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94 gt with ride-tech air-ride install

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Just got the first box-O-parts to install for the air-ride system. The kit looks freakin awsome with all the parts lookin top-notch!

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I opted to go for the self-leveling system because I am building the stereo so that I can take it out easily for track days. With this now the ride-height will stay the same no matter how many people or subs I put in the car. Below is the stepper motors that will be mounted to the car, and that swing arm will go to part fo the suspension so that the cpu will know how high/low the car is all the time. To the left is the display.

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The tank fits nicely behind the seat where I will later make a cover to go over it.

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The display is the perfect size for what I have planned. This is an overhead consol for an explorer that I am going to mount on the roof and then flush-mount the display in where the light use to be.

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Stay tuned, just opened the box 15 mins ago. I will be taking my time on the install to make sure its done right as I want to be sure it lasts a long long time.....

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Bad ass Scott, can't wait for the end result...

However...

I HOPE there is a pressure switch to keep that tank from over-pressurizing!! As a reformed mini trucker, I've seen more than a few truck beds ripped apart from a blown out air tank.

Jus sayin

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Same type that shuts off an air compressor in a shop and kicks it on at preset intervals.

(ie= low pressure on @ 70 psi, high pressure off at 150 psi)

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not sure how long it will take but I don't rush my projects. Normally its just about getting time to work on them when I am not feeling bad but on this one I am a bit out of my element as I have never done one.

Where would I look for this pressure switch?

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after looking into it, There is a pressure sensor that is in the tank to report pressure to the cpu in the kit. Also makes tank pressure viewable from the display too. Now are you talking about some hardware as a back-up to this one for safety or would/should this one be ok?

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That should do the trick. The kits that we installed were simple, unregulated and FAST!! The electronic controls of your kit are leaps above the 10 switch boxes I used.

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agreed but that is also why they have gone so far now. I am looking forward to testing out the performance/handling change afterwards. just wish I knew jack about shocks/struts to know what to get. Ride tech has a couple different that they sell from cheap to holy-crap pricing and not sure if it would be worth it to keep it all the same brand or to go with one of the other well known brands. I want something at least single adjustable but other then that I have no clue.....

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progress is slow as honestly I am out of my element and trying to fit all this around the stereo I already have planned. If anyone sees anything alarming that I should not be doing please say so. I know the tanks ideal location is not inside the passenger area but it will have a pressure sensor on it to control it and there is not much space left in the trunk unless its just right in the middle.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2395420/1994-ford-mustang-gt-coupe-2d/page-8

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thought I updated this page already, strange... got alot done, still got alot to go. The most time was spent just trying to see where I could fit the componants. Got the tank mounted and it is super solid mounted to the wall where the rear seat use to be. With the seat all the way back there is still plenty of room between the tank/seat and still room under it for the valves/cpu for the system. You can see the valves between them there and the cpu is down there as well but can't be seen. To keep it easily servicable I am made an aluminum tray I am going to mount the cpu and the valves on. The front will tuck under the front seat mounting bolts and the back will be held down by a bracket that will rest aginst the tank to hold it down. I will be able to just loosen the seat bolts and slide the tray out for easy access to check valves or wiring to the cpu.

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The compressor was mounted in the trunk above the drivers side wheel well. It was an unused corner which is hard to find in my trunk as the stereo is going to take up most of it. I also added a layer of mass loaded vinyl behind it, and also on the other side of the panel to keep the noise back there.

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Bigger/better pics are avialable here.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2395420/1994-ford-mustang-gt-coupe-2d/page-8#15863800

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got some more done today only to realize - shit that won't work there... Made the tray that I was going to mount the valves/cpu too and got them all mounted. installed it for mach-up and discoverd that the seat when back would interfear with the wires/hoses comming in/out of the two and probably be a problem. So instead I moved the valves into the middle of the tray and decided to put the cpu under the pass seat. The tray mounts down using the seat bolts and the other side is held down by the tank.

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Here is with the seat all the way back/down. Just enough space. Now its almost time to start running wires/hoses as well as start on mounting the overhead consol and flushing the display into it. That is all stuff I have done before so hopefully it will go faster.

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all 8 valves are in an aluminum block. Not sure how I would go about moving it closer to one with out moving it away from the others. I am trying to keep everything easy to reach and easy to service if I need too.

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I was wondering what I was doing wrong there. I am not lookin to make it hop. As much fun as it would be to make my mustang look like it was humping the honda in front I will hold that urge to myself - ooops....

Got the wiring done today except for the overhead which is just a single cable. All the wiring is held down with cable clips and the extra wire was able to be tucked behind/under the tank which makes it easier to pull the tray our if needed. I used a small Phoenix Gold dist block that I ran 8 awg power/ground to and can then split it off from there to the individual pieces.

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With the seat back all the way there is just enough space to still run the hoses. Now I am takin a break before I go take down the headliner to see about the overhead install.

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not sure what you mean there, I am lucky if I get a couple of hours a day that I am not feeling bad and can work on it. Spent some time on it this morning and now am not so sure how I feel... I never know when a bad day will get worse....

