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Lanter

Lanter's rebuild of a '98 Cobra

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I was able to wrap up a couple projects over the weekend.  I have been working on them off and on for a couple weeks now but can finally say they are done.  First was the battery relocation, which turned into the battery relocation/fuel pump relay mount since the relay board was just to big to place behind the trunk trim panels.  To start I ran the main power wire from the starter back to where the battery box would sit.

 

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The wire is wrapped in tech flex and tied to either factory wiring loom where I can or riveted to the car with the supplied clamps.  Mounting the box was simple enough, though this box is huge.  It easily accommodates my battery and the relay panel for the fuel pumps.

 

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Next was cutting the factory battery cable ends off and grounding the ground, then running the factory power that would have went from the battery up front to the starter/power distribution box.  Now that wire runs solely to the power distribution box.  

 

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Lastely the box was filled with the battery and relay board as well as connections for my battery tender.  You can see the tender is plugged in, I ran the wiring to the back side of the box so in the future I can plug it in without removing the lid.

 

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The next project was installing my aerocatch hood pins.  Talk about a nerve racking project, the adage measure twice cut once could not be more true.  I used a piece of cardboard to make the cut on the drivers side.  I used a large enough piece to allow me to cut the outline of the hood so that when it came time to cut the passenger side I was able to simple flip the cardboard template and know that the two sides mirrored one another.

 

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After the two sides were cut I cut the backing plates for each latch in half and taped them into the holes.  Doing it this way allows you to not cut the bottom of the hood to put the backing plates in.  Only issue is getting the latches in without pushing the backing plates out.  Turned into a very tedious job but the results were exactly what I wanted, now with the hood open the bottom side only has holes big enough for the studs to go through. 

 

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After some adjustment to get the stud height correct I locked down the studs and cut the rubber bits.  So now I have a hood with a little extra security for track days.

 

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The last project worth mentioning was making an air intake for the turbo.  I didn't want to run an open turbo or even a mesh as this will be a 95% street car made for cruising and just weekend enjoyment.  So my issue was the lack of room between the turbo and ABS block.  Only two solutions that I would think of was running a small filter (which I wanted to avoid) and using a 45 degree silicone coupler then a two inch long 4" diameter pipe with a K&N filter attached to the end.  I actually really like the look of it and the idea of having a filter that won't create to much restriction for the turbo.

 

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The next bit I worked on was tackling the wiring for the gauges, I was able to mount the relay panel into the glovebox using rivnuts so that it is easily removable but I stopped at that point.  So that's the next project to finish then test all the wiring to make sure all is ok.  After that it's fluids and startup tune then time to fire it up and hopefully have a smooth breakin period before tearing it apart for trans/clutch/rear end and final tune next spring.

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Nice progress! Can't wait to see this thing done!

Thanks! Hopefully start it before the weather turns.

tech flex ftw! hah

No better way to clean up wiring haha. Eventually I will wire tuck the engine bay and recover everything with tech flex. That will be a winter project in the next couple years.

Small update, went ahead over the weekend and helped get my brother's car back on the road. First startup and break in before he stores it for winter and tunes in the spring. Car is a 2000 SS camaro that now has a pretty nasty 408 stroker in it.

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Was still able to get some things sorted out on my car. First I put 5 gallons of e85 in the tank in preparation for start up and leak checks. Then started sorting through the gauge wiring. Pulled the relay board back out of the glovebox to start building the wiring harness. It turned out ok and gives me the option of unplugging the board without the chance of mixing up wires.

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Then of course the obligatory tech flex!

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Mounted back to the glove box with riv-nuts and ready to go back into the car to join the harness that will be inside the car.

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Only remaining work is running the pressure sensors out to the engine bay and running the wiring to the boost solenoid for the controller. Then check grounds, mount a vacuum distribution block, and fill the thing with fluids. Oh I also need to mount the AC condenser and power steering cooler.

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Awesome job on the wiring! Very clean and neat, exactly how it should be ;)

 

Thanks Dan.  Nothing makes me cringe quite like trying to diagnose issues with shoddy wiring so I try to take my time and make it as clean as possible.  If nothing else it will alleviate headaches if I ever have to trouble shoot the gauges or fuel setup.

