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Lanter

Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

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Thanks for the answer.  Thinking about going with this kit or the MMR kit.  Looks like it'll come down to how I decide to do the wiring.  Also need to look to see if the have a fill cap option for the On3 kit.

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One more question!  How do you fill / burp the coolant system with the On3 kit?

Fill and burp will both be through the overflow tank.  The tank will now be the high point in the system and if the burping process needs help you can just supply a vacuum to the overflow tank.  There was a thread on SVTp that showed pictures of the process with the overflow tank used for the fill and burp.  I'll try to drag it up.

 

Another option which I am planning to do is to drill a couple holes in the t-stat so that coolant will flow before it opens. This should make the system not require burping but if it does I will vacuum pump any air out of the system.

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I already drill a hole or two in the thermostats anyway.  So I'm good there.  Looking at it I'm liking the On3 kit better than the MMR.  But maybe I'll get the hose fittings from On3 and the Y block with the filler neck from MMR.

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I have seen the MMR version done where it looks decent.  In my opinion both look worlds better and are more practical then the stock crossover.  I finished up the fuel system this weekend, took a lot longer than it needed as I routed the lines and made brackets to hold the FPR where I thought ascetically it looked the best.  Also it's easy to get to so adjusting will be straight forward.  Only thing on the fuel side to do is cut all the zip-ties out and final mount the lines with the supplied mounting hardware and while I take the lines back out I will cut the factory stuff out and blow all the newly made lines out to make sure there isn't anything in them that would possibly clog up the filters or injectors.

 

-08 feed splits to two -08 feeds to each rail so they are run in parallel.  Then from rails the lines flow over the passenger valve cover and into the pressure regulator.

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Those that have cleaned out fuel lines, do you just shoot compressed air down them or use a liquid of some sort... perhaps poor gas down the lines.  Never cleaned out fuel lines so I am not entirely sure of what process to do.

 

Next on the list is wiring up all the electronics and battery relocation kit.  Then I need to place an order for a maf and tuner along with the start up tune then I can fire it up and brake the engine in before its time to store it for winter.  Then trans and clutch and some odds and ends like seats, tail lights, ect and she should be ready for MW2016.   B-)

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One question,  for those who have went to external fuel pumps and are triggering them with the factory fuel pump wiring.  Does anyone have the wiring schematics so I can know which wire to cut in order to trigger my relay board.  

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Got a couple tasks knocked out this weekend.  Started by pulling all the original fuel lines out of the car along with the factory fuel filter and bracket.  I was hoping to get them out in one piece but with the sub-frame connectors being in the way I just elected to cut them out.  I then blew out all the new fuel lines and mounted them into the car for the last time.  I used the stock brackets where I could and riveted them into place so they are nice and solid.  I also started installing the battery relocation kit.  I still need to get the power wire routed back under the RSD and to the box but the hard part is done with drilling a hole to get through the fire wall.  I also decided to wrap the cable with texflex to help hide it a little.

 

The return line was just long enough to route it parallel to the pump feed line.  I was nervous as I new it would bother me if the lines didn't flow together, but in the end it worked out.

 

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Other small tasks I finished included replacing the pedal covers, re-installing the AC lines (except for one, looks like it will need at least one custom line to fit), also mocked up the exports to see how they will look.  At the end of the day I took them back off though and boxed them up to keep them safe while I finish the car.

 

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I have been in talks with Kurgan to get a start up tune and maf for the car so once those come in I can really think about the first start up and begin the break in process.

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mmm exports.  and i really like the fact that the sumped tank is all black with black fittings.  doesn't draw the eye away from the car that way.

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mmm exports.  and i really like the fact that the sumped tank is all black with black fittings.  doesn't draw the eye away from the car that way.

 

Thanks, it's starting to grow on me more and more.  Though I can't help but wish my car was a different color so I could take advantage and have color matched parts that would give it contrast and get away from one color.  I love body color matched roll bars or sumped tanks like Haterbuilt's.  Which mine are but it becomes a sea of black lol.

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That's why I'm going to use grey/silver where I can. Especially since mine is all satin black.

Everything gets to lookin unfinished when all is satin/flat.

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

 

Probably something I should have done...but to far to look back now.  I think my wife would have a heart attack if I tore the car back apart to re-coat everything.   Maybe down the line when I get the itch to change stuff around, way down the road though!!!

Nice thing about a black car is that every color is a contrasting color.  The world is your oyster!

