Jump to content
64bit_Tuning

The Epic Rebuild. AdderMk2 V3.0 (here we go again!)

Recommended Posts

No, came from J.P. Goodenough in Texas. The guy tried very hard to screw me over. I don't recall if I detailed my return process, but it was exactly that... A process.<br /><br />After the block was picked up for damage inspection, FedEx tried returning it to my shop. It was refused and forwarded back to the original shipping address. After dealing with paypal for about a month, I finally talked to a manager and they told me that I couldn't get a refund until I shipped it back to his PAYPAL address. I strong armed the manager into giving me the address, then got in touch with FedEx and got it re-forwarded to the right address.<br /><br />It took a good 40 days before I got a refund, from the date of purchase.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chapter 4: From the ashes, a Phoenix shall arise!

 

While researching what would be needed to make my Cobra run an automatic transmission, I came across some really good write up over on SilverFox. It turns out, the factory auto ECM that I have will not control the 4R70W in its current configuration. There are some sensors and solenoids inside that must be changed. More specifically, the torque converter lockup solenoid, electronic pressure control solenoid, and the shift solenoid. The old model solenoids run a different level of resistance then the newer (97+) parts.

 

Here's what needed to be changed.

20140125_125851 - Copy.jpg

 

First, lets start by flipping this pig over...

 

20140125_125617 - Copy.jpg

 

There's that beautiful LPW trans pan I scooped up a while ago. Lets pop it off and have a look inside.

 

Here's a look at the shift solenoid and torque converter lockup solenoid.

 

20140125_130354 - Copy.jpg

 

And the electronic pressure control solenoid.

 

20140125_130425 - Copy.jpg

Now on to the process of changing these out.

I started by removing the valve body. Its held in by about 25 8mm headed bolts.

After the valve body is removed, it was set aside. You can see the TCC and shift solenoids are still attached.


20140125_131612 - Copy.jpg

 

Look Ma! No valvebody!

 

20140125_131625 - Copy.jpg

Since I'm changing out the solenoids, the original electrical board needs to be changed for the old style harness. So lets pull the old (new style) D-connector out of the trans housing.

 

20140125_131633 - Copy.jpg

20140125_131708 - Copy.jpg

 

 

And we'll throw the new harness in.


20140125_131746 - Copy.jpg

20140125_131920 - Copy.jpg

Now on the the EPC solenoid. The shift linkage shaft needs to come out of the trans and this nut needs to be removed so the EPC can be slid out of place and changed.



 

20140125_132409 - Copy.jpg

 

Yes, thats my leg. I am indeed straddling the trans. Balls deep son!

 

Anyway, once the shift shaft is out of the way, the EPC slides right out and can be swapped.

After that was all taken care of, I re-installed the valve body. Now, to change the TCC and shift solenoids.

Remove the one remaining 10mm bolt holding them down and pop them out of place.

20140125_133301 - Copy.jpg

 

At this point, the battery died in my phone and I couldn't take any more pictures.

Shortly before I buttoned everything up I realized that I don't have a trans fluid temp sensor... So I guess I'll be back at this again later.

 

*EDIT*

 

I forgot to add... The 4R70W has a larger diameter driveshaft yoke bushing. I purchased a tailshaft housing from an AODE, replaced the bushing with a new piece, and put the AODE tailshaft housing on my 4R70W.

 

 

Stand by for an engine update tomorrow...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/25/2014 at 4:01 PM, The Mk2 said:

 

Stand by for an engine update tomorrow...

 

It seems as though I have forgotten what "tomorrow" means.

 

Several months ago, I came to realize that my 347 just wasn't going to be feasible to repair. I set out on a mission to find a replacement engine. The initial plan was to drop a stock 302 back in the car, get it running, and sell it. While taking inventory of the parts i had on hand, I realized that I wasn't that far away from having all the parts I needed to do a 351w swap! I started hunting around and found a local salvage yard that had a known good engine. The truck was immaculate! The only reason that it was in the JY was because (literally) a tree fell on the cab of the truck. Sucks for the owner, but score one for me.

 

$500 later, and i had a running roller 351w.

IMAG0580_zpsbd3b8c69.jpg

 

 

The engine was absolutely disgusting to look at when I got it home. So after an hour of degreasing and scrubbing, I got it looking half way presentable. The water pump bolts were so seized inside the timing cover, that I had to cut it off. And by cut it off, I mean I made some notches in it, and gave the cover some hell with an air hammer! haha...

 

Got the external BS parts all removed and started detailing the block. Some more degreaser and some Berrymans B12 Chemtool work great at removing 19 years of caked on crap.

 

IMAG0666_zps0ff8da4c.jpg

 

 

"Scrubbing" just doesn't even begin to describe what I actually had to do to clean this block up.

Take a peek! This was AFTER about another hour of scrubbing.

