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ttocs

The momstangs rebuild

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jesus I just have to say that sometimes, often now in fact my life just plain sucks. Not sure who/what I pissed off in a former life but its getting even with me now. Spent the last two days tucking the ac condenser and the radiator into the core support just to gain some space between the motor/fan. Cut/welded/modified the upper brackets on the condenser and the radiator so that they ended pulled in about 4". Just finished up and had that moment when you finish a project and get to look at/enjoy the outcome, thinking about what I can do now/next before I started to feel sick. Wasn't sure why but I needed to throw up. So I did, over an over and over again and now I am again typing from a hospital room only 4 doors down from the room I had 2.5 weeks ago. 3 episodes now in just over 60 days sucks..... At this rate I will be lucky to ever finish the rebuild and who knows if I will be able to enjoy it afterwards....

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Wrenching on the car is really the only thing that gives me both something too look forward too and keeps my mind occupied now. Its really been a nice surprise a s daytime TV sucks and I needed some kind of activity that I can still do to. It has been really nice with the good weather to spend the time when I don't feel bad. post-61-13881839701812_thumb.jpg I love the canton expansion tank when I got it but now it seems just so bulky now. I will probably paint it black just to help it blend in but surprised how big it looks in there now that I made a little bit of space.

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I have spent some time on the car here/there but its been a shitty fall for me being sick 3 times since sept. Been taking care of the wire tuck which is boring and time consuming, not really worth showing any pics of. Almost ready to weld in the engine bay panels. Not sure I like the fit around the power pipe but I might throw some vac lines on the sheet metal and call it a day. post-61-138818398002_thumb.jpg

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Looking good scott, Wire tucks seem so tedious but the results are breathtaking! Plus you can stand back and say yupp eat my dick, I did that myself!

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putting the keyhole behind a flipdown plate and smoothing the old one is exactly what i want to do.  been on my list of things to do for like a decade now.  so jealous right now.

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Been working on the car but updating progress in a different post so it would be easier to find if someone searched later on.  The shinoda chin is smoothed in now for the most part.  I need to prime/block the rest of the bumper but the transition between the two came out pretty nice imo.

 

http://www.sn95source.com/topic/3912-how-to-smooth-a-shinoda-chin-spoiler-into-a-stock-bumper/#entry94383

 

Feel free to comment or ask questions here or there be happy to help explain things.

 

I also smoothed out the ant, again just some light blocking needed there.

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I also was never happy with the transition between the side exhaust skirts and the rockers so I smoothed those out.

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This is just to show some of the dust I made as well as a teaser of what is next on my project list.  Had an idea in my head for a while now that I have never seen myself but curious if it would come out the way I hope...  The only hint I will give you is that this is changing and everything on the car will be smooth if I have anything too say about it.

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good news, it fits.

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will need to clearance a small section of the scottrod panel but not much,

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So excuse my excitement but if anyone remembered that I have been trying to find a kit that would fit this for a little while now.  IT FITS!!!!

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Well hop to it! I'd like to do mine this summer... Nudge nudge

excuse me when I say with the kindest regards, your a dick.....  :)  Stick that bug in my ear huh.  Took some pics of the rear fender after I was done today.  Cut the hole for the intake for the vortech and then remembered I could set the headlights in place too see what they might look like.  I likey....

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you do nice work is all! Just wanted to see your twist in this idea ;)

thanks, like I needed another project.  I was serious about taking pics to look at now to thing about it.....

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since I decided to smooth out the car on the rebuild the door handles have been eating at me like anal warts(so I am told, by a friend, honest!).  I was going to shave them but the safety factor bugged me and would also could keep me off of the track so that no fun.  A while back I saw these and it was one of those moments were I was pissed as I knew I had to have them, and they were not cheap....

 

Fast forward to last month.  I have been saving up(as well as pot stock profits!) for my nib supercharger when I found the very used/nib kit with the power pipe I wanted.  So with the money saved there I splurged and got these.  Can't wait to fire up the welded to install them.

 

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Will be shaving one door lock for sure, and at the very least making it so the other does not stick out but also will try to move it under the mirror to hide it. 

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was thinkingabout the lock problem when it occurred to me that this is only a problem if the battery dies.  My batteries are in the trunk and while I shaved the keyhole there I moved it behind the license plat if you remember so its still mechanical and fully operational.  So worst case scenario with both holes shaved I just open the trunk and jump the smaller starting battery to the larger stereo battery and problem solved.  Might even try to incorporate a micro switch into the trunks lock to unlock the doors with the trunks key.

