A Slow Build: College Kid's 1994 Mustang - Engine and Transmission are in the Car!!!

[BrettNorton]

December 2016,

 

Got some transmission parts from the Midwest Mustang junkyard yesterday.

 

This is a T5 transmission that came out of a 1995 Mustang GT.  I’ll admit, $500 is quite a bit for a USED T5 transmission, but this one is real dirty (it's gonna need a real good cleaning) and looks like it’s never been messed with, AKA “rebuilt.”  Plus, since this T5 was behind a V8 Mustang, the gears inside of it are not only stronger than the gears in a V6 T5 (300 lb. ft. torque capacity IIRC), but the gear ratios themselves are more oriented for “spirited driving.”  2^nd and 3^rd gear ratios are both lower on the V8 than the V6 (helps with getting the car going more quickly), while the 5^th gear ratio is higher for the V8 than the V6 (keeps engine RPM down on the highway).

5.0 V8 gear set (what my transmission has): 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.68

3.8 V6 gear set: 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.73

 

I’m HOPING that this thing doesn’t have any major issues, but because this transmission did come from a junkyard, I’m assuming that there’s something wrong with it other than worn out bearings and synchronizer rings.  2^nd gear will probably have some issues (anybody that drives a manual transmission, especially one in a Mustang, ALWAYS hits 2^nd gear the hardest), and some threads will likely get stripped out of the aluminum case (like the block for an engine, the case is the largest part of a manual transmission).

Another thing to know about this transmission is the proper way to transport it.  You really don’t have to do anything too complicated, other than, oh I don’t know, PLUG UP THAT DAMN TAILSHAFT SEAL (where the driveshaft goes into the back of the transmission) SOMEHOW!!!  Even through the Midwest Mustang junkyard place drained out most of the fluid already, that damn transmission continued to drip and drip and drip the whole time I was transporting it.  What made it even worse was that the transmission and all of its dirty parts were in the back of my car’s trunk since I was kind of in a pinch and didn’t have a truck at the time.  As a result of me not plugging that leaky tailshaft seal, the transmission continued to leak in the back of my car, and it left a nice pretty little stain on the trunk floor.  GAHDDAMMIT!!!

 

 

Along with the transmission, I bought a T5 bellhousing that came from the same 1995 Mustang GT that the transmission came out of.  This bellhousing wasn’t too cheap ($250) or easy to come by since it was only made for 2 years, but it’s the correct part for an SN95 5.0 Mustang like what I’m building and I shouldn’t have any fitment issues with it.

 

The bellhousing also came with the block plate and a clutch fork cover.

 

Right away though, I’ve got a little fitment issue with this bellhousing.  The bolt hole on the clutch fork cover doesn’t exactly line up with the bolt hole in the bellhousing.  I’m sure I’ll be able to fix it.

 

I also bought a clutch pedal assembly out of, again, that same 1995 Mustang GT.  The little pads on the pedals where my feet would press against are a little worn out, and that plastic clutch cable quadrant will need to be changed out for an aluminum quadrant.  There are also a few switches and whatnot on it that I’ll have to figure out as well.  I also noticed that there’s no bushing, brake light switch, or any hardware on the brake pedal where it’s supposed to be.  All of the brake pedal hardware is missing.  Whatever, I'll be able to figure out all of those switches and get the hardware situation figured out.

 

 

 

 

Finally, these transmission parts came with a bunch of nuts, bolts, and hardware associated with installing all of it into the car.

 

The transmission teardown will happen a few days from now.  Gotta get my final exams finished up at school before I start ripping it all apart.

[Blackmage]

id double check the input shaft is correct for the 94-95's.  i know they said it came from a 95, but just double check! my 95 had a fox body t5 in it when i bought it, so i had some terrible vibrations because the input shaft wasn't riding on the pilot bushing/bearing.  

[BrettNorton]

15 hours ago, Blackmage said:

id double check the input shaft is correct for the 94-95's.  i know they said it came from a 95, but just double check! my 95 had a fox body t5 in it when i bought it, so i had some terrible vibrations because the input shaft wasn't riding on the pilot bushing/bearing.  

 

OK, I'll get on that.  This transmission I've got doesn't look like it's ever been taken apart before (hell it even still has the factory shifter on it), but I guess you never know what any of these T5's have been through in their 20-30 years of life.   

[BrettNorton]

December 2016,

 

Yesterday, I tore down the T5 transmission that I’ll eventually be rebuilding for my Mustang.

Now, I’m not going to bother trying to explain how the many parts of a manual transmission actually work, and what all I did to tear my T5 transmission down.  To help people better understand what’s going on here, I’ve posted a few videos involving a transmission guy named Paul Cangialosi. This dude just explains all of this transmission shit so well and so much better than I could.  You all will probably enjoy these videos of him.  They’re what made me decide that I could rebuild a T5 transmission myself instead of having to pay somebody to do it for me.

How a manual transmission works (I'll admit, not the best video about this IMO)

 

How synchronizer rings work

 

T5 transmission teardown video

 

Now, in that Paul Cangialosi T5 teardown video, the transmission he was going through came out of a Fox Body Mustang and it had already been messed with and abused by a previous owner.  Obviously, it had a few issues other than just worn bearings and synchro rings.  2nd gear and the 1-2 slider were both trashed (common issue with T5’s), the 1-2 shift fork was broken, a few threads had been stripped out of the case, and the shifter box of the tail housing was damaged.

 

As for my T5 transmission though, it’s very dirty on the outside like it had been sitting in a shop or some place for many years.  But holy mother of God, THIS THING’S IN AMAZING SHAPE ON THE INSIDE.  Hell, I’m even going to go so far to say that it probably doesn’t even have 50,000 miles on it.  It literally looks that good and clean on the inside.  All the problems I had fears of, namely issues with 2nd gear and stripping threads out, both of which are common problems that T5 transmissions usually have, seem to be NON-EXISTENT in this one that I’ve got.

 

Now for the actual teardown…

 

Shifter removed.  The factory shifters on these transmissions don’t have any shift stops built into them, and as you can see, this is a factory shifter that I took off my transmission.  That’s just amazing.  The fact that the shifter hasn’t even been messed with in my transmission’s 20+ years of life really goes to show how much of a virgin it is.

 

 

Front bearing retainer removed.  It only had a single shim inside of it, which is what was used by the factory.  A good indicator that this transmission’s never been rebuilt before.

 

 

Tail housing removed.  I was a bit surprised to see that my transmission has a reverse synchronizer in it, since it’s supposedly not very common in T5’s.

 

 

Top cover taken off.  Both the shift forks and shift fork pads look to be in good shape.  Though the 1-2 shift pads are a cream-like color while the 3-4 shift pads are black.  I wonder why?

 

 

This picture doesn’t really show it, but all of the engagement teeth of the gears look to be in good shape.  Only a tiny wee bit of wear on them.

 

Shift forks and shift rail taken out of the cover.

 

There’s a snap ring that holds the 5-Reverse slider assembly onto the counter shaft.  I had a hell of a time getting this thing off because of the cheap Harbor Freight snap ring pliers I bought a few months ago.  Those damn cheap-ass pliers wouldn’t spread the ring far enough to remove it.  I had to stop working, drive 10 minutes into town, and buy some better snap ring pliers to get this thing off.

 

Fuck you in the ass with a cactus you cheap POS snap ring pliers.

