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RedTwilight

Shadow's Build 1993 Notch

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22 hours ago, tony said:

that upper c/a kit looks pretty wicked!! 

 

I'm hoping that it will be worth it on the track.  Would love to see it drop my 60' times.  But I'm still using the mostly stock motor that just has a few bolt-ons.  I have more in the rear end than I do in the rest of the car! LOL<_<

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Well the ET Street R's ROCK!!!!:bananalama:  And for the 1st time in the past 3 years I've came home from a race without breaking anything!:banana:  

The ET Street R's are so much more consistent than the radials and they recover soooo much better than the radials ever could!  I am very satisfied with them! 

 

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On 4/4/2016 at 1:24 PM, Prokiller said:

that is consistency right there if i've ever seen it!

 

12 hours ago, RideTech_Ryan said:

Nice!  Should be easier to dial in from now on lol

 

I hope it'll be easier to dial in from now on.  With the radials it was either spin (with no chance of recovery) or break parts.  

Now I need to get me a two-step so I can keep my launches a little more consistent.

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Hadn't done much to either of the stangs recently but have a couple things to post now.

 

First off even though I've had them installed for a while I never took a pic of the Baseline upper control arms installed.  

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Last night I pulled the drag wheels and tires off and swapped them out for the new street setup.

 

The rears are 17x10 Pony R wheels with Sumitomo 315/35-17 and the fronts are the factory 16x8 painted to match the rears.

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And here's a pic showing the difference between the 315's and the 26x10.5 ET Street R tires.

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1 hour ago, Lanter said:

17" pony's look sweet.  How much massaging took place to fix 315s on the back.  I didn't think the fox had enough room.

 

 

Even with the correct offset wheels the fender lips have to be rolled and you have to hammer the inner wheel tub in a good bit.  Basically as close to flat against the frame rail as possible.  And obviously the quad shocks have to go.

One other bit is that the Sumitomo and Nitto brands run a little more narrow than other brand tires.

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Thanks Toby!:P

The fox body restoration and appearance market has really started to come around and expand.  Now they are offering more than just Draglites and flowmaster exhaust!:rolleyes: 

I'm still waiting for someone to replicate the '96-'97 Cobra wheels in a 18x11 and 18x8/9 staggered setup.

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Shortly before Christmas I was involved in a slight fender bender when someone decided to unexpectedly merge into my lane as my side was slowing for an accident in their lane. 

Well needless to say some body damaged occurred in the form of broken headlights, a bent fender, a torn and gouged front bumper cover, and my fiberglass hood slightly busted.

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I have a few bumper covers lying around and a set of clear headlights I purchased from a member on here.  So I placed an order for a new passenger fender and a Harwood 4" cowl hood.

Yes... Yes... I know I don't need a 4" cowl... but I like the way it looks and it's waayyyy lighter than going back to the factory steel hood.

Just last week I pulled Shadow into the shop to start replacing the body panels as well as a large order of parts.  I'm hoping to get everything ready for the Easter Race at Roxboro Motorsports Park.

 

This parts list soon to be done includes:

Pro 5.0 Shifter for the Tremec 3550
Steeda Tri-ax shifter handle 
Billet pistol grip shift knob
FRPP Aluminum driveshaft
Stifflers transmission crossmember.
Energy Suspension poly motor and trans mounts
Prothane poly offset rack bushings

Still awaiting delivery:
Team Z k-member kit with control arms and coilover kit
Strange 10 way adjustable front struts
Team Z castor camber plates
 

 

So as of this past weekend this is how it sits as I get parts changed out.

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Here I have gotten the body panels removed.  I hammered down the top front of the passenger side core support that was bent in the accident.  The aluminum driveshaft, Stifflers trans cross member, and poly trans mount have been installed.

Now I'm just waiting for the Team Z stuff to arrive so I can get that going.
 

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On 3/17/2017 at 10:17 AM, Blackmage said:

I need this.  well, for a 4.6 though. 

 

Go right ahead.  It ain't nothing but money!:baller:;)  Of course I no longer have the money because I spent it on this.:wacko:

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Got the Team Z and Strange stuff installed.  It's all really nice stuff.  I did have a few things fighting me such as ball joints and tie rods not wanting to break free to having to remove the entire brake rotor just to pull the spindle off the ball joint. 

