working, the lines and reservoir should be a breeze. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 @seijirou - You should subscribe and follow this project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted August 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 The whole idea of hydrooboost is a decent one, especially because it's a factory setup, but you may want to just look into a vacuum pump instead. For me it wasn't an option, since a vacuum pump won't be able to keep up with high demand of road racing, but for a street car, it should be more than sufficient. Something else to keep in mind is that hydroboost is an afterthought. Even Ford admitted that once they went to S197 chassis, and they had enough room to mount the vacuum assisted brake setup. It doesn't have the feel of vacuum brakes (much better ability to read what's happening with brakes), there is some cross chatter if you're trying turn and brake at the same time. If I could have made the vacuum brakes work well, I would have kept them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 One step closer to having full hydroboost conversion done. Pressure line has to be redone, and install reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96blackgt54 Posted September 6, 2017 Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 That engine bay looks tight! Being a pushrod id figure loads of room compared to a modular 4.6l. Maybe its the camera angle? Anyhow, this build is awesome! Im eager to see the in car action photos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 13 hours ago, Evilcw311 said: So why switching to hydroboost?? I haven't read too many things about using it on a pushrod car The reason for hydroboost conversion is because the cam profile weakened the brakes significantly (not enough vacuum). It was either this, or manual brakes conversion, which I'm not completely thrilled about. I only have the hydroboost unit and pedal box right now, powered by stock power steering pump, which is why the pedal feel is total trash. Hoping converting to the correct power steering pump will take care of that, because that would be the whole hydroboost system end to end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 The conversion is done! All that's left is to run it a bit longer, get a different size belt, because it's a bit tight, make sure that it tracks straight, and it's off to the next part of the modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 All plumbed up and fully functional. Before it was just a mock-up fully installed. This time the lines are all there, including reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Dmitry, did you retain the 94 GT brake lines from the proportioning valve to the ABS block or swap those out as well? I'm trying to determine if I can simply build two lines to connect the hydrobooster to my existing 95 GT system or if I need to totally replace everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 10 hours ago, White95 said: Dmitry, did you retain the 94 GT brake lines from the proportioning valve to the ABS block or swap those out as well? I'm trying to determine if I can simply build two lines to connect the hydrobooster to my existing 95 GT system or if I need to totally replace everything. I did. As far as I was able to tell, no difference in the brake bias or the way ABS functioned before or after. I highly doubt you have to swap over ABS and proportioning valve from the hydroboost car, since all you're changing is how the brakes are assisted, not necessarily how the ABS system works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 59 minutes ago, ReplicaR said: I did. As far as I was able to tell, no difference in the brake bias or the way ABS functioned before or after. I highly doubt you have to swap over ABS and proportioning valve from the hydroboost car, since all you're changing is how the brakes are assisted, not necessarily how the ABS system works. This is great news. Do you happen to recall the fitting size (thread pitch) needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 I didn't do any of the work, so I wouldn't know. Sorry, can't help you there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 9 hours ago, White95 said: This is great news. Do you happen to recall the fitting size (thread pitch) needed? for the brake lines? Don't sweat that stuff even if you have to move the lines and rebend them you can cut the old fittings off of the old lines and reuse them on the new lines. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 9 minutes ago, ttocs said: for the brake lines? Don't sweat that stuff even if you have to move the lines and rebend them you can cut the old fittings off of the old lines and reuse them on the new lines. Genius Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Oh, those lines! I think MM has the lines just for the application, I would assume. They make so many different versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 not sure what mm charges but you can borrow the flaring tool and the bender from autozone and the lines are cheap. It can be a bit tedious but I also found it a bit relaxing and fun for some reason. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 They are around 20 dollars, but I've reviewed the site more, and it seems like they have very specific applications. Now that I've done a bit of memory searching, I realized that my lines were custom made by the shop that handled the swap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReplicaR Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2017 So, I took the car back. After driving it around the block, I can definitely tell that the brake pedal is a bit better. There is definitely more travel, it feels a bit more OEM-ish, although still a bit harder than I'd like it to be. Even though it's a full factory setup now, it still doesn't feel as nice as vacuum brakes did on the pedal and modulation, but it will have to do. The biggest thing for me now is to relearn how to brake on this car, since I've been spoiled by outstanding system in my daily driver, and I haven't had any seat time in this in almost a full year. Next up is the tune rework and a trip alignment shop, after which the car will get a shakedown at the autoX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 More! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...