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ttocs

The momstangs rebuild

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Do you have a spare piece of the PVC you aren't using?  Can't hurt to set-up a little experiment.  Put some gas in a container on a nice day and leave a piece soak in it for the day or two.  If it shows signs of breakdown I would scrap it and fab it up using the spare filler neck material.  

 

If you end up using the spare steel neck I have some methods for you to secure the pieces and seal it up real nice since you don't have a tig available.  Just hate to see you go through all this trouble to do a nice fuel door shave system and then it fail on you.

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man if it isn't one thing, its another...  I finished up the metal work on the pass side fender flare.  I would like to do the metal work on the drivers side before I start finishing work on either so I can make sure they match by compairing measurements BUT my air saw broke right as I finished the pass side.  Looked all over town from hardware stores to automotive tool stores and closest thing I found was a really cheap lookin shingle cutter.  Sure I could have gone to harbor friend but I figure I would need to cut for 30 mins which would mean I would need to take 6-7 saws home with me to complete the job or keep returning them....  So after a quest I ordered a used snap on/blue point since I have been slowly switching all my tools to snap on, I also ordered 25 blades since they are hard to find here too.  Got the saw wed and was all excited, but still no blades...  So instead of working on the flare I made a list of other crap I needed to do and started crossing them off.  Started off by breaking out the panel bonding adhesive to mount the brake cooling vents perminatly to prepair for smoothing them into the body(the vent will still be there, the lines between he two pieces will not).  I also used the PBA to fix that scrape in the bumper - will sand it out tomorrow and see how strong it is.  Waiting for that too dry so I can start filling/sanding on the brake vents though can't wait too see what that will look like.  Also painted the area above my gas tank with por15 and then followed that up with lizard skin to keep the sounds out and no rust.  STill need to finish the lights but they will almost be the last thing I do just wanted to take a pic of it to see how its coming together. 

 

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Love the look of the shinoda smoothed in and the license plate delete is such a simple thing that just changes the whole look.

 

 

 

 

I also got to mounting my bigger 200 amp phoenix gold alternator.  This thing is a beast and the voltage regulator is even off board.  They were made by Wrangler for PG and not all that many were made.  I posted some pics of it on an old school car audio facebook page and got some nice offers for it but nope sorry the old school alt will be powering new school phoenix gold amps.

 

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Only down side on it is that I will have to make a custom bracket on top to hold it, no big deal already made a pattern for that.

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Sucker looks right at home next to the supercharger.

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Now it does pop up just a TAD above the fender......  Thankfully a y2k cobra R(hopefully carbon fiber) hood will fix that.  So only needed to fab up a bracket, run the wiring for the voltage regulator and a different hood but TOTALLY WORTH IT IMO.  By the way it is a fairly conservatively rated at 200 amps so plenty of powa!

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Also trying to get everything under the hood mocked up so that I can take it apart to smooth it out and paint it all.   Could not be any happier with how the fuse boxes came out as far as location.  Hopefully the plexi window will work how I have it mind to give a nice smooth transition from the metal to he plexi.  The plexi will be tinted dark enough that it will be hard to see what is under it, until its lit up.  I have leds arranged so that they will shine on the back of the plexi so that when I put a frosted logo/design on it, that design will light up super bright.  After that I installed a small disco ball behind the 2nd fuse box I added for another little show.

What do you do to insert vids here?

 

http://s260.photobucket.com/user/ttocsinin/media/discoball.mp4.html

 

 

And finally spent a bunch of time cleaning up and lining up all the wiring.  Funny how you can finish for a day and almost not see any progress....  So far I started off at the drivers door and been working my way forward.  I still need to run the starter power/ground to the block as well as the 0awg power/ground to the alt but I am sure you can see that I stopped right at the fuse box for today. 