 

This is true.  My issue is picking a color that won't clash.  For instance I love ford blue valve covers but also like red brake calipers so I would have trouble going all red accent and then having the blue valve covers... The struggles of nit picking everything I suppose.   If I ever go to re-coat the roll bar I think it will be a dark grey or red so at least that will add a splash of color.  The AN fittings and black coated lines are all there to stay though lol

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This is true.  My issue is picking a color that won't clash.  For instance I love ford blue valve covers but also like red brake calipers so I would have trouble going all red accent and then having the blue valve covers... The struggles of nit picking everything I suppose.   If I ever go to re-coat the roll bar I think it will be a dark grey or red so at least that will add a splash of color.  The AN fittings and black coated lines are all there to stay though lol

 

I'm tellin' ya, Ford blue calipers and suspension goodies would look pretty damn good!

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I'm tellin' ya, Ford blue calipers and suspension goodies would look pretty damn good!

I have seen a couple cars with bright blue calipers and they do pop for sure, my hesitation with that route would be taking your eye away from the chrome lemans.  I am sure I will figure something out but for now the car will be subtle with details that take a trained eye to spot.

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I have seen a couple cars with bright blue calipers and they do pop for sure, my hesitation with that route would be taking your eye away from the chrome lemans.  I am sure I will figure something out but for now the car will be subtle with details that take a trained eye to spot.

 

I seriously doubt they would take away from chrome LeMans.  It's hard for anything to beat out chrome visually; the calipers would be the second thing that catches one's eye for sure.

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Probably something I should have done...but to far to look back now.  I think my wife would have a heart attack if I tore the car back apart to re-coat everything.   Maybe down the line when I get the itch to change stuff around, way down the road though!!!

 

This is true.  My issue is picking a color that won't clash.  For instance I love ford blue valve covers but also like red brake calipers so I would have trouble going all red accent and then having the blue valve covers... The struggles of nit picking everything I suppose.   If I ever go to re-coat the roll bar I think it will be a dark grey or red so at least that will add a splash of color.  The AN fittings and black coated lines are all there to stay though lol

Red if done right usually looks badass with black.  If your thinking of maybe doing the roll bar and brakes in red, then why not have the cam covers in red also.  I know you love blue covers...  but it'll help tie everything into one another if red.

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Red if done right usually looks badass with black.  If your thinking of maybe doing the roll bar and brakes in red, then why not have the cam covers in red also.  I know you love blue covers...  but it'll help tie everything into one another if red.

True, red covers would look fine and be worth it to have a gloss red cage.  And luckily I don't have anything blue so the valve covers would be the only thing that would need redone.  I am going to try and get the car done first and not think about these new ideas since I am really not wanting to tear the car all apart again :lol:  

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I was really hoping it was going to be two turbos but these will do!

Haha two turbos would be insane. Though to be honest I really like the sound of a big single. Now I have to figure out tires. Decisions decisions. Lol.

What are they widened to?

10.5". Planning to run a 305 tire of the drag radial variety.

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Haha two turbos would be insane. Though to be honest I really like the sound of a big single. Now I have to figure out tires. Decisions decisions. Lol.

10.5". Planning to run a 305 tire of the drag radial variety.

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Are you running a manual or a auto trans?  

 

If the manual then I strongly recommend looking into a bias-ply tire.  Drag radials don't cushion the hit of the tire like a bias-ply would.  They either spin or dead hook.  

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Are you running a manual or a auto trans?

If the manual then I strongly recommend looking into a bias-ply tire. Drag radials don't cushion the hit of the tire like a bias-ply would. They either spin or dead hook.

Cars getting a close ratio magnum. This will be more a street car then drag so by drag radials I'm meaning something like a toyo r888 or a set of mickey et street II's. I just don't want a car that's useless under 70 mph.

Though I am open to suggestions if someone has run a true street tire that hooks ok (I am realistic and know that's a tall order).  I would love to get something that has good street manners with decent tread life.

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I've have MT ET Street radials on the notch and plan to change to ET Street bias-ply.  

I've broken 3 axles and a ring and pinion.  The notch has no where near the power your gonna be making.  If you plan on running every so often then you might be fine.  But if you plan on running a lot I would at least plan to upgrade the rear if you haven't already.  

 

Just know that you probably shouldn't be dumping the clutch at 4k + rpm at the track. :blink:   You'll have to ease into it and slip the clutch some to get a good launch.  That'll help keep from blowing the tires off or breaking parts.

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I've have MT ET Street radials on the notch and plan to change to ET Street bias-ply.  

I've broken 3 axles and a ring and pinion.  The notch has no where near the power your gonna be making.  If you plan on running every so often then you might be fine.  But if you plan on running a lot I would at least plan to upgrade the rear if you haven't already.  

 

Just know that you probably shouldn't be dumping the clutch at 4k + rpm at the track. :blink:   You'll have to ease into it and slip the clutch some to get a good launch.  That'll help keep from blowing the tires off or breaking parts.

 

The rear will be built in one fashion or another... plans are to baby the stock rear until an IRS comes around then go that route.  I drool over every SN I see with an IRS plus the offset on my rear wheels will be suited pretty well for the added track width of an IRS.   

