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RedTwilight

Shadow's Build 1993 Notch

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Got the old fuel pump out and replaced with the new Walbro 190lph pump.

 

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Quite a size difference between the two.

 

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The hesitating and stumbling problem has now been taking care of.  It runs soooo much better.

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2 hours ago, ttocs said:

I have one fender that is OEM and one that is a reproduction and you do not have to lean on it far before you can feel the reproduction fender start to cave in.  Its really thin/soft metal...

 

Yeah I won't hesitate to get an OEM fender when I run across one.  As long as it's before I paint the car.

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Started collecting parts for a 5 lug swap.  I still have quite a few pieces to get.  

I've had the Cobra calipers and brackets for a few years now.  I have also gotten spindles from a '94-'95 and the rear brackets, dust shields and rotors.  I also have a pair of polished 17x10  '03 Cobra wheels for the rear. 

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I still have the big ticket items such as rear axles, brake booster / master cylinder, brake lines, proportioning valve, and line lock to go.  Also will still need to get a set of wheels for the track and a pair of front wheels for the street.
I doubt I'll have it all by Mustang Week this year; but I'll try.  If not by this time next year.

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I had a little bit of trouble with the '93 cranking, or lack there of.  It would spin over no problem but never fire.  After checking through all the possible culprits including replacing a fuse link, the problem has been narrowed down.  

It is getting spark no problem, and it has fuel pressure up to the rails.  But when I pull a plug, they are completely dry.  Also the pump stays continuously running instead of priming then shutting off.  
So this has lead me to the conclusion that the ECU has gone.  I'll pull it and visually check to see if I can find anything wrong first that I could possibly repair before getting a new one.

I'm also going to swap out the TPS first just in case as I could not get it adjusted anywhere near the proper voltage.  But I'm 95% certain it's the computer.

 

Also while it's in the shop I will replace the clutch so it will be broken in before race season starts back up at the local track.

The clutch itself is will be an under warranty replacement from Advance Auto.  The current one has held up really well these last few years.

 

To compliment the new clutch while everything is out will be a new Ram aluminum flywheel, Maximum Motorpsorts clutch cable, and a new rear main seal.

 

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I also got the last piece needed to swap to the 24lb injectors.  

Pro-M 80mm maf with filter.

 

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Edited by RedTwilight
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On 1/8/2018 at 12:52 PM, RedTwilight said:

Started collecting parts for a 5 lug swap.  I still have quite a few pieces to get.  

I've had the Cobra calipers and brackets for a few years now.  I have also gotten spindles from a '94-'95 and the rear brackets, dust shields and rotors.  I also have a pair of polished 17x10  '03 Cobra wheels for the rear. 

39528409851_415042fda7_o.jpg

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I still have the big ticket items such as rear axles, brake booster / master cylinder, brake lines, proportioning valve, and line lock to go.  Also will still need to get a set of wheels for the track and a pair of front wheels for the street.
I doubt I'll have it all by Mustang Week this year; but I'll try.  If not by this time next year.

are you wanting new or stock axles?  I have some stock 5-lugs

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6 hours ago, ttocs said:

are you wanting new or stock axles?  I have some stock 5-lugs

 

Nah!  Thanks though.   

I will be using Fox length Strange 31 spline race axles.  The same as currently in the car only with 5 lug instead of 4.

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Pulled the transmission, old clutch, and flywheel on my day off in preparation for the new clutch and aluminum flywheel.  Also a new rear main seal to replace the leaky one.

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Hopefully when I'm off this Friday I can get it all back in and back on the ground.


And to figure out the no start issue I pulled the A3M EEC and opened it up.

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I found 2 corroded capacitors.  One of which was broken and and the other was nearly broken.  So now to locate some new capacitors and try to repair it.  I'm not out anything if it doesn't work as I can still use it for the core charge on a new replacement.

Edited by RedTwilight
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1 hour ago, Prokiller said:

good luck on the repair.  hopefully thats all that it is.

 

Thanks!  I hope the new capacitors will take care of it.  

Thanks to @LWARRIOR1016 for sending me some spares he had laying around!

 

Hopefully I can get it all buttoned up and ready to go soon.  The track has it's opening day Sat March 3rd that I'd like to make for some test and tune.

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Last weekend 2-10-2018 I got the transmission back in the car.

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And this past Friday I finished buttoning everything up underneath the car with re-installation of the driveshaft and exhaust.
Now to just adjust the clutch once I can get it running.


In the attempt to get the car running I replaced the corroded capacitors in the EEC.  

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Got it back in the car and tried it out.  Nope!  Still doing the same no start and continuous running of the fuel pump.

I may end up buying a new EEC.   I did pull the computer back out to check it over again.  I found what looked to be a circuit that was slightly corroded at one of the capacitors terminals.  I'm going to clean it good and add a dab of solder.  Then I'll reinstall and try it once more.
If that doesn't work, then a new or refurbished EEC it will be.

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Check the traces to those caps. If the trace is burnt, you could solder in a piece of wire from the cap to the other end of the trace. Do you have a picture of the underside of the board?

