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The momstangs rebuild

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The intake looks great! Is that finish pretty durable then? Is it similar to something like Jet Hot?

it is a ceramic finish like jet hot but from what I have read nitroplates finish holds up much better. 

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That intake is fantastic looking.  Definitely have one of my favorite builds on the site!

thank you very much.

 

Today unfortunately I was dancing, one step forward and two back.  I went to install the upper and wanted to install the two short studs I made to help guide the upper in.  Of course it slipped from my hands, down the lower intake and is now resting in the #4 cylinder.  Tried to fish it out with a magnet and could not get it, I am going to try a different magnet tomorrow otherwise I get to take it all the way down to get the passenger head off.   I set it in place just to see how it looked to at lease celebrate a small victory as I have been cussing ever since.

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had to take the lower off to find the stud but thankfully no lower.  I switched to a flanged nut that was 3/4 the height of the nut/washer combo I had last time and also got lucky that the finish is really close to the ceramic finish on the upper.

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also got one of the wire looms roughed out.   I need to bend it a little more to match the lines on the valve covers but once its powdered black it should not draw any extra attention from the wires. 

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With out the extra bend I need to do you still see too much of the back of it but once that is done it will be a much cleaner/simpler look then the other one.

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This was the before if you forgot, much happier now.

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That bracket looks much better, keeps the focus on the valve covers and the wires instead of itself. Not to mention, I've seen those previous ones on pretty much every hot rod ever built, so they're a little played out lol. Looking good.

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been busy scuffing the paint to prep for primer but got some cool little details worth showing.  The flush center caps have started to show up but it still needs to get buffed before its pushed all the way on.

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And if this isn't the best looking alternator I have ever seen I am not sure which would be better.

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I love the tech flex, looks great. Next time tape the manifold holes.

 

What headers are those? Edit: NVM JBA B-)

I had the manifold taped for over a month just right up to the point I was putting the studs in.  The tape covered all the screw holes as well as the intakes holes, so I just tore it all off.  :)

 

Yes those are JBA. 

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That's awesome

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

I am amazed the detail that they can do on a CNC machine.  I mean I know they can do magic but with as small as this is its just nuts.  He said there are over 800 lines of commands to make it. 

 

I was determined to get it into primer this weekend.  Went out yesterday to get some of the masking supplies and last few details needed for priming.  I wanted to get some good masking tape so that I would not have as much to worry bleeding through on the hood for example.  I think I am going to look at investing into 3m as I was amazed to see the two rolls of tape ring up to $16...  It is nice tape though. I also borrowed a fender roller from a friend so I can do the fronts since I obviously need as much space as possible.  I finished up on the rears as well by smoothing out the rest of what was inside the wheel well.  After I bent it up I had it nearly up against the inner structure so I put a small dab of panel bonding adhesive between the two and then smoothed and sanded it down so its much stronger now with the pieces stuck together as well as makes no place on that inner lip that could grab the tire.

 

I was looking forward to mounting the fenders and getting rolling today and like I said really excited to prime it this weekend but instead I guess my body thought I would have a better time puking for 5 hours and then doing it again for another 3 hours in the ER.  My primary care doctor doesn't like to direct admit me but after calling him 3 hours into the er(with possibly another 2 to go) and begging I was amazed that he actually did a direct admit for me for maybe the 2nd time ever.  It was nice that they finally did realize that the ER was packed and I was going nowhere but it could have saved a lot of time and trouble if he did it 3 hours earlier when we asked the first time.  So needless to say I am pissed to be back here but really pissed that I have to wait another week or two two before I feel well enough and have the energy to get back at it. 

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damn took longer then I thought to get back on my feet after getting sick 2 times in one week.  Finally got the back of the fenders covered with a bed liner for rust protection and got both of them rolled so there will be no worries of it catching the tire.   After a closer look at the drivers side fender the reproduction part fits like we would expect a reproduction part to fit, like crap.  The door gap is about as inconsistent as it could be and the top bent in too far and the concave area under the body line didn't bend enough, and the bottom where I had to cut it wasn't straight either.  So I tried my hands at some real body work tonight with a hammer/dolly and at the end of it the bottom was flat and the concave area was much closer.  Hopefully tomorrow will be another good day and  can address the door gap....

