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GearGambler

Quarterhorse and Binary Editor

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Update!  This will be a long post since so much has happened since it arrived in the mail.  

 

Note:  1994 Mustang GT Convertible, 306CI GT40 Heads, 1.72 scorpion rockers, FTI cam, 94 Cobra Intake, BBK 70mm TB and stock injectors / mass air.

 

I downloaded and installed BE on my laptop.  I eventually needed to plug in the dongle which I paid extra for.  The dongle is essentially a portable license.  I then plugged in the quarterhorse and had to install the drivers via device manager.  This was all done while sitting on my couch - QH was not yet plugged into the car.  I then updated BE and downloaded all the latest strategies and calibrations (I learned later I only need two of these... ).

 

I downloaded the CBAZA strategy and opened that in BE.  I then needed to know what computer was in the car.  Pulled the passenger kick panel to reveal it is a T4M0.  Downloaded the stock T4M0.bin and wrote that to the QH.  This gives me a BONE stock calibration.  

 

Next I pulled the ECU only to reveal that there is a hypertech chip installed!  I've had the car for years and I never knew that.  Apparently it isn't compatible with an MCRP prepped 306 with an Ed Curtis cam!  It certainly wasn't running correctly.  Anyway, I pulled the chip, installed the QH and plugged it into my laptop.  I was still able to 'see' the QH.  

 

I disconnected the negative battery terminal and turned on the headlights to erase any Keep Alive Memory and adaptive learning.  After a few minutes I connected the battery and started the car.  It ran, and ran much nicer than previous.  I hit the data logging start button and like magic I'm getting all these interesting readings from the QH - so I know it is working with the ECU.  I shut the car off and happily went on with my evening.  

 

Then I started reading.  One thing that is nice is that this is not a new product / process.  People have been using the QH and BE for YEARS, which means there is a ton of info out there.  The best resources so far have been EECAnalyzer.net and the forum there, and Efidynotuning.com for the write ups.  

 

Now I started playing around with the stock calibration.  I made changes for the cubic inches to increase to 306.  I also made a change to the fuel since I'm running 93 octane with 10% ethanol.  I then wrote that to the QH, Started the car and took it for a drive to do some data logging.  

 

My main concern was the stock 19 injectors (serviced and flow matched by Accurate IS) and the stock mass air.  Will I peg the meter?  will the injectors be enough?  all the math pointed to the answer of maybe but it was all borderline.  I now had the opportunity to take the car for a drive and data log a WOT pull.  The pull felt pretty good but it was choppy from 4k to 6k RPM.  What I found was REALLY INTERESTING!

 

Fast forward to me on the couch again looking at the data log.  The first thing I learned is that large data logs are a pain to deal with.  I copied the data from the WOT pull timeframe from the huge data log (.csv file) and made a new .csv via excel - essentially a new data log file.  Now looking at this one is much more granular.  Here is what I learned by looking at the log.

 

1.  Air Charge Temp (ACT) was 40 degrees.  It was very cold out!

2.  At about 6k RPM the Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (MAFV) is 4.81.  to peg it will be 4.9 or higher for an extended period of time.  Its CLOSE, but not pegged.

3.  Injector duty cycle (INJDC1 and INJDC2) is 97%.  This has me concerned.  more on this in a minute. 

4.  Battery voltage (BATV) drops a LOT during a WOT pull.   Battery and charging system are good, but the volts dropped from a healthy 14+ to 12.08 (min value) during the pull.  I would have never known! 

5.  The ECU demanded a 11.8 AFR (LAMBSE1 and 2) during WOT.  There was no correction happening, so I know MAF curve is good (it should be, since this is a stock calibration).  

6.  RPM is very smooth up until 4500.  From there to 6k it seems to be 'choppy' (peaks and valleys in the graph).  I'm not exactly sure what this is from, but I have some ideas.

7.  ECU gave just about 27 degrees total timing at 6k.  This was also interesting.  I know from the dyno break in of the engine that it wants about 30 degrees to make the most power.

8.  I can no longer own a mustang without having access to the data that is provided by a tuning device.  It will be SO EASY to troubleshoot a problem with this thing.  