 

IMAG0669_zps8f1f881e.jpg

 

 

I just kept on plugging away and finally got the block clean enough. It only took a can of Berrymans B12, a spray bottle of Purple Power, and 3 cans of brake clean. After only two coats of engine primer, we were making some definite progress,

 

595f7e6237572_20140125_211632-Copy.thumb.jpg.b22acc2298f89556d25b7e85aaec2082.jpg

 

 

paint

 

595f7dfdaf90b_20140125_214416-Copy.thumb.jpg.5cc2ccb33e3ee7137dc20605691b6a85.jpg

 

paint

paint...

 

IMAG0679_zps32bd0735.jpg

IMAG0680_zpse12ee30d.jpg

595f7e1f9a682_20140126_111712-Copy.thumb.jpg.7e715a3c674abfa172d4d0fd36dd4443.jpg

 

 

A couple days later, I ripped off the factory heads, decided to take a look inside the block.

Looks pretty good for having over 100k miles and being 19 years old.

 

595f7e2551dc2_20140126_114900-Copy.thumb.jpg.ca72a33ce4d4b3aac9dafab867235182.jpg

 

Got a little bit of carbon build up, but all that crap cleans up.

 

 

 

 

To be continued.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now that I finally have a good, solid, and clean bottom end... It was time to start assembling! I had to go digging through the closet to find my AFR heads. You know, since I ordered them in April, picked them up in September... and here it is March (actually Feb). So I took one of the old gaskets and popped one head on so I could check pushrod length.

 

Scoured through the garage and dug out the valvetrain parts that I've been sitting on for months now.

Switched out a couple springs for some low tension checking springs.

 

IMAG0686_zps5b8e6112.jpg

 

Found my pushrod length and called Ed at FTI. He had the pushrods I needed right on the shelf. I swung by after work and picked them up.

 

Decided I wanted to test fit my intake... Checking basic port alignment and such.

 

IMAG0689_zpsa87f2bf5.jpg

 

 

After installing my headgaskets and torquing down the heads, I grabbed the timing set from my 347 and tossed it on with my Lunati camshaft. After checking the cam with a degree wheel, I found the "zero" markings to be good. So i went with it!

 

IMAG0691_zps00cd3e7e.jpg

 

 

I purchased a "Bolt Kit" from the guys at www.alloyboltz.com and for the most part, it was pretty well spot on. The crank pulley bolts were too short, but thats because I have a professional products balancer with a spacer. Not a huge ordeal, Lowes carries stainless socket head bolts that match my kit.

 

IMAG0695_zps366f99eb.jpg

 

 

I decided to run the socket head bolts because they would match up nicely with the bolts that already came with my alternator relocation bracket. Turns out the new power steering bracket that I bought also came with socket head bolts... I love it when things work out!

 

IMAG0697_zpse382e0c0.jpg

 

It didnt take long for me to realize that I had installed my alternator bracket upside-down. Felt like a complete bone head with that one too.. LOL. Pulled it off and flipped it over, and all was well.

 

IMAG0700_zpse155c897.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Decided to start breaking my oil pan.

 

Center punched...

 

IMAG0710_zpscc1d28d1.jpg

 

drilled...

 

IMAG0711_zps51607ed3.jpg

 

drilled larger and tapped

 

IMAG0712_zps8cf425ab.jpg

 

Threaded in the fitting, put some black RTV sealant on it so I wont need to worry about leaks.

 

IMAG0714_zps326f2444.jpg

 

Had to notch the crank scraper so the bulkhead nut could be installed and tightened.

 

IMAG0715_zps78268008.jpg

 

I put the pan aside and started working on some other things.

 

Like installing my oil filter relocation adapter.

 

IMG_20140224_181912_zps532e77cf.jpg

 

 

Then I decided to put the rest of my valvetrain in place. Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers. The red stuff is Comp Cams valve spring lube.

 

IMG_20140225_195642_zpsb25341cb.jpg

 

Bolted the intake manifold in place. Notice the socket head bolts again. Also the carb studs and nuts, also from alloyboltz.com.

 

IMG_20140225_195720_zpsfdeef423.jpg

 

Cranked the engine up in the air and installed the new M83 oil pump, Canton oil pump pickup and ARP oil pump driveshaft.

 

IMG_20140225_202041_zps7b7ad10d.jpg

 

 

Fitted up the pan and installed all the bolts. Once I had it all nice and tight and sealed, I realized I had forgotten to install the retaining nut on the oil pump pickup tube. So the pan had to come back off.

 

Looked good once it got back on there though!

 

IMG_20140225_204734_zps2bb6068e.jpg

 

 

Here's some more of that nice alloyboltz.com hardware...

 

IMG_20140225_205854_zpsf42b5fe3.jpg

 

 

 

Moving on to another part of the engine...

 

I wasn't overly happy with the exhaust manifold gaskets i had... so I decided to trade these...

 

IMG_20140302_131029_zps369a89af.jpg

 

 

For a set of these...

 

IMG_20140302_131112_zps4bcc3226.jpg

 

I had really good luck with the Mr. Gasket pieces when I had them on the 347... So i wanted to keep them this time around. Except i could only find one. So I bought new ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About a week and a half ago, I started bolting the engine and trans together. I had to pick up some new bolts. The engine has been apart for some long that I couldn't find my bellhousing bolts.