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man I wish I had a before pic of this fender but this is how its ending.  If anyone else is considering ordering reproduction fenders don't, stick to stock.  I heard the same thing about the core support when I replaced it, probably the same thing there.

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I had to laugh that I don't blink anymore about drilling a hole in the car.  Go use to cutting/welding on it now too but scuffing carbon fiber just doesn't seem right.  I realized after I masked it earlier that I needed to scuff all of it so I could clear the whole thing after painting the edges so I took off the old masking and scuffed the center too.

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thankfully masking it off helped to cover the pain.

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Roof is scuffed, side glass is out and masked off.  I need to scuff the jams and do some other little stuff but I think I am on track to do primer next weekend.  I am hoping to take some time to visit ridetech this week and pick up some gear but I think I can get it ready for it if my stomach keeps going ok. 

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changing the garage into a paint booth has taken much longer then I thought it would.  I realized with the temps finally rising now that missed my window to do it during the day and if I wanted to have the temps in the range needed for my activator meant I would need to paint at night.  The biggest problem there is that the lighting as always sucked there so I had to improve that.  After some looking around I found I could get 4ft fluorescent lights for only $30each for the fixtures and 2 bulbs so I picked them up and installed them. The one light as really easy with nothing under it but the other is directly over the car so I ended up just hanging them for temp use.  It wasn't hard to upgrade the light output as the before pics show.(having issues with phototbucket so I will put it in later)

The new lights are sooo much brighter and also a much nicer color of white instead of that yellow crap the twisted fluorescent lights put out.  I also got 3 box fans for ventilation.  I am going to open the garage door just enough to put the fans under it so they are blowing out(one on each end and one in the middle) and then tape some tarps up between them.  The clean air draw will be the door from the house to the garage.  I am going to figure out a way to rig up some filters to fit in the door and then hopefully with the floor of the garage wet any dust that is out there will stick to the water on the ground.  This should insure the both stays cool and clean air as well as keep the smells out of the house.  I saved the slack that my tool box came on just for this reason.  the bumper fits perfectly on it and with out it holding it up on another table/tool box would be hard.  I made some lifts to go under the bumper that will lift it 5" from the slack to allow for air and the last step will be to wrap the whole thing in plastic drop cloths to keep the wood/spider webs from making an appearance. 

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its hard to tell in the pic but I hung a 10 ft extendable ladder from the ceiling so I can hang parts from it.  WE had some hooks already in some studs so it made the job easy and then added 10 ft of area to hang things from.  Funny enough as I started to hang it and realized that it has never been cleaned unless it was left out in the rain(like most ladders right)  I just realized that I probably wanted to get the dirt off of it before I start spraying at it.  Its hard to tell in the pic as it was getting dark and if you look behind the orange construction lights thee the ladder and the hood hanging from it.  Fenders are on some saw horses I got from harbor freight today an its almost ready now.  Still need to remove the trunk and do a complete blow-down of the garage from the walls/ceilings with a leaf blower, while all three fans are blowing out and the floor is wet.  I was getting excited as its really getting really really close.   So what does that mean?  I wake up this morning throwing up again of course....  Tried like hell to fight it but I am again sitting next to the IV pump.  So sick of anything I look forward to getting messed up like this. 

In good news though I was given an unexpected gift today in the form of a check.  Glad to say its not a scam and I have been pondering replacing the sway bars and the front control arms when I go to install the shockwaves.  Maybe some retail therapy while laid up will help?

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sucks that you got that far and then back in the hospital scott.  feel better man

yea but that is just how this shit goes.   I swear it knows when I am looking forward to something  and really loves to come up right then.  The last time it flaired I was also supposed to go out on my buddies boat on sunday if  I was up to it but as I told him not sure how that will work since I get sea sick on land.  Thankfully it will give me some time to ponder the next upgrade.  I was surprised to come into some money now just need to figure out what to do with it.  Dreaming of front control arms and some sway bars.  Maybe retail therapy will help...