 

Had to use a two-jaw puller to remove the 5th drive gear and the 5-Reverse slider assembly.

 

 

Removed the input shaft / 4th gear, and yes a few of the needle bearings inside of it fell out.

 

Main shaft / Output shaft pulled out of the case.

 

The counter gear has its own retainer plate holding it on the back of the case.  Like the front bearing retainer, the rear counter gear retainer plate only had a single shim inside of it.

 

The rear counter shaft bearing has to be pressed off in order for the counter gear to be removed.  This was a job for my Harbor Freight shop press and bearing splitter.

 

 

Counter gear removed.  It looks to be in very good shape.

 

Reverse idler gear and rails removed.  The reverse idler itself is a little worn, but it’s still very usable.

 

 

Here is the case completely disassembled.  I left the 5th - Reverse lever inside since it would be a bitch of a job to take it out.  Supposedly, that big torx bolt holding it in needs to be heated up really hot to be removed.  The case itself though is very clean inside, and thankfully, none of the threads are stripped out on it at all.

 

 

 

Disassembly of the main shaft began with me removing the 3-4 slider assembly and 3rd gear.  Holding the main shaft in a vice (with soft towels of course) made it a lot easier to take apart.

 

The 5th driven gear not only has a snap ring holding it in, but it’s also a pretty tight fit on the main shaft.  Not a press-fit like the bearings, just tight enough that you can’t pull it off by hand.  I used the press to remove it.

 

Finally, here’s the main shaft completely disassembled.  The 1-2 hub (what the 1-2 slider slides on) is still on there because it’s not supposed to come off or be removed.

 

The ONLY issue inside this transmission is this 2nd gear synchronizer ring.  None of the friction paper has fallen or burned off of it, but when I press it against 2nd gear (like what Paul Cangialosi did in his synchronizer ring video), it doesn’t grab the gear like a good synchro ring is supposed to.

 

Good synchro rings are supposed to have a bit of a gap (0.030” to 0.060”) away from the engagement teeth of the gear.  You can see here, however, that the synchro ring sits flat against the 2nd gear when I press on it.  That’s a pretty good indicator that this 2nd gear synchro ring is trashed.

 

All of the other synchronizer rings in the transmission seemed to work pretty well, but I can tell that they’re a little worn.  Probably a good idea for me to rebuild my transmission with all-new synchro rings.

And lastly, here is my T5 transmission completely taken apart.

 

I’ll be going through and rebuilding this whole thing in about a month or possibly a few months.  Don’t exactly have the disposable income to be blowing on transmission parts right now.

Speaking of transmission parts, that transmission rebuilder guy Paul Cangialosi also runs a website called 5speeds.com where he sells all kinds of rebuild kits and parts for many manual transmissions.  I’ll be buying a T5 rebuild kit as well as a few other parts from him when the time comes.

For now though, I’ve got all the transmission parts bagged up to keep dirt, dust, hairs, etc. off of them.  I can’t wait to put it all back together.

Edited December 18, 2016 by BrettNorton

[Blackmage]

nice job on the trans disassembly.  make sure to keep it all in one box too, dont want something to go missing if its all just stacked up!  the fun part is putting it all back together, the right way  

[BrettNorton]

22 hours ago, Blackmage said:

nice job on the trans disassembly.  make sure to keep it all in one box too, dont want something to go missing if its all just stacked up!  the fun part is putting it all back together, the right way  

 

lol yeah it's all in a bunch of separate bags, but all those bags are labeled and the parts inside each bag (gears, synchro rings, washers, spacers, snap rings, etc.) are all zip-tied together to keep everything in order.

[BrettNorton]

January 2017,

 

Got myself a new phone not too long ago, so the pictures might look a little different than what you normally see.

 

Spent some time cleaning out the transmission this weekend.

Started by cleaning all of the bolts that I’ll be reusing.  A lot of them had sealer and Loctite from the factory stuck to them, so I ran each one through a die to clean up the threads.

 

To clean the bolts up even further, I put them in a bowl of lacquer thinner and let them soak overnight.

 

As for the transmission itself, I ran a tap through all of the threaded holes in the case to clean them out as well.

 

I followed up with cleaning off the bellhousing (it's not in the picture, but I got it cleaned up too), the case, the top cover, and the tail housing.  Because these parts are all made of aluminum, taking a steel wire wheel to them would probably damage them somehow.  What I ended up doing was giving the parts an initial dose of brake cleaner (which I’ll admit, didn’t clean anything very well at all), and then shooting them with a pressure washer.

 

The little magnet at the bottom of the case needed to be cleaned off as well.  It catches all of the metal shavings created from the gears meshing together, so that said shavings don’t raise hell and tear things up inside the transmission.  Obviously, the magnet in my transmission was pretty nasty, even with the pressure washing.

 

The magnet itself is held in by a flat piece of metal that acts as a nut.  I unscrewed that flat nut and pried the magnet out with a screwdriver since it’s also glued into the case.  With the magnet out, I thoroughly wiped all of the metal shavings off of it.  Ah, much better!

 

Finally, I painted all of the outer transmission parts.

I wire wheeled the smaller parts and painted them black

 

 

Drilled out somewhat of a template in a cardboard box and painted all of the bolt heads black

 

 

Painted the aluminum parts silver.  Because the brake cleaner and pressure washing didn’t get all the grease and shit off of anything, the paint only looks better in the pictures than it actually does.

Bellhousing

 

Top cover

 

Masked off the case just like I did with the engine block.  I coated the front sealing surface with some lithium grease to keep paint off of it.

 

 

The case painted

 

Before I painted the tail housing, I decided that I wanted to press the tail shaft bushing out of it.  A 1 ¼” socket seemed to fit around the bushing perfectly, and I got the whole thing set up on the press.  I pressed on it quite a bit, and things started feeling pretty tight, but before too long, POP!  The old tail shaft bushing came out.  Alright!

 

I went to go get the socket out of the tail housing, and…  OH, SHIT.

 

 

AH SON OF A (much screaming and many many cuss words later)!!!  I CRACKED THE (many many cuss words) TAIL HOUSING!!!  THE (many many cuss words) THING’S JUNK NOW!!!

 

*Long sigh* Welp!  I’ve got just about all the parts of the transmission cleaned and painted, that’s a good accomplishment.  But whoo-fuckin’-pee, now I gotta go out and find another damn tail housing for the thing!  Oh yeah, that’s gonna be REAL fun if you can sense the sarcasm here.

Edited January 15, 2017 by BrettNorton

[BrettNorton]

January 2017,

 

Got all the parts I need to rebuild the transmission.

This is a T5 transmission rebuild kit from Paul Cangialosi at 5speeds.com.  It’s got nearly all of the small items that I’ll need to rebuild the transmission.  All of the synchronizer rings (carbon fiber-lined rings, same ones used in the T56 6-speed), keys, springs, bearings, seals, plugs, washers, shims, etc. are included.

 

This is Paul Cangialosi’s counter gear stabilizer plate.  The VERY FIRST ORIGINAL COUNTER GEAR STABLIZER PLATE, designed by Paul way back in the 90’s. The old counter gear plate out of the transmission is just a piece of stamped steel while this new plate is made of billet steel IIRC.  Obviously, this new plate is much stronger and won’t stretch out like the old one, but it also actually holds the rear counter gear bearing in place, something that the old plate never did.

