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My Little Pony Garage - BLKMAGE

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had some issues with my sequential/chase lights over the past week or so.  This kit if from meter4it, and theyve been on my car for almost 7-8 years so i figured it was their time. Called them up and they said it was probably the modified flasher relay lost a solder connection, which turned out to be the case.  so theyre back up and working.    also bought a rebuild kit for the rear end, all new bearings and some 3" arp studs so i can run some spacers.  now i just need to find some open end lug nuts.



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got the rear-end all rebuilt.  wish i took some more pictures. oh well


Check out that flex!





30 minutes later, rear end is out







guess it needed new bushings too




and one bent axle shaft coming right up!











took the time while i waited for parts to ship, to put in some LED reverse lights.  night and day difference for sure.








nifty tool I did not know exitsted to remove the carrier bearings







I work for a GM and Toyota dealership, so put together some of out special tools to make a bushing remover/installer





installed the ARP studs onto the new Dana axles, new bearings and seals all around as well.





man those studs look neat





ready to get back under the car





picked up a set of monster open end lugs, but I had to tap each and every single one of these fuckers to basically just clean out the threads.  Its like they machined 3/4 of the lug from one side, and then came in from the other end to finish it and the threads never matched up and had debris in it.  oh well.  They turned out nice once they were on the car.









needed to change the coolant temp sensor for the cluster also, instead of the draining the whole system i cut up a bottle so when i did the quick swap of the sensor, anything that came out drained into a bucket.  lost maybe a cups worth.  winning



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Just now, Psychorugby said:

I'd die 3 times on the way to work with those tires!

psh, they still got 30k miles left in em!


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I've got a broken ring and pinion to go with you bent axle! ;)


On 6/15/2017 at 10:03 AM, Blackmage said:

psh, they still got 30k miles left in em!



So what's that?  Like 5 more years?  LOL

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picked up some spacers finally.  pushed out all the studs and then used them as slip on spacers.  here is some pics without the spacers












and here is with a 1" spacer








and this is with a 3/4" spacer on the 18"s





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Decided it was time to rebuild the trans.  It started grinding going into 4th gear, then about a week later started grinding going into 3rd as well.  It also has had a hum that occured as soon as the car started moving, so i assumed an output shaft bearing somewhere, that has been going on for almost 6 years now haha. 



jack stands first.  




Pulled the trans, and then clutch and flywheel.  Will be going with a new aluminum flywheel and spec stage 2 clutch.














Theres the bad output shaft bearing.  pretty clear it was getting hot, and it made a ton of noise when spun. 










Going to need a ton of heat to get these torx head bolts out.  




Counter shaft, tail shaft, bellhousing all removed. 






Will be replacing these stamped keys with billet steel units.  dont need them breaking again.




I know the shift forks are prone to cracking and breaking, so i picked up some billet aluminum units.  OEM on the left, billet on the right




Found the issue with 4th gear, a cracked outer blocker ring.




everything is apart, ready to be cleaned and re-assembled



New synchro on the left, old on the right.




everything basically gets pressed back together, along with a ton of snap rings.  




need to keep shift rods in a certain position along with the main shaft and counter shaft so the bellhousing goes back on correctly.











decided to get a new clutch fork, a couple pieces were broken off and the ball stud had worn some deep grooves into the pivot point.





Ready to rock and roll.










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On 4/16/2019 at 9:25 AM, Sho Amo said:

Im loving the jack stands!


The wheel fitment is looking spot on, do you have a part number for those studs?

The jack stands were some left over wood i had, worked out great.   The studs were just ARP extended studs for a 94-98.  i think it was these.  https://www.americanmuscle.com/arp-rear-wheel-studs-9404.html


On 4/16/2019 at 9:32 AM, RedTwilight said:

Wilbur!!!!!!    Where the F#^( have you been!  LOL


I've been in hiding haha.  Life comes at ya in weird ways and sometimes you need to set some stuff aside, unfortunately the forums was one of them.  


On 4/17/2019 at 7:19 AM, Prokiller said:

i have a very serious question...why was it purple and why didn't you keep it purple!?

when i did the 4v swap i wanted the valve covers and trans to somewhat match the violet purple pearl that was in the paint of the car itself.  The paint was way lighter of a purple than i wanted, so i painted the intake and VC's black, and then when i pulled the trans this time around i went back to silver.  it was always fun getting it up in the air and people looking at it all weird. 



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On 4/20/2019 at 8:40 AM, ThomasW said:

How tedious of a job was the trans rebuild and where did you get the gear pullers for the job?  Ive been debating on rebuilding/upgrading mine. 

it's not terrible if you know how to turn a wrench and know how to use a press.  I manage the I.T. systems for a Toyota and GM dealership so I have all the special tools at my disposal, but you can get it done with a couple flat bars and some threaded rod and just need to macguiver something together.  Otherwise everything comes apart with 13mm bolts and snap rings.  Keep everything in order and its not bad putting it back together.  

