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The momstangs rebuild

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Sorry to hear Scott.  :(  It'll eventually pass though and you can get back out there with the car.  :2thumb:

 

Been dealing with this for 12 yrs now and so far it only gets worse each year.  I was hoping to order a really killer set of wheels right about now and get them powdered to be ready for if I do get it on the road this summer, but instead I am paying medical bills.  The start of the new year for me just means I have to get past the deductible before they start paying the little bit the insurance does. 

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There are a couple of styles I still like but was wanting to do something a little different and try this

Niche_Concourse_Black_DeepLip_1000.png

unless I decide to go with a more traditional 5-spoke style with a bit of a twist.

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Apex_Tint_A1-1000.jpg

 

The center would be powdered the same burned copper color, the hoop or ring I want gloss black.  20" rear 19" front

 

I still like the first style the best so far.

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Well shoot, man. I wish I had some advice or something helpful to offer but that's way outta my league. Trying to stay optimistic and keeping your chin up can go a long way though sometimes.

I like all the wheels really, but my personal favorite are the last ones.

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Yup I decided to go big tony.  What are the offsets on yours?  :)

 

There is a slim chance with taxes and selling some stuff that I can still get them.  I just discovered the rowing machine I got to help training back when I was still racing is worth a lot more then I paid for it.  I found it used I think for around $300 and now was amazed to see the same model sell on ebay for $800 with $95 shipping.  Looks like that should go pretty quick too if I could sell the shotgun I would be on my way.  I think I did all my stock sales this year so that I don't have to pay on them but can't remember exactly. 

 

I think they added some new styles since the last time I looked. I also like these a lot.

 

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I still like the first ones the concourse a320 the most I think. 

 

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Just something different for a change.  I love 5-stars don't get me wrong but they are as dated as the bullits I am replacing for the most part.  I like how those have a little different style then the typical 5-stars but just not sure.

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FINALLY the combination of feeling better and warmer weather came together to do a little work today.  Nothing special as I was just putting it back together to make sure the new fender didn't throw anything off.  The bumper got a little messy as well with the carbon fiber grill insert I made.  Its hard to tell but  it is mounted there but only rough sanded now.  Still need fine sanding and polishing but I am happy with how its coming out.

 

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Nothing terribly exciting but its been since the beginning of dec since I have touched it so its nice to see it look a little like a car again and get some forward momentum going again.

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Glad to see you got some time with the car. In that first shot, I can see a glimpse into the future, and it is good.

Thanks.  I hope that we can all see it this summer. 

 

The weather has been nuts here lately.  IT was 51 today and supposed to peak out at 22 tomorrow and that is the norm here.  I have got a little bit done here/there but most of it wasn't photo worthy.  The part of the fenders that was cut and remains mounted too the car has had just a tad more play in it then I liked.  I welded some bracing it to hold it as well as another brace for the removable part of the fender and now its all rock solid. 

 

I finished leveling off the CF insert and rubbed it out to 600 to prep for clear coating.  Really happy with how it turned out.  I did it at night though and could not get a pic of it and the hood with the door shut, and then took the bumper off to weld the bracing mentioned above.  So you will need to imagine the cf stripe going over the car like me but I think with it starting in the grill going over the hood and cowl and finally the roof it should be pretty cool imo.  At the very least I don't expect to ever pull up at a show or the track and see another mustang that looks the same.

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I also got my lower intake back from tmoss THAT DUDE IS FAST!!!  I sent it out Friday afternoon and got it back Tuesday.  I was afraid we confused the prepaid return shipping label with the one for him and it had just bounced around my local shipping crap for the weekend but it was finished.  He set it up so that it will match my trickflow heads and now I am trying to narrow down what kind of heat coating I want to do on it. 

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Does anyone know if that lower heat shield under the lower is removable at all?  Would I be able to replace those rivits if I drilled them out?  I would like to get under it to be complete.

 

With these last few things being done short of replacing the stock short block I am not sure what I should look at next for motor improvements.  Any opinions are more then welcome but needed.  Still learning...

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That's the baffle for your pcv valve you don't wanna remove that

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I just want to clean up under it and make sure there is no rust and then put it back.

 

I always loved how the GT40 lower intakes looked. thought it was a shame it was the lower. What for upper are you using? im hoping you have a tubular gt40?!

I LOVE the look of the tubular for sure but have never been able to stomach the price and of course never been able to find a deal on one.  I am 90% through with polishing this little sucker to put the cherry on top.  As snow flurries are coming down in 20 degree weather as I type I might spend a little time with it today to see how much closer I can get it.  Only problem is that I have been waiting to buy a bench top polisher to finish this and all the other stuff under the hood that will be polished....