 

Thankfully, Paul had another T5 tail housing in stock to replace the one that I destroyed when I tried to press the old tail shaft bushing out of it.

 

Even though the tail shaft bushing is a replaceable item in a T5, the bore that it sits in often gets distorted somehow when the old one’s pulled out and the new one’s pressed in.  Very rarely is a T5 tail shaft bushing ever successfully replaced without any issues.  Sometimes, the driveshaft yoke won’t fit right (bushing too tight), but that can be easily fixed by honing / reaming the bushing out a little bit.  More often than not however, the new bushing doesn’t fit snug in the tail housing, making the bushing itself (and subsequently, the driveshaft) wobbly, which causes HUGE vibrations in the car.  Apparently, the only true way to replace a T5 tail shaft bushing, AND KNOW WITH ABSOLUTE COMPLETE CERTAINTY THAT IT’S DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, is to basically go out and buy a brand new tail housing that already has the bushing installed.

I bought a 28-spline driveshaft yoke to test the bushing out, and thankfully, the bushing in this particular tail housing feels pretty good, not too much wobbliness in the yoke.  I pressure washed the tail housing, degreased it, and painted it just like with the other aluminum transmission parts.

 

The front bearing retainer of a T5 bolts onto the front of the transmission and holds both the input shaft and throw-out bearings in place.  It also acts as the front seal for the transmission.  The steel sleeve of the old front bearing retainer (what the throw-out bearing rides on) was pretty rusty crusty, and I didn’t feel too comfortable about trying to clean the thing without damaging it, so I bought a new one.

 

This is an SVE shifter.  It wasn’t too expensive (read, it was only $70, which is pretty cheap for an aftermarket shifter), but it’s much nicer than the old factory shifter.  The shifter base itself is made of billet aluminum, instead of stamped steel.  There are shift stops integrated into this shifter, whereas the factory shifter has no stops in it at all.  And finally, the “throw” of this shifter is a good bit shorter than that of the factory shifter, hence the term “short-throw shifter.”

 

This decision took a pretty good amount of research on my part, but I decided to go with buying a stock rubber transmission mount for my car over a urethane mount.

 

Biggest reason for choosing the rubber mount is the design of my car’s transmission cross member.

With a Fox Body Mustang, the transmission cross member has bushings in it to dampen driveline vibrations and to adjust the position of the cross member itself.  Those cross member bushings are why not too many Fox Body owners have excessive vibration issues with the urethane transmission mounts.

 

In an SN95 Mustang though (the car I’m working with), the transmission cross member has no bushings in it.  It’s just a completely solid piece of steel that doesn’t dampen any vibrations whatsoever.  If I were to put a urethane transmission mount in my car, it’ll more than likely shake and vibrate the whole thing to the point that I couldn’t stand it.  I don’t think I’ll be having those possible vibration issues with a rubber mount.  This solid transmission cross member is why I’m using a rubber mount in my car.

 

Transmission rebuild will be happening some time soon.

Edited January 15, 2017 by BrettNorton

[RassCar]

For some reason pics in your last two posts aren't working for me

[BrettNorton]

On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 0:08 AM, RassCar said:

For some reason pics in your last two posts aren't working for me

 

It's probably because of me getting a new phone.  It uses Google Photos, so that probably has something to do with you not being able to see the pics.

[BrettNorton]

On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 0:08 AM, RassCar said:

For some reason pics in your last two posts aren't working for me

 

OK, I think the pic issues are fixed now.

[BrettNorton]

January 2017,

 

Had work off this weekend so that I could rebuild the T5 transmission for my Mustang.

First of all, I’ve gotta mention my little shop buddy that I’ve had here with me lately.  A stray cat I found a few months ago that was pretty much out living with the cows (I live in a rural country-type of area, which is to be expected in Kansas lol) and surviving somehow.  I don’t have a name for her though, I just call her Cat lol.

 

It seems like somebody used to own this cat in their house, and just decided to abandon it one day for whatever reason.  Her front paws have been declawed, she seems to have been spayed some time in the past, and she appeared to be reasonably healthy when I found her.  The thing that amazes me the most about this cat though (and why I think she’s worth keeping around), is that it’s surprisingly tame, calm, and loving, not just for a stray cat, but for any kind of cat in general.  She meows a lot, but she’s not all jumpy, scared, and people-hating like most little asshole cats are lol.

Just to show how chill this damn cat is, I was running the loud-ass air compressor and some loud-ass air tools a few days ago (cleaning some transmission parts), and this is what she was doing behind me the whole time.

 

I took her in, feed her food and water every day, give her some treats every now and then, make sure her litter box doesn’t get too shitty (literally), and just make sure she’s got everything she needs to live.  She’s gotten pretty attached to me in the short time I’ve had her.  Sadly though, cat’s gotta stay out in the shop since the house has to stay clean, and apparently she sheds too much hair to live in a clean house.  So she sleeps on my Mustang’s back seat in the shop every night.

 

Well, reason I’m mentioning this cat is because she was jumping up on me all the time today (trying to get my attention) while I was working on the transmission.  Something she does all the time now.

 

Anyway, on to the transmission rebuild.  What you all are came here to read about.

Once again, I’m posting these T5 transmission videos with Paul Cangialosi and Eric the Car Guy to better explain what all I did to rebuild my transmission.

 

 

 

 

Hammered the front counter gear bearing race into the case.  It was a bitch to get it seated all the way.

 

Reverse gear installed, counter gear endplay set, and counter gear stabilizer plate installed.

 

Shit!  Cows broke down the gate and ran loose!  Had to wrangle them back in and feed them their hay.

 

Found this fancy little stool vice to rebuild the main shaft

 

Main shaft all put back together with new synchronizer rings, bearings, etc.

 

Shift forks (with new shift fork pads) put back into the top cover

 

The grand reunion!  Main shaft put back into the case.

 

The 5 – Reverse shift fork has a roll pin holding it onto the 5 – Reverse shift rail.  Punching that pin in while keeping that rail in place was a real hemorrhoid to do.  Er, I mean pain in the ass to do.

 

Tail housing reassembled with the output shaft seal, mid-pipe hanger, transmission mount, and transmission vent cap.

 

Tail housing installed

 

Input shaft installed, main shaft endplay set, and front bearing retainer installed.

 

Shifter installed and shift stops set.

 

Finally!  Yes!  The transmission’s rebuilt and ready to go into the car!

 

 

I bolted the handle onto the shifter, went through the all the gears, and each one feels real good.  They all required a pretty good amount of effort to turn (especially 5^th and reverse), but I’m sure that’s due to the transmission assembly gel I was using.  That shit was REALLY thick because of the cold weather these days, and I put it on every single bearing in the transmission.

 

I’m sure that’s why it was pretty difficult for me to spin all the gears by hand.  Even so, I bet that things won’t be so hard to turn once the transmission gets ATF in it and gets broken in.

Welp, transmission’s bagged up right next to the engine and ready to go.  Next step of the project here is to buy a clutch, get the motor and trans bolted together, and drop both into the car.

 

 

 

[Blackmage]

scrub that engine bay up while its still outside and nothings in it  

[BrettNorton]

12 hours ago, Blackmage said:

scrub that engine bay up while its still outside and nothings in it  

 

lol Yeah I should probably get to that when it gets warmer out.  See the turd on the steering rack?  Gotta get that thing out of there BAD.

[RassCar]

Great stuff! BTW, those pics do work for me now.

