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My FAST throttle body came in and I couldn’t throw it on fast enough.



Looks like I’ll have to mill one corner down to clear the coolant line.


At first I didn’t think it would work at all due to this large opening but realized it was a blind hole. What a relief, I was ready to go riot.



The fit will still be very tight due to the upward cant but look how much space I was able to save!



Overall, I’m happy with it and I like the powder coated black housing over the polished Accufab.


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I have two wires to lengthen and then the car side of the Holley is installed!


After that, I’ll have to change a few sensor connectors out under the hood and the rest is “plug and play”!

Decided to leave the ECU in the old air bag spot and parked the cam controller in the glove box.




This module is a bank of capacitors that keeps the dash/ecu powdered up when cycling the key while tuning.





Unless you look for it, you don’t see much of the Holley stuff under here. I can’t wait to be finished and replace this scuzzy carpet.




The last input wire to land is for the HVAC and that’s the most important wire in the universe this time of year.



Moving along with the wiring. So far I’ve gotten the knock sensors connected and I’ve moved on to the IAC and TPS. This is switched power that remains constant during cranking.




All splices are soldered and covered with heat shrink. This was the constant power that goes to the distribution block on the battery.




Fuel pump relay and related wiring.




This is still a mess but I refuse to make any battery connections until I’m ready to start cycling power systems.




Does anyone else sign their work area? I do. This is the route for the battery relocation wiring and the Holley power.




Holy CRAP... It goes into the body 



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The knock sensor wiring was as simple as removing the sub-harness and connecting it to the HEFI harness.




The aforementioned IAC and TPS wiring will run underneath the intake and, once the connectors are swapped, will be a very clean install I think.




Need to add four new wires to the J1B connector for the new IAC and then it’s just a matter of activating it in the software.




I’ve forgotten what a semi complete interior looks like. Can’t wait to be “finished building” so I can clean and paint the interior and body!



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Small but meaningful progress today. Pulled this triple gauge panel out for @lwarrior1016 since he traded me the lower radiator hose I needed for it.




Found out this random connector I’ve held on to fits the TPS sensor in my new throttle body.




Connected the Holley input wire for the HVAC controls and that’s about where I’ll stop today.




This how the Holley will control my AC, for those interested:




Played hooky a few weeks back and decided to tackle some more wiring. I’ll address the IAC wiring first.





Bought these gimmicky little shits last year to try out and they actually work pretty well.




Plus, I got to sit inside and work on it.




As soon as the metri-pack pins arrive I’ll be able to finalize this harness.




TPS wiring




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Here is an idea of what the wiring looks like installed. A few strategic ty-wraps to secure it, some wire loom on that phaser sensor wiring and it will look factory.




Here’s an idea of what the wiring looks like cleaned up a little 






After the correct connectors finally arrived, I completed the new IAC circuit and installed the pins into the AMPSEAL connector. That is, after I figured out how the fuck to install said pins.




Following the LS/LT diagram, I confirmed 46.7 ohms across one of the coils and installed the pins.





Too easy!




Like it was meant to be!




Finalized the cable route for the IAC but still haven’t addressed that stupid looking TPS. Hmm, I may just cut that boot off... Brb





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Yup, I’ll say that worked well! So, I’ve RE-FINALIZED the IAC/TPS wiring and just need to pull the slack back under the intake.






Swapped out the steering column bearing/seal ( thanks to @Akurma for the idea ) and holy crap was the original part in sad shape! Not only was it coming apart, the bearing was seized and missing pieces!









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Fuel line adaptor:




Coolant hose adaptor:




Put the rear on jack stands and started planning my new fuel line route.




I’m pretty sure I can do a better job than this hurried bullshit.




Now that I know NHRA rules forbid fuel lines in the driveshaft tunnel, I’ll be routing them along the subframe connector.




The challenge is going to be getting around the TA crossmember.




There will be 100% more T56 Magnum in this void very soon!



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Much better.






I’ll have to pull that tail pipe out to get the adel clamps above the axle but I’m not tremendously worried about it.








Small but meaningful progress after work yesterday, 8-3-20. Mounted the AFPR, extended the fuel pressure sensor wiring, secured the wiring under the frame rail and installed the AC accumulator.








After looking at this ^^^ again, I may try to route the wiring behind the accumulator.




For my next trick, I’ll be connecting my fuel system in this manner:




Took some time this evening to revamp my fuel lines for the 5ohh. I’m not sold on the line for the fuel rails but it’ll do for now. I need some more hose to make a long enough line.











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2 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

Feel like I already seen this somewhere before but can’t quite remember where.................

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you see the pictures on Tapatalk?

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What's left in order to make the maiden voyage:

  1. Swap driveshaft flange
  2. Square k-member
  3. install driveshaft
  4. fill transmission with fluid
  5. install shifter
  6. secure T56 crossmember/mount
  7. install exhaust
  8. adjust clutch cable
  9. reinstall front brakes
  10. stop rear 8.8 cover leak and top off fluid
  11. replace leaky, rear brake line
  12. bleed the brakes 
  13. Wheels/tires

Maybe a few things I’m forgetting? Such as some sort of cold air intake.

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New driveshaft in!




Shifter installed!




So beefy!



New stainless steel brake lines installed! 


This is actually the best fitting mid-pipe I’ve ever had and it even clears the torque arm!



Firewall adjuster installed!