6957591400146684-0c5b93d9cc.jpg

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I just want to clean up under it and make sure there is no rust and then put it back.

I LOVE the look of the tubular for sure but have never been able to stomach the price and of course never been able to find a deal on one. I am 90% through with polishing this little sucker to put the cherry on top. As snow flurries are coming down in 20 degree weather as I type I might spend a little time with it today to see how much closer I can get it. Only problem is that I have been waiting to buy a bench top polisher to finish this and all the other stuff under the hood that will be polished....

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I don't see why you couldn't drill out the rivets and tap the bosses they attach to and bolt the baffle back down. But if you do that I would safety wire all those bolts together to ensure they can never come loose and get into moving parts. Especially with them being bolted into aluminum. And on a second note, God I wanna polish my cobra upper so bad but I don't think I have the patience lol.

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I don't see why you couldn't drill out the rivets and tap the bosses they attach to and bolt the baffle back down. But if you do that I would safety wire all those bolts together to ensure they can never come loose and get into moving parts. Especially with them being bolted into aluminum. And on a second note, God I wanna polish my cobra upper so bad but I don't think I have the patience lol.

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I wasn't sure how much material was back there to tap into and was hoping someone else had done it just to find out.  Like you said its needed and I would hate to find out that there wasn't enough material there to tap and put it back on.

 

Anyone used nitroplate for their coating needs?  Talked to one of their sales guys this morning and it sounds good at a reasonable price.  Unless I hear something bad about them I will be boxing up the intake and headers for them to take care of.

 

polishing it has been a huge pia but I can't wait to see it all done.

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Like you said, the CF starting with the grille insert and going over the car is gonna be a real unique and great look. The intake looks real nice as well, the lower with the port work and especially that polished upper.

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The lower is off getting coated now.  After looking into getting my headers coated they would need to be stripped and polished first and it was just too expensive so I sold them and got a new set of JBA headers that are on their way there now to get coated.

 

Its been a cold jan-feb here but its finally breaking now.  I spent some time in the basement work shop working on the upper and I am now to the point of polishing points on the bottom that are still able to be seen.  Its annoying for sure at this point but the end is in sight.  With that in mind I took to porting the upper to match the lower and the TB.  I thought I read that there was not much to gain from porting your upper that it was all in the lower but after looking at the gaskets I am surprised how much material has to come out.  The throat is only 70mm and I am using a 75 mm tb so that was gasket matched.

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small difference :)

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and on the bottom it was the same story there was lots of room to grow from a simple gasket match.

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I need to get some sanding drums/disks to finish cleaning/smoothing the runners out but you can see the fresh aluminum where I cut into it.

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After some thought and checking out their work I am going to send the upper off for nitroplates bright finish like I am doing on the headers.  The ceramic coatings I have seen prior too this kinda looked polished but nothing close to what I wanted this upper to look like but theirs is a much smoother finish. 

I am almost done with the meth tank to have it sent out for anodizing.  Working it into the upper radiator mounts worked out well.  I need to weld on the overflow tank mount tomorrow and drill/tap some holes for ports for some clear tubing so I can see how much is in the tank.  I already drilled the hole for the level sensor as well as drilled/taped the holes for the port to feed the pump and for an air hole that will go to a pressure thingamobober(I can't think of the name now I have it downstairs) to allow air to come into the tank when it draws from it.

IMG_20150308_151857290_HDR.jpg.

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had some good weather this weekend and got a couple things done but not necessarily photo wearthy but trouble some enough to have to fix.  My front fenders have been a pia from the start since the side exhaust kit was bonded to the lower fender so it can't come off.  With the loss of the lower mounting point and the curve to get around it, it lost a bit of its stability and allowed the fender to move more then it should.  It took some modifying to make a cut through the fender  just above lower door line to hopefully blend them in as well modified the new fender so it was cut and has a flange on the back of the fender  that slides over to hold it in place.  It all seemed like it would work and lock into place solidly but after a few times on/off it still had more movement that I wanted and then after some close inspection I noticed there was a crack on both sides of the car from there door back between the side exhaust and rocker panel.  I think the crack was there fro the wreck and was just too small that I didn't notice but either way it has to be fixed nice and solid. 