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12 hours ago, Blackmage said:

it's not terrible if you know how to turn a wrench and know how to use a press.  I manage the I.T. systems for a Toyota and GM dealership so I have all the special tools at my disposal, but you can get it done with a couple flat bars and some threaded rod and just need to macguiver something together.  Otherwise everything comes apart with 13mm bolts and snap rings.  Keep everything in order and its not bad putting it back together.  




i may have to try it.  I just need to decide far i want to take it. 

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On 10/15/2019 at 3:30 PM, 9838stang said:

How much did the whole rebuild on the trans end up costing you?

Hmm, its been a little bit since i added everything up.  With the billet forks, billet keys, carbon synchros, bearings, bronze fork pads, solid shifter bushing, clutch fork, pivot ball, all new bolts for the case, probably close to $1200.   Which is about close to a stock rebuilt t45.   If you bought this from promotionpowertrain, it costs about $1800, but does not use a billet 1/2 shift fork and only a cryo treated 3/4 fork.  but i also replace my flywheel and clutch, so that was another $600 or something.  


"PMPHeavy Duty T45's 700HP+                                               

  • This Hi Performance Unit is built with 26spl M/D,Solid Key Kit 1-4,
  • CRYO Treated 3/4 Fork,3rd Metal spacer,Carbon 
  • Fiber Synchros & HD or Shorty T/O Tube. "
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Hello my children.  Ive had a hell of a year.  Started off with some new seats from TMI, then turned into installing a UPR k member kit that i bought on black friday of 2019.  That snowballed into replacing the front frame rails because they rusted out.  That snowballed into new rack and pinion, coolant crossover delete, poly bushings everywhere, new oil pan gasket, steeda sway bar, etc etc.  Heres some pics, cuz you people love pics. 

































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turned out really good.  i couldn't believe you did it when i saw it on IG.  cutting into frame rails is my nightmare.  great job!

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9 minutes ago, Prokiller said:

turned out really good.  i couldn't believe you did it when i saw it on IG.  cutting into frame rails is my nightmare.  great job!

man i was honestly heart broken when i sucked those bolts through the frame rails.  I was ready to throw in the towel on the car.  Talked to plenty of people and got the balls to try and do it at home on my own.  definitely not on my list of ever wanting to do, but it wasnt too bad honestly.  Just hope it aligns well lol

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got about 1.5 degrees more caster out of this setup, and everything else came out money.  had some leaking from the on3 crossover delete that i needed to fix.  I dont know if i got a part that was made on friday afternoon or what.  The 1/2 NPT pipe threads were not actual tapered threads so nothing fucking sealed without a ton of teflon tape, and even then you could just feel the atrocious amount of slop in the threads.  Lets hope that holds out in the long term.  (Maybe you got shitty 1/2npt to 10AN adapters!  Nah, i legit have 4 different brands and all of them are looser than a whore after a busy weekend)

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Hi, my name is Will, and I have a problem.






















If you've made it this far, you might actually be interested to hear what happened.  4 lane highway, i was traveling in the left lane.  A truck and camper pulled into the right lane, and as i was going past him he decided to pull a U-turn in front of me.  I was doing about 60 at the time (conservative for me, i know. it was my wedding anniversary weekend and the wife and i were traveling to a cabin up north).  I slid 130ft with my brakes locked up into the side of the camper.  As of right now I'm still waiting for his insurance to come out and assess the car as it will all be paid by him as he was at fault.  The body shop estimate that i got was $6800, and they didnt include the A-pillar damage or the Cobra hood (quoted a base v6/gt hood).  So im assuming it would be more in the $7500 range, maybe more.  Im also assuming it will be totaled.  

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the airbags didn't deploy so that usually means its not totalled BUT that is a good bit of damage so who knows.  good luck Will!  hopefully they won't be dicks about it

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the air bags use to be expensive and could be final straw to total a car but now they are $50-75 each.  Sorry to say they will probably total that car no matter if the bags went off or not but it doesn't look as bad as mine was.

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Guys they don’t go off of scrap yard pricing on this stuff, a door is still $1000 from Ford, that’s how estimates are done. Either way, doesn’t matter how “bad” the damage is, if it exceeds the threshold of what they consider is like 75% of the value, it’s totaled. A 96 gt ain’t worth a whole hell of a lot lol

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6 hours ago, Prokiller said:

i assume regardless of insurance decision, you'll be fixing it right?

im not 100% yet.  definitely buying it back if its totaled.   I may have the body shop fix any sort of frame damage and replace the windshield and i may put the rest of the money into a newer mustang.  work on this on the side putting it back to what it once was.  its not going anywhere, but i just dont know what i want to do yet.  

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21 hours ago, RedTwilight said:

DANG!   Sorry to hear/see about the bad luck.  But you can rebuild it.  Better.  Faster.  Stronger!


I've been thinking about getting those same TMI seats.  How comfortable are they?

It'll be back no doubt! 


Loved the seats, the whole 100 miles ive drove in them haha.  My waist just fits (36) and if youre a bigger guy, can be awkward to get in and out of the car with the high thigh bolsters.  

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