Project 96 Rio GT 5.0 Stroker

[woody]

Since this car is currently my daily driver, the throw out bearing is going out. So I ordered some new parts to upgrade the transmission.

This is what I've got coming:

- Spec Aluminum Flywheel

- ARP Flywheel Bolts

- Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit

- Pilot Bearing

- FRPP Throwout Bearing

- ARP Pressure Plate Bolts

- FRPP Pivot Stud

- Flywheel Dowels

- FRPP Clutch Fork

- Steeda Clutch Cable Kit

- Royal Purple Grease

[Det_Riot]

Looks good man! You should feel much better about driving it after you fix that!

[woody]

The UPS man dropped off Box #1

[fiveohwblow]

Maybe I missed it woody, but why are you ditching the cobra in favor of the GT?

[copmagnet]

Since this car is currently my daily driver, the throw out bearing is going out. So I ordered some new parts to upgrade the transmission.

This is what I've got coming:

- Spec Aluminum Flywheel

- ARP Flywheel Bolts

- Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit

- Pilot Bearing

- FRPP Throwout Bearing

- ARP Pressure Plate Bolts

- FRPP Pivot Stud

- Flywheel Dowels

- FRPP Clutch Fork

- Steeda Clutch Cable Kit

- Royal Purple Grease

 

 

 

 

Might be a little late, but ditch the FRPP throw out and get an OEM ford one...

[woody]

Maybe I missed it woody, but why are you ditching the cobra in favor of the GT?

The Cobra 4v is to pricey. I've decide to build this one into a Stroker 5.0

Since this car is currently my daily driver, the throw out bearing is going out. So I ordered some new parts to upgrade the transmission.

This is what I've got coming:

- Spec Aluminum Flywheel

- ARP Flywheel Bolts

- Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit

- Pilot Bearing

- FRPP Throwout Bearing

- ARP Pressure Plate Bolts

- FRPP Pivot Stud

- Flywheel Dowels

- FRPP Clutch Fork

- Steeda Clutch Cable Kit

- Royal Purple Grease

Might be a little late, but ditch the FRPP throw out and get an OEM ford one...

Not to late. I went with the OEM Bearing.

[fiveohwblow]

The Cobra 4v is to pricey. I've decide to build this one into a Stroker 5.0

Not to late. I went with the OEM Bearing.

Yeah tell me about it! Just had the Mach returned to stock but of course bored .030 and bad the heads rebuilt and I'm into it 3600

[woody]

Yeah tell me about it! Just had the Mach returned to stock but of course bored .030 and bad the heads rebuilt and I'm into it 3600

I sold the block and used that to buy some parts for my clutch upgrade. Once the transmission is done, time for suspension mods, by then I will be ready to build the motor.

[fiveohwblow]

I sold the block and used that to buy some parts for my clutch upgrade. Once the transmission is done, time for suspension mods, by then I will be ready to build the motor.

Makes sense. I have somewhat of a limbo plan just like that to get my sn done eventually.

[woody]

UPS man dropped off package #2...

Still waiting on Flywheel, ARP Pressure plate bolts, Clutch Fork, pivot stud, grease, and New starter (since it's coming out anyways)

[woody]

The last 2 parts came today. Now to install them.

[woody]

Developed a Coolant leak somewhere. Replaced the Water Pump as it was starting to make a noise. Also replaced the Serpentine Belt and Thermostat. Afterwards, the leak made itself apparent. Leak is coming from where the metal meets the plastic on the thermostat housing on the intake manifold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[woody]

Replaced the leaking intake over the past few days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the intake replacement, I ran into some hesitation issues under load. I ordered MSD Wires and MSD Coil Packs. I'm hoping that this solves my misfire issue. The #4 & 5 spark plugs were soaked in coolant. As well as the spark plug boots. I went over everything else in detail and looks good. #5 cylinder had coolant in it. I was able to wick it out with a nylon rope, several pieces later, I can insert nylon rope in the cylinder and it comes back dry. I checked all the other cylinders and they are dry as well.

 Decided to replace the spark plugs while in hopes that was the issue. Still had the hesitation issue. I inspected the plug gaps, all @ 1.3 per the ford service book.

 

 

 

I checked everything real closely and noticed that the fuel injectors #1 & #2 didn't look like the rest. checked the book and guess what - they where rotated 45 degrees. Fixed that and now everything is okay.

Well Guess what - No more hesitation...

Today I installed MSD Coil packs and Street Wires by MSD.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last Sunday was a long 12 hour day of upgrading my clutch. Replaced OEM parts with FRPP Roller Pilot Bearing, FRPP Nodular Flywheel, ARP Flywheel Bolts, Spec Stage 2 Clutch with Pressure Plate, ARP Pressure Plate Bolts, OEM Throw-out Bearing, New Pivot Stud, FRPP Clutch Fork, PA Performance Starter, Steeda Quadrant, Steeda Adjustable Clutch Cable.