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I was looking forward to going and doing more today until I woke up puking again..........  I mean damn if it ain't one thing like a tool breaking its this same old crap.  Thankfully the dr today for the first time ever directly admitted me to the hospital.  Been begging for this for years but the closest I got is he would tell me to come to his office, see that I was puking uncontrollably in an in horrendous pain before he would call the hospital for me.  Its ironic because when I get sick, driving makes it much much worse and of course I drive past the hospital probably the same distance as I do to bet to my house to get to his office , and then go right back the same way.  It ends up being almost as bad as the ER as it ends up taking hours from the time I call the dr, till I finally get in and get medicines.....  Thankfully I got in a little early this time and feeling better now already.  We are hoping I can get out sooner so maybe I can be back on the car in a few days.  With the warm weather now I am more motivated then ever to work on it and get crap done, just need to feel well enough to do it.

 

Happily though the list of shtuff too do is getting smaller, although I know there is more on there I have left off.  I can kinda see the light at the end of the tunnel now on the body work.  Do the drivers side flare, finish both of them and then just some minor body work.  The engine bay though I know will have more hurdles.  I am not all that good under the hood so I will be asking lots of questions and probably make a mistake or two that will slow me down there...  but its coming.

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Great progress! I really like the fuse box setup. I know exactly what you mean about wiring taking forever, I've burned up entire weekends doing wiring on my car and you couldn't even tell when I was done lol. Soldering, stripping, crimping, extending, heat shrinking, routing, etc. it all eats up a ton of time!

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Great progress! I really like the fuse box setup. I know exactly what you mean about wiring taking forever, I've burned up entire weekends doing wiring on my car and you couldn't even tell when I was done lol. Soldering, stripping, crimping, extending, heat shrinking, routing, etc. it all eats up a ton of time!

Thanks I too can't be any happier with how it looks so far.  It was a royal pain to get everything lined up evenly but I think I pulled it off.  Hopefully the plexi will blend nicely into the panel and lighting will add to it and come off nice and smooth with out going too far

 

Any suggestions on a design/logo to go on the plexi?  As I said I do not want too go too far and considered just doing a simple boarder around the outside of it.  I will paint the very outside rim black(on the back so that the frame holding it will not be seen and I think that with a nice frosted line next to it I would think would make a nice contrast.  I considered maybe a simple ford logo or a mustang logo but not sure if I like the idea or if it will be just a bit much....  Your great at adding detail with out going overboard so your opinion has a lot of value too me.

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Thanks I too can't be any happier with how it looks so far.  It was a royal pain to get everything lined up evenly but I think I pulled it off.  Hopefully the plexi will blend nicely into the panel and lighting will add to it and come off nice and smooth with out going too far

 

Any suggestions on a design/logo to go on the plexi?  As I said I do not want too go too far and considered just doing a simple boarder around the outside of it.  I will paint the very outside rim black(on the back so that the frame holding it will not be seen and I think that with a nice frosted line next to it I would think would make a nice contrast.  I considered maybe a simple ford logo or a mustang logo but not sure if I like the idea or if it will be just a bit much....  Your great at adding detail with out going overboard so your opinion has a lot of value too me.

 

Hmm, maybe the mustang tri-bar logo? It has a nice classy look, or maybe you could go with a fuse icon like this? Might be a cool OEM-ish look.

 

BCHW-Icon-Fuse.png

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I thought about a "CAUTION HIGH VOLTAGE" warning label or something like that.  The tribar would be different/class and I have thought about replacing the pony up front with one...

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well thanks its nice to know I have some fans :)  Sucks as its PERFECT weather the last two days in the 70s and sunny and I am dying to keep working on it but again my chrones steps in and has other plans for me this weekend...

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I just am a huge fan of cleaning up all the lines on these cars.  The factory tolerances and some of the body panels are not that great.  It seems odd to me that more people don't do some of these little things when they repaint them...or anytime for that matter

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dang love how the front bumper turned out, cant wait to see it with paint.

 

and that fuse box looks epic!

 

I am really surprised just how much the small detail of filing the license plate area made and happy over all with how it all turned out.

 

@ttocs did you ever look further into the filler neck as I mentioned above? Or are you just gonna run with it?

Sent from Space

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weird wonder where that response went..  It said something to the effect that I am going to test it out and if its an issue I will replace it with something else and cut up the neck from the parts car.