 

I welded in a couple of braces to help get everything solid between the lower fender just above the skirts.  These were just simple pieces with no screws but will do an important jop to keep the front edge of the side skirt from moving up/down/forward/back  I then started off by bending some scrap in to an L shape and drilled a hole in it so that it would now be the new support lower fender mount on each side  I wish I had done this earlier and it would have saved me a lot of trouble when last year the fender moved back JUST enough so that the open drivers door bend the fender in..  the fender normally goes down under the car and bolts on below and that part is all still there but they are perminately mounted by the skirts making it all part of the car.  I also added a brace to the very bottom of the car ust to keep that area from moving.  I had to grind out the area that was around the crack where the skirts met  the car.  After doing that I filled the spot with bonding putty to hopefully get those piece to once again ask s a goof bv  A little saninding/filling and hopefully that spot is done 

 

 

I have been spending an hour or 2 as often as I could now for over 3 years polishing the damn upper cobra intake and its almost done!  Needless to say I  have grown to hate it in all honestly at this point as every time I look closely at one point I see something else that needs to be done.  I probably spent 10 hrs on it this weekend mainly porting/polishing the inside to open it up but I have also done some more smoothing on the top and even parts of the bottom that can be seen or will reflect  off  the gloss black valve covers.  I am really happy with how the whole porting went.  Last night I finally had the time to put the TB on the takea l ook at the throats when they are mounted together and there is still very small difference between them.  It should not take much to make sure the openings are perfectly the same  size.  There ia a little bit of play between the holes for the tb and the studs in the intake that can allow for it to still be completely out of place and restrict the flow.  I think I am going to sneek 2-3 small aluminum pins(I take them from rivits) in the intakes mounting flange to go just a 1/8" into the TB flange to keep them solid in place and not even show up to.  I think it will not be too hard to ensure the upper/lower/spacer will be perfect

 

Anyone ever pinned their pieces together to ensure they line up perfectly?

 

I was sooo looking forward to do those things today as it was in the 70s for the first time this year but, thought it would be better to puke all morning.  Wonder if the DR would have an issue if I had the intake in the room with me to work on it. 

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I had my JBA headers nitroplated.

IMG_20150326_123329389.jpg

 

and as I said above I finished the intake.  I had to dig out the before pic from 3 yrs ago to really appreciate it.

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after

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I also polished an edelbroch throttle body to match it, here they were both sanded up to 2000 grit.  I sent both of these to nitroplate yesterday for their bright finish like was applied to the headers.  It will help to keep the intake cooler, keeping the air into it cooler, as well as add a much more durable finish the the raw polished aluminum has. I needed to pull these bearings out of the throttle body because they cure their finish at 750 degrees.

IMG_20150330_192057711.jpg

I was afraid I was going to have to get creative/destructive to get it out as there was no way to push it out and not much to grab.  After some searching I was shown the light of a blind hole bearing pull kit that naturally harbor freight sells.  Like most tools from harbor freight I had to file a few areas on the bit used to pull it but after making the necessary adjustments I was amazed that it pulled it out with one slide of the slide hammer.   There was no damage to the bearing nor the body, made it a 5 min job with 4 mins of me filing on the tool. 

 

Nitroplate should receive it Friday and it normally take a couple of weeks to get it back.  After nearly 3 yrs on that intake I can't wait to see it finished...

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I hope everyone had as good of  a weekend as I did.  It started off with my dog playing a mean trick on me by no telling me it was raining during our walk till I was outside.  It was only a drizzle though so I enjoyed my music and was rewarded with a nice double full rainbow and the hint of a double rainbow.  Saterday was a beautiful day and I went to a close friends daughters 16th birthday party and got to see a bunch of old friends.  Finished the day off with one of the best prime rib dinners I have ever had.  Today the weather continued and I got back in the car.  I got the newly ceramic coated lower installed followed by the 42 lb injectors/fuel rail.  I also got the newly coated valve covers with stainless studs installed and finally got the maziere high flow polished electric water pump installed. 

IMG_20150405_155019166_HDR.jpg

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I am down to the last couple spots on the body before its ready for primer and while I am waiting for stuff to dry I have been working on the motor more.  Today I installed the JBA nitroplated headers with stage8 locking fasteners and the correct gaskets.  I was surprised that the only place I could find an EGR cap was at my hardware store but I have some more stuff to get powdered so I will just get it done with a chrome powder so it will match better.

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amazing how a set of headers and plug wires and it looks more like a motor.

 

 

 

 

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Although now that I see the wires I am going to cover them with a fiberglass techflex so that they will match all the others and I am also going to trim the wire loom so you will see less loom and more wires.

 

I also just found out that nitrplate is only going to do large scale OEM manf coatings now so I guess I sent the upper in at just the right time as they called wed to say it was starting production :).  And in another bit of good timing now with the carbon fiber cowl on the way hopefully I am not far from primer at all.

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Sounds good Scott! All the plating and coating of everything so far looks really great. They do good work. I bought a really nice machined billet EGR block off for the headers.... I think I got it from Wazee before he quit making stuff. I'll look and see if I still have it and if I do you can have it if you're interested. It should still be on my old headers.