 

 

Started by putting the rears on ramps, and lifting the front up on jack stands.

 

 

Then disconnected the rear exhaust, removed the cat's. After that the Driveshaft came out.

 

 

 

While getting ready to remove the Bell Housing bolts, noticed that someone in the past used the transmission as a lift point.

 

 

 

Had my youngest daughter remove the shifter boot, shifter dust cover, and pull the Steeda Tri-Ax out.

 

 

8 Bell housing bolts, 2 easy bolts and 1 pain in the rear bolt on the starter and the transmission came out fairly easy.

 

Time to remove the flywheel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was still plenty of material left on the clutch, but that wasn't why I was upgrading. The Throw Out bearing was toast.

 

 

 

 

 

The new Spec Pressure plate had a manufacturing defect in it. My friend Neil was able to carefully grind it down.

 

 

The old Pivot stud was worn out.

 

 

 

 

 

Installed the new Pilot Bearing, Flywheel, Clutch disk, Pressure Plate with ARP Bolts. Afterwards we repaired the bell housing. Then installed the new Clutch fork, Pivot Stud, and Throw Out Bearing. The transmission went back into place fairly easy with the help of this homemade transmission adapter plate for my 2.5 ton floor jack.

 

 

 

 

 

Now that the transmission was back in, time for the starter re-install. 2 easy bolts done, and then a friend painstakingly put the pain in the rear bolt back in. Note his hand in the picture below. The bolt is on top behind the starter with tight access.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last thing to do was install the new Steeda Quadrant, Firewall Adjuster and Adjustable cable.

 

 

 

I want to thank Liz & Ernie for the use of their shop. I also want to thank James, Nelson, Neil, Liz, Ernie, Alex, and Chloe for helping out. Also want to thank my dad for making the transmission plate. I gave him the idea and numbers and he put it together. I made lifting the transmission in and out a breeze. Thank you Dad.

 

 

[Det_Riot]

Looking good man! Gotta love new parts! If you wanna save yourself a headache right now, order yourself a MM clutch cable. i know many peopple have awesome luck with the adjustble but nobody that I know has had any sort of luck lol

[woody]

Looking good man! Gotta love new parts! If you wanna save yourself a headache right now, order yourself a MM clutch cable. i know many peopple have awesome luck with the adjustble but nobody that I know has had any sort of luck lol

I've heard the same thing. Although the MM cable is only a modified Ford OEM cable from what I have seen.

[Musturd]

I just buy stock ones and use them with a fire wall adjuster

[95riosnake]

The reason MM uses the Ford cable is it's the best and most reliable cable you can get for these cars. I did a lot of research before deciding what one to go with and not many people recommend any of the aftermarket cables. The Ford cable is the way to go.

 

Bryan knows all about the woes of clutch cables, lol.

 

Great progress on the car, and I like the homemade transmission jack plate! That's my kind of creativity

[Blackmage]

nice work on the car man! I had 3 intake fail on me over the years lol i feel ya there.   

[woody]

The last month I have been having cooling issues with my 96 GT. Started with a cracked intake where the plastic meets the crossover tube at the thermostat. I have replaced all hoses, water pump, intake, and both sensors on the crossover tube over the past month. Drove it to Vegas and back and had no issues other than forgetting to tighten the radiator cap, causing it to overheat and force coolant out the cap. Replaced the degas tank when I got home as the low coolant sensor would not go off even though it was full of coolant and the temp was normal.

The car is quick to get real hot to the touch. The temp gauge moves up to the "O" in normal and stays there. The heater works, and there is no coolant under the carpet indicating a bad heater core. However I can smell coolant at times, especially after I stop and turn off the car.

The last week under hard acceleration from a stop the heater core inlet hose (the one that comes off the top rear of the intake) pops off leaking coolant everywhere. This has happened twice, and both under hard acceleration. Normal driving it's fine.

I'm thinking I may have a damaged a head gasket. :cry:

Any Ideas?

I will be compression testing the car this Thursday when I have more time.

Based on my Service Manual, I think I may have narrowed it down to a heater core issue.

Based on this cooling system diagnosis and testing flow. I need to do the Pinpoint Test B.

And based on Pinpoint Test B:

B1 - coolant level good

B2 - no signs of contaminants

B3 - no leaves or outside obstructions

B4 - the inlet and outlet hoses are different temps.

I narrowed it down to a no on B4

[woody]

Today I did the first test for a head gasket issue.

Started with the Coolant Tank Cap off and cold engine. No bubbles!!! and the car took almost 20 minutes to rise to normal temp.

