Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Ok, so I talked myself into it.Rundown:We all know I have a V6 turd, so it has the 7.5Buying an 8.8 from my coworker that has bent axle tubes (I believe) Shops around here can straighten the tubes out and weld onto them to beef them up. I'll be building the rear end a little, 4.10's, fresh seals/bearings and a t-lok rebuild. the usual.Have tossed around the idea of a new cover, what cover would you reccomend for added durability.And finally, if I have the 8.8 do I get the v8 driveshaft? Or do I still get the V6. If it is the V6 can someone find one, AM used to have them, but now it's like they're hidden.I just need to get the right schtuff.This ought to wake her up quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I would recommend running the FRPP Diff Cover. I picked one up and it's going in Tuesday. It's a solid piece and a lot ticker than the OEM cover. FRPP sells an aluminum driveshaft as well for the 8.8 so I would assume that is what you would have to get. Links:FRPP Diff CoverFord Racing Aluminum Driveshaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Probably going to be the two most expensive componets of this little project ;pThanks, any more info from anyone is still appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venom351R Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 There is another place that sells the D.S cheaper then summit, I think its late model resto. That diff cover is a nice one, anything like that or a trick flow or Moser one is all excellent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I just like to overbuild stuff, I don't want it to break. My buddy runs a 9 second car on stock axles, so I'll probably just get stock axles haha.I just want it to be nice. I know those 4.10's are going to wake up my 2nd and 3rd sooo much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revhead347 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 There is always a Diff Girdle for $149 on Summit. I think it's the Moser one right now. If you're going to spend the money, you might as well get a girdle. The TA Performance Girdle is a little more money, but it gives you a little more clearance if you have an aftermarket sway bar.Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Is a girdle essentially what I'm calling the cover? Or is that a cover with the studs in it? Sorry to seem naiive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revhead347 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Cover with the studs in it that press down on the bearing caps.Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Yeah get the cover with the girdle supports , I love the SVO one, but find one lol.. Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Awesome, that's what I was wanting. I love strength haha! I know I've heard great reviews on the TA one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Is a girdle essentially what I'm calling the cover? Or is that a cover with the studs in it? Sorry to seem naiive.This, I've always heard them called different things but assumed it was just different terms for the same part. My reasoning is if you click on the FRPP Diff Cover link I posted it is listed as "Product Line - Ford Racing Axle Girdles" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I see what you're saying, I was just making sure it wasn't something internal I needed to get. Like I said, I'm going for reliability, able to withstand mild launches on occasion. I know stock could handle it, but I'd prefer beefed up a bit.I really appreciate the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Thanks for the clarification & glad I could help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Yeah!Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Can someone explain the difference in the v6 and v8 driveshafts? The main thing is, I'm building this rear in full, when I change it out, my goal is to drop the old one, and buckle the new one in. Maybe change the LCA's while i'm in there as well.I want it to be a one day job, so I just don't want any major snags day of haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I wouldn't think there would be a difference, especially in an automatic car since most have aode's/4r70w.. The 5 speeds could vary though I suppose lolSent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I have a 5 speed turd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 There isn't a difference in the driveshafts except you can upgrade to the FRPP one. If you go to the link I posted you can click on the applications tab and see it will work with the 7.5 and 8.8 so unless they have it wrong then it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Good eye Brian!!Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I just know AM used to offer two completely different part numbers for the v6 d/s and the v8 d/s That's why I was nervous =/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I just know AM used to offer two completely different part numbers for the v6 d/s and the v8 d/s That's why I was nervous =/Hmm... good point. I'm not sure if anyone at AM would ACTUALLY know if they were different in any way. For example on Summit I ordered a clutch for my car but it says it'll work on 93 and below cars but there isn't anything different between those and mine (IIRC). Then I found a clutch that is listed for my '95 and all the specs are identical expect for the price & part number..... So I'm hoping the DS will work for either car.... I can't honestly say yes or no though..... Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Odd..Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Gotta love frankensteining shit together ;p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 That's how I roll, weld it all one piece lol..Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Weld the entire drivetrain together ;p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Yes!!.. DOIT!!Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venom351R Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I just like to overbuild stuff, I don't want it to break. My buddy runs a 9 second car on stock axles, so I'll probably just get stock axles haha.I just want it to be nice. I know those 4.10's are going to wake up my 2nd and 3rd sooo muchall depends on what your doing with it and what you use with it. Example.... Drag radials are harder on axles and the rear end more so then slicks. DR's have a stiff side wall and that sudden "Shock" on the drive line at launch is more likely to break an axle then launching off a slick. A lot of people think its the other way around b/c slicks bite harder but they have a soft side wall and they wrinkle, all that power is transferred through the slick and to the ground which equals more traction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revhead347 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I totally agree with Venom on this one. Spend the money on forged axles. If nothing else, it will make the axle more valuable if you ever want to sell it. There is no point in taking it apart for a gear change, spending all that money, and then throwing the stock axles back in there. I would also put the long Moroso studs if you can get them to work with your wheels. 