[BrettNorton]

January 2017,

 

This past weekend, work was cancelled for me because of fixes / renovations being done to the building I work in.  With no work, I decided to get in my car and just drive around Kansas.  It’s something I like to do when I’ve got a day to myself, with no obligation to do anything or be anywhere.  I’ve put a shitload of miles on my daily driver over the years because of this.

 

 

 

 

 

My driving around last weekend took me to a small town called Independence, KS which is in the southeastern end of Kansas and about 3 hours south of where I live.  I was minding my own business, driving around, admiring the scenery of the town and everything.  Just as I was about to drive out of Independence, this thing sitting near a little run-down motel-like apartment complex caught my eye.

 

“HOLY HORSE SHIT!!!” I thought to myself.  “A black Mustang just like mine!  Looks like it’s been sitting back there for years!”  I pulled up to the car, looked around / inspected it, and learned a few things about it:

1)      The car wasn’t originally black.  The underside of the hood, the rest of the engine bay, and the insides of the doors were yellow, so the whole thing was probably originally yellow way back in the day.

2)      The car was a 1995 V6 auto Mustang with 138,000 miles on it.  Supposedly, it was parked due to transmission issues.

3)      The body was pretty beat up, the windshield was smashed, and the paint job was pretty shitty.

4)      The interior was filled with junk, and quite a few of the interior parts themselves were missing.

5)      Like the interior, there were also quite a few under hood parts missing too.

6)      The plate had a 2014 tag on it, so the car itself hadn’t been on the road in over 2 years.

So yeah, that 1995 Mustang I found was pretty worthless sitting the way it was.  However, it had one part on it that wasn’t missing or messed up in some way, and it’s the only body part that my 1994 Mustang is missing.  THE FRONT BUMPER!!!

 

 

I never got a good picture of it, but that bumper I pulled off of my car 2½ years ago was torn and fucked up due to a little deer hit-and-run.  For some stupid reason, I decided to junk the thing instead of fix it.  Ever since junking that ripped up bumper, I’ve DREADED the day that I’d have to go out and try to find one that looked like the rest of my car (old, worn out, shitty black paint), but wasn’t structurally damaged somehow.

As luck would have it though, the front bumper on that 1995 Mustang I found in Independence was PERFECT.  The black paint on it was shitty.  The clear coat on it was shitty.  The paint itself had all sorts of chips, cracks, scratches, scrapes, and scuffs on it from years and years of abuse.  Yet somehow, even though it was pretty beat up, the bumper itself was completely intact (structurally speaking, that is).

With that in mind, I set out to find the owner of that 1995 Mustang.  Thankfully, I found the car’s owner in the apartment complex where I found the car.  Oddly enough, this 1995 Mustang owner lady had the exact same first name as the name of the lady I bought my 1994 Mustang from back in 2014.  Weird.  Anyway, I offered to pay her for the bumper, but to my surprise, she said that I could just take it for free since I offered to pay for it instead of stealing it.  Plus, the car that the bumper was attached to was just worth absolutely nothing, so she saw no point in making someone pay money for a simple little body part off of it.  That was too nice of her.

With my limited amount of tools on hand, I had that bumper off pretty quickly, and made sure to put the headlights and everything else back exactly how I found it.  I would’ve taken that headlight panel off too, but the middle part of it where the little pony emblem mounts to was broken off.  Plus, I kinda destroyed it by taking the front bumper off of it lol.

 

Loaded the bumper up in the old daily driver Volvo, and made my way back home.

 

[BrettNorton]

January 2017,

 

Some better pics of the bumper itself and the condition it’s in.

 

These little studs use nuts to secure the sides of the bumper to the front fenders (you can also see that this bumper was neither black nor yellow originally WTF).

 

Most of the time (like when I took the torn bumper off of my car) those bumper-to-fender studs are all rusted up and snap in half when you take the nuts off.  Thankfully the studs on this new-ish bumper weren’t all too rusty and didn’t snap off on me (having WD40 with me didn’t hurt either).

The baked clear coat on this bumper looks exactly like the baked clear coat on my car.

 

The pic might not show it too well, but this bumper’s got plenty of wear and tear on it, which matches the rest of the car that it’s going on to.

 

Another shot of the exposed original paint on the bottom of the bumper.

 

Seems like the bumper was patched sometime in the past.  Oh well, doesn’t matter to me.

 

After getting the bumper, I bought a new headlight panel and the little pony grill emblem to complete the front end of my car (minus the headlights).

The headlight panel, from Late Model Restoration, didn’t have the nice fit and finish that I remember the OEM headlight panel having.  But, that’s to be expected with pretty much any aftermarket body part for any car.

 

This pony grill emblem is also from Late Model Restoration (sold under the name of Daniel Carpenter Restoration) and it looks very nice.  It even came with the torx screws needed to mount it to the headlight panel.

 

Should be able to put this front bumper and stuff on some time soon.

[BrettNorton]

February 2017,

 

Got around to putting the front bumper on yesterday.

As I expected, the headlight panel I bought from Late Model Restoration didn’t fit quite right on my car.  Sure, the pony grill emblem bolted right on and the attachments on each edge of the headlight panel to the fenders lined up.

 

But the problems I had were where the headlight panel bolts onto the core support.  The bolt holes (or slots I should say) there just didn’t quite line up right.  They took a little bit of “massaging” to line up, but even then, the bolts just didn’t completely go on exactly perfectly.

 

As for the bumper itself, it went on without too much trouble.  The tabs / tongues that go into the bottom of the headlight panel were right on.  The studs that go into the fenders were right on.  The push pin holes that hold the bottom of the bumper to the bottom of the core support were right on (bought some new push pins for that too).

Couldn’t find any of those plastic body pins that were big and long enough (lol dat means two tings lol) to fasten the top of the bumper to the top of the headlight panel.  So I put through-bolts through it.

 

The plastic nuts that help fasten the back ends of the bumper to the bottom of the fenders were missing from my car, so I through-bolted them as well.

 

Did my best to put the inner fender liners back in (dusty since they’ve been in a barn for 2 years lol).  You can also see where that through-bolt is at the back end of the bumper (left end of the pic).

 

Another thing to be expected with probably just about any bumper replacement.  The bumper-to-fender gaps aren’t quite straight on both sides of my car.  But then again, the whole thing looks like an open autopsy, so who gives a shit?

 

And just like that, my car’s got a (ugly) face again!  I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, the wear, tear, and shitty-ass paint on that front bumper matches the rest of the car PERFECTLY!

 

 

 

 

This is a HUGE milestone for my car!  Because as I mentioned before, I thought that finding a front bumper like this (black, worn out, and beat up without any rips, tears, or holes) was going to be a COMPLETE PITFA for me to do.  Probably about 90% or so of the 94-98 Mustang front bumpers in junkyards are either structurally damaged somehow or completely missing altogether.  Plus, there are never really any people in my area selling 94-98 Mustang front bumpers on E-bay or Craigslist.  So finding that perfect black front bumper in Independence, KS FOR FREE was an EXTREME stroke of luck for me.

Still waiting and saving up money to bolt the engine and transmission together.