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Everything looks great with both your and your brothers car. You do a real good job with that wiring. I'm looking forward to someday wiring up my car. Good call with the aerocatches as well. Maybe it's just me, but I don't have much faith in factory latching systems. Especially with something that'll see high speeds from time to time. And nice job with the install.

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Everything looks great with both your and your brothers car. You do a real good job with that wiring. I'm looking forward to someday wiring up my car. Good call with the aerocatches as well. Maybe it's just me, but I don't have much faith in factory latching systems. Especially with something that'll see high speeds from time to time. And nice job with the install.

 

Thanks Blaise!  Wiring is by no means my favorite task but I do enjoy trying to make stuff as neat and clean as possible.  One of these days I will get up enough nerve to wire tuck the engine bay and really clean things up.

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I can finally say that all the wiring is finished and all checked out.... took way longer than I envisioned but it's done.  Now all the gauges are wired independently through the glove-box relay board and dim properly with the factory gauges using the light switch.  Also the pumps prime as they should so next is leak checks and first start.  I am not sure if I am excited or just really nervous to start the car.  Also got both fx1's installed even though I only have a picture of the driver's side, I think they may need some adjustment to fit with the door bars in place and also I need to sweep the carpets pretty bad but that's all tasks for another day.

 

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This picture was before the wiring was finish so the sending unit wiring harnesses are all tied up out of the way now.

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Last big thing accomplished was re-installing the AC condenser and finally putting the front bumper back on.

 

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Then to finish out the weekend I packed up some of my firearms and went shooting....  Really pushing to start the car this week, nothing really left to do besides fluid checks.

 

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Filled the car with coolant and oil then went to pressurize the fuel system to check for leaks and as luck would have it there's one fitting that seems to be leaking.  Of course it's one of two fittings that can't be accessed with the lines in the car so I need to undo the feed lines to the back of the fuel rails so the leaking fitting (which is on the y block that splits to feed the rails) can be dropped far enough to either tighten the fitting more or re do the fitting if tightening it doesn't fix the leak.  At 40 psi the fitting was just dripping out so I am thinking the fitting needs re-done, still going to hope its just a little loose.  

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Well we have liftoff. Car fired up but runs a little on the rough side unless you modulate the throttle. Still a big relief to hear it for the first time in 3 years.

 


 
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any chance i could see a picture of the underside of you hood. im very visual and i dont understand how you managed to get the latches in with out cutting the underside?!

So the only way to do it without cutting the bottom of the hood up is to cut the retaining ring in half and slip in into the inside of the hood then secure the two pieces with tape and studs. Then slip the latch in and bolt it down.

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it wasn't all that bad.  Just needed to get it as close as possible and the rest of the adjustment is done by moving the pin a little here/there.  I still have the wood pattern that was needed to do it with my router logan so if you get them it would take you much longer to drive down/back then it would take to actually cut the holes.  I took almost 15 mins on each side just aligning and mounting the pattern where I needed it, the actual cut took 3 mins flat.

https://driiive.com/ttocs/1994FordMustangGT/#!/timeline/2989

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wow! thats kinda what i was expecting to see but i still cant believe it. Im sure i would lose my patience trying to line all the bolt holes up on the top through that little hole!

 

You actually never use the bottom hole other than making sure it is big enough and lines up to where the stud will poke through.  I drilled the hole first for the stud then shut the hood and worked on laying out the big cut on top for the latch.  Once that was done you put the latch in and drill holes for the mounting hardware.  Then cut the securing flange, that houses the nuts, in half and put them inside the opening.  I held them up to the inside surface of the hood with 4 studs that thread into the nuts and some tape.  With the four studs poking through the mounting hardware holes you slip the latch onto the studs and down into the hole.  Then using two of the supplied bolts you can thread them into the securing flanges nuts and tighten them down.  After that both halves of the securing flange should be secured to the latch and you can take out the alignment studs and replace them with the hardware that comes in the kit.  

 

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of this process so hopefully my description is somewhat easy to follow. 