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Sorry to hear that your not feeling well again especially when your soooo close to paint.

 

 I also got 3 box fans for ventilation.  I am going to open the garage door just enough to put the fans under it so they are blowing out(one on each end and one in the middle) and then tape some tarps up between them.  The clean air draw will be the door from the house to the garage. 

 

I am going to figure out a way to rig up some filters to fit in the door and then hopefully with the floor of the garage wet any dust that is out there will stick to the water on the ground.  This should insure the both stays cool and clean air as well as keep the smells out of the house.  I saved the slack that my tool box came on just for this reason.  the bumper fits perfectly on it and with out it holding it up on another table/tool box would be hard.  I made some lifts to go under the bumper that wi

 

For the filters just go buy some 20"x20" furnace filters and then duct tape them to the back side of the fans.

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Sorry to hear that your not feeling well again especially when your soooo close to paint.

 

 

For the filters just go buy some 20"x20" furnace filters and then duct tape them to the back side of the fans.

the fans will be blowing air out of the garage rather then blowing it in.  Everything I read said it was best to suck out rather then blow in as it helps reduce crap getting blown in. I am going to duct tape the fans and tarps to the door/floor to try and keep it all sealed and then will figure out what size/type of filters that I can find to fit the door opening.

Scott are you still on the meds that had helped before or are you back off of those again?!?

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yes still on the new/old stuff.  I had been doing much better with it overall as I was only waking up with about half the pain I had before.  But no matter what I have tried there are just days when I wake up and know its gonna suck.

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the fans will be blowing air out of the garage rather then blowing it in.  Everything I read said it was best to suck out rather then blow in as it helps reduce crap getting blown in. I am going to duct tape the fans and tarps to the door/floor to try and keep it all sealed and then will figure out what size/type of filters that I can find to fit the door opening.

Yeah I know the fans were sulking air out, but still probably will be a good idea to filter that air as well instead of sending all the paint particles outside in the fresh air.

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so my time layed up this time was spent thinking of what I would want for the rest of the suspension to go with the shockwaves.  They are a dual adjustable set up and I would like to try and have a suspension that I can love on the road or the track so I am trying to keep everything as adjustable as I can.  So from steeda I got a front sway bar, rear adjustable sway bar(not shown), heavy duty sway bar ends, bump steer kit and billet sway bar mounts.  Part 3 is on back order unfortunately.

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love the sway bar mounts again something about CNC that is almost porn to me.

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And I was finally able to get back into the garage.  Got the trunk lid and rear bumper off to get them ready.  So close now....

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I had 4-5 things on my list left to do and I didn't think any of them would take more then 30 mins total.  "Prep a/c pillars" - They are already sanded so I figured it would be little more then figuring out where wanted to paint them at.  Upon closer inspection there are 10 rubber seals on the 4 pillars so then comes the question of mask/pray(the paint doesn't bleed onto the seal) or remove/pray(that the seals are not destroyed).  Well I opted for the remove/pray option and with a sharp box knife and being careful I was able to cut the adhesive between the seal and the pilar so that they can all be reused.  Also happy I didn't draw any blood on this....   It just took 3 hours to get them off and then the remaining adhesive left on the parts..........  "Remove tips/mufflers?" I really only wanted the tips off to paint the hole in the skirt but  this was a question because I thought they welded my tips to the muffler and I was right.  So then I figured it should only be a bolt to take the whole muffler off since the X-pipe is off but I was amazed to see that the hanger they added when they welded my subframe connectors was riveted to the muffler, welded to the car.  I mean it must have been a horrible thing for that jackass to imagine getting a wrench and a ratchet, a nut and a bolt and all the twisting involved since the car was on a lift comfortably above him.  I mean who the hell takes a muffler off right?!  So now with the car on the jackstands highest setting and me wedged between the skirts/ground/jackstands and all the other crap in the way trying to drill/cut/pry/bang out the rivits.  So another 15-20 min job took me 3 hrs and a bunch of tools that should not be required to remove a muffler.  Its a small town though and I have bumped into that guy at a couple of shows, I will buy my time till the day he reminds me "I did your subframes/exhaust" like he has in the past to ask him "why rivets a-hole?!?!?!?!"  I look forward to this day...........

