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Once that dries I’m gonna bolt two wheels on, flip it over and coat the bottom. This is just the first coat.

 

8CCE63D1-B5B3-4AB4-A203-B5E6B897ABC7.jpeg

 

3247EDAB-A992-4399-9635-10BD667F3DFD.jpeg

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39 minutes ago, streetpilot said:

UGH! And it was going so well...😣

 

Didn’t seem to bother it at all!

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I’m glad to see some progress! 

 

Im really confused as to how that man is always wearing shorts when he is cutting and welding, and doesn’t burn the shit out his legs. 

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So much win. Nice to see all of these nice parts coming together in what is going to be a great car.

 

On a darker note, installing an aluminum driveshaft is going to be, shall we say, time consuming...😜

 

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i see you have the torque arm installed before the panhard.  how did you make sure it was in the right place?  @Shifty and i were following in MM's directions and it says you need to install the panhard first.  

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On 7/15/2019 at 12:26 PM, White95 said:
Day 44 at work and I'm starting to lose it :confused:
 
SO, since the work load has shifted to "hot stand-by", I checked my build log and decided it was time to order some of the less glamorous stuff needed to finish a few projects. First, I need to tackle the rear end. I'm going to drain the gear oil and 'start fresh' so that I know exactly what fluids I have. TO THE INTERNET!!!! After being confused by the Eaton's recommendation for gear oil and then embarking on an hour long crusade for the truth, I've decided to run Torco RGO 80w90 in my 'new' rear end. Why?
 
811ZHValIdL._SL1500_.jpg
 
 
 

 

 

So this what you decided to go with? I did quite a bit of googling when I had the rearend rebuilt. It still has no oil in it and I cannot decide on the oil to use. I also have a Trutrack

 

Ill have to look up this oil later. Is it mineral based or synthetic? 

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@Prokiller @Shifty 

 

Lateral Location Requirements
Your car must have a sturdy Panhard Bar or Watt’s Link installed before installing the Maximum Motorsports TA. It is YOUR responsibility to determine the suitability of any device other than ours. You are responsible for the consequences if you do not use a strong enough locating device.”

 

What they’re saying is you can’t just delete the upper control arms and rely on the TA to handle lateral movement. They’re not saying you need it installed to properly install the TA but to properly utilize the TA. Also, I set the lower arms to the same length as the LCAs I pulled out. We took several measurements in various directions and used the plum bob method in the PHB directions to properly set the bar.

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2 hours ago, Shifty said:

 

 

So this what you decided to go with? I did quite a bit of googling when I had the rearend rebuilt. It still has no oil in it and I cannot decide on the oil to use. I also have a Trutrack

 

Ill have to look up this oil later. Is it mineral based or synthetic? 

 

The Torco is a mineral oil without friction modifier.

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2 hours ago, Shifty said:

Yes I am curious on this as well. It looks a bit easier on a lift lol.

 

And damn the frame drilling on the PH!

 

Yes. It was a PITA. 

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46 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

And this is why I went irs. Too much time and money to make the sra as strong and track worthy as what you’ve done. Holy hell thats a lot!!!

 

I’m curious to see how yours handles after all that. May have to make a trip to meet up sometime once it’s done.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

For sure. Ironically, I sold my IRS project because I still had $1,500 or so to spend to get it right. For sake of conversation, I have about 1,500 in my SRA setup.

 

In other news, my buddy was cleaning his parts hoard out and I watched an ‘03 IRS with aftermarket parts be sold for $500.

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10 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

 

 


Are you fawking serious???? They’re still going for $900-1500 around here in bad condition.

You should’ve grabbed that and I’d of came and got it from you for $600!!!! emoji1787.png


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I started to jump on it but I didn’t need another heap of metal at the house. So, I talked my buddy into buying it.

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20 hours ago, White95 said:

 

The Torco is a mineral oil without friction modifier.

Awesome I may have to look into that. 

 

I would say 1500 isnt bad to have into the rear end so far. 

I rebuilt the rear first, so that was close to 2k. Then the suspension parts; but i still need the swaybar, then aluminum DS and safety loop.

 

Curious to your thoughts on the setup since mine will be about identical to you. It is also coming along a little slowly due to 2 trips to Europe this year eating its way into the budget. So you will be done it prior to me. 

 

That is crazy that guy let the IRS go for that. But hell of a deal even if it needs rebuilding

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13 minutes ago, Shifty said:

Awesome I may have to look into that. 

 

I would say 1500 isnt bad to have into the rear end so far. 

I rebuilt the rear first, so that was close to 2k. Then the suspension parts; but i still need the swaybar, then aluminum DS and safety loop.

 

Curious to your thoughts on the setup since mine will be about identical to you. It is also coming along a little slowly due to 2 trips to Europe this year eating its way into the budget. So you will be done it prior to me. 

 

That is crazy that guy let the IRS go for that. But hell of a deal even if it needs rebuilding

 

Did a a lot of research before I chose the fluid since my Eaton Truetrack requires no friction modifier.

 

One day when she hits the road I’ll post my thoughts of the new setup. I’ve never driven a SN95 with this much rear suspension work.

 

Luckily, a local enthusiast decided to part his GT out and I bought my built 8.8 for $600. The PHB was used but never installed and was $150. I paid full price for the TA and sway bar kits which were $420 and $650 respectively. That brings the total to $1,820. My math is off. I paid $1k for the struts/shocks and coil overs so add another $500 to bring it to $2,320 and add the upper shock mounts at $188 so I’ve invested $2508. 

 

So, it’s close to a wash with the IRS project I had with the FTBR setup ringing in around $1k, the shocks/coilovers were around $600 and the rear differential cover being $330. That doesn’t include adjustable tie rods, exhaust, rebuilding the chunk with gears.

