AZSN95SNAKE

I replaced mine using the method the OP described. Came out fine. No issues or strange noises and its been a little over 1k miles.

Great camera work and your car looks flawless as usual!

I'm gonna have to go that route I guess. Wish I would have found out about this issue when I researched it. I would have bought the Ford racing girdle with no fins. Thanks for all the input fellas!

That's what I am thinking but yeah I don't have either of those tools. I wonder how bad it would look using a grinder. Also, the part right in the center where it is stamped FORD, is area that protrudes the most. I don't really want to beat up the wheel well but that seems to be my only choice. Did you just take a hammer to the spare wheel well? Yeah its the finned shelby cover, so you are correct they do have a panhard bar to clear. However, I'm thinking they must have more room in that area. Its decently low. A little less than an inch of clearance all the way around. I have adjustable co

Yeah, it looks nice and would like it to stay looking nice. I don't think that much clearance is needed, at least I hope not. Do you by chance remember how much clearance you ended up with? I'm wondering how I'm gonna go about it.

Hey guys, I recently installed a ford GT500 finned differential cover because it has the fill and drain bolts on the cover. And by recently I mean a few hours ago. So the silicone is still curing. I have not poured any fluids in yet, so it is still on stands. Anyways from the looks of it, it looks like the cover is going to rub the spare wheel well. It definitely protrudes into the wheel well area and I haven't even put the car on the ground yet. I found a thread where a few had to massage the wheel well area. Is this a bad idea? I really do not want to spend another couple hundred on a lo

He made the right choice.

Oh wow that is a huge difference. Yeah the mounting holes are further back it seems. I might have to upgrade to the MM ones but damn $400. One less thing to worry about though if I did switch them out. haha why don't you? I know the MM guys don't run them on their cars.

About 4.25-4.50" from center of that bolt to center of the threaded shaft. Measured it while the car was on the ground so not much room haha. Wow yours clears completely. Not sure if the Cobra sway bar is thicker, but I think it is so that may be why.

No they are the J&M weight jackers. Is the it the same type of mechanism to lift and lower on the MM arms? Yeah please let me know! Also, if I raise the spring perch higher up it should lift the ride height right? not lower it.

Do you have the perch threaded upwards (vertically)? For example is the spring perch sitting against the control arm itself or is it above? (idk if that even makes sense). So when the spring perch is lowered closer to the control arm itself is the car being lowered or raised? Something tells my I had a brain fart when putting them in and adjusting them. I'll go snap a picture right now. That is true. I'll just have to turn the threaded piece with vice grips.

I figured I may one day need to lift it to run slicks or something.

Spring perch sir, they are the lowers. I have them maxed out to drop the rear end closer to the front. So the threaded stud that protrudes from the control is sticking down about 1 1/4" and rubs on the rear sway bar. I notched it badly and it still rubs.

Instead of starting another thread I figured I'd post in here first: Anybody with ADJUSTABLE LCAs have a problem with the control arms rubbing the rear sway bar severely? I have the J&Ms. I had to notch the stock sway bar a pretty good amount. Worried it might snap at some point.