How To: Wheel Hub Replacement.

[Venom351R]

lets face it, these cars are getting up in age and things are going to need to be replaced even if not actually broken. Good way to know if your wheel hub needs to be replaced is that it will start to "wobble" Watch the video to see what I mean, you can see it is not turning true. Listen carefully you can hear it scraping b/c it is not turning as it should.

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c273/TravisMcEwen05/?action=view&current=41a82ed8.mp4

Ok so now that you have this problem how do you fix it? Well follow along and I'll show you how.

Tools Needed:

- Ratchet and sockets ( or air tools )

- Torque wrench with 220+ LB rating

- 36MM Socket

1. Remove the rotors and the caliper. Unbolt the calipers from their mounting points and hang the caliper with a coat hanger off from your springs or anywhere you can hook it to. Do not allow the caliper to hang freely.

2. After removing the braking components you will be down to the hub.

3. Remove the dust cap to expose the nut that is holding on the hub.

4. This is where you are going to want to use air tools. This nut is held on with 220 ft LBS and even with an air gun it does not like to come off. You will need a 36MM socket to get it off.

5. Once it is off you will be down to the spindle

6. Now it is just reverse order of everything. When you reapply the hub and nut you will need a torque wrench that is 220FTLBS or higher. 220 is the required amount for the nut that goes over the hub.

7. You will need to bang out your old wheel studs if you are going to reuse them. To reinstall them use the air gun and a stud installer and lots of anti seize.

8. Now fully reassemble the braking assembly in reverse order of how you took it all off, and then your done.

Edited July 16, 2012 by Venom351R

[Slykin]

Another way to put the studs back in is to stick the rotor back on and pull the studs through with your lug nuts. Not sure if this is the "proper" way or not, but it works without a stud installer.

[Venom351R]

I found a cheap one on Amazon for around $20 and it worked through both front hubs w/ out any issues. Destroyed few lug nuts but that's fine.

That hub can be bought right at NAPA for around $45 plus its made in America.

Edited July 16, 2012 by Venom351R

[Craig]

I have always used a c-clamp with a length of pipe that fits over the threads, or a stack of washers and a grade 8 nut. I dont like to use an impact on them because if you strip on of em you lose all the time u saved using an impact by going to buy a new stud haha. But if you got a stud installer for 20$ thats def the way to do it. Just adding a few ways to do it from folks without the tools.

[SniveTroll]

almost any timken and federal mogul bearings are highly reliable. when i did mine i glazed the spindle like a donut in bearing grease. it had to be baby tapped on then torqued.