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The Epic Rebuild. AdderMk2 V3.0 (here we go again!)

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It seems as though I am finally approaching the end of my build.

 

When we last left off, I was admiring the quality job I had done while installing the oil drain bung in my oil pan. Once I finally bought the starter I needed for my auto conversion, I found that it was not a great sport for the drain. So I had to jack up the engine, drop the pan, oil pump and pickup. As expected, the job sucked. Ripped up the new pan gasket, so I needed another. I spend a good long time figuring where i could put the drain, and opted for the front of the pan. 

 

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After I got the pan out, I noticed that there were scrapes on the pan from where it was hitting the steering rack. My old rack bushings were basically worn out anyway, so I figured I'd replace them with some offset rack bushings. Bought me some poly MAC bushings and holy crap, what a mistake. Each bushing literally shattered while being installed. Needless to say, I was not happy. Bought me some new energy suspension bushings (which I should have originally done) and got the rack back installed and lowered to increase pan clearance.

 

Recently picked up some injectors for myself. 900cc (86lb) from Fuel Injector Clinic. Ordered a set of EV6 pigtails with them.

 

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Took the new pigtail ends and started tearing into my harness. I was actually looking forward to this since most of my EV1 connectors had broken tabs. So I peeled away the old tape, loom and other sticky crap that was in there, and started cutting off old connectors.

 

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Ordered a loom assortment and waited for it to come in. Once it arrived, I started digging further into the harness and doing a full clean up and re-loom.

 

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Once I had the main injector section of the upper harness completed, I went to start working on the transmission harness. I bought the trans harness used and wasnt sure what I'd find. So I stripped it down and found that the crackhead i bought the harness from, must have done a manual swap, and left the MLPS plug dangling under the car. I had to carve some plastic off the connector just to get it to plug in. Digging deeper into the harness, I found the two wires for the NSS in the MLPS had been cut and bypassed. This was absolutely unacceptable to me. I had to fix it.

 

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Once the repairs had been made, I ran the harness across the trans and sized it up. Marked and taped the pigtails and started looming. Once the trans harness was done, I moved on to the lower engine harness. I was amazed at the size of the pile of crap that I removed from my harnesses.

 

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Once completed I was VERY happy with the way they all looked.

 

 

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Dropped all the harnesses in place and started tucking the injector runs for neatness. I ended up running the injector runs under and through the fuel rail brackets, then just pulled each pigtail into place and plugged everything in. The only change I had to make after installing the harness was to move where my ECT pigtail came out. Since my ECT sensor isnt up in the front of the manifold anymore. (since I replaced the stock heater fore hard pipes)

 

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Im using -10AN Nylon braided hose to replace the hard pipes. 

 

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Ive got about 95% of the car done right now and am just trying to put together those last few details that can keep me from starting her up. Finally got all my charge pipes re-installed. Maf is in place. I even rewired the maf harness to utilize the IAT that is integrated into the PAS slot maf I'm using.

 

Here's a shot of my (at the time) one off, custom FTR front bumper support. It took me a bit of work, but I convinced Pete ( @poxenham at Fully Torqued Racing) to build me a custom support to clear my intercooler.

 

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Thats all for now. My biggest hold up right now is that this monster of an engine doesnt fit under my 3.5" cowl hood... So even if I get it running, I still can't drive it. HAHA.

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Veryyyyyyyy awesome! I really like how you replaced the hard coolant lines with braided lines, looks much cleaner than my rubber lines. (might steal that idea).

Also, we're doing the same thing with the injector harness, def running mine under the manifold. And now you need.one of these:

post-18-14086745515441_thumb.jpgpost-18-14086745929566_thumb.jpg

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Nope, not getting rid of my single step cowl. I bought an Edelbrock 3848 intake elbow which sits significantly lower than the current elbow. But now my TB is very close to the valve cover. Cant ever win. I've got a couple tricks up my sleeve though. So it'll be fixed up soon... I hope!

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Well, all of the charge piping is installed. All exhaust piping is installed. All wiring is installed... And 90% of the fluids have been filled.

 

Tossed a battery in the trunk and the car has power.

 

 

 

But something is not right. One major portion of the wiring that changed in the car was the entire dash harness. I swapped in a black interior during the build. I now have a "No Crank, No Start".

 

Gonna be ripping the dash back out this week and swapping over my original harness. After that, it'll be time to chase down some gremlins.