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Sounds good Scott! All the plating and coating of everything so far looks really great. They do good work. I bought a really nice machined billet EGR block off for the headers.... I think I got it from Wazee before he quit making stuff. I'll look and see if I still have it and if I do you can have it if you're interested. It should still be on my old headers.

if you have it and come across it sure let me know or else like I said I am having some stuff powdered and willing to be a chrome powder would not draw much attention next to the headers.  It would surely do it less then the brass does :)

 

I hate spark plug wires. HOWEVER I love seeing a well done and properly routed set. well done :)

all the years I worked as a tech/installer I grew to LOATH messy wiring that was not mounted well.  And now I am paying for it as I just ordered a new set of plug wires so I can wrap them with the fiberglass woven covering to match the rest of my wires and considering taking some pieces off of my loom and making my own so it would not look so, idunno generic or universal like it is?  I think I cold make one where you would not see the loom at all short of the mounting blocks and I like the idea of the wires being shown but not the loom.  If it doesn't happen soon it will happen later as the more I look at the loom the more it bugs me which I know is funny since its not hideous but idunno...

 

I got an email today that the custom badge I had made to mimic the stock phoenix gold ba dge that was on the alt was done.  The alternator is 25+yr old school high output bastard that phoenix gold has not made for years.  Funny I spend 30 mins grinding down all the edelbrock stuff from the throttle body and now had this badge made in England and having it shipped to me.  God I am dumb.....  :)  ignorance is bliss I guess as when I saw a pic of the finished badge it made me grin a little.  Of course if I am going to make something custom its going to be a little custom so I changed a few things to make it a little more fun/custom.

 

AND by the tracking on the cowl it could get here tomorrow possibly instead of wed :)

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Well I found it and it wasn't as nice as I remember unfortunately. It had some rust on it so I wire wheeled it and sanded it and it is still a little pitted as you can see. If you want it though I'll stick it in the mail.

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I discovered though he is still making them. Glad to see he's still in business.

http://wazees.com/egr.html

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yes it is nice to see them especially on your car.  I have a few more pieces I have to add that will also be CF with out going overboard. 

 

So after spending the time to install the loom and wires I decided I hated most of it.  I mean look at it, who could like this shit?

IMG_20150412_142231111.jpg

So my usual dance of one step forward two back and I ordered a taylor 8mm kit that doesn't have the dist ends on it yet and a special fiberglass tech flex.   The main reason for doing this is stupid and just to match the rest of the cables but they will add some protection since its safe up to 1200 degrees.    It was a complete pia as this stuff didn;t flex hardly at all and the size above it I think would have been a little loose on it, and this stuff required you to push it together to make is as wide as you can.  Inch by inch it went on but when it was done I could not have been any happier.  I wish I had a pic of the dist as I also got those slide on cylinder numbers to mark them as it was not long ago I was tracing wires to be sure things were good and wished I had these.

 

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So now my only complaint is that ugly loom.  Its a universal kit and it is not bad at all but I just want to see less of it and keep the concentration on the cables.  Last night I marked the shape I want on a piece of aluminum so I could cut it out today and bend it into place to use as the new loom.  The idea is that you will not see anything except the rubber pieces that hold them and I was looking forward to knocking this out today but instead woke up feeling like hell.  after 6 hrs of puking I went to the ER and here I am now.  Gosh I hope this is a fast visit as the upper intake should be coming back from nitroplate this week.  I can't wait to see it, finish/paint it and install it.  There should be one other custom piece making its way back to add a little bit of attitude and funder the hood.

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I got the notice that my intake was done and had shipped last thurs.  Previously fedex would make it over night since they are not far away so Friday and sat my neighbors had to wonder what was wrong with me as every time I heard a car/truck or a car door slam I popped up in my window to see if the truck was her.  Of course now for some reason it didn't come till Monday. 

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There are a couple of small spots that are not perfectl perfect but its good enough to call it done.  Unfortunately one of the spots I am not happy with is the textured area around the center a there is some kind of black pattern on it.  I was going to leave it raw and paint the raised areas but I will probably end up painting the lower areas now to cover this up. 

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I have no idea.  When I sent it in the guy that received it mentioned that they needed to do something special I the way they stepped up the temperature in the initial step.  He mentioned that because its such a big hunk of aluminum that they needed to be sure the whole piece was at the correct temp before going up but otherwise I have not talked to them since.  Shortly after that discussion I got an email saying that they were changing their business strategy and only doing large scale oem manf now.

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wish the paint would hurry up and dry so I can install it. 

 

IMG_20150427_155255675_HDR.jpg

I had the bearings pressed back into the TB and put it back together.  I was a little surprised that the butterfly doesn't drag on the inside nor the area around the bearings needing any prep prior to going back in.  I guess its not all that thick of a coating, but I did need to chase some threads with a tap.

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