 

IMG_20140302_175327_zps0e4c6941.jpg

 

 

After i got the engine all bolted up to the trans, or vice versa... I went to turn the crank and found the engine was seized up. So i loosened up the bellhousing bolts and tried the crank again, and sure enough... the engine turned.

 

After a few hours of researching, it turns out the flexplate that I bought WAY back when, was actually for a 302/351w w/28oz imbalance... and a C6 trans, not an AOD/AODE/4R70W.

 

Go figure.

 

Bought a new flexplate (the right one) bolted the engine and trans together today and started fitting the rest of my exhaust parts.

 

IMG_20140311_182735_zps18adddac.jpg

 

 

I had a bit more time today before dinner, so I kept plugging away and got the drivetrain ready to go in.

 

IMG_20140311_183356_zps57a87d22.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is it in yet? That's what she said! (No really, my girl came out into the garage and asked if the engine was in yet.)

 

IMG_20140311_184219_zpsd992d8e0.jpg

 

 

 

And finally, Since I told @Steve-Oh that I'd have a big update for him by the end of Feb...

 

Here is it! All nice and snug in place. Engine mounts and trans mount are bolted in and tight.

 

IMG_20140311_192655_zps15bbd9fb.jpg

 

 

 

Thats all for now. Ill have more updates soon. Just waiting on my 37* flare tool to show up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very awesome, so proud! I guess I responded too early while you were in the midst of updating... I was gonna say "I thought you were a little further along than just paint..."

You are officially way further ahead of me now lol!

Sent from Space

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great progress.  I like that you were able to bolt the headers and crossover on before dropping the whole assembly in the engine bay. 

 

Only concern I see is your oil return.  1. you should have it closer to the turbo up front or 2. I would have dropped it into the kickout of the pan so it was a straight down shot.  That would help with it being so far away from the turbo.  As long as you can keep the flow down hill the entire way and the greater the downhill angle the better.

 

Looks like a fun toy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great progress. I like that you were able to bolt the headers and crossover on before dropping the whole assembly in the engine bay.

It wasn't exactly easy to "just drop it in". The biggest issue was getting the crossover to clear the ABS pump. I had to use a pry bar and persuade it slightly.

Only concern I see is your oil return. 1. you should have it closer to the turbo up front or 2. I would have dropped it into the kickout of the pan so it was a straight down shot. That would help with it being so far away from the turbo. As long as you can keep the flow down hill the entire way and the greater the downhill angle the better.

Looks like a fun toy.

I had considered that. There are no other spots on the side of the pan that would allow me to get the oil return fitting to be perfectly horizontal, while also keeping it above the oil level in the pan. There was also no way that I could use the supplied oil return parts. I'm already considering using a scavenger pump to prevent oil backup issues.

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these few updates make me happy. thing started to look sweet once the AFR heads were on.   any worries about the block being stock internally with the turbo?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That things going to be a blast with the auto. Pretty jealous that I made my car so radical lol

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram @rolocut

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these few updates make me happy. thing started to look sweet once the AFR heads were on. any worries about the block being stock internally with the turbo?

I am re-springing the wastegate for 6psi. My main concern is that ill over-run my fuel system. If the engine lasts through this year, ill grab another and put a forged rotating assembly in. There are numerous guys out there running stock bottom end 351w's with big blowers or turbos. Intact, YouTube Red Roof Slammer. He's running an S480 turbo on a stock shortblock with P heads, and running 9's. I'm aiming for the mid 10 range, and trying to stay under 500hp.

For now...

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so it's still the stock truck cam in there?  and are those the same headers from the 347?  how could that work with increased deck height?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why's that?

How many N/A 347's can't break 400...

Most 408's average high 400's to mid 500's. 600+ would require alot of very expensive parts.

so it's still the stock truck cam in there? and are those the same headers from the 347? how could that work with increased deck height?

No and no. You didn't read the thread. And the 347 was N/A.

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

How many N/A 347's can't break 400...

Most 408's average high 400's to mid 500's. 600+ would require alot of very expensive parts.

 

If we're talking wheel horsepower, then fair enough.  I'm more interested in the torque anyway.  I asked Woody for a 600hp build and he seemed confident in the parts he sent me.  I'm sure I will be talking to you more about it since all I have is a block and no money.  I've been waiting a long time to see your motor finally come together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Parts are still ever so slowly trickling in. This weekend, hopefully, Ill be building a 700hp capable fuel system... as well as fixing the oil drain fitting.

 

Stupid me, I wasn't considering where the starter would be sitting. So now I need to repair my pan and select a new place to run the return.

 

Huge update pending for this weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How dare you not think of everything!!!!!!! ;)   Waiting for parts sucks.  I've been waiting for the liner for my welder for almost 2 weeks now. 

 

Looking forward to an update from you, long overdue.  It's been almost a freakin' month!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


SN95 Source ©

The premier SN95 Community

×
×
  • Create New...