Lanter Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 You could look into quick spool valves. Lots of supra guys run them and see great response on large frame turbines. The premise is just effectively chopping the turbine housings A/R in half so the turbine will spool then you can open the valve when torque starts to peak and gain the full capacity of the turbo. http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.html http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?602684-SP-Quick-Spool-Valve-FAQ-and-Instructions-Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom@Stifflers Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 So you got a big fancy alternator. Not sure what what big deal is here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 You could look into quick spool valves. Lots of supra guys run them and see great response on large frame turbines. The premise is just effectively chopping the turbine housings A/R in half so the turbine will spool then you can open the valve when torque starts to peak and gain the full capacity of the turbo. http://www.suprastore.com/spquspva.htmlhttp://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?602684-SP-Quick-Spool-Valve-FAQ-and-Instructions-ThreadThat's a pretty neat concept, definitely going to have to look into that as it seems like a less costly solution than filling up a nitrous bottle every time I want to drive the car!So you got a big fancy alternator. Not sure what what big deal is here...Gotta make sure I don't over charge the flux compacitor and put us back too far in time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Shoot.... I just looked back at your pictures and I am not sure the spool valve will work for you. The turbine housing has to be divided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Shoot.... I just looked back at your pictures and I am not sure the spool valve will work for you. The turbine housing has to be divided. :-( shoot, I'll look it into it anyways. I may need a smaller turbine housing anyways so it may justify the swap to a smaller one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 he does make big numbers but he also runs great times too 830@185 so far and i think he is using a spool valve too , mid level boost for him is 47 lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolocut Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 There are many things that affect spool such as cross over pipe size, Compression, Cam, Length of inter cooler piping, length of exhaust piping. Personally a 2 inch cross over to a 2.5 inch t6 divided flange on 6-8 lbs should make boost around 3600-3800. the Divided flange can be used to effectively make the exhaust housing smaller just by making the flange like that. And it is a show car, so this turbo will look very cool under the hood. With such low compression and a built motor I would run 8-10lbs to start, Will be a lot of fun, Then once Bryan smartens up and puts a full manual valve body auto in it with a 36-4k stall with a brake, the car will be more fun to drive and pick up 2 seconds in the 1/4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWillyWalker Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Holy crap that's a big turbo. I can't imagine how cool that will look sitting in your engine bay, lol. I just can't wait for a ride. And that spool valve is freaking cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 hkkb ihjgjhh blk kjbvujbhj hn soooooooooooooooooooo let's give some update to this thread Since Mustang Week, Woodward Dream Cruise, and what seems like every other car event, I finally got around to doing another oil change on the whale cannon. Approximately 2500miles on the car, drive the car like I enjoy too, couple track trips, no big deal. No knocking, no ticking. Well, drain the oil and this is what I found: Definitely metallic coming out, not sure from what but I'll find out soon enough. Oil pressure is consistent around 40psi hot idle, jumpin up to 60-65 when holding it at 2500 rpms. Drove the car to the track and it felt fine the whole way out there, for the 3 runs, and after the final run it developed a little bit of a tick. Not quite sure if its motor or header gasket but I haven't had the time to investigate. For those of you that saw the car at mustang week, I'm sure you noticed the puffs of smoke at start up, well I assumed that was a valve seal issue, now I'm not so sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 hkkb ihjgjhh blk kjbvujbhj hn soooooooooooooooooooo let's give some update to this threadSince Mustang Week, Woodward Dream Cruise, and what seems like every other car event, I finally got around to doing another oil change on the whale cannon. Approximately 2500miles on the car, drive the car like I enjoy too, couple track trips, no big deal. No knocking, no ticking. Well, drain the oil and this is what I found:Definitely metallic coming out, not sure from what but I'll find out soon enough. Oil pressure is consistent around 40psi hot idle, jumpin up to 60-65 when holding it at 2500 rpms. Drove the car to the track and it felt fine the whole way out there, for the 3 runs, and after the final run it developed a little bit of a tick. Not quite sure if its motor or header gasket but I haven't had the time to investigate.For those of you that saw the car at mustang week, I'm sure you noticed the puffs of smoke at start up, well I assumed that was a valve seal issue, now I'm not so sure. I may not be looking good enough but I don't see the metallic bits, but it does look milky like there's been water coolant in the oil? Or am I just seeming things. I know mine had metallic bits the first 2 oil changes very fine fine, I cut the oil filter open and showed it to my builder and he said it was normal for the first 1-2 changes cleared up after the 3rd. Mine also holds similar oil pressure and has a tick lol, but I know it's from the valve train and is just a fact of my engine because of the cam profile. I would cut the oil filter open and inspect there too.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 I may not be looking good enough but I don't see the metallic bits, but it does look milky like there's been water coolant in the oil? Or am I just seeming things. I know mine had metallic bits the first 2 oil changes very fine fine, I cut the oil filter open and showed it to my builder and he said it was normal for the first 1-2 changes cleared up after the 3rd. Mine also holds similar oil pressure and has a tick lol, but I know it's from the valve train and is just a fact of my engine because of the cam profile. I would cut the oil filter open and inspect there too.