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These should turn out sweet scott! You could always hide some charging posts under the car just encase the battery does die for some reason

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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Shit if the battery died with the air out of the air ride good luck getting to any charging lugs :)

 

I realized after typing that post that there was no need I can shave both holes with out worry.   Both of my batteries are in the trunk and its keyhole was moved/shaved but is behind the license plate and still mechanical.  Worst case scenario I can just pop the trunk and jump the smaller starter battery off of the other larger stereo battery to power the locks/start the car. 

 

will get started tomorrow, can't wait.  I am going to try and move it up a few inches where I am holding it in the pic so that it is just below the body line if I can.  I would love to put it just under the window so if the window was down I could just put my hand down on top of the door to push the botton and pull the door out from the window sill but I am pretty sure they are too deep for that.

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Just to clarify for myself... Is the hole you make in the door match the outer most perimeter of the handle frame or does it follow the door handle itself?

Sent from Space

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I will cut the hole to match up with the inside of the frame and weld the joint between them.  The handle itself sticks out about 1/16" from the frame so that it will be flush with the door skin.  The didn't show it in the power block but I will also drill a few holes around the edge of the hole in the door and do a few plug welds as well.

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Ok I follow you now. I was gonna say it would kindof suck trying to go around the outside. If your cut was off by a little and had a gap trying to bridge the thing sheet metal to the think framing of the handle would suck lol.

Sent from Space

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yes that would be harder.  This way you just have to level/grind down the area between them.  Shouldn't be that bad, I hope but never done anything this in depth with body work/welding yet.... 

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took the window out and cut the hole today.  Measure once and cut two er three time :huh:

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Go figure that now that I am ready to cut a patch panel from the parts car it started snowing tonight..  Wonder if I can get it from the old fender.....

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Very cool @ttocs! Are you going to have the LEDs turn on with the unlock button getting pushed on the FOB?

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yup painted body color to match and turns on with the disarm on the remote.  I put the tape on and cut the area out so I can stick that to a matching part of the body on the parts car(actually going to use part of the old fender) and then cut it out to perfectly match and completely patch the hole and key hole.  I am going too try to move it up a few inches so its a little closer to the body line and then cut just the inside hole out.  I will do a couple plug welds along the side and then weld the entire edge around the hole.  After sanding it down the handles depth can be adjusted with spacers so it is perfectly flush with the outer door skin it was welded too.

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only part that would suck about doing it is you would probably need to take out your window.

 

Filled the holes today.  Will need a little filler but not much.  The rectangle painted above it is where the new handle will come out at.

 

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Get to cut another hole in my car tomorrow :)

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had another exciting day today as I got too see that another project I have been planning I now can do.  Custom fender badges.

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So I played with the GT logo a bit and flipped a "T" so that it kinda makes a roman numberal #2 - II.  I mean it is more then just a GT now...  And the momstang well that had too go somewhere on it.

 

I will be painting and mounting this logo onto a piece of plexi that will be backed with a piece of chrome/reflective vinyl.  I will then cut a hole in the fender about 1/16-1/8" bigger then the logo and then mount the plexi to the back of the fender so the logo will be flush with the fender.

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I have been enjoying the show the snow has been putting on this year but the temps have slowed me down.  I finally got tired of waiting so I put on 4 layers and a hat, put a couple of small space heaters outside and figured out why the welder keeps popping the breaker.  It can't support 2 small space heaters no wonder I have issues welding on it.....  Got the hole for the handles trimmed out and prepped to weld.  After some sanding/grinding I will need to fab up the rod that pushed the latch but hopefully it will look as cool as I have imagined.

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Also got the hole for the new fender badges cut.

 

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freakin cool it works!  Got it all welded into place and ground down the extra, now just letting a little bondo dry to float the low spots.  After putting it on I realized the next step was the pushrod that actuates the stock latch.  This part had been scaring me a bit since I had not done anything like this really before but it ended up a lot easier then I thought.  I moved the door handle both up about 4" and back almost 2" and doing this unintentionally lined up the striker plate on the new handle with the stock latch almost perfectly.  I got a steel rod from the hardware store and all the bottom section needed was to be threaded.  I put a nut on there to give myself a little adjustability on it to get it too work perfectly, then just bent the other end and threaded it and two nuts will keep it from rattling.  Letting the bondo dry and will smooth it out prior too showing a video of it all working.  Can't wait for that part....DSC01141.jpg

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