 

Sucks that the caps didnt fix it. With enough troubleshooting and maybe a schematic, we can fix this computer lol

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4 hours ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

Check the traces to those caps. If the trace is burnt, you could solder in a piece of wire from the cap to the other end of the trace. Do you have a picture of the underside of the board?

 

Sucks that the caps didnt fix it. With enough troubleshooting and maybe a schematic, we can fix this computer lol

 

I don't have a pic yet of the underside, but can get one.

It does look like one of the circuit traces is burnt or corroded right at the capacitor.  It's the capacitor closest to the harness connector.  I'm going to try and check the continuity of them with the multi-meter  also.

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18 hours ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

 Do you have a picture of the underside of the board?

 

Here's a shot of the underside.  I couldn't find anything that looked out of the ordinary.  I even shined a bright light through it.

 

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I zoomed in and looked at it, Im not seeing anything out of the ordinary. You said the fuel pump in running constant and the car wont start. Do you know what the car is loosing, fuel or air? We may be able to find the related pin and follow that pin along the board and see if anything looks bad.

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1 hour ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

I zoomed in and looked at it, Im not seeing anything out of the ordinary. You said the fuel pump in running constant and the car wont start. Do you know what the car is loosing, fuel or air? We may be able to find the related pin and follow that pin along the board and see if anything looks bad.

 

Yes, the fuel pump is running constant.

It's getting spark.  It's getting air.  And it has fuel up to the rails.  But it would seem that the injectors aren't firing.  The plugs are completely dry.  


There is that one spot near one of the capacitors that I will attempt to fix.  If that doesn't work then I'll stop being cheap and get a new computer. LOL

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1 hour ago, RedTwilight said:

 

Yes, the fuel pump is running constant.

It's getting spark.  It's getting air.  And it has fuel up to the rails.  But it would seem that the injectors aren't firing.  The plugs are completely dry.  


There is that one spot near one of the capacitors that I will attempt to fix.  If that doesn't work then I'll stop being cheap and get a new computer. LOL

 

You could always keep trying lol. Did you determine whether the injectors are losing power or ground?

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I made a little progress on the EEC.  I added a couple blobs of solder to the traces that looked broken at one of the capacitors and reinstalled in the car.

This time the fuel pump cycled on normally for 2 seconds in stead of continuously running.  When I went to crank it, it actually hit and tried to fire. 

I pulled the PIP spout from the TFI harness and try it again.  This time it runs with the spout out.  But as soon as I reinstall the spout it shuts off.  I did try another spout we had laying around and no change.  

I'm going to redo the soldering to reconnect the traces and check the other capacitors with the multi-meter and try it again.  

 

Not were I wanted but it's getting closer.  
If I can't get it repaired myself my only option might be to send the EEC off somewhere to get repaired.  It's looking like there are no re-manufactured ones available at the moment.

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70bf5f017837cd89b7dbcfeb1a0c8d6e8d2d72d9

 

 

Fixed the broken trace and it fired right up!

I even got the front coil-over springs switched out for the next weight range up.  

Now to get a few miles on the clutch and it'll be ready for the track! 

Edited by RedTwilight
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Well the weather was absolutely gorgeous for a full weekend of racing at Roxboro Motorsports Park 59th Annual Easter Bash.  My dad, brother, and I were all there to race.  But my brother was having some transmission troubles on Friday night test and tune, and decided not to run in the main bracket races.  

Us three next to my dads '82 
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My brothers '90 and my '93 in the pits!
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On Saturdays (March 31, 2018) Race I ran a new best of 8.37 at 80mph with a 1.7441 60ft time.  But I went out in the first round after breaking out by .0001!  Yes that is correct...  I went .0001 too fast against my dial-in number.

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During Sundays event we only got one time run.  I didn't get a full pass as the shifter handle broke during the 1 - 2 shift.  But I did get a new best 60ft time of 1.71.

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Luckily I had another handle with me so I could continue.  I proceeded to go to the 4th round in which I believe driver error happened and I just couldn't run the numbers and was eliminated.  But I did win a little money for winning the 3rd round of competition.  Basically just go my entrance fee back.  But that's good enough for me.  Overall a great weekend!


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Got a few more pieces to the puzzle for the 5 lug Cobra 4 wheel disc conversion.

Found a decent deal on a slightly used (only 60 miles) '93 Cobra brake booster and master cylinder.  

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Also included in the deal were m/c to proportioning block lines for 86 and earlier Mustangs.  I probably will end up letting them go.


And I got a package in from Maximum Motorsports full of more brake lines.
Included are the braided front soft lines for Fox to SN95 calipers, Wilwood proportioning valve, master cylinder to stock prop. valve hard lines, and stock proportioning valve eliminator fittings.
Also pictured are spacers for the Fox ball joint to SN95 spindle.

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Also on order is the rear hard lines and braided flex lines for Fox to SN95 calipers.

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3 hours ago, Number Tew said:

I hate doing brake swap stuff, but it's so important lol

 

 

This will be a huge upgrade over the Fox brakes and I'll have more wheel choices with the 5 lug setup as well.