The Team Z K member is a nice piece but next time I think I'm going with Racecraft.  Team Z offsets the steering rack towards the passenger side by 3/8".  THey said it's for header clearance.  But in my case with the BBK headers it had the opposite effect.  So out came the torch and BFH to "clearance" the header tubes for the MM steering shaft.  

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Finally got it all together and the body panels bolted on.  Dropped it down to see what it looked like before I set the ride height.  Nice and low.

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Initial ride height is set in front and a close enough alignment done until I can get it professionally aligned.  I may raise it up another 1/2" - 1" in front depending on how the rear suspension sits when I change the rear springs. 
I did make it to the track for the Easter Race at Roxboro.  But I didn't run or do any testing yet.  So no numbers on the new combination yet.

35992796105_4d5ab5b4f2_o.jpg

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3 hours ago, Prokiller said:

very nice trinity!  how much of a pain was getting the stock K out?

 

It wasn't that bad at all.  Just took a little time to get all the other stuff off and supported before removal.

It did take a little longer without an extra hand to help lift, hold, maneuver, etc.   

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On 4/18/2017 at 11:12 AM, RedTwilight said:

 

20170415_070255.jpg
 

 

 

Is the engine jacked up in this picture or sitting down where it's going to stay?  That much oil pan to steering rack clearance would be nice.  I had to shim my motor mounts where they bolt to the block just so the pan didn't sit on the rack.  

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2 hours ago, Josh@RideTech said:

 

Is the engine jacked up in this picture or sitting down where it's going to stay?  That much oil pan to steering rack clearance would be nice.  I had to shim my motor mounts where they bolt to the block just so the pan didn't sit on the rack.  

 

That is with the engine bolted down.  This was using the Energy Suspension poly motor mounts and the standard (not the autocross version) Team Z K member.   

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35 minutes ago, RedTwilight said:

 

That is with the engine bolted down.  This was using the Energy Suspension poly motor mounts and the standard (not the autocross version) Team Z K member.   

 

No kidding... I had a Team Z K member on one of the rollers I used to have but I never had an engine sat in it.  I've had a few different ones in the past and never had that much clearance.  I bet that I have a 1/4" between the pan and rack even with it spaced up a little bit.  I've always used the Energy Poly mounts as well.  It may be the picture but it looks like you can get your hand between yours with no issues at all, lol. 

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23 minutes ago, Josh@RideTech said:

 

No kidding... I had a Team Z K member on one of the rollers I used to have but I never had an engine sat in it.  I've had a few different ones in the past and never had that much clearance.  I bet that I have a 1/4" between the pan and rack even with it spaced up a little bit.  I've always used the Energy Poly mounts as well.  It may be the picture but it looks like you can get your hand between yours with no issues at all, lol. 

 

Yeah I was surprised with all the clearance myself.  The picture probably does make it look like there is more clearance than it actually is.  But surprisingly there is still a good deal of room there. 

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I got the Team Z rear drag springs and SVE isolaters installed a few weeks ago.  Now things have settled a bit.  Time to re-check the pinion angle, check the instant center, and hit the track to see if the new suspension will make a difference.

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I might end up removing the iso's depending on how everything goes at the track.

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Quick little update now that I've gotten most of the photo's re-hosted to another site.

 

The local track has had some ownership issues and has not been open but once this year.

Though I did go to another track for one race to test out the new suspension.  Well that outing told me I need to do some adjusting and change up the instant center a little.  I couldn't keep the car from spinning off the line even with only a 3k rpm launch.  

After a little measuring and calculating I found that my instant center was waaayyyyy too short.  I'll change that and reset it before the next time.

I did remove the isolator's from the rear spring to drop the rear another 3/4".  That should help but I'm also going to change the mounting hole on the upper control arms as well.

 

In the mean time I swapped out the shoes for the street set-up.

Before the swap I added a little more bling to the center caps.

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This thing looks good! Im going to go back and read the whole thread now.

 

 

Also, I see youre using flickr, what link are you copying and pasting here for the pictures to show up the way they are?

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7 minutes ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

Also, I see youre using flickr, what link are you copying and pasting here for the pictures to show up the way they are?

 

I'm using the BBCode then deleting the url for all the extra bits.

I'm still trying to figure out why it's turning some of the pics sideways, etc.

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11 minutes ago, RedTwilight said:

 

I'm using the BBCode then deleting the url for all the extra bits.

I'm still trying to figure out why it's turning some of the pics sideways, etc.

