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My latest, gibberish aka to-do list:

 

  • MAP mount and hose?
  • Noise filters??
  • Cold air.. IAT.. clamps?
  • PCV setup?
  • Dipstick.. trim? - complete
  • Tighten fittings @ MS
  • Brake bleeder screws
  • Swap rear calipers? 
  • Fill/bleed brakes
  • PS fluids/bleed 
  • Secure hvac stuff
  • Wire fan and hvac stuff
  • Coolant tank line to rad
  • Ground wire from block to trunk - complete 
  • Ground wire from block to front chassis - complete 
  • Holley HP +\- wires to battery - complete-ish
  • Relay with diode in turn on lead
  • wire relay to fuel pump 
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AE2E1A09-5366-4B73-8926-3A077317739E.jpeg

 

Since I decided the #2AWG wasn’t enough for my liking, I got my hands on some 3/0 welding cable for the battery relocation. 

 

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Oh no! This moron is cutting holes in his car! 😵

 

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There is a big mess to be sorted through in the truck. 

 

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Preliminary routing is exactly what I was after but now I have to work on securing them safely.

 

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Go back to sleep... 

 

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Took some time today to “finalize” the engine compartment side of the battery relocation and to also install the O2 sensor.

 

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The ground cable from the trunk terminates at the passenger side engine mount.

 

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I followed the brake line and took care to keep it away from the exhaust.

 

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This needs no explanation..

 

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Didn’t have the proper size heat shrink so I will revisit that never.

 

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Terminated the positive cable to the starter.

 

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Overview at this point:

 

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Mechanical grounding point!

 

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One of the biggest mistakes people people can make when grounding electrical components is not properly preparing the area for a good connection. This is done by removing any paint at the termination point.

 

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What are are you looking at?

 

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Ta da...

 

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Its ugly but have you seen the rest of the car!?

 

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This was my preliminary route for the 02 sensor wiring...

 

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...but I ran out of tywraps! Another time..

 

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1 hour ago, ttocs said:

agreed about getting rid of any paint around the ground connection but not sure why you didn't grind any off around the bolt?  That is the critical part.

 

You are right and I must’ve overlooked that. I’ll fix that now.

 

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On 3/31/2019 at 12:32 AM, White95 said:

 

Actually, yes.

 

LOL.  Thats funny.  Anytime i mention that, people look at me like im stooopid.

 

the stuff works great for lubing O-rings and hoses going onto hose nipples. 

  • Haha 1
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2 hours ago, Evilcw311 said:


Which kit is that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That would be the 1300 HP dual pump setup in their 03/04 tank with fuel rails

 

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This will be way more fuel system than required with my proposed setup but I wanted plenty of head room. I highly doubt my car will ever make 1000 hp if it doesn’t run 😆😆😆

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I really like the ECU mounted here instead of on the passenger floor board. 

 

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Thankfully I was able to reinstall the HVAC duct because God knows we can’t live without AC in Louisiana 😉

 

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Not much to show but the Holley ECU is mostly wired into the power system. All that remains is wiring up my relay box for fuel, engine fan and the hvac.

 

I am beyond excited to finally hear this MFer run!

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I'm going to pick up some bulkhead fittings and a 200A circuit breaker to finalize my battery relocation. This is roughly what I'm going to do. I'm going to use the bulkhead fittings on the actual box to make adding a kill switch simple later. Also, it will give me an external connection point to keep unnecessary wiring out of the box.

 

 

battery box.png

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This is what I did to relocate my battery. I will add in a battery cut off switch later. Also, I didn't draw where the power harness is ground on the driver's side frame rail. 
 
attachFull1165
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5 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said:

I heard it was getting parted out for a jap car.............. emoji1787.png


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The twist? It’s LS powered 🤣

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Scored a bunch of spare stuff from a buddy who was going to toss it out.  
1: Cobra bumper w/ header panel
2: Side skirts
3: Trunk lid
4: decent tail lights
5: Uber dark, ninja tail lights  
6: decent drivers mirror
7: passenger side side skirt extension  
8: rear quarter trim
9: Inner fender trim
10: A-pillar trim
11: sail panel trim
12: Momo Corse steering wheel, 90’s baby

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Going to have this recovered in black leather with a red stripe at 12 o’clock. Gives me an excuse to get a quick release hub!!

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On 4/27/2019 at 8:08 PM, Evilcw311 said:

I heard it was getting parted out for a Corvette.............. emoji1787.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Fixed

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Day 44 at work and I'm starting to lose it :confused:
 
SO, since the work load has shifted to "hot stand-by", I checked my build log and decided it was time to order some of the less glamorous stuff needed to finish a few projects. First, I need to tackle the rear end. I'm going to drain the gear oil and 'start fresh' so that I know exactly what fluids I have. TO THE INTERNET!!!! After being confused by the Eaton's recommendation for gear oil and then embarking on an hour long crusade for the truth, I've decided to run Torco RGO 80w90 in my 'new' rear end. Why?
 
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Detroit Truetrac High quality mineral gear lubes are required for use in Detroit Truetrac differentials. Regardless of the lube type, always use a GL5 rated lube with the least amount of friction modifier. Mineral lubes lacking friction modifiers (limited-slip additives) were historically recommended for all Truetrac applications because friction modifiers can slightly reduce the bias ratio (limited-slip aggressiveness) of Truetrac differentials. However, to address the continually increasing power outputs of modern powertrains, many vehicle manufacturers have switched to synthetic lubricants as a counter measure for increased axle temperatures and prolonged service intervals. In general, consult the vehicle owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication type, weight and fill volume. This will ensure lube compatibility with the seal materials and bearings used in the axle. Eaton Performance technical support is available for any concerns in lube selection.
 
A quality petroleum (mineral) based oil is recommended. Synthetic oils and friction modifiers should not be used, as they will decrease overall performance.
 
Clear as mud right? The general consensus from Eaton Tech support is that their Truetrac diff *will* work with synthetic gear oils BUT will have a lower friction bias when compared to conventional oil. Thank you google.
 
Also, I need to strip it, clean it and POR 15 it prior to installation. Which shouldn't be too difficult but I only have about 30 minutes in the evening to do so. I have at least 4 more days to work.
 
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*sigh*
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Got called into work really early so, I left early and took some time to begin preparing the “new” 8.8 for this weekend. Did so by removing the calipers + brackets, rotors, brake lines + brackets and the old shocks. Yukon Gear is sending me some new axle stickers! 

 

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Yukon 31 spline axles 

 

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LPW Ultimate 8.8 differential cover (duh)

 

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Strange Engineering c-clip eliminators with tapered bearings. 

 

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Did some more wire brush work to the 8.8 after getting home from work. Prep work is where you make or break a project right? I need to remove the shock mounts, brake brackets to scrub a little more of the rough stuff but I'm not shooting for the moon here. Semi-gloss POR15 can only look so good...

 

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Also ordered a $34 ARP balancer bolt so i can get this Innovators West part installed. It's pretty sexy for a chunk of metal...

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