 

[Blackmage]

you can manipulate the plates on the backside of the bumper that attach to the fender, along with the rods that hold the bottom of the front of the fender to help close up that gap where the bumper meets the fender.  you can get rid of it, just need to massage all the right places

[BrettNorton]

On ‎3‎/‎2‎/‎2017 at 0:14 PM, Blackmage said:

you can manipulate the plates on the backside of the bumper that attach to the fender, along with the rods that hold the bottom of the front of the fender to help close up that gap where the bumper meets the fender.  you can get rid of it, just need to massage all the right places

 

Yeah, my car's bumper gaps are hanging low towards the rear of where they meet the fenders.  Probably those backside bumper plates that need to be adjusted, however that gets done, to make the gaps straight.

 

Honestly though, I doubt I'll get around to messing with any of that stuff.  I'm going for a POS modern-day rat rod look for my car, and I don't think that a small bumper misalignment will be a big deal for me.  I appreciate you pointing that out though.  One more piece of info I can use to turn my pile o' shit into something that's less of an eyesore after college.

[BrettNorton]

March 2017,

 

Right now, I’m in school and slowly saving up money from my weekend job to buy more Mustang parts.  I’m specifically saving for the parts I need to bolt the engine and transmission together and drop both into my Mustang.  However, I still need something to actually pick the motor and trans up in order to drop them both into the car.  Luckily for me though, I got the solution for it just yesterday.

I would’ve liked to be able to use my grandpa’s tractor again (what I used to pull the old motor and trans out), but it’s not too practical for dropping an engine and transmission into a car.  The hydraulics would need to be controlled from inside the cab, and I won’t exactly be able to see where the motor and trans are going from inside the cab of the tractor.  Even with two people (one running the hydraulics and the other guiding the motor and trans in), the tractor’s loud-ass engine would make communications real difficult.

 

My grandpa’s also got this cable hanging from the ceiling of his shop.  It could lift and hold the 500 lbs. of engine and transmission with ease.  That would be nice too, but the motor and trans would only be able to hang in just one place the whole time.  Plus, the cable itself is real slow to raise and lower.  Any adjustments needing to be made would require the motor and trans to be sloooooooowwwwly lifted up, the whole damn car would have to be jacked up and moved around, then the motor and trans would be sloooooooowwwwly lowered back down.  That whole process would just be a time-wasting dammit-all-to-hell affair.

 

Just last weekend though, I found the solution to my motor and trans lifting problem.  I was looking through one of those Car and Driver magazines at work, and I stumbled on the good ol’ Harbor Freight coupons page.  In it was a coupon for a 1 ton engine hoist for only $99, which my boss was kind and generous enough let me cut out.  I went to Harbor Freight the next day, bought that 1 ton engine hoist for only $111, and brought it home.  Put it all together last night.  WOOT, $100 ENGINE HOIST!!!

  

I still don’t have too much disposable income right now, and I’m doing my best to save up for more Mustang parts.  But like the front bumper situation, that $100 engine hoist was just too good of a deal to pass up.

[ttocs]

I always weigh the risk/reward of buying tools from harbor freight.....  I found a friend that would let me bum his hoist when I needed one.

[BrettNorton]

20 hours ago, ttocs said:

I always weigh the risk/reward of buying tools from harbor freight.....  I found a friend that would let me bum his hoist when I needed one.

 

Your buddy's loaning you his Harbor Freight hoist, isn't he?

[BrettNorton]

May 2017,

 

Another lucky find for me today.  I’m starting to think that these great deals I’ve been coming across lately are some kind of good karma for me after getting screwed over on a Craigslist “deal” almost 2 years ago.  In a nutshell, I paid a guy for the drivetrain out of this 1986 Mercury Capri RS that ran and drove, the guy ended up junking the body and reselling all those good drivetrain parts to people other than me, and then he pretty much got his ass out of the Kansas City area to run away from me and whomever else was after him.

 

Anywho, on my way home from work last weekend, I saw a junk Mustang sitting in someone’s yard.  From a distance, I could tell it was a 94-95 due to the horizontal taillights.  Up close though, I found that it was actually a 94-95 5.0 Mustang GT since it had a GT rear bumper on it.  Like any other car that I pull parts off of, it seemed like that car wasn’t really worth anything.  Especially considering that it had no motor or trans, the whole front clip of it was gone, the interior was trashed, and it was sitting on an old flatbed truck.

 

I found the owner of the property and the Mustang, and asked him if I could take some parts off of it.  The guy said that the car was going to the crusher next week (by crusher, he meant driving one of those two Chevy mudding trucks over the Mustang lol), and if I bought him a case of beer, I could take whatever I wanted before he crushed it.  Eh, fair deal.  A 30-pack of Keystone Light was only $16 at Walmart lol.

 

After the quick beer trip, I tore into that old 5.0 Mustang to pull out some of the parts I wanted.  Once I was finished up, the property owner and I bullshitted and talked about about car / truck stuff over a few of the beers I just bought for him.  Pretty cool dude.  Loves his 4X4 Chevys.

Now on to the parts I actually got from that junk Mustang GT. 

150 MPH gauge cluster.  The cluster itself looks pretty good, I guess.  It’s gonna need a plastic screen since the old one seems to have been ripped off, and I’ll probably have to put a new odometer gear in it.

 

T4M0 PCM.  To my surprise, this T4M0 computer was in the car, which is basically what was used to control 94-95 5.0 5-speed Mustangs.

 

Sadly though, it looks like somebody pulled the chip out of it before I got my hands on it.

 

Now I’m glad that I found a proper gauge cluster for my car, but I’m not too sure if this PCM will work right for me, or if I’ll even need it at all.  I’ll be buying a Holley carb and an HEI-style distributor for my engine, so I’m obviously not gonna need a computer to run it.  The reason why I bought this computer though, is because of how I think my car’s speedometer is set up.  IIRC, the speedometer circuit in 94-98 Mustangs goes through the PCM to move the speedo needle around in the gauge cluster.  I don’t know for sure whether that’s true or not, but if so, will the PCM I bought even work the speedometer since it doesn’t even have a chip in it?

[sn95islife]

sick build love seeing this thing being brought back to life and the engine build looks like its gong to make good power keep up the good work man!

[BrettNorton]

On ‎5‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 2:33 AM, sn95islife said:

sick build love seeing this thing being brought back to life and the engine build looks like its gong to make good power keep up the good work man!

 

Thanks dude, I guess you could say the car's being brought back to life even though it's still gonna look like a POS lol.

 

Regarding the power of the motor though, I'm sadly thinking that it's only going to end up making about 300 horsepower or so.  It's got some nice out-of-the-box Trick Flow heads on it, but the Trick Flow cam in it is a pretty mild one, and it's only going to be making 9.4:1 compression.  In a nutshell, the cam's too small and the compression's too low for my engine to make any real good power numbers.

 

At least it'll run well on 91 octane, which is the best gas Kansas has to offer lol.

[BrettNorton]

May 2017,

 

My good karma streak continues, ‘cause I found myself more parts for my Mustang that I’m pretty sure I got a nice deal on.

Last weekend, there was an auto parts swap meet going on at the fairgrounds here in Lawrence.  It was basically a bunch of rednecks and old dudes trying to liquidate some of the parts that they didn’t need anymore.  Loooooooooots of old Chevy stuff there.

Within all the rows of small block Chevy parts and Chevy truck parts, there was a younger guy selling off some Mustang stuff that he didn’t need anymore.  He was selling a set of wheels that I wanted for my Mustang, but I didn’t have any cash on me at the time.  I told him, “Hey man, I don’t have any cash on me right now, but if you can’t get these wheels sold this weekend, I’d love to meet up with you to buy them sometime.”  Happily, he agreed, even though our schedules would be difficult to line up.

