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Zach

zach's 1995 gt build

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Also for those of you that run a stock oil pan and want to lose your low oil level sensor, by the way are sure expensive now. The bolt hole is a 20mmx1.5 pitch plug , witch is the same as a 2007-8is Subaru impresa sti oil drain plug so there real easy to aquire.

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I wouldn't get to crazy with numbers like that brain. Don't forget it's going to be fuel injected with a much different intake/induction set up. After in and on dyno an sae corrected number should be in the 325-345 range is my guesstimate

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram @rolocut

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Congrats @Zach for getting more pieces of the puzzle!!

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram @rolocut

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O yeah @Rolocut I understand about that , we were actually trying to speculate how much the long runner efi intake will drop the peak hp numbers and broaden the torque curve.

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O and a little update got most of my new suspension in this weekend but had one setback. Apparently the newer lakewood struts you cannot drill the spot welds out of the dust shield on too of the strut and knock it off like the older lakewoods.so now you have to grind a 1/8 inch all the way around the dust shield and the coilover sleeve will slide right over. I found this out the hard way when I went to know the shield off offer drilling the spot welds and havining my new 140$ strut spew fluid everywhere. So after calling lakewood I have confirmed that is the new way to do it on their struts. But I have a new one on the way 144$ later and should be here tommorrow so I can get the front end raped up.

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Well .........

yha2y3yz.jpg something exciting lol got it in with minimal trouble just one issue. a7emunu5.jpg drivers side collected flange is against the floor pan compared to the passenger side. agavyvuz.jpg. I'm not using convertable mounts and I put a new trans bushing in so what's my best plan of attack on this.

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Oe replacements but not vert specific, and it's lines up the drivers side has a dowl pin other than the bold and it is fully seated in its hole. I was thinking of making some shims or something to put on the passenger side, to see if it would maby push the drivers side down.

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Is the trans in as well? I had issues with mine too before the motor and trans were completely in.

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Ya I dropped them in together, it seemed that it didn't hit until I jacked the trans up to put the bolts through the trans crossmember.

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Do you have any convertible mounts to try? They are supposed to lower the engine, correct?

Yes.

Other thing you could do is shim the k member.

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I threw away my old vert mounts, they were shot. But we're the oil pan fits between the the k-member there is a little bar for strengthening purposes I guess that the oil pan is less than a 1/4 inch away from so the motor couldn't go any lower in the k-member without it there. That being said it was there with my old mounts and headers and the oil pan didn't hot and the headers cleared fine. Also I will try shimming the k- member what should I use washer or what?

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I thumbed through the thread real quick and see mention of a UPR K member and a-arms on the way but it looks like the stock K went back in? Stock trans crossmember? One thing I thought about is something is amiss with the trans mount/crossmember and tilting the rear of the engine up too far. If the trans mount is all stock though that is unlikely and I'd look at the motor mounts. Also I don't know about these days but I remember years ago when I bought headers for my car that MAC headers had a reputation for not fitting very well; perhaps they are the issue here, but it looks like you had them before.

If possible with different engine mounts I would lower the engine and if the oil pan hits that bolt-in brace, I would space it down or modify it before spacing the whole K member down. If the headers still hit I would change them or modify them before spacing the K member. I thought about the K member spacers but IMO they should be a last resort due to changes in suspension geometry and IMO they should not be necessary with a 302 block/t5 combo with that intake.

What changed from before you tore the car down? Answer that and that might be the answer to this problem. Maybe I'm overlooking something, but from what I can tell, before the tear down, it was a 302/t5 with stock K member/mounts, stock trans crossmember/mount, with Mac headers. And after it is the same except the motor and trans mounts have been replaced, correct?

I suppose you could just make this real easy and "modify" the floor with a BFH, but would be a shame to do that to those nicely painted floors, and isn't the right way to handle this IMO.

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ya i had issues with the upr k-member so i just sent it back and didn't fool with it. The only thing that has changed is the transmission bushing, supposed to be a stock replacement. And the motor mounts that are supposed to be oe replacements. the heads have changed to trick flow twisted wedge 170s but they are supposed to have the same exhaust port height as stock. That being said there is hobbs of clearance on the passenger side but it almost looks as if the drivers side collector was welded on with a slightly upward angle. I called mac and they said they don't have those problems out of the 5.0 cars and to send picture, so i am awaiting a response on that. and yes i really don't want to beat up my floor pan, but if i could just bent the collector down 1/4-1/2 inch i could put some heat insulator between and it should be good, Then i don't want to risk cracking the ceramic coating on the headers by bending them. So pretty much stuck between a rock and a hard place on this one, was hoping to have the car running in the next 2 weeks but o well lol. @SublimeRT

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Between a rock and a hard place for sure. I guess wait and see what Mac says then go from there. Would be cool if they sent you a new header that fits better. Fingers crossed!

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Ya that's what I'm hoping or they have some kind of Palm, face answer to the prob. Just was really hoping to start the car by the middle- end of next week

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Yea mac was pretty much worthless to deal with, so it was the high tech method of a long bar, torch, welding blanket, and Bfh. Pretty much just stuck the bar in the collector, pulled it were it needed to go heated it up and piped it with the hammer a few times and it's stayed were it needed to. Probably have a 1inch plus if clearance now, still gonna put some heat shielding on the floorboards.

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That sucks that they weren't much help and that you had to resort to doing that, but at least it's taken care of now. I had to do the same thing with a BBK x-pipe that was not wide enough to mate up with the header collectors. How did the coating on the header fare?

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Well sadly didn't get to start the car today, when I pressurized the fuel system my pressure side convention fitting for my -6 braided line started leaking profusely. You could press down on it and it will stop but whe released it will leak. Called summit and they were very helpful and are sending me a new one. Fingers are crossed hoping the fitting was just defective.

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Well sadly didn't get to start the car today, when I pressurized the fuel system my pressure side convention fitting for my -6 braided line started leaking profusely. You could press down on it and it will stop but whe released it will leak. Called summit and they were very helpful and are sending me a new one. Fingers are crossed hoping the fitting was just defective.

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sounds like a little better service than MAC eh ;)

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Well it's alive guys will try to get the video up in a little bit. Need some help trouble shooting, first off with the spout in the timing reads 7 degrees retarded and when I use the advance on the distributor it retards more. Then it won't hardly even run with the spout out like 400-500 rpm. Next when I rev the car up and let off the gas it backfires kinda bad. And lastly the exhaust seems to be a little hotter that it should all advice welcome guys.

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