Dysturbed87 Posted July 18, 2015 Report Share Posted July 18, 2015 Yay, another issue after coming back mustang week and I wasn't even there for the week. My pinion flange decided to start leaking all over my driveway.I've looked online and have read that I could mark the placement of the pinion nut, count the revolutions to take the nut off, and get it torqued back down to where the mark is after matching the revolutions from take off. Is it really that simple or is what I read too simplified and not how it should be done?Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 It really simple to pull the pinion and put a seal saver and new seal of you are mechanically inclined. The only parts you will need are the seal saver new deal and crush sleeve and a rotational torque gauge. Or you could do it the way you are talking about but it's just simple to put a new crush sleeve in set the rotation Torque and be on your way. Hope I helped any.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 with the method of marking the nut i thought you re-used the crush sleeve already in there? that way you dont need a torque multiplier to crush a new sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 with the method of marking the nut i thought you re-used the crush sleeve already in there? that way you dont need a torque multiplier to crush a new sleeve. this is true but the crush sleeve is something you are supposed to replace anytime you remove the pinion bolt/flange. I've never tried it without replacing the crush sleeve so I cannot commit if that way is a reliable fix or not.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 I replaced mine using the method the OP described. Came out fine. No issues or strange noises and its been a little over 1k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dysturbed87 Posted July 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Would it be better to do a crush sleeve shim instead of the crush sleeve? Measure the width/depth of the current crush sleeve and make the shim the same width/depth (whichever you want to call it)?http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SK-CSF88/Mustang-88-Crush-Sleeve-Shim-79-14It really simple to pull the pinion and put a seal saver and new seal of you are mechanically inclined. The only parts you will need are the seal saver new deal and crush sleeve and a rotational torque gauge. Or you could do it the way you are talking about but it's just simple to put a new crush sleeve in set the rotation Torque and be on your way. Hope I helped any.Do you have a recommendation on a rotation torque gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Would it be better to do a crush sleeve shim instead of the crush sleeve? Measure the width/depth of the current crush sleeve and make the shim the same width/depth (whichever you want to call it)?http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SK-CSF88/Mustang-88-Crush-Sleeve-Shim-79-14So you have a recommendation on a rotation torque gauge? it's a relatively simple tool so you don't have to spend and arm and a leg on one. Personally I have one from matco but if harbor freight offers one it will suffice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 you dont NEED a torque multiplier, but its handy. if you can keep the diff from turning, you can get a breaker bar and get the sleeve to crush. but it wont be easy. impacts can do the job, but most of the time you go through 2-3 sleeves before you get it right.I bought a beam style similar to this also. http://www.amazon.com/PERFORMANCE-TORQUE-WRENCH-POUNDS-M195/dp/B00SNICDJC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dysturbed87 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I've got an old craftsman beam style torque wrench, but don't remember the size or measurements, but I have one.I am going to search around about the crush sleeve shim and see what the consensus is. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I've done the pinion flange seal replacement without replacing the crush sleeve - it has never worked out for me. Anytime I need to work on the flange / gears / whatever, I found that the 1 hour it takes to get the rear out of the car and onto some saw horses makes working on it so much better. Inspect everything while you're in there - if you have worn / pitted races, it is a good time to rebuild the rear anyway. Also inspect the differential - maybe upgrade to the bigger S spring if you've not already done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dysturbed87 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I've done the pinion flange seal replacement without replacing the crush sleeve - it has never worked out for me. Anytime I need to work on the flange / gears / whatever, I found that the 1 hour it takes to get the rear out of the car and onto some saw horses makes working on it so much better. Inspect everything while you're in there - if you have worn / pitted races, it is a good time to rebuild the rear anyway. Also inspect the differential - maybe upgrade to the bigger S spring if you've not already done that.I planned on just pulling it since it is always a pain to work on certain things when your on your back. Thinking about it, I've got an extra housing and internals from my old rear end that had a bent axle tube. Maybe I should just build that with the old internals and start buying upgrade stuff little by littleSent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I planned on just pulling it since it is always a pain to work on certain things when your on your back. Thinking about it, I've got an extra housing and internals from my old rear end that had a bent axle tube. Maybe I should just build that with the old internals and start buying upgrade stuff little by littleSent from my DROID RAZR using TapatalkPut the extra on the saw horses and rebuild it! you can take your time and add new races, axle shaft bearings, even clean it up and paint it if you want. Then when the time comes, just pull the existing one and disassemble it, replace the carrier bearings and pinion bearing and then just install all that in the rebuilt one! always easier when there is a spare! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh@RideTech Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 If you do put a new crush sleeve in (I would) make sure that you have the right tool to hold the pinion when you're tightening it down. I had to drill some holes in a long piece of steel, it would've been 10x easier to just buy the tool. That thing took some force to start finally crushing it down... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dysturbed87 Posted July 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 OK, I procrastinated the whole year and started working on this last week. I thought I was good just using the mark, replace seal, and return nut to previous position. That didn't go as planned. I started with about 30 in/lb break away and 10-12 in/lb rotational. I pulled everything and found a small groove in the flange (pic below) and found a redi-sleeve locally. Got everything back together, but as I was tightening the pinion nut I checked rotational torque one revolution before the nut was back to its original position. Break away was 15 in/lb and rotational was 8 in/lb. I tightened the nut another half turn (still not at it's original position yet) and I checked the rotational torque again. It was 40 in/lb break away and 20 in/lb rotational. What could I have done wrong? I ended up pulling everything out and checked rotational torque again and got the same as when the differential and axles were in. Now that everything is out, I will be replacing the crush sleeve with shims. The bearing appear to be fine, I didn't didn't find any pitting in any of them. I will not be replacing the bearings, but will get a new pinion nut. So my question now becomes, what should the rotational torque be for old bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dysturbed87 Posted July 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 (edited) Found one answer in the sticky. -Using an inch-pound torque wrench, frequently measure the pinion bearing preload while getting it tight. It should be 8-14 inch lbs. (0.8-1.6 Nm) for used bearings or 16-29 inch lbs. (1.8-3.2 Nm) for new bearings. Is there supposed to be a break away torque or is it supposed to be a consistent from start to finish? Edited July 12, 2016 by Dysturbed87 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 there will be some break away torque, dont really worry about that number. but it should be a consistent 8-14 in lbs while rotating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