Found the write-up... http://www.sn95source.com/topic/3890-aerocatch-hood-latch-install/

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Big congratulations on getting it fired up!  Are you going to have an opportunity to have it tuned before the end of the year?

 

 

Sounds awesome with the open downpipe, btw.  I've been thinking more and more about running an open downpipe on my car...

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Big congratulations on getting it fired up!  Are you going to have an opportunity to have it tuned before the end of the year?

 

 

Sounds awesome with the open downpipe, btw.  I've been thinking more and more about running an open downpipe on my car...

 

Thanks!  No car won't get a chance to be tuned until spring.  I still need to purchase the flywheel/clutch and trans but that's going to wait until the holidays are over.  Also trying to get a hold of a 03-04 IRS since the rear is stock at the moment and I would rather put the money towards an IRS not building up my SRA.

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Heck ya, I know the feeling when you finally get the drive the thing you've been working on for so long.

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Certainly a great feeling.

I'll be happy if i ever get back to that point!!! :-)

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

It's crazy how fast a project can snow ball. Then how long it takes to dig yourself back out lol.

I still think it sounds awesome with an open downpipe :)

Congrats on getting a drive in before winter hits!

I'm giving an electric cut out some serious thought so I can have the best of both worlds.

Thanks, it was great to get to drive it before winter. Here's to hoping for a short winter!

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Congrats on a maiden voyage! I'd be happy to even start mine lol.

 

If you end up going the route of an electric cutout, look into the Doug's Headers Electric Cutouts. Most cutouts are the blade style like a throttle body, and end up leaking and sticking due to carbon buildup, etc. The Doug's design is like a little guillotine that scrapes itself clean each time it opens and closes, preventing leaks. More expensive but well worth the extra investment IMO.

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Congrats on a maiden voyage! I'd be happy to even start mine lol.

 

If you end up going the route of an electric cutout, look into the Doug's Headers Electric Cutouts. Most cutouts are the blade style like a throttle body, and end up leaking and sticking due to carbon buildup, etc. The Doug's design is like a little guillotine that scrapes itself clean each time it opens and closes, preventing leaks. More expensive but well worth the extra investment IMO.

 

Thanks Dan!  That sounds like an interesting design, definitely will take a look at them!  

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Took advantage of the unseasonably warm weather and tried my hand at paint correction.  Started with claying the entire car then using meguiars 105 & 205 then sealed it up with a carnauba wax.  Still some imperfections but it looks way better then before.  After three years of storage the paint was looking pretty rough.  

 

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Rear bumper before

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Rear bumper after

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Didn't get the entire car done but will tomorrow.  All in all I'll have around 10 hours in detailing the exterior.  Also went ahead and put the LeMan's on the front.

 

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I've always been scared of black. How'd this method work out for swirl marks? I had a black supercoupe years ago and after my detail it looked great, minus the insane amount of swirls.

All the swirls are gone. Only defects are some slight deeper scratches and chips that I just didn't want to keep working on for fear of running out of paint to cut. Also most of the scratches I couldn't get out are really covered well by the wax.  The front bumper has a fair amount of chips but a re-paint would be needed to fix that.

 

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Congrats on taking the car for a spin! That's awesome you were able to do so before winter. The maiden voyage is always exciting. Ecstatic that it's running and driving but also on high alert for any funny noises and feelings.

The detail looks really good as well. What kind of pads and buffer did you use? My truck is black and is in desperate need of a detail. I was wanting to pick up the 105/205 combo. I don't know a whole lot about detailing, and don't really care to get tangled up in that web, so that just seems like a quick and easy combo to get my truck looking decent. I have some Natty's paste wax that I like that I can top it with.

Those LeMans wheels are kick ass, too.

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Congrats on taking the car for a spin! That's awesome you were able to do so before winter. The maiden voyage is always exciting. Ecstatic that it's running and driving but also on high alert for any funny noises and feelings.

The detail looks really good as well. What kind of pads and buffer did you use? My truck is black and is in desperate need of a detail. I was wanting to pick up the 105/205 combo. I don't know a whole lot about detailing, and don't really care to get tangled up in that web, so that just seems like a quick and easy combo to get my truck looking decent. I have some Natty's paste wax that I like that I can top it with.