Well, we finally met up last night, and for only $200, I came home with THESE.

 

As you can all probably tell, these are a complete set of old Cobra R wheels.  This style of wheel came on all 1995 Cobra R Mustangs, all 1998 Mustang Cobras, and was offered in the aftermarket by Ford Racing for many years.  I’m pretty sure these wheels I’ve got here were made by Ford Racing since they’ve got the Cobra R center caps (1998 Cobras had center caps that just said “SVT” on them), and there’s no way in hell that they came off of a real Cobra R Mustang.

Getting a closer look at these wheels, you can see that they’ve clearly been used and abused.  The chrome is starting to peel off of each one, they all have some corrosion going on, and they’re all covered in brake dust.  THEY’RE EXACTLY WHAT I HOPED I WOULD GET!!!  THEY’LL MATCH THE REST OF MY CAR’S SHITTY POS RAT ROD LOOK PERFECTLY!!!

 

When I first brought these wheels home, I thought they had a width of 8” like what the factory used.  However, I later measured them out to actually be 9” wide.  That means I’ll be able to put some pretty wide-ass tires on them (up to 275’s IIRC).

 

Obviously, only two of the wheels have tires on them, but the tread on both are completely gone.  I’ll be getting two more shitty-ass tires for the other two tireless wheels (to bolt all the wheels onto the car and be able to roll it around), and eventually, I’ll buy some much nicer summer-type tires for them.  I’m thinking some NT555 Nittos will be a nice upgrade over these lol.

 

The clutch and a bunch of other little parts to bolt the engine and transmission together should be here soon.    

[RassCar]

I don't know why, but any post you make with pics in it turns the text black. Makes it a PITA to read on my phone.

Ninja edit: changing the theme helps a whole lot on my end.

Edited May 13, 2017 by RassCar

[sn95islife]

20 hours ago, BrettNorton said:

 

Thanks dude, I guess you could say the car's being brought back to life even though it's still gonna look like a POS lol.

 

Regarding the power of the motor though, I'm sadly thinking that it's only going to end up making about 300 horsepower or so.  It's got some nice out-of-the-box Trick Flow heads on it, but the Trick Flow cam in it is a pretty mild one, and it's only going to be making 9.4:1 compression.  In a nutshell, the cam's too small and the compression's too low for my engine to make any real good power numbers.

 

At least it'll run well on 91 octane, which is the best gas Kansas has to offer lol.

Hey its whats on the inside that counts anyway right lol and atleast with the engine you know whats in it and can always change it later if its not satisfying or leave it alone and use that low compression to run a nice turbo setup ?

[Prokiller]

On 5/12/2017 at 9:17 PM, BrettNorton said:

May 2017,

 

My good karma streak continues, ‘cause I found myself more parts for my Mustang that I’m pretty sure I got a nice deal on.

Last weekend, there was an auto parts swap meet going on at the fairgrounds here in Lawrence.  It was basically a bunch of rednecks and old dudes trying to liquidate some of the parts that they didn’t need anymore.  Loooooooooots of old Chevy stuff there.

Within all the rows of small block Chevy parts and Chevy truck parts, there was a younger guy selling off some Mustang stuff that he didn’t need anymore.  He was selling a set of wheels that I wanted for my Mustang, but I didn’t have any cash on me at the time.  I told him, “Hey man, I don’t have any cash on me right now, but if you can’t get these wheels sold this weekend, I’d love to meet up with you to buy them sometime.”  Happily, he agreed, even though our schedules would be difficult to line up.

Well, we finally met up last night, and for only $200, I came home with THESE.

 

As you can all probably tell, these are a complete set of old Cobra R wheels.  This style of wheel came on all 1995 Cobra R Mustangs, all 1998 Mustang Cobras, and was offered in the aftermarket by Ford Racing for many years.  I’m pretty sure these wheels I’ve got here were made by Ford Racing since they’ve got the Cobra R center caps (1998 Cobras had center caps that just said “SVT” on them), and there’s no way in hell that they came off of a real Cobra R Mustang.

Getting a closer look at these wheels, you can see that they’ve clearly been used and abused.  The chrome is starting to peel off of each one, they all have some corrosion going on, and they’re all covered in brake dust.  THEY’RE EXACTLY WHAT I HOPED I WOULD GET!!!  THEY’LL MATCH THE REST OF MY CAR’S SHITTY POS RAT ROD LOOK PERFECTLY!!!

 

When I first brought these wheels home, I thought they had a width of 8” like what the factory used.  However, I later measured them out to actually be 9” wide.  That means I’ll be able to put some pretty wide-ass tires on them (up to 275’s IIRC).

 

Obviously, only two of the wheels have tires on them, but the tread on both are completely gone.  I’ll be getting two more shitty-ass tires for the other two tireless wheels (to bolt all the wheels onto the car and be able to roll it around), and eventually, I’ll buy some much nicer summer-type tires for them.  I’m thinking some NT555 Nittos will be a nice upgrade over these lol.

 

The clutch and a bunch of other little parts to bolt the engine and transmission together should be here soon.    

the wheels should have a stamp on the back of the spokes to tell you the size.  if there isn't a Ford Racing stamp on it, they are aftermarket.  which judging by the flaking chrome, that is most likely the case.

 

and you're not exactly wrong, but the cobra R wheels are not identical to the 98 cobra wheels.  They 95R's have more a flat face which the aftermarkets are modeled after.  the 98's have more of an arch to the spokes.  you put them right next to each other, you'll see the difference.  

[BrettNorton]

On ‎5‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 8:55 AM, Prokiller said:

the wheels should have a stamp on the back of the spokes to tell you the size.  if there isn't a Ford Racing stamp on it, they are aftermarket.  which judging by the flaking chrome, that is most likely the case.

 

and you're not exactly wrong, but the cobra R wheels are not identical to the 98 cobra wheels.  They 95R's have more a flat face which the aftermarkets are modeled after.  the 98's have more of an arch to the spokes.  you put them right next to each other, you'll see the difference.  

 

I got around to looking at the wheels earlier today.  They say 17 X 9 on the back just like I thought they would, there's a stamp on the back of them that says MADE IN JAPAN, but I couldn't see any Ford Racing stamp.  IDK if Ford Racing outsourced these wheels to Japan or not, but you're probably right about them being aftermarket.

 

Either way though, they seem to be good wheels.  They roll across a flat floor nicely, and they don't have a shit-ton of balancing weights on them or anything.

[Prokiller]

8 hours ago, BrettNorton said:

 

I got around to looking at the wheels earlier today.  They say 17 X 9 on the back just like I thought they would, there's a stamp on the back of them that says MADE IN JAPAN, but I couldn't see any Ford Racing stamp.  IDK if Ford Racing outsourced these wheels to Japan or not, but you're probably right about them being aftermarket.

 

Either way though, they seem to be good wheels.  They roll across a flat floor nicely, and they don't have a shit-ton of balancing weights on them or anything.

like you said, either way, for that price, you can't complain.

[BrettNorton]

May 2017,

 

Getting ready to put the engine and transmission into my Mustang.

