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The momstangs rebuild

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If you flip it to the driverside the fill neck will hit the upper intake .. as for the badges I would throw them in the garbage and keep it clean

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either way the baffle will need to be cut off/down.  On the drivers side though there isn't the fuel lines, plug wires, throttle body and bypass valve all in the same space.  There is a few inches of space between the intake and the cover on that side, more then on this side anyway...

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I thought there was a few inches of space there until I looked and yea there is no way to fill it on the pass side with a cobra intake. 

 

my damn wiring ocd kicked in and I had to clean up the wiring to the meth pump as if it was horrible or something.

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no problem with this spot for the oil separator lines is it?  There is no space on the back of the motor...

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And a dumb question I am sure, but I never saw this before today while digging through some boxes of supercharger stuff.  This is my bpv right?

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I thought there was a few inches of space there until I looked and yea there is no way to fill it on the pass side with a cobra intake. 

 

my damn wiring ocd kicked in and I had to clean up the wiring to the meth pump as if it was horrible or something.

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no problem with this spot for the oil separator lines is it?  There is no space on the back of the motor...

7760841403140146-64c3aa05e7.jpg

And a dumb question I am sure, but I never saw this before today while digging through some boxes of supercharger stuff.  This is my bpv right?

7264321403140199-fba9a70cdb.jpg

 

 

That was why I told ya that. Cant help ya with your other questions a the pics no workie

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That was why I told ya that. Cant help ya with your other questions a the pics no workie

the driiive site goes up/down sometimes but its strange they all show up for me.  I had to laugh a little when I walked over, put my right ear on my right shoulder and thought "He told me so".   I thought someone somewhere said they flipped them but they obviously had a different intake. 

 

The question if you can't see if the pic is that its not a big deal if the oil separator line on the drivers side is tapped at the front of it?  There is NO room in the back for one...

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pics working now and your fine with the valve cover bung and yes that is the vortech  valve

I think what threw me off was that I am use to seeing the bigger/flashier valves that most people have.  What would I gain with a different valve?  Adjustability or just more money and a cooler looking piece?  I have to admit it looks a bit cheap to me....

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i think it looks rather cheap too so i moved mine down in front so it's not sticking up and in your face.

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kinda hard to see, but i don't have any better pics at the moment.  i have the hose coming off the discharge pipe running under the blower in the frame rail area.

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i think it looks rather cheap too so i moved mine down in front so it's not sticking up and in your face.

320D8201-40E8-4823-9204-B31D00E66698_zps

kinda hard to see, but i don't have any better pics at the moment.  i have the hose coming off the discharge pipe running under the blower in the frame rail area.

hey did you bypass the metal hoses on top of the motor for the host that goes from the heater core/firewall to the front of the motor and come up under the motor to hit it?  I have been considering this myself but wasn't sure how well it would work out...  I too am considering moving it up.  I am really not happy with the cheap plastic look of the BPV so I am going to upgrade it to something, not sure what.  On that same note the textured plastic on the pipe between the throttle body and the supercharger bugs me.  Just doesn't seem to fit in so I am either going to make it smooth and paint it or I decided to try some techflex since it can still come off.  One side it just held on by tape now but if I keep it I would add a few dabs of CA glue in areas not visable to hold it in place.  The flat black on the rubber pieces bugs me too but I am hoping some dressing might fix that.

before

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after.

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What do you think?

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they should be they were on for 3 yrs prior to the wreck and didn't have any issues.

 

 

I would take a look at the install directions again.  It looks like yours are turned 90* inward towards the motor than what they should be.

 

 

14488962903_c10dafe439_b.jpg[

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hey did you bypass the metal hoses on top of the motor for the host that goes from the heater core/firewall to the front of the motor and come up under the motor to hit it?  I have been considering this myself but wasn't sure how well it would work out...  I too am considering moving it up.  I am really not happy with the cheap plastic look of the BPV so I am going to upgrade it to something, not sure what.  On that same note the textured plastic on the pipe between the throttle body and the supercharger bugs me.  Just doesn't seem to fit in so I am either going to make it smooth and paint it or I decided to try some techflex since it can still come off.  One side it just held on by tape now but if I keep it I would add a few dabs of CA glue in areas not visable to hold it in place.  The flat black on the rubber pieces bugs me too but I am hoping some dressing might fix that.

before

7292221403202911-e88c801e10.jpg

after.

3588261403286942-dc86332ed1.jpg

What do you think?

 

for the heater hoses, i still have the hardline running along the motor.  i couldn't think of any other way that would be cleaner than that.  the other line that connects to the water pump runs along the blower bracket and then under the head and along the strut tower.  i just had to replace it because it fell onto the header and burned to the point of almost a hole.

 

i also hate that stupid little plastic discharge pipe.  i've tried painting it numerous times but the paint never holds.  no matter how much i prep it, the oil just seaps through eventually and the paint flakes off.  in the future i'm going to switch to a fox TB so i can get a metal piece instead.  techflex looks pretty good on there, but i would be careful with it because it's a very tight fit on the at piece and getting it on and off is a royal PITA.  not sure how well the ends will hold up to the on/off whoas.

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If you want to rid yourself of the coolant hard lines I have a solution somewhere in my build thread. Its pretty simple.

Sent from Space

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Im with ryan, infact id toss that pos plastic in the trash and fab your own from aluminum. The hardlines can also go in the trash replace with heater hose or the likes. Did it years ago on my old set up.