 

And you're absolutely right about easing the launches, in that the very rare occasion this car makes it to a drag strip it will be babied out of the hole.  60' times will be terrible lol, but hopefully it can make up for the disappointment off the line with an impressive trap speed.

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I have 315 MT ET Streets on my car with quite a few street pulls on them and have been happy with them.  On 17lbs the car makes just barely under 700whp and I have to peddle second gear a bit but usually can get 3rd to hook up no problem.  That's with a 3.55 gear in the back.

 

Fwiw, based on experience with friends that have had Nittos and BFG's, I wouldn't waste my time with them.  The only other tires I considered were the Toyo R888's and the M&H drag radials.  In the end I found a really good deal on the MT's and couldn't pass it up.

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I have 315 MT ET Streets on my car with quite a few street pulls on them and have been happy with them.  On 17lbs the car makes just barely under 700whp and I have to peddle second gear a bit but usually can get 3rd to hook up no problem.  That's with a 3.55 gear in the back.

 

Fwiw, based on experience with friends that have had Nittos and BFG's, I wouldn't waste my time with them.  The only other tires I considered were the Toyo R888's and the M&H drag radials.  In the end I found a really good deal on the MT's and couldn't pass it up.

 

Are your's on a 10.5 wheel?  Also are they 315/30/18s?  How do you like the sidewall.  I was thinking of going with 305/35s to get a little more sidewall.

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Are your's on a 10.5 wheel?  Also are they 315/30/18s?  How do you like the sidewall.  I was thinking of going with 305/35s to get a little more sidewall.

 

They're 315/30/18's on an 18x10.  The sidewall is nice, it's got size to it without looking like an old school obviously bigger tire in the rear look.  Doesn't bulge very bad, either.  I can get a picture in a few mintues if you'd like.

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Are your's on a 10.5 wheel? Also are they 315/30/18s? How do you like the sidewall. I was thinking of going with 305/35s to get a little more sidewall.

I have 315/35/18 Toyo proxes tq, and they are 10x better than my 555rs. I know I don't make 700hp but my car absolutely hooks everywhere now. Couldn't be happier with them.

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Here the pictures I found.  I think these are from the day I had the tires mounted...

 

 

Thanks for the pictures man, car looks great as always!  Those look really good and a lot more sidewall then I thought they would have.  You ready for the 1/2 mile event coming up?  Really looking forward to some videos from it.

who did you have widen the wheels, and how much did it cost for each?

 

Weldcraft in Michigan and it was around 230 a wheel to add two inches.  They are differently top notch though so I think its worth the money, and certainly not an area I wanted to go cheap since if one fails the car would be toast.

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Thanks for the pictures man!  Those look really good and a lot more sidewall then I thought they would have.  You ready for the 1/2 mile event coming up?  Really looking forward to some videos from it.

 

Weldcraft in Michigan and it was around 230 a wheel to add two inches.  They are differently top notch though so I think its worth the money, and certainly not an area I wanted to go cheap since if one fails the car would be toast.

couldnt agree more! I was just curious what it actually cost, thanks!

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I have 315/35/18 Toyo proxes tq, and they are 10x better than my 555rs. I know I don't make 700hp but my car absolutely hooks everywhere now. Couldn't be happier with them.

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How is the tread wear on them?  You have many miles under them.. its a tire I have looked at just wasn't sure how they'd last.  Though any tire that can hold big power will be limited on how long they last.   :angry:

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Weldcraft in Michigan and it was around 230 a wheel to add two inches.  They are differently top notch though so I think its worth the money, and certainly not an area I wanted to go cheap since if one fails the car would be toast.

 

If I keep the Rovos, I plan to have them add an inch all around... unless I can find a square set of 18x10s I like, but it's hard to beat free.

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How is the tread wear on them? You have many miles under them.. its a tire I have looked at just wasn't sure how they'd last. Though any tire that can hold big power will be limited on how long they last. :angry:

I've got about 1,000 miles on them and they still look new. I have a friend with a termi that tracked the car about every other weekend and he got 15,000 miles out of his.

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Inching closer to first start up! Spend way to long last night wiring up my MAF, would have been done in like 10 minutes if I would have just used slip loom instead of the techflex. The stuff I has was to small to fit around the plug so I had to put it on the wiring before I soldered it and then pull it up and heat shrink it in place... what a pain.

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Also finished up mounting my oil relocation filter housing. Still may need to trim the housing a bit to get the filter to swing up and sit closer to the car. But for now it sits ok and looks to have enough ground clearance. The roads I drive on are way to rough to slam the car to much so I should be able to leave it how it is.

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Last bit of progress was getting the MAF flange welded on so it's ready to be re-installed for what is hopefully the last time.

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