Those LeMans wheels are kick ass, too.

Thanks man, it was a great feeling after the drive was over and successful. My wife asked me before I took it out if I was excited to finally drive it, I told her not at all just really nervous lol. The buffer and pads are all from harbor freight actually, I got them last year during a sale for really cheap so I figured what the hey. The buffer seems to be decent and works well, the pads leave a lot to be desired though. I planned on just using them for this round them investing in some nicer pads from Adams Polish or someone similar. I honestly wouldn't even waste the little bit of money on the harbor freight pads. The 105/205 seems to really be working well so it's something I would recommend if you were wanting to stick to a budget.

I really can't wait to get some tires for the rear wheels so I can get them on and see how much better the car looks with the rear filled up.

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Was curious if you had any more photos of how you ran the wire through the car for your battery relocation and how/where you drilled the hole for it to enter the fender? I'm getting ready to do mine and just trying to gather ideas for how to accomplish it.

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Was curious if you had any more photos of how you ran the wire through the car for your battery relocation and how/where you drilled the hole for it to enter the fender? I'm getting ready to do mine and just trying to gather ideas for how to accomplish it.

 

Here is a picture of where the positive cable went into the car.

 

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From there its ran down the passenger side of the car tied to the factory wiring.  Then it goes under the RSD and behind the plastic trim in the rear, the same trim piece that needs cut for the MM roll bar.  Then I have it secured to the inner wheel well and then to the battery box.

 

The grounds are either factory grounds that are now secured to the core support or a short ground wire off the battery to the trunk structure.  I doubt this helps any but unfortunately I neglected to take any real pictures of the process.

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Thanks, Kevin!

Where does that hole enter the cabin at? Passenger footwear somewhere? Kick panel?

Enters in the passenger footwell and with the plastic kick panel installed it's just behind that so the passenger can't feel it of kick the wiring at all.

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Enters in the passenger footwell and with the plastic kick panel installed it's just behind that so the passenger can't feel it of kick the wiring at all.

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Cool.  Thanks, man!  I always hate drilling holes in the car.  Only want to do it once, you know :)

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I ran my power wire under the drivers fender, then through a hole in the inner fender that's right under the master cylinder, and opened up a rubber grommet under there enough for the wire to go through.

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After having the IRS for a couple weeks I was finally able to get it installed. I still need to clean it more but with it being 30 and below using water outside to wash stuff is less than ideal so it'll have to wait until spring. I'm still pushing to get it finished by May so I can take it to streetcar takeover at Lucas oil raceway. All that's left is the magnum, rxt, flywheel, tune, and whatever miscellaneous stuff I'll need along the way.

The install started with drilling out the rear frame rails for the subframe brackets. I'm using 9/16 grade 8 hardware for the two that needed added. I also went ahead and drilled out the lower control arm mounts to use 9/16 grade 8 bolts here too, instead of the 12 mm bolts.

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After the subframe brackets were installed I moved onto cutting out the rear brake lines and adding new lines that will have enough room for the upper control arms.

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I was able to run them similar to the factory lines and even reuse the mounting clips.

Next step was installing the shocks and maneuvering the IRS into the car and raising the front to secure the front subframe into the lower control arm mounts.

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I also threw on my widened lemans to check for fit and they'll need a small spacer to give clearance for tires when I get them mounted. With no spacer the wheels have about 1/16th of an inch of clearance between the subframe. Also will need to pick up some low profile subframe bolts but the IRS is completely installed so I'm happy. Can't wait to feel the difference in ride quality and handling.

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Love the look of the lower control arms, I also need to narrow down a good exhaust to throw on the car. I love the IRS tailpipes so it's a must now that I have an IRS.

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Man, that ass shot is so good. I really like the all black fuel sump and lines/fittings as well. Most of the time I don't really care for that stuff to be really attention grabbing. I love the look of the control arms poking out from underneath as well. With people putting IRS exhaust on SRA cars these days it would be cool if there were a way to really show off both the LCAs and exhaust. I can't wait to see it with some tires and on the ground though. It's really gonna break some necks.

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