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still been busy working but just not enough done to take pics to show. Started on the display portion of the install. I decided to flush mount the display into an overhead consol originally made for an explorer, so there are two custom parts to this part of the project. I need to modify the area that use to house the lights for the overhead to mount the ride-tech display in as well as modify the car to fit the consol. I started with the display and this is where I am at now. I am 95% happy/done with it and there are only a couple of small areas I want to addres prior to paint but you get the idea.

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the 2nd pic is the mounting of the overheads mounting bracket. I made two of the mounting holes into slots so that I could move the bracket up/back a 1/4" to get it in the correct position. After that it was just a matter of drilling out the slots at the bottom of the pic. There are some clips on the overhead that snap into those and the back is held in place with screws.

More to come.

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not sure how long it will take but I don't rush my projects. Normally its just about getting time to work on them when I am not feeling bad but on this one I am a bit out of my element as I have never done one.

Where would I look for this pressure switch?

dude i've been trying to tell you all along that a pressure switch is the most important thing, especially if for some strange reason you feel the tank should be directly behind your seat! sometimes a compressor can malfunction and run nonstop no matter the back pressure and thats how tanks explode, and when they do, well lets just say it WILL be all bad! get a pressure switch scott seriously!

where you bought your kit should have a pressure switch that you run to a relay. m.i.c. makes the best most reliable ones i,ve ever used. like i told you before they can burn up easily. relay...:) 35-40 amp i think

Edited by tony
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dude relax that post was from a week ago and the switch and the water trap are on my list and I have already looked into the switch its not a big deal. I am concentrating on what I am able to do in my garage and I have a whole list of shit I will take up with them when they finish the install. The tank has 3 bungs on it so there is on that I can use for the switch besides the other one being used to monitor pressure to the cpu. On a side-note Ride-tech said that they have not had a single failure with the E3 system that I am putting in but there will be a safety switch don't worry.

Yer a would up a little tight today arn't ya?

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dude relax that post was from a week ago and the switch and the water trap are on my list and I have already looked into the switch its not a big deal. I am concentrating on what I am able to do in my garage and I have a whole list of shit I will take up with them when they finish the install. The tank has 3 bungs on it so there is on that I can use for the switch besides the other one being used to monitor pressure to the cpu. On a side-note Ride-tech said that they have not had a single failure with the E3 system that I am putting in but there will be a safety switch don't worry.

Yer a would up a little tight today arn't ya?

not at all its just when i was trying to tell you this you were just replying with somewhat sarcastic comments as if i have no idea what im talking about and in fact i do...:) just lookin out for ya dude!
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99.5% of what I say is sarcastic, 150% of what I type is sarcastic.... NOW MY DANCING I TAKE SERIOUSLY AND CAN GET JIGGY WIT IT LIKE NO WHITEBOY CAN.......
sarcastic is cool, lol! i can dish it too! all jokes aside, to give you an example of how serious it is. i followed my friend up to indy bash back in 2005 and he was hauling his bagged trail blazer. when he installed his air ride he never told me he was just running his compressor to a toggle switch and no p.s.! he flipped his switch to fill his tank and laoded his truck onto the trailer but never flipped it off! HOLY SHIT did his tank explode! the welds gave and the side of the tank blew out and it dented out the rear quarter and busted up his interior! now you mounting your tank right behind your seat is dicey already scott so keeping the pressure regulated is def important dude! the water trap is just to save your whole kit. condensation is just a disaster with air ride and eventually will def ruin your valves by keeping them open or shut with rusty water. plus your lines are small and thick rusty water wont travel as easy and clog your lines in no time. that being said i'll leave you alone, lol!
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even with out the switch I would still have the E3 monitoring the pressure of the tank, of each airbag as well as the ride height. At least if mine blows I have a shot at a lawsuit since it would be the systems first failure. I am not going to push that much as if anyone is the guy that gets made an example of I am that dude.....

So how do you keep each of the 4 airbags from exploding in a worst case scenario?

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even with out the switch I would still have the E3 monitoring the pressure of the tank, of each airbag as well as the ride height. At least if mine blows I have a shot at a lawsuit since it would be the systems first failure. I am not going to push that much as if anyone is the guy that gets made an example of I am that dude.....

So how do you keep each of the 4 airbags from exploding in a worst case scenario?

cant tell if your serious, lol! if an airbag explodes which they have before, lol! alot!! you will just lay right out and here a loud pop! you wont have shrapnel ripping through you ass, lol! but the p.s. will only allow so much air into your tank which in turn will only allow so much air into your bag. just keep an eye on your sleeve on the shock wave cause they tend to rub against the metal on the bottom and can wear a hole which can blowout. Edited by tony
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I would be happy to get it finished by the end of the week but dunno. I don't rush things and only workin on it when I don't feel bad is hard to judge how much time I will get in it.

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that is what I was thinking and gonna see how it works to start before I make any final decision. I am running a HO alt and dual batteries so power isn't really a problem for them but noise would be and I can only imagine the resonance freq that would probably be generated with two of them would start to rattle the front bumper off. I will use it out the driveway and at my bank but other then that I am not all that concerned about it.

Thanks for the info everyone again I do NOT want to screw this up...

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