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for the heater hoses, i still have the hardline running along the motor.  i couldn't think of any other way that would be cleaner than that.  the other line that connects to the water pump runs along the blower bracket and then under the head and along the strut tower.  i just had to replace it because it fell onto the header and burned to the point of almost a hole.

 

i also hate that stupid little plastic discharge pipe.  i've tried painting it numerous times but the paint never holds.  no matter how much i prep it, the oil just seaps through eventually and the paint flakes off.  in the future i'm going to switch to a fox TB so i can get a metal piece instead.  techflex looks pretty good on there, but i would be careful with it because it's a very tight fit on the at piece and getting it on and off is a royal PITA.  not sure how well the ends will hold up to the on/off whoas.

 

What oil is seeping through?  Its a big piece of split tech flex that I just wrapped around it and then sewn up the bottom and just some electrical tape on the ends.  Your paint problem has me wondering if I would have the same problem with glue.  Its currently sewn up with cotton string because I was planning on gluing but I might just swap the cotton out for some monofilament line or something.

Im with ryan, infact id toss that pos plastic in the trash and fab your own from aluminum. The hardlines can also go in the trash replace with heater hose or the likes. Did it years ago on my old set up.

with the larger alt its even a little more crowded around the valve cover/heater hose/gas line area which is why I am considering rerouting it.  Still not sure what would be the easiest/best looking

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The vortech will always seep a little bit of oil. Maybe not if it's brand new but it will happen. I'm not talking a lot but when you take off the discharge tube it will have residue on it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Where is the oil coming from?  I was hoping the forge piece was a direct replacement thanks for that info.

 

Electronics is something that always seemed to come easy for me.  Certainly easier then for example the English language, spelling, ect.... But today as I looked over to see the ford electronics manual, the balmar voltage regulator manual and the phoenix gold alternator manual I realized why a lot of people get overloaded by it as I could not help but think the shtuff was getting real.

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got everything wired up.  You can see the voltage regulator on top of the abs module.

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the ars-5 is a pretty sweet regulator.  It has a 14 step charging cycle to maximize the agm batteries and even has a temp sensor for the alt to monitor temps.  It will also light up the charging light and reduce output if there is a problem.  I didn't paint the bracket as I am about to do a big paint spray and will throw it in with that.

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got the BPV installed.  Looks much better.

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also got the hood installed.  I needed to do a little modification to get it to fit but I am not sure if that was because of the wreck or the mix/matched parts now.  But it fits and love how it goes with the bumper.

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Oh yea I almost forgot that I did do this this morning.

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I had to laugh a little when it came time for the clutch wire and found this.  I thought they didn't exist?

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This was my first time pulling a motor but I had heard that those clutch covers were rarely ever there and when my buddy gave me the instructions to go down there he was assuming it was gone.  He knew almost perfectly exactly what size bolt that each bolt was on the car to remove the motor, didn't know that one though.  Gonna clean that sucker up, maybe put a coat of paint on it just fer giggles.

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The way I see it, keeping more dust/debris out of the bell housing and keeping exhaust heat off the clutch cable right there can only be a good thing. Hence why I made one that would fit with my LT's lol

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Yes I have been busy working on it and made some cool progress.  The aerocatch flush hood latches came out absolutely awesome and I am going to start getting the dust out of the garage to start priming and painting and I am hoping the supercharger will come back from polishing any day now.  But in general I just have not felt like repeating myself here and figured that if anyone wanted to see it that they knew where to look.  Didn't think anyone would mind me saving the bandwidth.

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I used my carpentry exp and used a router to make the holes.  I did take pics if anyone was interested but again just saving time.  If anyone else wants to do it I can mail the pattern/jig I used to trade with the router to make a perfect hole or I can post the pics showing how to make one.

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Yea I don't think anyone has ever requested for anyone to post less on here, post away Scott!

I was afraid I was posting a little too much detail and not enough progress and boring people.  I guess as long as I don't post about my health it doesn't bug anyone but f'em.  I (knock on wood) have been almost 3 months since my last hospital stay and been almost feeling normal.  That combined with some amazing weather here I have been thrashing on all the little details to try and get my motor off of my buddies lift.  I was just taking a break and posted the pics on my drive timeline with the descriptions if you click on the pics.  I will try to transfer them here later but I need to get back masking.

 

https://driiive.com/ttocs/1994FordMustangGT/#!/timeline

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its begun...

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so. they went inside the hood and then you fiberglassed the hole shut again? am I missing something?

they just barely fit inside the void in the middle of the two layers which is why I had to bend the metal cages in tighter.  After the latch was epoxied in place, I epoxied the same piece I cut out of the back and then with a little filler and primer its like it never happened.  I was concerned about the epoxy but I emailed the manf and they said it was actually better due to vibrations.

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Very nice work closing off the bottom of the hood, that was always one aspect that worried me about the install. I wasn't too excited about a gaping hole under the hood lol.

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I hoped that I would be able to finish the bottom off somehow but was willing to take the bottom looking bad for the top to be nice.  In just worked out that there was enough space in that void.  The back piece actually rests on the back of the part you first push down on to open the latch so its a little more support as well.  Really just could not have worked out better.  Its all about the little details right? 

 

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Did I mention that I have been doing some body work and a lot of sanding for the last year?  I am now cleaning the garage to get ready for paint.  I had one of the back wheels under the back of the car that had apparently collected a lot of dust under it and when I lifted it up that was where the majority of it came from.  About to go out and do round 2 now....

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