I dont know why they came out sideways. I did find out that the share link is easiest to post up and you dont have to delete the url stuff.

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Made a simple switch plate to cover the hole where the radio head unit used to be.  At the moment I only have the one electric fan switch in.  But I have laid out room for 3 more switches and a couple gauges on the back for future installation.

36367171331_009fcd79ca_o.jpg

 

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I have finally gotten around to pulling the console and installing the Pro 5.0 shifter with Steeda handle and billet pistol grip knob.  

I've got a new inner shifter boot on the way to replace the original that was missing altogether.  

 

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Also ordered some LED bulbs for the gauge cluster.  Just a couple more items marked off the list before MustangWeek.

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While the console was apart, I took the opportunity to fix the ash tray door.  The hinge pins had broken so I just drilled some hole and replaced them with a couple of screws.

Voila!  No more floppy ash tray door!
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While I had the console out, I ended up doing quite a bit of cleaning and detailing to the interior before MustangWeek 2017.

 

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Don't you just love how easily the Fox coupe rear seats can be removed?
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Cleaned the upholstery.  Here is a comparison.  The right side has been cleaned and allowed to dry.
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All cleaned and back in.
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I also pulled the gauge cluster to replace the stock bulbs with LEDs.
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Got a new arm rest pad from Fox Mustang Restoration.  I was missing the pad altogether and the bottom plastic piece that it attaches to was broken.  Got both replaced and ready to go back in the car.  
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All cleaned and back together!

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I also installed new door armrest pads, new door handle bezels, and new floor mats.
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Last minute washing, painting of the wiper arms, and new outer window belt trim before leaving for the greatest week of the year!

MustangWeek 2017 here we come.
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Edited by RedTwilight
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I've been having an issue with a part throttle hesitation and also an issue with it starting.  I have thinking that it's the fuel pump that is the culprit.
But just to eliminate a few things that I already had on hand, I went ahead and did a mini tune up.  I went with a new Motorcraft fuel Filter, Motorcraft copper spark plugs, FRPP 9mm ignition wires and a new Screamin' Demon ignition coil.

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This didn't alleviate the issue but it did eliminate possibilities that needed changing anyway.

I will borrow a gauge and test to verify the fuel pressure is correct or not. 

But in the event that it is the pump, I placed an order for some new fuel system pieces.  
Those ordered are:
    Walbro 190lph in tank fuel pump
    Aeromotive adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
    BBK fuel rails
    some stainless braided fuel lines and fittings
    Ford Racing 24lb injectors
    and a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge

 

I'm still trying to figure out if I want to go with the C&L 76mm MAF with intake tube or an 80mm Pro-M  MAF.  Both of course will be calibrated for the 24lb injectors.

 

Box-O-Fuel system parts.

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And since this thread needs an engine pic,  voila...

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Edited by RedTwilight
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mmm....   I think my fuel pressure is just a little low!

 

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43 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

If only that engine could breathe a lil easier...........  ;-)

 

I'm working on saving for that now.;)  
Also researching a new Dremel and keeping an eye out for some 3 bar GT40 heads.

 

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10 hours ago, White95 said:

More!

 

Post Whore!;)  :bananalama:

 

 

I hope to get the fuel pump replaced this Friday.  If I have any extra time I plan to straighten up the engine bay a little.  But I've got 2 license plates to airbrush for someone first before the straightening up can be done.

I still need to get a MAF calibrated to the 24lb injectors.  So those won't be installed until a later date.  I may not even get them installed until after a new set of heads, intake and a small cam is done.  I still want to see what it'll run with the new suspension before I remove the upper intake. 

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On 10/27/2017 at 4:43 PM, RedTwilight said:

mmm....   I think my fuel pressure is just a little low!

 

37920263846_229387fb90_o.jpg

 

 

 

I'm working on saving for that now.;)  
Also researching a new Dremel and keeping an eye out for some 3 bar GT40 heads.

 

 

Quick question.... Does your fender say "Tang Yang" on it? lol :D 

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2 hours ago, Josh@RideTech said:

 

Quick question.... Does your fender say "Tang Yang" on it? lol :D 

 

LOL  Yes it does.  It's a cheap replacement fender that I had bought after the "Fender Bender" last December.  It fit surprisingly well.  Even a body man that has had countless Mustangs said it looked to fit well for not being OEM.  

Though if I run across a good condition factory fender then I won't hesitate to swap out.

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