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the parts on the wall are actually suspended off of the plastic with thumb tacks under them.

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almost forgot my fender badges and door handles were meant to be shot....

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I blew all the dust out of the garage today with my neighbors leaf blower and 3 box fans blowing out.  Then I wet the floor down and did it again and squeegeed the floor clean/dry.  I need to set up the box fans and the tarps between them but otherwise I would love to start shooting tomorrow.  Its a tough call but the blue angels are in town and its been a while since I saw them.  The extra day will do me good to brush up on what tip size I need for the gun, primer/activator mix %'s and all that little important crap. 

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I used all my lacquer thinner cleaning my paint guns so I need to go get some of that and after its time to prime.  In the mean time the sants ups man showed up with stage 3 of my suspension with a new M&M K and front control arms.

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spent the afternoon fighting the primer to get it to lay down flat.  It was a little bumpy like it was when I did the engine bay and while I am going to block sand it all down the flatter the better.  After thinning it out and going to a smaller tip it was finally ready.  I shut the door and got to work and the fade to black has begun.

 

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2nd coat is curing and getting ready for the 3rd. 

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Finally opened the door to see what it looked like in the day light.  Its not perfect but not to shabby either. 

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bumper came out nice.

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Happy with the hood

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and I have been so wrapped up in the primer that I have completely ignored this.  Finally opened its box, very nice.....

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Finally opened the door to see what it looked like in the day light. Its not perfect but not to shabby either.

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bumper came out nice.

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Happy with the hood

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and I have been so wrapped up in the primer that I have completely ignored this. Finally opened its box, very nice.....

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mm stuff is so nice it was like night and day when I was comparing the build quality to some of the old upr suspension stuff on my car.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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mm stuff is so nice it was like night and day when I was comparing the build quality to some of the old upr suspension stuff on my car.

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yea when it came time to upgrade it I think UPR and some of the others concentrated too much on saving weight/cost then on making it strong enough.  It stung to pay for the M&M but  don't think the K-member is the place to try and save a few bucks and too many pounds.  

 

I was excited to finally find an anodizer for my meth tank.  I had been in contact with 4-5 different places that said they anodized anything and it was funny that as soon as I said it was a meth tank, they never replied back.  I went as far as to explain its windshield washer fluid but the meth in it is bad for raw aluminum but I just never heard back.  Finally the 5th place replied back and said they do not do tanks.  When I asked why he said that they float in the tanks and when I replied that the tank had more then a few holes in it for filling/draining and I really wanted the inside coated anyway.  He replied back that then it carries the chemicals from one tank to the other and causes problems.  It didn't seem that had to me as the holes were in 2 of the corners and if it was picked up on either end it would drain through them but the 5th guy never replied back after that.  Today I looked up a local place that I know I emailed and got the cold shoulder from and took the tank into them.  I was happy to find the guy that does anodizing and he said he didn't see why they couldn't, never done like it before.  $30?  SOLD!  He said he might even have it done by the weekend but I told him I was in no hurry.

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damn I am tired as it was a busy weekend.  I think I have the first round of block sanding done now.  Corrected all the areas that needed attention and now I just need to do another light coat in a couple of places where I rubbed through.  After that I will wet sand with 600 just as much to get the dust off as much as to get it smoother and after that, paint.

 

Picked up the meth tank today.  IT was a tad anticlimactic as after he did some research he said the clear finish was a little more chemical resistant so it doesn't look completely different but as long as it doesn't corrode I don't care.  I put the ports on the back so I can see how much is in it, the low level float sensor and its ready to go.  I am considering maybe having either the cap or the area around the cap custom airbrushed with something "Meth only" related on it.  I would also like to make a cover to go over all of it late is the only reason I thought about doing just the cap but not sure there is enough room.

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Haha, I like the idea of "Meth Addict"

 

$30 is a great deal on the anodizing. When I was rebuilding those two piece Baer rear rotors I had the center hats re-anodized and it set me back $110 for the pair for black anodizing.

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