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe "milky" streaks are metallic streaks. I'll see what happens on the next one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 damn man, hope you get it figured out. you've worked your ass off on that car. good luck with it dude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 What was the history on the motor before you put it in? Fresh rebuild or was it already broke in, sorry I can't recall if you mentioned this previously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 What was the history on the motor before you put it in? Fresh rebuild or was it already broke in, sorry I can't recall if you mentioned this previously.It was supposedly fresh rebuild, new bearings, rings, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Are you sure it's not just like ARP moly lube? It looks a lot like that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Are you sure it's not just like ARP moly lube? It looks a lot like that...That's what I'm hoping is its something like that and didn't drain out the first time, but I did an oil change after about 250 miles and didn't see anything like this so maybe it just took a while to work itself out. The main reason I think some things wrong is the blowing oil on start up and decel is when I notice it the most Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 If it was fresh did you do a heat cycle and dump the oil then put fresh break in oil back in (or dyno oil). My builder said on a rebuild (especially new rings) to do the following: 1) bring the engine up to temp and run for a little while then dump the oil2) new oil and filter run for 500 miles (easy but varying load to seat rings)3) new oil and filter run for 1500 miles and drive it how you plan to If that oil is 2500 miles and the first or even second oil change that could just be the rings seating. The first oil change looks like a glittery mess so perhaps your just flushing out the remainder ring seat material. Of course that's depending on if the oil was changed a lot before this one was dumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 If it was fresh did you do a heat cycle and dump the oil then put fresh break in oil back in (or dyno oil). My builder said on a rebuild (especially new rings) to do the following:1) bring the engine up to temp and run for a little while then dump the oil2) new oil and filter run for 500 miles (easy but varying load to seat rings)3) new oil and filter run for 1500 miles and drive it how you plan toIf that oil is 2500 miles and the first or even second oil change that could just be the rings seating. The first oil change looks like a glittery mess so perhaps your just flushing out the remainder ring seat material. Of course that's depending on if the oil was changed a lot before this one was dumped.I did as much of a break in cycle correctly as I could. Granted it wasn't totally correct, started it, let it run holding it at 2500 for like 15 minutes or whatever it is, shut it down, went to dyno the next day, did dyno break in tune, changed oil, trailered to mustang week, so this is the first oil change after initial break in, but I've had to add oil periodically because its been burning off (valve seals? Rings? Idk?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 I did as much of a break in cycle correctly as I could. Granted it wasn't totally correct, started it, let it run holding it at 2500 for like 15 minutes or whatever it is, shut it down, went to dyno the next day, did dyno break in tune, changed oil, trailered to mustang week, so this is the first oil change after initial break in, but I've had to add oil periodically because its been burning off (valve seals? Rings? Idk?) hmm I am sure you did enough to get a good break in, every builder says something a little different. Hopefully it's something simple man, I would hate to see the whale cannon have issues after all the work you got done this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 How much oil is it using? Maybe you could do a leak down test to determine if it's the rings or etc... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 i thought some metallic (obviously not chuncks) was normal on a fresh rebuild for a couple oil changes? maybe im wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Idk. Oil use isn't though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Idk. Oil use isn't though?obviously oil use isnt lol were you down a quart at all before you changed, or was it still pretty full Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 obviously oil use isnt lol were you down a quart at all before you changed, or was it still pretty fullEhl oh ehl when I changed it, I only drained out about 4 QTS from a 7 at system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 holy balls dude, were you even getting oil to the rest of the motor im assuming thats why youre getting metallic flakes now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Wow that's a lot of consumption in such a short time, is your crank case ventilation system working properly do the plugs look oil soaked? Was it ever running really rich maybe washed down the rings? I would deff cut the oil filer open inspect then do a leak down test.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Wow that's a lot of consumption in such a short time, is your crank case ventilation system working properly do the plugs look oil soaked? Was it ever running really rich maybe washed down the rings? I would deff cut the oil filer open inspect then do a leak down test.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAs far as I know it is. I have a 90 on one cover, that goes over the motor to a T, then out the t to a catch can. Never notice a whole lot of a oil when I drain it, just a lot condensation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 What do your plugs look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 What do your plugs look like?x2Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Mine consumed a lot of oil when I first put it in IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Mine never burned a drop even when it ate its self the first time it was built.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Mine consumed a lot of oil when I first put it in IIRC.Then it ate cam gear :-X What do your plugs look like?I'll pull em today and see, last time I checked they looked real normal aside from oil on the threads, that's where my assumption of valve train came from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Then it ate cam gear :-X I was originally not implying that lol. Where's Keith at? I thought I brought this up that my motor was consuming some oil and I think I remember him saying that it was standard for a fresh motor. I could be completely wrong and could of been talking about something totally different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh@RideTech Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 My new build spit out alot of assembly lube and TINY metallic pieces (I assume from the break in oil) when I drained the oil the first time. The second time I drained it, I didn't see anything but the miles were very very low on that oil change. I hope yours is just parts breaking in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 I have seen fresh engines oil look like that before in the first couple of oil changes. Never the less precautionary measures such as the leak down test probably wouldn't hurt. Its always better to be safe then sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Started the car last night to move it and it didn't sound as bad. Sounds like valvetrain noise. Gonna keep it minimally moving because I'm still sketched out from the oil. Probably readjust rockers when I get the chance and see if that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 i hope the motor is ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Something let go in the motor yesterday. Picking up the car this evening and bringing it back home. Conveniently broke around the block from my gf's house who's dad is also my tuner. Let him listen briefly and he thinks it sounds camshaft or timing related. Sheared dizzy gear? Blown out timing chain? We'll see soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Did you double pin the camshaft? Maybe the pin sheared. Of course some of those bronze dizzy gears are notorious for stripping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Did you double pin the camshaft? Maybe the pin sheared. Of course some of those bronze dizzy gears are notorious for stripping.I didn't touch the internals of the motor, and idk what double pinning the camshaft is lol so no idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