This is a 157-tooth flywheel from Ford Racing.  Since I’ve got my hands on a 94-95 5.0 T5 bellhousing, something I thought wouldn’t happen before, I bought this 157-tooth flywheel to replace the 164-tooth one I bought over a year ago.

 

Something I noticed when I put the flywheels next to each other was the size of both of them.  That 164-tooth flywheel is a lllllooooooot thicker and a good bit heavier than the 157-tooth one.  I’m sure that putting the 157-tooth flywheel in will help with keeping the rotating mass of the motor down.  157-tooth flywheel on the right, 164-tooth flywheel on the left.

 

 

SVE high-torque mini starter.  I’ve heard good things about this starter, and it seems pretty simple to wire up and install.  Figured I might as well buy it now and install it BEFORE the motor goes into the car. With my car’s stock K-member having very little working space, it would be a bitch of a job to try and get this starter installed with the motor in the car.  Much easier of a job to install it outside of the car.

 

Sadly, I think my starter slipped through quality control somehow.  The upper stud on the starter solenoid (what the positive battery cable attaches to) was a little stripped out.

 

Luckily though, I was able to use the nut on that stud to recondition the threads somewhat.

10-spline Ram HDX clutch.  It’s basically one of those stage 1 type clutches that’s a slight upgrade over stock.  The disc itself has more aggressive friction materials in it than the factory stock clutch, the clamp load of the pressure plate is higher than stock, and the whole thing holds up to about 400 HP or so.  Even with the more aggressive friction materials and the higher clamp load, this clutch is still very streetable as it won’t be too chattery and difficult to release with the clutch pedal.

 

Along with the new clutch, I bought a new clutch fork, throw out bearing, and clutch fork stud.  All Ford Racing parts.

The Ram clutch came with a throw out bearing, but I don’t completely trust the quality of it.  So I bought a much higher-quality OE Ford throw out bearing.

 

The bellhousing I bought did have a clutch fork stud in it, but that old stud was all rusty and worn out.  Replaced it with a new OE Ford clutch fork stud.

 

The clutch fork itself, well I just didn’t have one at all.  So I bought an OE Ford clutch fork for my car.

 

Bought some bellhousing bolts from 5.0Resto.  They attach the bellhousing to the engine block.

 

And finally, I bought some of these little bellhousing dowel pins.  These pins go into the back of the engine block and help align the bellhousing to the block.  Bought a new pair of these pins because my engine’s missing one of them.

 

Should be able to put all this stuff together, bolt the transmission up to the engine, and drop both into the car sometime next week.

[BrettNorton]

May 2017,

 

I did a little bit of googling, and found out about the switches on the pedal assembly that I was confused about.

 

This switch here next to the clutch pedal is the clutch pedal position switch.  It basically keeps the car from starting if the clutch pedal isn’t pressed.  The switch is always open and only closes when the clutch pedal is pressed.  When closed, this switch allows power to go from the fuse box, to the ignition switch, and finally to the starter solenoid trigger wire.

 

However, since my car was originally an auto trans car, the clutch pedal switch connector was jumped from the factory to bypass the non-existent clutch pedal switch.

 

So honestly, I’m not gonna need that clutch pedal position switch in my car at all.

This switch next to the brake pedal, but connected to the clutch pedal, is the cruise control cancel switch.  The switch is always closed, but when the clutch pedal is pressed, the switch opens, disabling the cruise control.  I ripped the whole cruise control system out of my car, so I won’t need this switch either.

 

Lastly, this switch connected to the brake pedal is a brake vacuum switch.  Since the cruise control system in 94-95 Mustangs is run off of a vacuum canister, this switch creates a vacuum leak in the system when the brake pedal is pressed, thus disabling the cruise control.  Again, I won’t need this switch in my car since its cruise control system is gone.

Edited May 20, 2017 by BrettNorton

[BrettNorton]

May 2017,

 

Alright ladies and gents, big day today.  It’s finally time for the Mustang to get its engine and transmission installed.

Before I say anything else, I’ll mention that anybody dropping an engine and transmission into any vehicle should have a few extra people to help out with the install.  My grandpa, dad, and one of my brothers came out to the shop to help me with bolting the motor and trans together and dropping them into the Mustang.  You might see them in a few of the pictures.  And believe me, I REALLY needed and am very grateful for their help since this motor and trans install was a 4-man job.

Let’s do this…

Started out by doing a little fix on the bellhousing.  If anyone remembers right, the hole in the clutch fork cover didn’t exactly line up with the threaded hole for the screw in the bellhousing.

 

To solve the problem, I began by drilling a small pilot hole in the bellhousing to center the screw. Because the bellhousing itself is made of fairly soft aluminum, I then carefully used a ratchet to start the clutch fork cover screw in question into the bellhousing.  This cut the threads in the bellhousing that the screw needed to hold the cover in place.

 

Uncovered the engine and prepared it for the big lift.  I did my best to plug up every single opening into the motor using a combination of masking tape, NPT plugs, latex gloves and zip ties.  Then I attached some pieces of chain (wished they weren’t so rusty) to the accessory bolt holes in the heads (much stronger than the bolt holes on top of the intake manifold) using some grade 5 bolts.  I ran the chains diagonally to form an X pattern over the motor and trans to lift them.  To keep the rusty chains from scratching the shiny heads, and to give the bolts something to tighten up against, I wrapped towels around the bolts between the shiny heads and rusty chains.

 

Took the motor off the stand for the first time with the $100 engine hoist.  While in the air, my grandpa braced the motor with a pry bar on the crank pulley bolts, and I installed the block plate, flywheel (bolts were torqued with Loctite on the threads and assembly lube under the bolt heads), and clutch (bolts were torqued with Loctite).  Should mention that I wiped the flywheel and pressure plate down with lacquer thinner before installing the clutch.

 

Moved over to the transmission on the table and installed the clutch fork stud, clutch fork + throw out bearing, and clutch fork cover into the bellhousing.  I used some of that transmission gel to grease up the input shaft splines and the front bearing retainer sleeve, then I bolted the bellhousing to the transmission.

 

With the motor and trans both ready, I raised and moved the motor to the transmission for the grand union between the two.  Engaging the input shaft into the clutch and pilot bearing, plus lining up all the bolt holes in the bellhousing to the bolt holes on the motor was no easy task, but we got ‘er dun.

 

You may notice that the upper bellhousing bolts are new and the lower bellhousing bolts are old.  That’s because in the 5.0Resto bellhousing bolt kit that I got from Late Model Restoration, two of the included bolts were too short to thread into the back of the block.

 

Thankfully, the transmission hardware kit that I got from the Midwest Mustang junkyard (that came with the T5 transmission and bellhousing I bought from them many months ago) included a full set of the proper length bellhousing bolts that I needed.

 

Also made sure to bolt the starter onto the bellhousing.  Don’t wanna forget that.

 

The grand union!  The engine and transmission are bolted together!

 

You might see here that the motor and trans aren’t hanging from the hoist any more.  That’s because when we lifted them both up, the motor was hanging pretty close to the hoist’s hydraulic cylinder.  Close enough to where the cylinder would hit against the car’s front bumper before the whole motor / trans assembly would be hanging over the engine bay.  So, we removed the motor and trans from the hoist and hooked it to my grandpa’s shop ceiling cable I mentioned before.  With the motor and trans hooked to the shop cable, we lifted them waaaaaayyyyy up into the air (probably 10 ft. lol).

 

 

Removed the hood from the Mustang and FINALLY got it rolled into the shop.