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A little update as to what's been going on the past few months.
 
I picked up a used Holley Systemax II intake with 1" spacer for only $300.00.  I don't really need it at this moment, but for the price I went ahead a pulled the trigger.  At least I'll already have a decent intake for when I start to build the engine.
 
 
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I was also having problems with the cheap clutch cable firewall adjuster loosening and the cable getting slack.
So I ordered a McCleod quik-click firewall adjuster.
 
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The red anodizing will clash with the color I plan to paint the coupe, so I took some Easy-Off oven cleaner and stripped the coating.  
 
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A quick polish to get the bare aluminum looking a little better.
 
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I've also never really happy with the clutch adjustment and feel.  So also ordered is a Steeda quick ratio quadrant to replace the cheapo double hook piece that is currently installed.
 
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Nice sunset pic.
 
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The race season is done for the year other than a few test-n-tunes.  So I swapped the street wheels/tires back on.
 
 
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 Been just driving it and enjoying.  I even took it to Foxtoberfest this year.
 
I did buy a couple of interior trim pieces while there to replace a couple of the old, faded, and/or cracked pieces.
 
 
Foxtoberfest 2018 (412 Foxes in one place!)
 
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 I hope to be able to get the 5'lug Cobra Brake swap done over winter or early spring.  But I also want to turn some of my attention to my '96 Cobra.  It's badly in need of some TLC.
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I ordered some new domed wheel center cap decals from Tom Clark (aka sinisbuilt) for the wheels that I will be running after the 5 lug swap.
 
 
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One set is for the Racestar drag wheels and the other set is for replica polished '03-'04 Cobra wheels for the street.
 
 
 
Well I took advantage of the Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals and got a few more items for the 5 lug swap.
 
First were the Strange Engineering Hy-Tuf race axles in Fox width with the 2.78" brake rotor register and 5x4.5" lug pattern 1/2"-20 x 3" drive studs.  I also got new C-clip eliminators to go with them.
 
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Next was 2 - polished 15x8 Racestar wheels for the rear during the track sessions.  I had gotten the matching 17x4.5 fronts back in the summer.
 
Introducing the "Punishstars"
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I also got a Hurst line-loc kit and a pair of '93 Cobra parking brake cables.
 
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Just a few items left to get and I'll have everything for the 4 wheel Cobra disc 5-lug swap.
 
Guess I'd better get started cleaning, painting, and rebuilding the calipers so the will be ready to go.
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47 minutes ago, Det_Riot said:

Not a bad haul for black Friday! Seeing everyone make progress has really been lighting a fire under my ass.  

 

Yep.  But my wallet felt it for sure!  

Now I just need the fire lit to make progress on the Cobra.

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Time for a little update.

 

Back in March I had an occurrence that involved a deer and my '93 trying to occupy the same space at the same time. 

 

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I had to replace a heater core in a '98 Dodge Durango before I could get started on repairing the coupe.  

 

I finally got around to pulling the car in the shop about 3 weeks ago.  

Pulled the fenders to assess the damage.

 

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The radiator core support was heavily damaged and the decision was made to cut it out and replace it.  Luckily my brother had a parts car with a straight core support.

 

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Moved the coupe down the hill to my dad's shop so the welder could be utilized and got the straight core support welded on.

 

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Hit the welds with a little paint to prevent corrosion and then bolted the front bumper back on and hung the fenders.

 

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We had a few extra front bumper covers laying around.  So I choose the best cover and the best header panel and installed the header panel into the good bumper cover.  Then I was able to bolt the new clear headlights in the bumper cover and bolted it to the car.  

All the panels were then adjusted and aligned.  Moved it back to my little shed to finish up the rest of the stuff.  

 

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Surprisingly all the body panels aligned much better than before the deer incident.

 

All that is left is to replace the broken hood latches, drop in the radiator, electric fan, and battery.  Then I can change the oil, spark plugs, and swap to the drag wheel and tire setup just in time for the annual Easter Race at the local drag strip.

 

 

And in case you were wondering why we had to move my car back to my little shed...

for this.

 

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A '95 GTS roller he purchased last year.  He is busy trying to get a 351w and powerglide ready to drop into it.  
Then we will have 3 cars ready to go to the track this weekend.  Dad's '82 coupe and the '95 and my '93 coupe.

 

 

Edited by RedTwilight
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2 hours ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

Man, you totally should have gone with a tubular core support! 

 

Good job getting it repaired though, I’m excited to see videos of this thing at the track. 

 

I have been wanting to go with a tubular front for a while now.  But I don't have the money for the one I want to go with.  We didn't really have the time.  With the tubular I would have also needed to relocate the battery and all the associated wiring.  Just not enough time and money to do all that at the moment.  Especially when trying to get 3 cars ready to go.  And one of those needs the engine and trans installed and all lines and hoses ran.

The race is this weekend and I still have a few small things to get buttoned up.  But I should be good to go by Friday.

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12 hours ago, Number Tew said:

Good stuff on the repair at least!  I love "We just had all these parts laying around to slap it together" lol!

Actually we probably have enough parts laying around to build another full car if not 2.  

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