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One thing I have learned now from owning and working on this car is that the little details can bug the heck out of me. Not sure if I am too anal or what but if I make something and there is the smallest little buger on it that I am not happy about, if I leave it THAT spot is exactly what I see every time I look at it no matter if I have it for 5+yrs, that little detail will bug me. I have learned from this its worth the extra time(sometimes 10 mins, sometimes 3 hrs) to take care of the small details so it will not bug me for the next decade.... Anyone else like that? Too much?! Idunno you let me know here. almost 6 yrs ago now I had my side exhaust installed and I made sure the shop understood I was not the average customer that was going to abuse the crap out of the car and sell it in 2 yrs. Made it perfectly clear I was willing to pay extra to ensure it was done right and because of that might be a little pickier then the average customer. We went over that I wanted some bracing made for the bottom section so it didn't just hang freely and they did an excellent job at that. They also did a very good job matching the paint as I never noticed a difference and never had anyone say anything about it. The one little detail that bugged me was the seem where the side skirt met the body. It just looked unfinished too me and because of that made it look like an add-on to me, that bugs me. So good news now, doing it all myself means I can take care of these little things. Bad news means I get to take care of them all myself.................3498931398372143-2762d5b984.jpg

after

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And finally, not sure anyone else has ever noticed it or knows what its for(other then catching the water that drips out from behind your tail light after you wash it)? That body line on the bumper that faced up, went all the way around - WTF is that for? Anyone else ever noticed it? I actually had not until I shaved everything else on the ass end and suddenly it looked like a wrinkle so it had to go....
 

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I think I am going to get some smooth/smoked tail light covers and I have an idea that could be cool with those, I think...

So, before

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Looks good Ttocs! What did you use to fill the seam in along the rear bumper? Can you take a profile shot of the side skirt like you did the original picture. curious to see how it looks along it with the door closed.

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I definitely understand about details bugging you. Many times I've "finished" something on my car over a weekend, then all week at work I'd keep thinking about a detail of it that I didn't like...then the next weekend I was redoing it lol.

I'm also curious what you're using on the bumpers that won't crack. Would definitely be good to know for future reference!

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will try to get a better pic of the edge in the light tomorrow.

 

I am just using fiberglass reinforced filler on the bumpers but there is a little more in the prep.  For this line I went in with a wire wheel on the die grinder and really got down through the paint into the bumper material.  I wasn't going for a clean look as much as to expose as much as I can.  Then I went in and drilled 3/8" holes through it every 4-5 inches and was carefull to force the filler through those holes.  I will go back and add a layer of figerglass to the back of the bumper prior too paint to help hold it all on from the back, and stiffen it up.  If it gets a hard enough tap, yes surely something will probably happen but that is the fun of having a custom car is being afraid anytime someone is a few feet away right?

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I too know what you mean about sweating the small stuff. I like all the smoothing you've done. I was looking at that line in the rear bumper on my car the other day too thinking it could go and I wouldn't miss it.

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I would imagine its more of a crash/crush point on the bumper.  Maybe if it folds in there with a rear impact it would keep it from going up into the tail lights..   Idunno it isn't much of an accent/body line and other then to catch water I am not sure what its use could be.

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Fit the power pipe this week which meant I had to cut almost the entire stock apron out of the passenger side engine bay.  Thankfully its all behind the panels I welded in so it will not look bad when I finish it.  Because I cut so much out I had to move the CCRM but it gave me a spot to mount the voltage regulator.

 

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I used an old tower computer case to make the bracket when I realized I didn't have any fresh steel.  Worked really well though as two of the edges had an additional 90 degree bend behind them to make it nice and ridged.

 

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made a list of all the stuff I need too do a couple of weeks ago and been going through making shorter lists of what I want to try and do next. Been knocking them out slowly but surely and making slow progress. I got my HID mounts finished as well as the siren ready with the nutserts and then sanded the bumper down in prep for paint.

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after that I was ready to tackle another problem I was not sure what too do with. The lower front fender seem. I originally welded in a flange to the back of the lower portion still on the car that the upper portion rests against to hold it in line. I was really more afraid that it would rattle if it wasn't mounted in some way so I came up with this. I welded in an another flange to the top portion that is removable with a spacer between it and the fender so that the flange welded to the lower portion will slide between the two. This way its held in place where it can't rattle or get out of alignment.

