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Lost a turn signal bulb and decided to try Sylvania’s Zevo Super Bright 3157 LEDS.


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Not sure the color is what I want but I’ll give it a few days. If not, I’ll try their amber version next.

Edit: Couldn’t help myself so I asked my local O’reilly’s to order me the amber bulbs and I’ll pick them up tomorrow. If I like them, I’ll pick up another set for the front and move these white lights to the reverse light spot.


 

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Decided to try a pack of the red bulbs and I’m loving them too. The driver side has three incandescent bulbs. The passenger side has LEDs in the outboard and middle slot. 


Running lights:

 

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Brake lights:

 

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Now to address these mismatched license plate lights. 

 

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Finished the LED, rear bulbs swap up and snapped several pictures.
 

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My wife pulled up so I was able to snap a few pictures with her car. Looked cool with the steamy exhaust!
 

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Treated the Unicorn to a wheel alignment at Simple Simon Tires this morning. They did a professional job and met the spec I requested. What I wasn’t prepared for was how the car reacted to it. Holy hell did I spend my money wisely on the suspension setup. 
 

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-1.9* Camber

+8.9 Caster 

.25 total toe in

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Swapped out the crappy aftermarket carpet for the used oem carpet and I’m more than happy with the resulting fit.
 

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Finally installed the passenger seat.

 

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January 09

 

Had a very good time driving the car today to a dyno day in Slidell, LA (1.5 hour ride) Made some new friends, met a few guys I’ve known online for a while and now have an idea of my power level.

 

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The guys at Rusty Knuckle Garage in Slidell put on a good dyno day and were very hospitable.


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The car made a best of 419/393 and we feel it has more in it.

 

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The dip during the second pull was this drop in injector duty cycle. I have a larger set on hand for the eventual flex fuel setup and I may just install them now to see if the issue persists.

 

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Stopped in Hammond @ Hi-Ho Barbecue for some BBQ beef sammiches.

 

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I’ve commissioned John at JSR to 3D print me a gauge panel that also accommodated a two USB 2.0 bulkhead plate. Judging from this picture, he didn’t disappoint. I’ll have it by the weekend and should have it installed. Now I’ll be able to connect to my Holley devices without having cables running out of the dash. 
 

Look at me worrying about aesthetics 😜

 

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its hard to tell from the pictures so i'm going to ask.  i tried LED bulbs in my tails and pulled them out because the change from running light to brake light was minimal.  i didn't feel safe that the common idiot behind me would recognize the difference and see that i was braking.  Do yours have enough of a brightness change?

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Took the MM tag frame off the truck and put it on the car. 

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I haven’t touched the car since the dyno day but I finally started to attack my workshop. Again.

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Seems I spent more time working on the car and less time on anything else. Your workspace can get away from you if you let it.

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This is officially the first time I’ve cleaned the workshop AND been able to move the unicorn under its own power since 2016.

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My “critical path” list is the shortest it has ever been.

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So... Let’s talk about the fuel leak. It’s most certainly coming from the opening the fuel pump fit in. My heart sank when I found this in the shop.

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Sonofabitch.... I haven’t had another 94-97 tank on my property so this HAS to have come from my car. I have to dig through my Flickr account for the fuel system install pictures to verify this. At least I can do this and my wife won’t bang my mirrors anymore.

 

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The good news is I found a picture that proved I have a retainer in place. The bad news is that I still have to pull the tank to check of the o-ring is.

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Good thing I ordered a new pair, just in case.

 

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On 1/14/2021 at 10:34 AM, Prokiller said:

its hard to tell from the pictures so i'm going to ask.  i tried LED bulbs in my tails and pulled them out because the change from running light to brake light was minimal.  i didn't feel safe that the common idiot behind me would recognize the difference and see that i was braking.  Do yours have enough of a brightness change?

 


 

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Decided to put the car on jack stands last night to address a few tasks today. My intention was to add another degree to my pinion angle, replace the fuel hat seal and install the exhaust clamp/hangers. Started the car, pulled it up on blocks and started to jack the rear by the TA. While I was placing the jack stands, I noticed a few puddles of water and was immediately worried.


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My initial search proved inconclusive and I couldn’t find any leaks. Shined the light under the intake and found a significant amount of water. This had me sick! I couldn’t bring myself to chase this further and went inside for the night.

 

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Knowing that something was very wrong, I took my sweet time this morning before I started to dig into the engine. After I worked up the never I started to pull things apart.

 

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It didn’t take me long to find the source of the leak. There is a cracked water passage above the #2 piston. Pulled the dipstick and the oil looked mint. Thank God for that.

 

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For those who know the history, they know why this is so devastating to me and they’d understand why my initial notion was to part the car out.

 

That just isn’t going to happen!