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You're gonna love the TA White - was one of my favorite mods.  totally changes how well the car drives.  Better, solid, level.  Good stuff man.

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20 hours ago, White95 said:

 

Did a a lot of research before I chose the fluid since my Eaton Truetrack requires no friction modifier.

 

One day when she hits the road I’ll post my thoughts of the new setup. I’ve never driven a SN95 with this much rear suspension work.

 

Luckily, a local enthusiast decided to part his GT out and I bought my built 8.8 for $600. The PHB was used but never installed and was $150. I paid full price for the TA and sway bar kits which were $420 and $650 respectively. That brings the total to $1,820. My math is off. I paid $1k for the struts/shocks and coil overs so add another $500 to bring it to $2,320 and add the upper shock mounts at $188 so I’ve invested $2508. 

 

So, it’s close to a wash with the IRS project I had with the FTBR setup ringing in around $1k, the shocks/coilovers were around $600 and the rear differential cover being $330. That doesn’t include adjustable tie rods, exhaust, rebuilding the chunk with gears.

I havnt been doing as much research on the fluid as I could since I dont want to fill the rear until i can steadily drive it. But I have a Trutrack as well so I may look into what you are using! So I am glad I saw that post lol.

I have never been in one with this much work either. And to go from just springs to the whole thing being upgraded will be interesting. May be hard to get used to since it will be a big jump. 

 

My rear end let go of its seals at @Prokillers house. So that was the tipping point to really get the project underway. Bought the trutrack, 373s(found out car had them the whole time lol), 31 spline axels, rebuild kit, ARP studs, B&M diff cover. Then had it done at a shop and they welded the tubes, cutt off some of the extra mounts on the axels, and painted it. So that was 1k in labor. and about 1100-1200 in parts give or take.  Did not do C-clip eliminators though.

 

I already had koni yellows, So needed the Coils from MM and the TQ Arm. Got a set of used MM race ones for $100. Had the PH bar from @Prokiller already (trade for FR500 steering wheel).  I just need the swaybar and aluminum driveshaft. 

 

I havent thought about the upper shock mounts yet. Were they a pain? 

 

But your car is coming along. Good to see it back in the garage. What is next on the list now that the rear suspension is done? 

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34 minutes ago, Shifty said:

I havnt been doing as much research on the fluid as I could since I dont want to fill the rear until i can steadily drive it. But I have a Trutrack as well so I may look into what you are using! So I am glad I saw that post lol.

I have never been in one with this much work either. And to go from just springs to the whole thing being upgraded will be interesting. May be hard to get used to since it will be a big jump. 

 

My rear end let go of its seals at @Prokillers house. So that was the tipping point to really get the project underway. Bought the trutrack, 373s(found out car had them the whole time lol), 31 spline axels, rebuild kit, ARP studs, B&M diff cover. Then had it done at a shop and they welded the tubes, cutt off some of the extra mounts on the axels, and painted it. So that was 1k in labor. and about 1100-1200 in parts give or take.  Did not do C-clip eliminators though.

 

I already had koni yellows, So needed the Coils from MM and the TQ Arm. Got a set of used MM race ones for $100. Had the PH bar from @Prokiller already (trade for FR500 steering wheel).  I just need the swaybar and aluminum driveshaft. 

 

I havent thought about the upper shock mounts yet. Were they a pain? 

 

But your car is coming along. Good to see it back in the garage. What is next on the list now that the rear suspension is done? 

 

Still have to install the upper shock mounts but I can already see the need for some shorty drill bits to make that task go smooth.

 

Otherwise:

 

  1. Wire + mount Leash Electronics relay box for fan, HVAC and fuel pump
  2. Finalize trunk portion of battery relocation wiring + function test
  3. Brakes + fluid
  4. PS fluid fill
  5. Exhaust 
  6. Coolant 
  7. load start tune a pray it runs?
  8. set PHB to close enough
  9. Send to Chris Carver Motorsports dial suspension in 
  10. Datalog and break in miles 

 

 

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The swaybar looks fun to install as well. lol.

 

Fin A.

 

Yea that list will grow maybe. Mine is a bit larger but I am a ways behind you in things

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12 hours ago, Dalamar said:

You're gonna love the TA White - was one of my favorite mods.  totally changes how well the car drives.  Better, solid, level.  Good stuff man.

 

That sounds amazing!

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17 minutes ago, Shifty said:

The swaybar looks fun to install as well. lol.

 

Fin A.

 

Yea that list will grow maybe. Mine is a bit larger but I am a ways behind you in things

 

It was truly the biggest PITA out of the three.

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1 hour ago, Shifty said:

sounds like I dont want to do it myself lol

 

No! You need an extra pair of hands for sure.

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(Edit: this didn’t happen so I’ll just have a stock hood for now.)

 

 Trading a stock hood for a 96-98 Cobra hood today. This will take the place of the hood I got from B.Mad. I will transfer the Aerocatch latches over but not the Tracspec vents. I’m not sure if/when/where those will be reused. It just rains too much here.

 

F81B150A-223E-49AA-BBDE-BB43DB22C401.jpeg

(Photo credit: Tommy Frank)

 

 I’ve always liked the way the 96-98 Cobra’s looked AND the Whipple will fit under this hood. 😎

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47 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

Needs moar black...........


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Coming right up!

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22 hours ago, Evilcw311 said:

 


Ya damn tease!!!!! emoji1787.png


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I know. The deal fell through for the black hood. 

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On 8/2/2019 at 12:56 PM, Evilcw311 said:

Needs moar black...........


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If he’d put the T1 back on, he’d have moat CF black. Lol

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