 

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REally happy with how it came out in the end as the seem goes into the door gap and doesn't stand out much at all imo.

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FML - disappointment - it will be another week or two before hopefully I can get back into it again.  I was hoping to have I on the road by end of summer around my birthday but if my health keeps gong this way no way in hell it will be done this year. 

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was finally able to spend a little more time on the car.  The wiring it starting to get where I want it to be I have a few grounds to run and the meth kit wiring but its almost done now.

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How close will the tire get to the bottom right corner of your fuse box when the wheel is turned to the right full lock? I'm sure you probably already checked this, but I figured I'd mention it in case you haven't. It would really suck to have it all finished up driving down the road, then turn right and mangle your engine bay panels :o

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yes I already checked it and fully compressed and turned it clears it and should have enough room for the inner fender to clear the wheel as well.

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yes I already checked it and fully compressed and turned it clears it and should have enough room for the inner fender to clear the wheel as well.

 

Cool, like I said I figured you did but I'd hate to keep my mouth shut and then see some post about how it slipped through the cracks and you ended up damaging a bunch of shit lol.

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had a good day today and got a lot done. It was bracket day I guess as I needed to mount a bunch of little crap. All the brackets were made from an old tower computers sides that was being junked. Some really nice steel honestly and I looooove my rivnut tool now. First I made a bracket for the snow meth controller. I used rubber isolators on everything to prevent rattles/vibrations and of course techflex on the wires.

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a couple of screws make it easy to take out and move out of the way for access to the new fuel lines behind it. Has anyone ever moved that big ass hrns down through the hole into the fender? I am considering trying to move it all down out further and wondered if anyone has done it.

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I made another bracket for the meth pump and just welded this one in place since having it removable was not going to buy me anything. I still need to run the line for the meth but I only yesterday figured out where I am going to put my tank, and now how to make it. 

5597151400981995-9a86c0ba50.jpgI am also sorting out the vac lines currently and needed one more output, and needed to make an EGR block off plate so it was easy to combine the two.

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and finally I started on the bracket to hold the line lock. I have not mounted the line lock itself as I need to bend some lines and get all that lined up first. This is my next step along with the vac lines....5936941400982023-6162b5c0ad.jpg

 


 

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Looking good Scott! I personally really enjoy making brackets and mounting things, and it's even better when you can make them out of found materials :2thumb:

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I wish I knew what type of steel it is as its much stiffer and stronger then anything I get at the store.  Great for making brackets out of, glad I got that small metal brake last year.

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Looking good Scott! I personally really enjoy making brackets and mounting things, and it's even better when you can make them out of found materials :2thumb:

 

my next step in the build is the catch can and I could use your help with it.  Running a vortech of course and I have no idea what is the best way to go about it.  I have a can and it has the option to go with or with out the baffle.

Sounds like you got some good stuff done, but the pics don't seem to be working. Might be a problem on my end though.

 

 

yeah I cant see them either scott.  clicked on links and nothing......... :huh:

 

I can't get on the drive site at all right now.  Hopefully its just a small issue/update and will be up soon.

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my next step in the build is the catch can and I could use your help with it.  Running a vortech of course and I have no idea what is the best way to go about it.  I have a can and it has the option to go with or with out the baffle.

 

Do you have a link to the catch can you have? Are you looking for advice on the plumbing aspect or where to mount it?

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Do you have a link to the catch can you have? Are you looking for advice on the plumbing aspect or where to mount it?

plumbing aspect is what I need help with.  I didn't want to mount it on the scottrod panel I installed but there wasn't much space left so its on the drivers side where the washer fluid res. us to be. 

 

this is what I got except mine has a bolt on top that can be taken out for a baffle to be installed that was included.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REAL-Carbon-Fibre-Oil-Catch-Can-Tank-Universal-15mm-Nozel-NEW-JDM-DRIFT-DRAG-/190987833350?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c77c31006&vxp=mtr

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