 

The plan is to move the rotating assembly to a new block but with 12.5:1 pistons. I have never missed an opportunity to upgrade something in the face of tragedy and this is no exception.


Stay tuned!!

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5 hours ago, streetpilot said:

Is this a common failure in Coyote blocks? Any idea what the cause might be?


Neglect on the owners part.

 

Got so wrapped up with a three week outage at work, then winterizing my home (in south Louisiana) THEN working 48 hrs straight....

 

that I forgot to flush the water and refill with 50/50

 

:(

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We’re going disassemble the engine and rebuild it into a new FoMoCo Gen 2 block with JE 12.5:1 pistons/rings, L&M intake cams and a Boundary billet crank gear. 
 

I’ve never missed an opportunity to upgrade following disaster.

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I’ve added an Innovators West harmonic balancer, a flex fuel sensor, a new wideband 02 (DLG-1) with dual sensors,  a new steering wheel, wiring harness/reverse lockout relay control for the T56 magnum, license plate light lenses, coil pack bolts and hood bumpers to the parts list for this round of work.

 

Last Sunday we pulled the engine and @LWARRIOR1016whisked it away to an unnamed government facility for brainwashing. 

 

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😭

 

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Just look at how slick those bearings are! This engine was mint.

 

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Factory forged steel crank, rods and the new pistons have been sent out for balancing. I’m going to spin this beast to the moon now.
 

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There was an issue with the wrist pins being too short and it took JE Pistons SIX WEEKS to rectify THEIR mistake. This also meant the crank had to be balanced again.

 

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After William returned from eight weeks of Operation Don’t Shower, he got down to business. The new engine is assembled and ready to make noise!

 

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There were a couple of hiccups along the way but nothing a couple of men couldn’t sort through. Especially by me throwing a little money around, haha!

 

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Didn’t forget the damn antifreeze this time!

 

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Wound up having to take the battery out of Williams truck and still had to jump the starter solenoid to start the car. Once it did start, I was able to start her by the key.

 

 

I’m thankful for William’s hard work and determination. I have been sick at home with Covid and was very easily fatigued. He wouldn’t let me quit and we pushed through. I’m returning to work tomorrow and I have a bunch of small tasks left to go.

 

stay tuned

 

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On 8/6/2021 at 3:42 AM, ttocs said:

6 weeks to get the right pins, sounds like my karma but at least its moving.


Yeah, they really screwed the timeline up for us pretty bad. All behind us now.

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Took a couple of tries but I have the coolant system back at a steady 172° at warm idle and leaking around 192° while beating on it.

 

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Drove it around and flogged it a little bit. She is a bit rowdier than before and I can’t wait to get the flex fuel sensor wired in to try E85 out.

 

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Put the Unicorn on jack stand the fuel tank and investigated the cause of the leak.

 

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Just as I had suspected, it came from the fuel hanger not being properly secured. The Pro-M hanger came with a “three winged” retainer and the stock tank uses a “four winged” retainer.


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Quantum Fuel Systems 340 LPH in Pro-M hanger

 

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Properly secured like Ford intended:

 

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Drained the tank after that was completed which started the new fuel level gauge install. The debris was already in the bucket

 

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Let’s take a moment to look at this kinky mess

 

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All done!! Everything is tight and secured.

 

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Wiring!!! Fuel level gauge installed and partially calibrated. I didn’t take pictures of the process but this was how it went:

Setting the Existing Sender Type

1. The brown and black wires are used to set the sender type. The gauge ships pre-programmed to read GM 0-90 ohm senders.
If using a 0-90 ohm GM sender, separately insulate the ends of the brown and black wires with electrical tape, and coil them up
under the dash.

2. If any other sender type is required, connect a Radio Shack 275-1556 or equivalent momentary button to the black and brown
wires (see illustration above), or alternately touch the stripped ends of the black and brown wires to simulate pushing the button. 3. Press and hold the button, and apply power to the gauge. After 10 seconds, the display will momentarily display a number with a
dash on either side indicating the gauge is in sender select mode.

4. Allow the display to move to the appropriate number per the sender select chart (see next page), and release the push button.
The display can be incremented to the next position by momentarily pressing the button.

5. Remove power from the gauge to store the new sender type by turning off the ignition switch.

6. Re-apply power to the gauge, and confirm that it reads the proper fuel level. If the proper fuel level is not read, return to step 3
and repeat the sender select process. If the proper fuel level is still not indicated, perform a Custom Sender Calibration.

7. Remove power from the gauge by turning off the ignition switch.

8. Remove the momentary button if it was used, and tape the ends of the brown and black wires so they will not touch.

9. Coil the wires up under the dash.

 

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The gauge is reading 10% after introducing 3.001 gallons (dammit) in the tank. I won’t be satisfied with the calibration until I see what it reads full.


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Tidied the trunk wiring up some but this still needs more work to be completed.

 

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