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fastback86

Who has a un-molested 1994/1995 GT?

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1 minute ago, ttocs said:

finding one now that is still running and all original will be hard.  We have owned the car since it was new.  Until I started dickin with it, it idled at 750 rpm solid and never had a problem.  

 

Haha I hear that!

 

@fastback86 need some more information bud. Do you think the idle speed is too high or too low? Or does it fluctuate and seem like the car is trying to prevent itself from stalling?

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you can do a base idle reset on it.  check for codes also, there a couple sides that will help you go through the KOER and KOEO procedures.  my 95 GTS was completely stock, my idle was around 800? ish?

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2 hours ago, Blackmage said:

you can do a base idle reset on it.  check for codes also, there a couple sides that will help you go through the KOER and KOEO procedures.  my 95 GTS was completely stock, my idle was around 800? ish?

Was it a 5 speed car? 

Edited by fastback86
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3 hours ago, busta said:

 

Haha I hear that!

 

@fastback86 need some more information bud. Do you think the idle speed is too high or too low? Or does it fluctuate and seem like the car is trying to prevent itself from stalling?

Not really looking to diagnose and fix right now, just doing research on how these cars behaved from the factory.

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3 hours ago, ttocs said:

finding one now that is still running and all original will be hard.  We have owned the car since it was new.  Until I started dickin with it, it idled at 750 rpm solid and never had a problem.  

How did it act between shifts, did the rpm drop on its way back to idle or hover around 2500 for a few seconds? What about if you rolled to a stop in neutral or with clutch pushed in, did it return to idle immediately or run a tad high until you were completely stopped?

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My car was bone stock when I bought it last September. Yes it did hang for a moment between shifts as you said and when rolling to a stop in neutral or with the clutch pedal in it would hang at about 1000rpm until complete stop and it would drop down to between 750-800

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8 hours ago, busta said:

My car was bone stock when I bought it last September. Yes it did hang for a moment between shifts as you said and when rolling to a stop in neutral or with the clutch pedal in it would hang at about 1000rpm until complete stop and it would drop down to between 750-800

Thanks for the info. I wanted to compare mine to how it should act from factory.

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6 hours ago, Blackmage said:

you're not looking to diagnose anything, but you're trying to figure out a possible hanging idle situation when shifting and high idle at stop?  im confused?

Never said I had an issue, nor did I ask for help diagnosing something. I certainly may have inferred though. But, as it turns out from the replies here, I don't have an issue. The last thing I wanted to do was fix something that wasn't broke :)

 

Thanks for your help.

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On 12/6/2016 at 5:00 PM, ttocs said:
57 minutes ago, Yeahloh95 said:

yes the car uses the speed sensor to keep rpms up till the car comes to a complete stop , once I got tuned we adjusted that out , it was all for emissions

Can the factory ECM be re-tuned or does it need to be replaced?

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10 minutes ago, fastback86 said:

What would I need in order to re-tune it? It only had a CAI, smog delete, and exhaust right now.

 

I personally use the Moates Quarterhorse. It's a chip that installs into your ECM and has a USB output so you can connect it to your PC and make changes & datalog in real-time with appropriate software. I have a USB dongle license of Binary Editor and along with my Innovate LC-2 wideband I can log AFR as well. I'm not tuning savvy I feel like I'm looking at another language in Binary Editor but Willie at Dirty Dirty Racing got me hooked up with a great tune at a great price.

 

http://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-for-fords-p-199.html

http://www.eecanalyzer.net/shop

 

Two great websites for all sorts of fun information. The first link is @decipha website he's a tuner as well with a killer reputation.

 

http://www.efidynotuning.com/

http://eectuning.org/forums/index.php?sid=b7767b2c9b36910f21c82973bd204bd6

 

@GearGambler on here has well has been fairly hands on with QH tuning recently he probably has some good input as well!

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1 hour ago, busta said:

 

I personally use the Moates Quarterhorse. It's a chip that installs into your ECM and has a USB output so you can connect it to your PC and make changes & datalog in real-time with appropriate software. I have a USB dongle license of Binary Editor and along with my Innovate LC-2 wideband I can log AFR as well. I'm not tuning savvy I feel like I'm looking at another language in Binary Editor but Willie at Dirty Dirty Racing got me hooked up with a great tune at a great price.

 

http://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-for-fords-p-199.html

http://www.eecanalyzer.net/shop

 

Two great websites for all sorts of fun information. The first link is @decipha website he's a tuner as well with a killer reputation.

 

http://www.efidynotuning.com/

http://eectuning.org/forums/index.php?sid=b7767b2c9b36910f21c82973bd204bd6

 

@GearGambler on here has well has been fairly hands on with QH tuning recently he probably has some good input as well!

Thanks for those. Definitely something I want to look into.

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for the hanging shift if its sticking at 2500 rpm its too high.  Normally it would hang around 11-1200 until the car comes to a stop.  Again check the screw on the top of the tb's right drivers side and see if you can turn it down a little an if it helps.  If not you can make an idle air restrictor plate as a band aid or they make an adjustable version that is much more expensive.

 

tuning has a couple of routes you can take just depends on the budget.  Taking it to a reliable dyno tuner is the easiest/fastest(assuming everything goes well) but there is always the mantra on the dyno pushing it hard is that sometimes they go, sometimes they blow.  email/canned tunes can be good but I have not heard anyone say anything good about bama for the 94/95 and that includes myself.  There are a number of others like dirtry willy mentioned that are great tuners but you still need the ability to measure certain engine stats like AFR, temps and pressures in order for them to do their best work.  After that there are complete engine managment systems like megasquirt and holley efi that will require much more work to install and rewire but are much more advanced and complete systems.  I have a build page I started on my holley install if you want to get an idea off what it takes but your still a long way away from needing a tune.  

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with only those mods though, you don't need a tune.  it's a waste of money at the moment.  once you start switching heads and cam out, then get a tune.

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I agree, a dyno tune will run you a minimum of $400-500 (IIRC my guy charges $450 last time I talked to him), and getting all the parts you need for a DIY tuner will set you back about that much or possibly more. Unless the hanging idle is really bothering you I'd wait until I did some work to the car that required me to tune it. There isn't really any power to be picked up with a tune on these cars in stock form (maybe a few hp at most), it mostly comes into play when you've done heads, a cam, intake swap, boost, etc.

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