 

 

 

 

Stay Tuned.

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Well, all of the charge piping is installed. All exhaust piping is installed. All wiring is installed... And 90% of the fluids have been filled.

Tossed a battery in the trunk and the car has power.

But something is not right. One major portion of the wiring that changed in the car was the entire dash harness. I swapped in a black interior during the build. I now have a "No Crank, No Start".

Gonna be ripping the dash back out this week and swapping over my original harness. After that, it'll be time to chase down some gremlins.

Stay Tuned.

Should of just swapped the dash cover over. What year car did you pull the dash out of? Just FYI passenger side has some plugs that are the exact same in the same general area. Very easy to mix up.
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Could have quite possibly located the source of the "No Crank" that I'm experiencing.

 

Apparently on auto trans cars, there is a jumper installed across the two pins of connector C253.

 

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I back probed and checked continuity through the harness. Everything else seems to be good. Even so far as to run a continuity test through the MLPS. Verified that I had continuity in both Park and Neutral.

 

So tomorrow I'll drop a good battery into the car and jump C253. Then see if the bitch cranks.

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If it's the same connector I'm thinking of, it's just a 2 pin rectangle connector by the pedal assembly on the kick panel side. A single wire comes out of the connected plug and loops back to the other pin. I had to remove it when I 5 speed swapped my V6

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Build looks great Keith. Do you have an HD pics showing the tubular bumper with the intercooler? I'd like something to use on the website to show (I don't have an intercooled car myself). Shoot me an email peteoxenham@fullytorquedracing.com, you'll get credit on the site of course.

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I've read thru this whole thread 3 times and don't see where you say what turbo kit it is you are using.

Info please.

 

 

Cleaned the thread up a bit...

Its an On3Performance 351w Foxbody kit. The original manifolds supplied with the kit were not as good a fit as I had hoped, they ended up warping pretty bad and caused a very severe gasket blow-out on the dyno. The manifolds have since been replaced with the set that DNA Motoring (Speed_Daddy) offers on Ebay. There were two reasons for this. The manifolds are cheap, so replacing a damaged one will be easy. And they are actually built better. I'll post comparison shots soon.

 

So anyway, new manifolds are in. The crossover pipe was slightly modified to fit the new manifolds. In the next week or so, the new converter should be going in the car. Once installed and tested, dyno numbers will be provided.

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Here's the vid from back in September.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=821238691231703



I know @Steve-Oh will like this one.

This video was taken before I had even been able to get the car out of the driveway. This is about as simple a base map can possibly be.

http://vid59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/AdderMk2/Cobra/2014/20140912_173314_zpsugjvrtuj.mp4

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I've got some pictures to update. These are the new DNA Motoring manifolds.

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They move the turbo out and up just slightly, which increased the clearance between the alternator. But now the turbo hits the hood. I can't ever win.

Although, I do have a new turbo on its way.

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If all goes well, I should see 700whp this year.

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So I finished up a little early at school today, so I got to spend some time out in the garage. I went ahead and pulled out the tiny 70 mm turbo...

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And dropped in my new precision 74 GTS.

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To my complete surprise, the turbo fit flawlessly and doesn't interfere with the alternator. It even bolted right up to the on 3 performance downpipe!

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Unfortunately, I once again cannot close my hood.

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Will you be able to notch the inner structure of the hood and clearance it for the turbo, or does it sit high enough that it will poke above the outer side of the hood?

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Will you be able to notch the inner structure of the hood and clearance it for the turbo, or does it sit high enough that it will poke above the outer side of the hood?

Unsure. I'm going to try trimming the entire bottom side of the hood before going further. I won't mind having it poking out just a little bit. Honestly think it'll look kinda cool.
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Im not going to lie... I really REALLY did not want to cut my hood.

But then, in the end... it just needed to happen.

 

 

a little turbo poking out of the hood sounds awesome to me! cuz race car!

I agree. Cut that hole.

Will you be able to notch the inner structure of the hood and clearance it for the turbo, or does it sit high enough that it will poke above the outer side of the hood?

 

 

What do you guys think? These are obviously just rough cuts. Now that I can actually CLOSE the hood, im going to take it to work and clean up the lines. Then add some resin to the bare edge, and smooth it down.

 

 

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That turned out great.  I'm glad you made the smallest cut it took to get the hood closed, makes for a cleaner look then just lopping out a big section.

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