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Lowered the idle speed from 875 to 650 rpms and it sounds very stock. I’m very happy with it.


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Lost a turn signal bulb and decided to try Sylvania’s Zevo Super Bright 3157 LEDS.




Not sure the color is what I want but I’ll give it a few days. If not, I’ll try their amber version next.

Edit: Couldn’t help myself so I asked my local O’reilly’s to order me the amber bulbs and I’ll pick them up tomorrow. If I like them, I’ll pick up another set for the front and move these white lights to the reverse light spot.


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Decided to try a pack of the red bulbs and I’m loving them too. The driver side has three incandescent bulbs. The passenger side has LEDs in the outboard and middle slot. 

Running lights:




Brake lights:








Now to address these mismatched license plate lights. 



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Speaking of mismatched reverse lights, it isn’t the bulbs at all. The housing is burnt internally and needs to be replaced.





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Let’s take a break from lighting and move onto cold air v2.0!! 







Installed the IAT sensor.




The finished product!


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Ok, back to lighting 🤪 Found a vendor with the black housing DEPO corners and ordered a set. 







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Finished the LED, rear bulbs swap up and snapped several pictures.





My wife pulled up so I was able to snap a few pictures with her car. Looked cool with the steamy exhaust!










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Treated the Unicorn to a wheel alignment at Simple Simon Tires this morning. They did a professional job and met the spec I requested. What I wasn’t prepared for was how the car reacted to it. Holy hell did I spend my money wisely on the suspension setup. 






-1.9* Camber

+8.9 Caster 

.25 total toe in

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Swapped out the crappy aftermarket carpet for the used oem carpet and I’m more than happy with the resulting fit.






Finally installed the passenger seat.





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January 09


Had a very good time driving the car today to a dyno day in Slidell, LA (1.5 hour ride) Made some new friends, met a few guys I’ve known online for a while and now have an idea of my power level.



The guys at Rusty Knuckle Garage in Slidell put on a good dyno day and were very hospitable.






The car made a best of 419/393 and we feel it has more in it.




The dip during the second pull was this drop in injector duty cycle. I have a larger set on hand for the eventual flex fuel setup and I may just install them now to see if the issue persists.



Stopped in Hammond @ Hi-Ho Barbecue for some BBQ beef sammiches.





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If you listen close between 0:23 & 0:25 you can hear the dip in the run.

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I’ve commissioned John at JSR to 3D print me a gauge panel that also accommodated a two USB 2.0 bulkhead plate. Judging from this picture, he didn’t disappoint. I’ll have it by the weekend and should have it installed. Now I’ll be able to connect to my Holley devices without having cables running out of the dash. 

Look at me worrying about aesthetics 😜



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its hard to tell from the pictures so i'm going to ask.  i tried LED bulbs in my tails and pulled them out because the change from running light to brake light was minimal.  i didn't feel safe that the common idiot behind me would recognize the difference and see that i was braking.  Do yours have enough of a brightness change?

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Yes, definitely. I will take a video from various angles to support this.



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Took the MM tag frame off the truck and put it on the car. 


I haven’t touched the car since the dyno day but I finally started to attack my workshop. Again.


Seems I spent more time working on the car and less time on anything else. Your workspace can get away from you if you let it.


This is officially the first time I’ve cleaned the workshop AND been able to move the unicorn under its own power since 2016.


My “critical path” list is the shortest it has ever been.


So... Let’s talk about the fuel leak. It’s most certainly coming from the opening the fuel pump fit in. My heart sank when I found this in the shop.


Sonofabitch.... I haven’t had another 94-97 tank on my property so this HAS to have come from my car. I have to dig through my Flickr account for the fuel system install pictures to verify this. At least I can do this and my wife won’t bang my mirrors anymore.



The good news is I found a picture that proved I have a retainer in place. The bad news is that I still have to pull the tank to check of the o-ring is.


Good thing I ordered a new pair, just in case.



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On 1/14/2021 at 10:34 AM, Prokiller said:

its hard to tell from the pictures so i'm going to ask.  i tried LED bulbs in my tails and pulled them out because the change from running light to brake light was minimal.  i didn't feel safe that the common idiot behind me would recognize the difference and see that i was braking.  Do yours have enough of a brightness change?



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Decided to put the car on jack stands last night to address a few tasks today. My intention was to add another degree to my pinion angle, replace the fuel hat seal and install the exhaust clamp/hangers. Started the car, pulled it up on blocks and started to jack the rear by the TA. While I was placing the jack stands, I noticed a few puddles of water and was immediately worried.



My initial search proved inconclusive and I couldn’t find any leaks. Shined the light under the intake and found a significant amount of water. This had me sick! I couldn’t bring myself to chase this further and went inside for the night.




Knowing that something was very wrong, I took my sweet time this morning before I started to dig into the engine. After I worked up the never I started to pull things apart.






It didn’t take me long to find the source of the leak. There is a cracked water passage above the #2 piston. Pulled the dipstick and the oil looked mint. Thank God for that.










For those who know the history, they know why this is so devastating to me and they’d understand why my initial notion was to part the car out.


That just isn’t going to happen!


The plan is to move the rotating assembly to a new block but with 12.5:1 pistons. I have never missed an opportunity to upgrade something in the face of tragedy and this is no exception.

Stay tuned!!

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5 hours ago, streetpilot said:

Is this a common failure in Coyote blocks? Any idea what the cause might be?

Neglect on the owners part.


Got so wrapped up with a three week outage at work, then winterizing my home (in south Louisiana) THEN working 48 hrs straight....


that I forgot to flush the water and refill with 50/50



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that does suck.  But lets learn from it, move on and start making a plan for bigger and better.  What can all be used again, what is going to have to be replaced?

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We’re going disassemble the engine and rebuild it into a new FoMoCo Gen 2 block with JE 12.5:1 pistons/rings, L&M intake cams and a Boundary billet crank gear. 

I’ve never missed an opportunity to upgrade following disaster.

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I’ve added an Innovators West harmonic balancer, a flex fuel sensor, a new wideband 02 (DLG-1) with dual sensors,  a new steering wheel, wiring harness/reverse lockout relay control for the T56 magnum, license plate light lenses, coil pack bolts and hood bumpers to the parts list for this round of work.


Last Sunday we pulled the engine and @LWARRIOR1016whisked it away to an unnamed government facility for brainwashing. 















Just look at how slick those bearings are! This engine was mint.






Factory forged steel crank, rods and the new pistons have been sent out for balancing. I’m going to spin this beast to the moon now.








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