 

Next steps:  

I ordered a Kirban AFPR.  I'm going to increase the fuel pressure, which should keep the duty cycle of the injectors down.  Mass Air isn't pegged, so I'm going to leave that for now (although I do have a REALLY NEAT plan worked out to upgrade that in the future).  I'm also going to clean up the ground wires to the engine / chassis / battery.  I still can't believe how much that battery voltage dropped, and the choppy RPMs up top could be ignition related.  It certainly isn't fuel or air after seeing the log.  

 

Some important things I learned from reading - for you forced induction folks - The calibration I'm working with scales to 100% load.  There are FREE calibrations that go to 200% load.  An NA motor will never see over 100% load, but a power adder will take the load into the 100%+ range.  The QH easily accounts for that!  

 

An innovate wideband will plug right into the laptop (I need 3 USB ports though - QH, Dongle, Innovate) and will be logged along with the data from the QH.  That means the data log graph would not only include the LAMBSE (what the ECU is demanding) but also the LAMBDA from the wideband which will show what the engine is producing in the exhaust.  Once LAMBSE = LAMBDA, Fuel and Air are dialed in perfectly.  THAT is why tuning with a wideband is so important for modified engines.  

 

My engine is not 'highly' modified.  Its built to be a VERY stout daily driver.  But by the time I'm done with this effort, its going to be a very fine tuned application!  More to come as I make more progress!

Edited by GearGambler
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Is it possible that the battery voltage drop-off between 4-6k RPM could be related to your ignition system?

 

When I first finished installing the Vortech, my car was chopping up pretty badly over 4500 RPM. I put new plugs in and closed the gap a bit, new FRPP plug wires, a new cap & rotor, and lastly a Screamin' Demon ignition coil and my problems went away. Obviously I have no logs of what was really happening there... Lol.

Edited by busta
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I don't think it's the system itself.  I'm running Moroso Ultra 40 wires, autolite 104 plugs, Summit racing billet distributer (practically new) and a mallory 29214 coil.  I just pulled the plugs and all the wires, cleaned up the cap and rotor and made sure the plugs were gapped at 50.  

 

I'm thinking if it's a grounding issue the ignition system would also be taking a hit especially at the low voltage?  

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Will do!  I appreciate that!  

 

Sorry about the long read.  I type fast and it turns into a rant sometimes!  

 

Here's a brief update.  I also bought a license for EEC Analyzer (also created by Clint Garrity).  I've learned what a template is and how to use it, which led me to kind of start over.  

 

Here's what I did:

Load the T4M0 base calibration.  This calibration NEVER CHANGES.  Keep it as read only.  

1.  Make changes to turn off EGR and Thermactor (smog).  Save as a template. 

2.  Increase cubic inches to 306.  Change injector crank pulsewidth vs ECT by 306 vs 302 ratio and injector change ratio (19/19 so no change really) Save as a template.

3.  Make changes to low and high speed fan temps for on and off.  Save as a template.

This gets saved as my T4M0Base.

 

Today I'm driving to and from work and logging the entire time.  I'll push those logs through EEC Analyzer to see what pops up.  I already know that the stock 19s are not enough.  Duty cycle is just too high.  And the stock mass air is barely OK.  I've already seen a 4.86v reading, which means it's REAL close to being pegged.  That being said - read on for the beauty of the Quarterhorse!  

 

Mass Air sensor:

I bought from eBay a stock 2004 5.4L F150 Mass Air meter.  It's basically the LMAF 90mm mass air meter, but not for the lightning.  There is a KNOWN mass air transfer curve for this particular meter (sensor and housing).  Shipped to my door it was 25$.  Thats right - a 90mm Ford mass air meter for 25$ shipped.  I had to buy some bigger couplers (20$) and the correct mounting flange (15$) to get it installed with my cold air kit, and Sensor plug (I bought the original ford F150 plug for 24$ shipped).  I'm making an adapter to go from that mass air sensor plug to the mass air harness (this is neat, more on this later) so it will look factory.  So for 85$ I can install this sensor, update the MAF transfer curve in the QH (already have a template for it) and eventually dial it in.  The known curve should make it a breeze.  