28 spline Mosers and Reliables are only like $230. There is also a provision for the ABS Reluctor you need to check on.Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I just know AM used to offer two completely different part numbers for the v6 d/s and the v8 d/s That's why I was nervous =/for the v6 I ran the 79-95 5.0 driveshaft. it's meant for the t5 and went right in without changing anything. you'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revhead347 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I honestly don't think there is any difference in the driveshafts, but I'm not positive. If you have a finite budget and need to choose, I would spend the money on the axles instead of the driveshaft. If you pick up the car from the rear, and leave the front wheels on the ground, you can get the driveshaft out without leaking transmission fluid.Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinschmidt1 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Can someone explain the difference in the v6 and v8 driveshafts? The main thing is, I'm building this rear in full, when I change it out, my goal is to drop the old one, and buckle the new one in. Maybe change the LCA's while i'm in there as well.I want it to be a one day job, so I just don't want any major snags day of haha!Im pretty sure they are the same but the autos have a diff. yoke than the manuals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venom351R Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I totally agree with Venom on this one. Spend the money on forged axles. If nothing else, it will make the axle more valuable if you ever want to sell it. There is no point in taking it apart for a gear change, spending all that money, and then throwing the stock axles back in there. I would also put the long Moroso studs if you can get them to work with your wheels. 28 spline Mosers and Reliables are only like $230. There is also a provision for the ABS Reluctor you need to check on.Kurta lot of people put in the hardened 28 spline axles which I guess is fine if you dont want to spend the money to upgrade your differential but the ford racing limited slip 31 spline unit is $250 and Ive beaten the hell out of mine since I have owned it. And you can always replace the clutch packs in it if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinschmidt1 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 If your gonna spend the money why not buy a detroit true trac and never worry about changing clutch packs? Its 100% mechanical and its the shit...you could probably pick one up used for 300-350 used, I think they are a bit over 400 new but at least you will never have 1 tire fire, ever, ever.Might as well do it right, detroit true trac and 31 splines man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revhead347 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 All those recommendations aren't unwarranted, but you can spend money into oblivion. I'm trying to be consistent with the fact that this is a V6 car. For reference, the only thing I ever did to my rear end is change the gear ratio, and put the hardened 28 spline Moser axles in it. I'm guessing that I have probably launched the car on slicks hard enough to get the front wheels off the ground about 50 times. My original traction lock is finally starting to slip a little, but given the amount of abuse the original one took, I see no reason not to just repack it and go another 17 years. The last time I had slicks on the car I was launching it hard on the street on the bottle, and it was hooking dead with 631ftlbs of torque at the wheels.The reason I recommend going ahead and spending the money on axles and studs is because those have to come out to pull the differential anyway. I know there are plenty of people using stock axles, but they are hit or miss. I've seen guys do 200 passes on slicks with stock axles, and I've seen cars break the axles the first time at the track on drag radials. The manufacturing precision on them just doesn't give you a level of dependability to make that decision.A Detroit truetrac is nice, but it comes with some undesirable driving characteristics. The stock locker is going to hook just fine on your car.Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Alright, from what I've gathered then.I can use a 5.0 aluminum d/s if there's a difference between it and the 4.6 at all.I may or may not upgrade to the 31 spline axles, the most this car will ever see is 400 or so, and that's if I decide to boost it, for now, I'm having fun n/a.I'll take the advice and go ahead and upgrade the axles regardless, and explain more on the long studs please. What's the benefit exactly? I do have hubcentric spacers, is that an issue?I was planning on getting a Ford T-Lok rebuild kit, unless I upgrade to the 31, either way, I don't need a Detroit locker, it's a daily driven car, I don't wanna be hopping around turns haha The feedback is great guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinschmidt1 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I mean truthfully you would be fine with a stock 8.8 rear and axles.....but if your gonna build it, you might as well do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Tew Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Like I said, I don't wanna worry about it breaking.Will 275 slicks fit on an 8" wheel, I know the side wall will be bubbling a lot but from what I've been told that's good for slicks?It's not a drag car, but I will fun it a few times. It's more being built for road courses, and spirited driving through turns ;p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Like I said, I don't wanna worry about it breaking.Will 275 slicks fit on an 8" wheel, I know the side wall will be bubbling a lot but from what I've been told that's good for slicks?It's not a drag car, but I will fun it a few times. It's more being built for road courses, and spirited driving through turns ;pthe yokes are different on 5.0/4.6 driveshafts. it's due to the use of t45 instead of t5. Different yoke lengths iirc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinschmidt1 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Like I said, I don't wanna worry about it breaking.Will 275 slicks fit on an 8" wheel, I know the side wall will be bubbling a lot but from what I've been told that's good for slicks?It's not a drag car, but I will fun it a few times. It's more being built for road courses, and spirited driving through turns ;pGotcha....depends on the sidewall size, I had a 10.5 inch slick on a 7 inch wheel for example, 15 inch. A 275 should be no problem on a 8 inch wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SniveTroll Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Billetdepot.com for the upr/granatelli cover. Last seen for 119$. Sent by smoke signals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
