kbscobravert

After doing the Wild Ride upper and lower kit I wished I had done the whole S-Box

it's my start. just a regular free oven. used it to bake a bunch of gun parts but only to 250°. All ready looking to go bigger like y'all.

Is this done yet? I'm picking up a garage oven this weekend to play with duracoat and gun parts...around 250* for 2 hrs. Long term is to get into some powder coating too. I may strip this guy for parts. and build a bigger oven out of a el' cheapo Stack on single layer gun safe. More like a metal cabinet labeled for guns.

Another vote for weld bungs. Either female NPT or male -an. Much better than 2 threads in the stamped steel pan. Another vote for NOT plumbing your oil catch can back. Oil vapor has condensation in it. You want that out of then engine. Hence why you want your oil temps above 212 also. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Oh snap. Rebirth from the ashes of the red car build. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

As far as clutch goes, just need to adjust the engage and release point. Now for the oil pan leaking, that is another story. Lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

To the best of my knowledge, they are 1 and same. Mine was purchased as a "Viper spec t56" and has the 2 Viper emblems embossed in the casing.I am willing to be wrong. $1K for the trans even of you have to make it work is still a lot if room to play with until $4k.

The Viper has a different front plate. There is a greater distance between the clutch face and the shoulder that the hydraulic throwout bearing sits on. This is the adapter to run a clutch fork on a Viper. You have to take it off. Notice that there isn't a bolt on steel bearing shaft. What I had to do to get the bearing hydraulic body moved forward. A regular ford installed t56 would not have this problem with McLoed's conversion. That said, I measured the stroke last night to right at .400" which is perfect with my clutch manufacturer's spec. Should be able to fire it up tonight and run through the gears with the rear off the ground.

95 cobra, QuickTime bellhousing, frpp steel flywheel, clutch dynamics twin ceramic clutch, McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing conversion, Viper T56.

Like a Honda civic from the driver's seat but I haven't got it on the road yet. Exactly. I wanted as much if the threaded collar inside the hydraulic body as I could get. Good news was, can get my hands in the clutch fork hole to spin the hydraulic body to get the right depth.

It is a newer one. Only had it a month.I got it figured out. Had to add a spacer behind the threaded colar. Laugh but I used a piece of fence pipe. It fit perfectly over the tob shaft.

I think I am going to ask them to send me a second threaded sleeve. I can have it cut down and it would be a perfect spacer. That said, I think their kit has improved. I also remember their customer service being top notch. Hopefully it is still that way.

Anyone been down this road yet? Viper T56 McLeod hyd throwout bearing....fully threaded IN the bearing face is 1.725" from face of trans which is 1.3"+/- from the fingers Custom twin disc.....fingers are 3.06" from face of trans. The bearing gets .06" closer with every turn on the adapter sleeve. At my measurements it would take about 23 turns to give me the .100" - .150" gap. It boils down to, I need to move the threaded sleeve of the bearing away from the face of the trans about an inch but still give that sleeve something to push against. This picture shows the sleeve threaded all the way out. My cable setup used this adjustable pivot ball bracket but I believe that the sleeve will fit inside the i.d. so it would be no help

My brand new (less than 3 weeks) Samsung Galaxy s6 Active = broken screen. Ugh. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

If you want my solution. I would stop going through the cluster and dash wiring for the command signal.Run a relay that is triggered by key on/run. I just had to do this exact same thing. Except I just used the power out side of my fuel pump relay to trigger the alternator on. Fuel pump on - alternator on. The alternator shouldn't draw any amps to speak of.