 

Injectors:

For my mild 306 I'll be installing Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors.  These are the same injectors that are sold as ford racing, except the ones I bought from lightning force performance have the jetronic connector, not the (new) USCAR.  So they should plug right in.  I know - first thought is - "thats way too much injector for that setup".  I thought the same thing too.  Again, the beauty of the QH is that there are only a few parameters to change, and they are published for the injectors:  high slope, low slope, breakpoint and voltage offset.  The injector crank pulsewidth also needs to be adjusted by the ratio of 19's to 60s.  I already created the template for this as well.  These new style injectors are very tame at the low slope and shouldn't cause problems with 'dumping' fuel at low RPM / idle.  They should run like stock but at a MUCH less duty cycle.  The best part - no more buying new injectors if I ever want to upgrade!  These will support any application / upgrade I come up with - right up to block splitting HP (and beyond).  to put it in perspective, I almost bought the 80lb/hr injectors, but just couldn't swing the extra cost right now.  

 

The Mass air sensor is going in tonight.  Injectors may be there when I get home or tomorrow.  They go in next.  Sunday / Monday I should have the innovate wideband bung installed. Then the real tuning will start!  

 

 

 

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Install your maf first.

 

The curve in EA is probably going to be wrong.

 

You're going to want to clean up the data points on the curve. I can post up some tips later.

 

Dial in the maf first. Once that'd good, drop the injectors in. It'll make life ALOT easier.

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Good advice!  I like doing one thing at a time.  And it makes sense to me why the curve should be dialed in before making any other changes.  I wish I would have seen your post sooner rather than just this morning.  I did install the injectors Friday night, and learned something really important about the QH also.

 

After everything went back together, I had to drop the fuel pressure.  I was running the fuel pressure high to try and compensate for the 19's not being enough.  I turned the key on, loaded the template I created for the 60's, and the car started right up and idled just fine.  Then I adjusted the fuel pressure.  

 

I remember if there is more than a 5% change to fuel, that the Keep Alive Memory should be reset.  So I disconnected the ground on the battery and turned the headlights on.  After 5 minutes I reconnected the ground.  I tried to start the car, and nothing happened.  It just cranked and cranked.  

 

I realized something was wrong, but the only thing I did was reset the computer.  I still had the laptop connected, so with the key on, I wrote the base calibration again.  Then loaded the template for the mass air and updated.  Then loaded the template for the 60s and updated.  Then tried to start and it started right up and set into a nice idle.   It was then that I realized that anything that gets 'updated' to the QH that is not part of the saved .BIN will get lost if the battery is ever disconnected.  So any changes to the hardware in the car should be saved as part of the calibration.  Not just updated using templates.  Templates are good for 'try me' scenarios, but the saved calibration should include any calibration changes for upgrades / parts already installed.  

 

Bung for the Innovate LC2 wideband is getting installed tonight.  

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you know there are free base tunes you can download from the efidynotuning.com website correct?  It will give you a running head start and should have you dialed in in no time

 

http://www.efidynotuning.com/t4m2.htm

 

there's also the support forum which is the most active for all eec related stuff

 

http://forum.efidynotuning.com

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On 5/8/2016 at 8:54 PM, decipha said:

you know there are free base tunes you can download from the efidynotuning.com website correct?  It will give you a running head start and should have you dialed in in no time

 

http://www.efidynotuning.com/t4m2.htm

 

there's also the support forum which is the most active for all eec related stuff

 

http://forum.efidynotuning.com

Yes!  I have the T4m2.  And I have read almost everything on info.efidynotuning.com.  It has been a WEALTH of information.  Thank you for making it available to everyone!  I'm in the process of dialing in fuel now with the LAMBDA -LAMBSE + KAMRF = Error% method.  I even had my wife helping with the data logging on the way out to dinner for her birthday.  

 

Your MAF transfer for the F150 Mass Air meter is why I decided to go that route and not the lightning MAF.  Also the F150 meter was 25$ shipped to my house :).  Same holds true for the injector sizing advice, which is why I have the Siemens Deka 60s in the car now.  I would have gotten the 80s, but the deal I got on the 60s was too good to pass up.  And the SailorBob CBAZA strategy.  The list goes on!  

 

Even with all that, I still have a LOT to learn!

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A little update.  For some time now I've been chasing a random stumble.  I eventually tracked it down to a misfire / ignition.  I could see in the data logs that the RPM would drop, then catch up again.  Shortly after that the wideband would show a lean condition.  It turned out to be the TFI.  I replaced it with a DY1077 motorcraft TFI (they no longer say motorcraft on them, but it is a ford part).  Theres a bit of a story behind it though.