 

This is where my gauge always sits at:



The lower hose (Heater Core Intake Hose) is the hose that pops off. Note the bulge.

[woody]

Took time today to get my Horn, Cruise Control, and Fog lights working. Replaced the Airbag Clock Spring because everything I read on the forums indicated that if your Horn and Cruise Control are not working then it has to be the clock spring. Well, that wasn't the case. The Horn and Fog lights work and will test Cruise Control when the rear end is rebuilt. It was a single missing fuse. Replaced and it works.

 

Disconnected the Battery and waited a few hours for the airbag to discharge its charge. Removed the 2 8mm bolts holding the airbag onto the steering wheel.

 

 

 

Then I removed the cruise control plug.

 

 

Then I used a T50 Torx bit to remove the steering wheel retaining bolt.

 

 

Then used a "OEM" Steering Wheel puller.

 

 

 

 

 

Then using a pick, I removed the tumbler.

 

 

 

 

Then I removed the plastic knee guard which is held on by 2 8mm bolts and 2 metal clips.

 

 

Then I removed the steel plate under that which is held on by 2 8mm bolts.

 

 

Then I removed the steering column plastic cover which is held on by 5 Phillips screws.

 

 

 

Then I disconnected the 2 connectors that are located on the steering column under the dash.

 

 

New Airbag Clock Spring in place. Now to reverse the process.

 

 

[Blackmage]

well that kinda blows, all that work for a fuse! 

[Tabres]

That transmission adapter for your floor jack is a great idea.  I wish I had thought of that last time I put mine in.

[woody]

well that kinda blows, all that work for a fuse!

Tell me about it. The fuse was missing and I should have checked that first.

That transmission adapter for your floor jack is a great idea. I wish I had thought of that last time I put mine in.

Thanks. It was a back saver and made handling the transmission real easy.

[woody]

Good News

Today I discovered my Cruise Control now works, so the replacing of the Airbag Clock Spring was not a waste of time.

Compression Test Completed.

Cylinder #1 180
Cylinder #2 180
Cylinder #3 180
Cylinder #4 185
Cylinder #5 180
Cylinder #6 180
Cylinder #7 180
Cylinder #8 185

Per the Ford book they are all within spec and within 75%

Cooling system flush completed and now crap in the system and pressure tested. I have noticed that the hose that keeps popping off is not like the OEM hose. It was too easy to slide off and the pressure meant the clamp couldn't hold it. Put a screw clamp on it and now the hose stays put under hard acceleration.

Like my dad said, the coolant smell is residual coolant that hasn't burned off from the time it showered the engine in coolant. The under side of the hood and top of the engine is sticky and smells like coolant. It will go away with time and a good cleaning.

Bad News

A week ago I started hearing a faint grinding or metal rubbing noise coming from under the car when I was slowing to a stop. The noise was occurring with the car out of gear and rolling to a stop. I then noticed it was also occurring in gear but was not as loud. Shortly after this I noticed a hum above 65 on the freeway.

Took it to my dads today to work on it. It did fine on the freeway to my dads from Mukilteo to Covington.

Jacked it up and took off the rear wheels. Placed the rear axle on jack stands and chocked the front tires. Had my dad start the car and put it into gear to listen for the noise. In the video you car hear it, and it's not coming from the rear end. It get more noticeable towards the transmission. So we thought it was a drive shaft or a transmission issue.

Since I didn't have a good jack to lift it high enough to look at better. We took it for a road test and the car started shaking and we could feel it in our seats and got worse the faster we went. It also got worse the further we drove the car and made it back to the house.

I parked it and ordered a new drive shaft.

[Det_Riot]

I was gonna say before you ordered a new driveshaft did you look at the obvious things like u joints or driveshaft bolts coming lose?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[woody]

I was gonna say before you ordered a new driveshaft did you look at the obvious things like u joints or driveshaft bolts coming lose?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I didn't order a drive shaft. My dad bought it for me. I ordered new bolts. I couldn't get the car high enough to inspect the U joint's or bolts as my had a old jack.

[Det_Riot]

Ahha okay fair enough

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[woody]

Well guess what. It was the driveshaft bolts that backed out 1/4-1/3".

Locktite - torqued to 85 ft/lbs. No more noise and road tested on the freeway with no vibration.

[Det_Riot]

Well guess what. It was the driveshaft bolts that backed out 1/4-1/3".

Locktite - torqued to 85 ft/lbs. No more noise and road tested on the freeway with no vibration.

;-) I spoke from experience Hahah glad it was simple!

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Blackmage]

what did you end up doing with your extra d/s now lol

[woody]

what did you end up doing with your extra d/s now lol

I returned it