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Operation Cheap Bitch

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I got the motor and trans pulled out of the Mark VIII today. It went pretty easy after I dropped the K-member. The motor is pretty dirty. i am not going to worry about messing with it though until i have the mark VIII dismantled.

After I do get it cleaned up I will run a compression check and put a bore scope through the plug holes, then I will decide which direction I will go with this motor

Here is a couple of pics from the end of the day

IMG_0169_zps27402808.jpg

IMG_0168_zps9bdb768e.jpg

IMG_0167_zps281f57eb.jpg

Matt

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No, But I did not feel like trying to fight with the K-member to put it back in so I put a chain going across the strut towers and used the engine hoist to lift up the front end so i could maneuver the car around. I did put the doors and trunk lid in the back of the truck to make a little more room in the garage. Tomorrow I am going to try to get all of the interior out of it.

Matt

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Pretty much, cutting it up is kind of like staring down a 24 oz Porterhouse Steak, it looks intimidating, but I will just cut it down one part at a time. I figure if I take about 18" off the front and a good chunk of the trunk off, it should open up a good bit more room in the garage

matt

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I got the drivers side cut back to the firewall, and i got the dash board out of it. Tomorrow will start with the headliner, and what few trim pieces are left then I will take the roof off, a-pillars, b-pillars, and c- pillars. See how long that tales me, then decide if I want to take any more of it apart

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1237766_10201170117712795_591266572_n.jpg

Matt

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The diff is the same. I know the axles are longer and the mounting points for everything are supposed to be different. I know the rotors also have a larger diameter bolt pattern for the wheels. Also the diff is a one wheel wonder, no limited slip to it

Matt

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I got all of the steel loaded up in the truck, well truck and trailer. I had to borrow a buddies small utility trailer. This way I only have to make one trip to the recyclers for the steel. So next weekend I will run a compression check and scope the bores to see how they are looking. If compression looks good and the bores are clean I will run the engine as it is, If the compression does not check out or if the bores look bad then I will decide which way to go with the engine later

Matt

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I got all of the steel over to the scrap yard, it would up only being 1500#. I thought it would be more. I still have the cats and the aluminum wheels to recycle plus I need to strip all of the copper.

Matt

I'm very curious how much you get for stripping the copper and if it's worth the work. Why not I guess, right? If that diff housing is exactly the same as the Cobra, I'd be trying to sell that.

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I'm very curious how much you get for stripping the copper and if it's worth the work. Why not I guess, right? If that diff housing is exactly the same as the Cobra, I'd be trying to sell that.

He's trading the IRS diff for a 96/98 cobra intake.

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I'm very curious how much you get for stripping the copper and if it's worth the work.

We buy wire for $1.xx per pound, and copper for $3.xx per pound. Think it's worth a little time to strip it now?!

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He's trading the IRS diff for a 96/98 cobra intake.

Wow, ballin deal! I might start snatching those diffs lol. I honestly thought everything was different about the Mark 8 IRS's.

We buy wire for $1.xx per pound, and copper for $3.xx per pound. Think it's worth a little time to strip it now?!

Yup, lol. I know [MENTION=172]Sleeperstang1994[/MENTION] is saving all his wire.

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Yesterday when I was at the yard I asked about the copper prices. Their price was $2.95 for bright clean wire(stripped) or $1.10 for insulated wire. A good buddy of mine let me borrow his wire stripper that looks like a flaring block that is split in the middle with different size holes. You put a razor blade in it and pull the wire through cutting the insulation making it easier o get the insulation off

I will have a go at it and see how long it takes, then decide if it is worth it

Matt

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Wow, ballin deal! I might start snatching those diffs lol. I honestly thought everything was different about the Mark 8 IRS's.

Yup, lol. I know @Sleeperstang1994 is saving all his wire.

HA i just stripped a security system out of a 2000 V6 today. saved all the wires and relays too!

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So I went over to load up the rest of the Mark VIII stuff to take to the transfer station to throw away tomorrow. So then I decided to tinker with the Teksid engine for a little bit.

First thing I learned is that the head on the Harbor Freight bore scope camera is just a hair too large to fit into a 5/8" spark plug hole.

Second the way the spark plug holes are cut into the 4V heads on a 93 Mark VIII you can get get a compression tester to screw directly into the head, the threads are not cut all of the way to the top of the spark plug hole. So I thought maybe I could use a spark plug non -fouler to adapt it in. I ran into the same problem with the non fouler, I had to grind about 1/2"off the top of the non fouler to get the compression tester to be able to screw in to it.

So now that I have all of that worked out tomorrow after I go to the transfer station I can take a battery and remote starter over and do a compression check on the Teksid

Matt

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Well the compression check did not go very well. All cylinders on the passenger side were between 115 and 120 psi. The drivers side had 2 cylinders at 125 psi, 1 and 110 psi and the 4th at 75 psi. So it looks like some sort of rebuild is on order. Right now I am hoping I can get away with honing the cylinders and installing new rings, bearings and gaskets. I will not really know until I get the heads off and check the bores closely.

Time to start looking at different rebuild options

matt

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