 

Some time ago the stock TFI failed. Car died, towed home wouldn't start.  I had an old fox distributor with a working TFI, so I stuffed that in the fender, plugged in the TFI and it started right up.  I removed the TFI from the stock distributor, modified it to fit and installed it with some dielectric grease.  For a few years, the car ran just fine, so I didn't expect there to be an issue.  I can only assume that the ignition demands of the new motor made the stumble present itself.  Thats when I did some research.  Long story short, the 86-93 Fox TFI are Push Start, and dwell is controlled by the TFI module alone.  94/95 are TFI-ICCD (increased computer controlled dwell) and the ECU will control a few additional parameters related to dwell (coil charging).  When a Fox TFI is used in a 94/94, the ECU defaults to PIP to control dwell, which is very short.  here is a great write up!  

 

http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI_grey_or_black.html

 

now the car runs awesome with the correct TFI installed.  I'm also playing around with the spark tables.  I found that adding an additional 2 degrees really didn't add to the performance / seat of the pants feel.  But it wasn't pinging either.  So when I needed fuel I used regular rather than premium, and it still runs awesome.  I do have the fuel type set to 10% ethanol, so the calibration accounts for that.  

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Keep the updates coming along, I like a good read. I just got my moates today and I'll be installing it shortly. My motor is stock but I'm planning to do some things here soon.

 

I used to run BE on my turbo Taurus sho a few years ago and I loved it. 

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19 hours ago, Sho Amo said:

Keep the updates coming along, I like a good read. I just got my moates today and I'll be installing it shortly. My motor is stock but I'm planning to do some things here soon.

 

I used to run BE on my turbo Taurus sho a few years ago and I loved it. 

Will do, definitely.  I had a 95 SHO years ago.  Even did the 60k service myself.  then someone blew a light and totaled it.  Shame, that care was in immaculate shape.  I was dating a model at the time and she had SHOGIRL across the windshield.  It was an auto, but still a load of fun.  I miss that car.  

 

I would suggest heading over to decipha's site:  info.efidynotuning.com and start reading the write ups.  As I said before, it took a couple times reading and fooling around in BE to get comfortable.  The wealth of info that is there is awesome.  I'll also be keeping my blog up to date with the progress on my car:  geargambler.blogspot.com 

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Got into tuning DASPOT.  I got as far as implementing the changes recommended on Decipha's DASPOT write up page.  It is a noticeable improvement!  I still need to dial it in a bit more, but compared to where it was, it's much better!   

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7 hours ago, ttocs said:

yea you make it sound simple and its making me wonder if I am just being a puss or if its over my head....

 

I am thinking it's like math in high school, some people get it some don't. .. I failed miserably. 

So my plan of attack is to buy a QH before my motor is built, learn how to use it on my stock motor ( see how comfortable I am with it  ) and if all goes well write a program for the new motor... I need to physically touch and play with things like this,  reading stuff on the Web doesn't work for me.

 

Regards 

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well now see that is funny you say it that way.  I barely got through high school with a c average and college algebra was as far as I went, struggling the whole way.  I thought the same as you that you either get it or don't and didn't apply myself, do the work or study.  I realized this later when I took some night classes and found a calc professor that was able to break it down to where I could understand it.  I spent hours in the math lab working the same problems as I took him through calc 3/diff eq and found that I could get a's and b's when I put the time in.  Later while comparing tests with another student I realized he was probably the hardest prof on campus as his tests were 5 equations, show ALL your work and you can skip one or do it for extra credit, but if you got it wrong it counted against you.  No calculators were ever mentioned in class it was all on paper.  So with that being said I have to wonder if I can find it interesting enough to put the time in thats needed or if its just going to go straight over my head.  Part of the reason I did so well in the calc classes was the math lab to answer many questions as well as the prof was always happy to help.  

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Its is always great to have a place that will answer questions.  I posted some links in the replies above.  They are GREAT resources.  My advice is to read.  Then keep reading.  Then try it out.  At some point it will all click.  There is a method to things, so dont think that there's a magical 'base tune' that will work for any car.  It's all about giving the calibration the values that makes the car respond favorably.  It took me a while to get the hang of it.  Now I probably know enough to get myself into trouble!  LOL

 

 

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