 

Here goes…

 

As I mentioned before, dropping the motor and trans into the Mustang was a 4-man job.  My grandpa lowered / operated the cable that held the motor and trans in the air.  I guided the motor into the engine bay and the motor mounts to the K-member.  My dad guided the trans through the transmission tunnel and jacked it up with a floor jack.  And my brother pushed the car forward and back whenever necessary.  This motor and trans install was basically a coordination between lowering the motor, lining up the motor mounts, jacking up the trans, and pushing the car forward.

 

 

 

I got the motor mounts set onto the K-member, but as I expected, there was a small hiccup with this motor and trans install.  When my dad was jacking up the trans, he noticed that the whole car started lifting up before the transmission cross member could go into place.  I took a look inside the car, and noticed THIS.  The shifter was hitting the transmission tunnel, keeping the trans from going up all the way.

 

So for anybody planning on putting a T5 transmission into a 94-98 Mustang that originally had an AODE or 4R70W transmission, just know that you WILL have to cut part of the transmission tunnel for the T5 shifter to go through.

For me, I just used some tin snips to trim about an inch off the front of the shifter hole.  15 minutes later, I had the clearance in the tunnel needed for the shifter.

 

Jacked the trans up all the way, manhandled the transmission cross member into place (everything was pretty tight since the tail of the trans needs to be pointing RIGHT AT the pinion flange of the rear end), and tightened the bolts for the cross member and trans mount.

 

Torqued the ever-living daylights out of the motor mount nuts.

 

Finally, my dad and I put the hood back on.

 

At long last…  MY FRIENDS, THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ARE IN THE CAR!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Now when I finished rebuilding the Mustang’s suspension back in the summer of 2015, I remember somebody saying, and I quote, “Holy 4X4 Batman!”  I don’t remember who it was that said that, but I AGREE WITH YOU.  My car has the SVE lowering springs (supposedly a 1.1” drop all around) and some Prothane spring isolators on it, but even with the motor and trans now in the car, HOLY 4X4 BATMAN.

 

 

Obviously, the 205/65/15 tires currently on the car aren’t doing its looks any justice (will be putting those Cobra R wheels and some 275/40/17 tires on it but don’t know if that’ll help).  I’m thinking that taking those spring isolators out will help drop the car to where I’d like it.

 

Hoo wee, that starter’s gonna be a fuckin’ joy to get to when the time comes.

 

Wonder if the radiator and fan will clear that water pump.  An SN95 5.0 water pump is a little shorter than the Fox 5.0 water pump that I’ve got on the motor there.

 

Other than the driver’s side motor mount (mentioned before that it was rubbing against the header tube) the headers look like they clear everything in the engine bay nicely.

 

 

Finished the day up with putting a little “bling” on the car.

 

I think the next step of the project here will be addressing the rear end situation.  Other than the whole thing being cleaned up and painted black on the outside, the rear end under my car is the exact same as when I got it from the junkyard nearly 2 years ago.  I’ll be fully rebuilding it with a set of 3.73 gears at the end of this summer.

 

Also plan on replacing the old 230,000-mile power steering rack and pinion with a manual setup.

 

Stay tuned.  I've still got more jobs to do and parts to put on during my school / work break this week.

 

[Prokiller]

congratulations on getting it in there!!!

[Josh@RideTech]

Keep it up bud!  

[RideTech_Ryan]

Nice Job on the build.  Wish i could find deals like you have lol

[BrettNorton]

May 2017,

 

Yesterday, I got around to installing a Maximum Motorsports clutch cable kit in my car.  The kit includes a non-adjustable clutch cable, a solid aluminum clutch quadrant, and a firewall-mounted clutch cable adjuster.

 

What sets this clutch cable kit apart from others is the Ford OEM clutch cable that’s included.  It’s not adjustable, but supposedly, that Ford OEM cable is much stronger and of much higher quality than every other clutch cable on the market.  Something to do with the inner lining of it having more layers of insulation than other aftermarket cables.

 

The factory self-adjusting plastic clutch quadrant is replaced with a solid aluminum clutch quadrant.  It’s not prone to wear and breakage like the plastic one is.  With the clutch pedal assembly out of the car, it’s not too hard to install.

 

Because the aluminum quadrant isn’t auto-adjusting like the plastic one, clutch cable adjustment is manually done by using a firewall adjuster included in the kit.  Since my car originally came with an auto trans, I had to drill a few holes in the firewall (can’t remember if I used a 9/64” or a 5/32” drill bit) to mount the firewall adjuster.

 

Lastly, I got this 5.0Resto brake light switch and hardware kit.  I’ll need the brake lights to be working for my car to be street legal, and the pedal assembly I’ve got is missing all of these parts that make the brake lights work.

 

Now to install this stuff…

After getting the clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster in their right places, I went to install the pedal assembly in the car.  That thing was a MOTHERFUCKER to get under the dash and lined up right.  First off, I had to detach the steering shaft from the column inside the car, and then maneuver the whole pedal assembly around the steering shaft and rat’s nest of wires under the dash.  While holding the (sorta heavy) pedal assembly in the right place, I started the upper bolt that holds it up under the dash frame.

After getting the pedal assembly right about where I wanted it, I went to put the brake booster back into place.  The brake booster has 4 studs poking out of it that go through the firewall and through the pedal assembly.  Both are attached to the firewall with nuts that thread onto the brake booster studs.  Like the pedal assembly, the brake booster was a MOTHERFUCKER to get into the right spot.  It was a pretty tight fit between the firewall, the motor, and the strut tower, but I muscled it into place.

 

The real job, the kind of job that would make a guy shame a sailor with all the cussing he’ll be doing, was getting those brake booster studs to go through the pedal assembly.  I can’t count how many times I switched between messing with the brake booster under the hood and moving the pedal assembly around inside the car.  Move the pedals this way, shift the booster that way, and repeat.  After what seemed like forever, I finally got all of the nuts started on the brake booster studs.  With the pedals and booster held in place, I hooked the brake booster pushrod and brake light switch onto the brake pedal, and tightened down all the fasteners holding the pedal assembly in place.

 

A quick note about the 5.0Resto brake light switch I got from Late Model Restoration.  The contacts on the switch lined up just fine with the contacts on the electrical connector, BUT, the retaining clip on the connector didn’t line up with the clip on the switch which prevented both from connecting together.  I just took a pair of small side cutters and cut the clip off the switch so that it could connect with the electrical connector.

 

With the firewall adjuster bolted on, the brake light switch wired up, and the pedals in the car, it was finally time for me to install the last piece of the clutch system that makes all the clutch magic happen.  The clutch cable.  All I had to do was hook one end of the cable to the clutch fork under the car, route it near the driver’s side of the oil pan, bend it around the front of the oil filter, feed it through the firewall adjuster into the inside of the car, and then hook the other end of the cable to the clutch quadrant under the dash.  Easy enough!

 

 

 

I started messing with the firewall adjuster to tighten the cable up some more, and dicked around with it for a while, getting different pedal feels and whatnot.  But honestly, I won’t be able to get the clutch cable adjusted to just the right spot at the moment.  I decided to just leave the cable all loosey-goosey for now and do the final adjustment with it when the motor’s actually running.

Finished up the day by installing a lower shifter boot on the shifter.  I had to drill two new holes in the floor to bolt it down since I cut the old bolt holes out.