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On 10/15/2020 at 11:24 PM, streetpilot said:

Anything new? I always look forward to seeing new progress in your thread.

Yes! I drove it! I have been neglecting this thread and I will now drop a massive update.

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A little back story to reaching that milestone.


The car developed a tick and it progressed into a knock. Oh shit. Turns out the bolts for the passenger side cam phasers weren't torqued down and I came millimeters away from demise. Not good.


50519153638_d964670eb8_b.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


50520017557_ef1030a17a_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


50520041282_4f1e7b7ade_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


50519126238_b86f06cc0f_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


I fought with the coolant system due to trapped air and a brand new, faulty thermostat. Wound up using a vacuum bleeder and a Ford thermostat with bypass holes drilled in it to get the soaring coolant temperature down. It would flash to 225* F rather quickly but now has settled around 178* F. My plan is to refresh the system with 50/50 coolant and a new thermostat now that I can trust it.


50519144618_99acfaca2b_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


50520041332_a4259f4b31_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


The hydroboost is disconnected since I have yet to install the Volvo power steering pump. This will happen sooner than later because I have NO brakes. It stops if you judo kick the pedal and that is the main thing stopping me from driving the car.


50520029052_05898a6e0b_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


50520028812_9ee7ac292c_4k.jpgProject Unicorn by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr


Made the decision to put all of the original body panels on, including the vented hood, for a multitude of reasons. 


1. The fact I hadn't cut the Cobra hood for the Aerocatch latches yet. 

2. The laser red trunk didn't have a key and I was having trouble swapping the lock cylinders.

3. It's closer to one color this way. 

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you have to be pretty happy with that sound I would imagine, or I would be.  I feel like I am a week or two behind you as I just sorted out the problem I was having with my turn signal inside and got to see them flash correctly.

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39 minutes ago, ttocs said:

you have to be pretty happy with that sound I would imagine, or I would be.  I feel like I am a week or two behind you as I just sorted out the problem I was having with my turn signal inside and got to see them flash correctly.

I am very pleased with the exhaust note. It also made my truck sound like crap in comparison 😆


I haven’t kept this thread updated lately and need to fill in the blanks.

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4 hours ago, streetpilot said:

Those pics are great. I always wondered what we were missing.

Next up is a front brake change to hopefully shift some of the bias to the front. I decided to install the used stuff while I sorted things out and the new brakes in the rear grab first.

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More backdated build stuff! This installment shows me putting the headlights in, bolting that sexy T1 on and swapping to some matte black tail light bezels.






















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More backdated build stuff! 

The throttle cable needs to be adjusted because you essentially have to stomp it to make it move. That doesn’t help at all with a touchy twin-disc clutch that just chatters away unless you rev it. Gave bending the throttle cable bracket forward to lessen the angle of pull a try. The throttle is much smoother now.

The manual steering with a small Momo steering wheel also sucks major ass so I need to move forward with the Volvo electric power steering install.

The front brakes aren’t grabbing much at all even after several rounds of bleeding so more bleeding is in order. The rear brakes work, which meant I didn’t drive into that fence. Parked it and the e-brake cable snapped. Good times.

The FL500s oil filter interfered with the sway bar and I had to switch to a much shorter Wix filter to fit. I have a relocation and oil cooler installation in my future.

Overall, I’m genuinely stoked for this milestone. I have a tuning session for Tuesday and my buddy is loaning me his pneumatic brake bleed setup. I’m putting this bitch on the road one way or another.

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More backdated build stuff! 

Cleaned the patio and garage up. It’s now time to put my feet up and relax.




New family portrait!




Oct 18th


Now featuring 100% more dome light, door chime and radio! I had taken those fuses out to preserve battery power when the car wasn’t running. 





The power windows and the door locks don’t work. A relay clicks in the trunk when you try the locks but I’ll save that for another day. These doors were from Space Ghost (my 98 GT that I totaled in 2016 for the newer crowd) and it was having some intermittent issues with that shit.


Oct 20



Oct 25


Started on the power steering project today. Here is the step by step process:

Step 1: Jack the car up and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the tire. Decide against pulling the fender and bumper cover. Realize I need a hole saw and drive to Harbor Freight for some HIGH QUALITY TOOLS. 


Step 2: After the great Harbor Freight computer system fiasco of 2020, I stopped by O’reilly’s for some steering rack bellows. Finally returned home and proceeded to cut a large hole in my car.


Step 3: Mock the PS pump up to figure the brackets out. This was made easy by using the jack and taking careful measurements without using any measuring devices.


Why does this remind me of whack-a-mole?

Step 4: Start by drilling a few holes in the hastily constructed stainless steel forward bracket. Realize the battery in my DeWalt drill was low and swap it for the Craftsman drill. Furiously drilled into the stainless plate without a drop of lubricant until the shrill shriek of a suffering drill bit could be heard a block away. It was all going well until this battery died too. 


Well. Shit. I’ll finish this tomorrow-ish.


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More backdated build stuff!


Oct 26


Finished the installation of the pump using the factory mounting bracket from the Volvo. 










Did a round of brake bleeding with the “Snap-On Ultimate power bleeder” ....


....and I think it’s good enough. Now, I just need to finish the power steering system to see if they really work or not. 


I didn’t get a picture of the canister in use so, use your imagination.








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More backdated build stuff!

Oct 31







This is when I realized I had the incorrect high pressure fitting.











This is the correct fitting.




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