95opal Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 Absolutely nothing wrong with team-z quality. Im running a bunch off there parts in my new set up and am very impressed with the stuff ive received from them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 Before this gets out of hand, this thread is not for bashing companies. Keep that in mind when you post.That is all. Proceed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I'll admit i'm a bit of a MM fanboy... it's just that their customer service is so freakin good, and their parts are very overbuilt. It may not be for everyone and I have no problem with Team Z, but MM stuff is really good. That, and they've proven time and time again that their stuff works in racing applications. I also thought the Team Z stuff was more drag oriented, but I probably just need to research it a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I'll admit i'm a bit of a MM fanboy... it's just that their customer service is so freakin good, and their parts are very overbuilt. It may not be for everyone and I have no problem with Team Z, but MM stuff is really good. That, and they've proven time and time again that their stuff works in racing applications. I also thought the Team Z stuff was more drag oriented, but I probably just need to research it a bit more.Team-z started with alot of drag oriented parts but have since branched out and now have a street series and also auto x stuff. I went with there autox k-member and front a-arms. when it came time to select parts for my rear, I looked into a bunch of companies that offered mini tub kits and again I liked the team-z stuff here. I also couldnt find to many that offered off set control arms like teamz does and with the tire size and the relocation of the rear shock mounts they were the only ones I knew for sure would give me the clearance for 345/19 rubber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 Team-z started with alot of drag oriented parts but have since branched out and now have a street series and also auto x stuff. I went with there autox k-member and front a-arms. when it came time to select parts for my rear, I looked into a bunch of companies that offered mini tub kits and again I liked the team-z stuff here. I also couldnt find to many that offered off set control arms like teamz does and with the tire size and the relocation of the rear shock mounts they were the only ones I knew for sure would give me the clearance for 345/19 rubberoooOOOoooOOO! Rich droppin hints about what he's been up to! Sounds sick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 Indeed it does lol... 345's.. mmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 oooOOOoooOOO! Rich droppin hints about what he's been up to! Sounds sick!lol Dan, Thought you already knew I was tubbin it, as Ive mentioned it a few times already. Like I said previously she will be a completely different ride when I complete her this time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 ^ I knew about the mini tub, did not know about stepping up to 19's, I approve of this :rockon: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 ^ I knew about the mini tub, did not know about stepping up to 19's, I approve of this :rockon:Well kinda need a big set of meets not only for the looks but to hopefully get it to hook by 3rd lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) So after doing some research and conversating with a few people, this is the list I've come up with. The list is in order of purchase. It will be a slow process that will probably take a long time but the idea is to get one at a time as the budget allows and save for the last purchase which will be the biggest. I am going to post them so I can get feedback and also keep track of what I need to get. The list will be updated as I figure out what else is needed:1 - Bilstein Grooved HD Shocks/Struts 2 - MM Full length subframe connectors3 - Steeda front sway bar (35mm)4 - MM Rear lower control arms (adjustable)5 - MM K-Member kit (which includes the following):• MM K-Member• MM Front Control arms (non-offset)• MM Front Coil-Over Conversion kit• MM Aluminum Steering Rack Bushings• MM Caster/Camber plates• MM Adjustable Tie-Rod Ends• MM 2-Point K-Member Brace• Urethane front swaybar bushings• Swaybar end links (shorter)6 - MM Rear coil over kit (will be ordered at the same time as #7)Others:1 - MM Strut tower brace (might get sooner, my current one is beat up and this is more for looks)I do need to figure out what spring rates to run for the coilovers. Edited January 4, 2013 by Brian Added rear coilovers to list & removed panhard bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 The reason that I did not list a rear swaybar is because the factory Cobra swaybar is 25mm and most kits I found had the replacement as 24mm. I guess the material of the aftermarket swaybars might be stronger so maybe I'll still consider it? I have some more research to do there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 I also heard somewhere that MM offers a negative offset front control arm to retain factory wheel location but I think that's for cars before '94. I didn't see any under the section for my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnyxCobra Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) best you can do with the K member and non-offset A arms is moving the wheel forward .75" but it's not a big deal, really not noticeable. Edited January 3, 2013 by Brian Brian FTW ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Usually the reason most change out the rear sway bar is when it breaks (where the hollow tube meets the solid ends). Until then I'd just leave it as-is, as long as it isnt broken it performs quite well. It's a common failure and will likely happen someday so you might as well wait. The Eibach bar is solid, so when or if you get one to replace your stocker it won't be prone to failing like the factory one. Like I said I'd just save the cash for other things for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 best you can do with the K member and non-offset A arms is moving the wheel forward .75" but it's not a big deal, really not noticeable.Yeah, I have the non-offsets listed in "()" above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Usually the reason most change out the rear sway bar is when it breaks (where the hollow tube meets the solid ends). Until then I'd just leave it as-is, as long as it isnt broken it performs quite well. It's a common failure and will likely happen someday so you might as well wait. The Eibach bar is solid, so when or if you get one to replace your stocker it won't be prone to failing like the factory one. Like I said I'd just save the cash for other things for now.I actually broke the rear on my '96 GT when I had it, haha. So yeah I figure I won't upgrade unless it happens again. I need to send you a PM on another topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Just whatever you do, don't get a bigger front swaybar.. understeer FTL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 So I should remove the Steeda swaybar from my list, ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 If it were me I would. These cars understeer bad enough without adding more roll stiffness to the front end without compensating in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 If it were me I would. These cars understeer bad enough without adding more roll stiffness to the front end without compensating in the back.Check out page 2 (as I said in our PMs) for the full list of what I'm looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 I'd personally just get the critical stuff first that doesn't really need "tuned" and save the swaybar for last. It may be possible after getting the K-Member kit that you'll have enough front grip to warrant the sway bar, but I'd try the handling out before spending the money on the bar. I wouldn't worry too much about the STB either, they're arguably pointless. Especially if you have SFC's and the new k-member/brace. Nothing necessarily wrong with getting the STB though, any stiffness helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 The STB is more for looks. My current one works but its beat up. Needs to be repainted and get new bolts. The list I posted is in order of what I will be buying so the major tuning parts are last. And I luckily have a friend who owns a Motorsports company here that he races mustangs at VIR for open track. He tunes all in house so he will be doing the installs and adjustments. Otherwise is it looking good? Anything I missed? It's not going to be purpose built hence why no TA or watts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I just emailed MM a novel long message asking tons of questions and providing my list for review. Can't wait to hear what they have to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 The STB is more for looks. My current one works but its beat up. Needs to be repainted and get new bolts. The list I posted is in order of what I will be buying so the major tuning parts are last. And I luckily have a friend who owns a Motorsports company here that he races mustangs at VIR for open track. He tunes all in house so he will be doing the installs and adjustments. Otherwise is it looking good? Anything I missed? It's not going to be purpose built hence why no TA or watts.Oh, yeah, it looks good lol. Definitely drool worthy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Oh, yeah, it looks good lol. Definitely drool worthy...Haha. I know it's overkill for a street car that might see a few tracks / drag strips but it'll be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slykin Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Meh. My car is PURELY a daily driver right now and i'm running 400lb/in front coil-overs. That is overkill. There's really no downside to the k-member package and all that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
