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copmagnet

Turbo mach 1 build

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I had been so back and fourth with with it, since power isnt what kills them, its more RPM (and i'm staying below stock rev limiter) and I don't have a blower pulling on the crank..but at the same time I had that shadow of a doubt there.. I'll just be happy when it's done and I forget how mkuch I spent on this damn car.. but I'll have a pretty solid ass motor for sure.. I forgot to post it, but I had to cut the old water pump nipple because i bent it to much hammering it out so once it broke loose it wouldnt fit through the hole.. but new nipple is in. 

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I would not benefit from gt supercar followers or lifters. I won't be spinning this high enough to see any real gains. and for the price they run? pass.. 

 

I told the shop to replace any guides that did not look good.. apparently they were all good because they didn't replace any. 

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Looking good! now you just need to get some nice install pics! Any idea who On3 sources their turbos from? turbonetics? or possibly just a rebranded Chinese?

I honestly have no idea, I have heard shit completely across the board about where they come from. 

Running studs on the heads or bolts?

Sent from my iPhablet

Studs. 

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So I got the TSS gears installed and pump in. 

 

Got my heads from shop, got the arp studs in. Me and my 17 yr old sister carried the shortblock through my house into my garage to my 1000lb stand.. 

 

got the heads on. then i found out i was missing an arp nut.. I went and got a grade 8 nut to use instead. I found the nut as i was screwing on the grade 8 nut lol..

 

I got the motor timed. (side note, I found out fords instructions on how to time these motors are WRONG so DO NOT try to follow them. well...unless you want your drivers side cams 180 degrees off.) 

 

THEN, I hit my first snag with my on3 kit.....the drivers side header bolt holes are drilled 1/8 short. so I cannot get it on because the furthest right and furthest left stud threads are contacting the side of the hole. luckily i have a drill press and can just bore it a little.  

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The ford instructions tell you to put the drivers side cams 180 degrees out. it only says this on the page were it shows you to time the primary chains. the page prior and page after show something else.

timing upside down will work, and will not cause PTV, but it will not ever crank.. we figured out why the machine shop near me installed my buddies driver side cobra cams upside down....

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The ford instructions tell you to put the drivers side cams 180 degrees out. it only says this on the page were it shows you to time the primary chains. the page prior and page after show something else.

timing upside down will work, and will not cause PTV, but it will not ever crank.. we figured out why the machine shop near me installed my buddies driver side cobra cams upside down....

Are you using the cam holding tool? It sets it in the right orientation, and I'm fairly certain it only goes in one way.

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Sent from my iPhablet

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No, I have never uses them. I time it before I tighten the cams down so I don't worry about any PTV. Takes me 20 minutes to time it. I don't want to rent that tool from Autozone, its like $170.

My valve covers and timing cover should be here next weekend, I have to cut some baffles out of my oil pan, get it drilled and tapped for my return line, then get it in the car..

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No, I have never uses them. I time it before I tighten the cams down so I don't worry about any PTV. Takes me 20 minutes to time it. I don't want to rent that tool from Autozone, its like $170.

My valve covers and timing cover should be here next weekend, I have to cut some baffles out of my oil pan, get it drilled and tapped for my return line, then get it in the car..

might be worth your time to invest in one if you plan on doing it again. that way you dont have to worry about your cams being 180 off.   $100 shipped

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4-Valve-Cam-Timing-Ford/dp/B000O16LJY

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I'm not worried about it. I have timed enough of these to know how to do it, I was just rather drunk and decided to follow instructions. Once I noticed it was wrong I timed it my way.

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the way will has his set up is the correct way to do it. Im not saying you cant do it with out them because I do it all the time :) also don't take the pictures to seriously. a lot of times for will use 3.0 DOHC Taurus pictures when it come to timing components for the early 4.6 stuff. Interesting things I found out the hard way...

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I spent some hard time thinking about it.. But I finally said fuck it. 

 

The factory on3 drain line didn't really meet my standards, two ruber lines, a bent metal tube, 2 barb fittings and 4 pipe clamps..alot of people say it's ok but this is a accident waiting to happen.. so I got some stuff today to make my own kit. I ordered from three different places so maybe it will all be in before friday.. 

 

For the turbo side 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-DRAIN-OUTLET-Flange-Gasket-Adapter-Kit-10AN-MALE-10-AN-Fitting-T3-T4-/281540591705?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item418d208059&vxp=mtr

 

 

For the line

 

Wasn't sure if a straight would work or it would be slightly off so I got two fittings for this part. 

 

https://www.anfittingsdirect.com/an-fittings/aluminum--10an-fittings-p-1255.html?osCsid=f8174edab29220f5b48e7d5141791172

https://www.anfittingsdirect.com/an-fittings/10an-adaptor-for-stainless-steel-lines-p-1258.html?osCsid=f8174edab29220f5b48e7d5141791172

 

https://www.anfittingsdirect.com/stainless-steel-lines/an-braided-stainless-steel-lines-p-1242.html?osCsid=f8174edab29220f5b48e7d5141791172

 

 

For the pan

 

I got two 45 degree angles so, one will go on the pan side

 

and this fitting for the block so I do not have to weld..

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Oil-Pan-Return-Drain-Plug-Adapter-Fitting-10AN-No-Welding-Steel/381166793338?_trksid=p2045573.c100034.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28797%26meid%3Ddd28c717741f4d158e49d37478a24441%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D181306234686

 

 

and I got 2 ft of line. since it looks to be about 17", 24" gives me some leeway. 

 

 

 

 

I am hoping the lines are actually braided and do not have that rubber coating on them, but I will live with it if they do have the coating. I plan to do the same for the feed line dwn the road, but for now the line in the kit looks like it will be fine. 

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Ok So today I went pretty ballz to the wall. of course I know some of you could work faster but I'm not a super fast worker. 

 

I got the K member in and lined up as much as it will physically go. got the steering rack cleaned up since it was black and nasty with road grime. got the old bushings out and the new offset bushings greased and installed, finally figured out what size the UPR steering rack bolts are (5 1/2-1/2 but 6-1/2 gives you a little more thread space) spent 45 minutes torching and fighting the old tie rod ends to get them off and got the steeda bumpsteer kit on. made ANOTHER trip to tailors to get bolts to connect the A-arms to the K member since the ones I got with the kit were rusted and raster nasty looking. Those bolts are (15mm by 5.5 inches or 5/8x5.5") 45$ in bolts later... got the A-arms on and loosely bolted on. got the old Coilovers and tokico's off and played with the bilstiens I got from rolocut. I got the front braided brake lines installed (brakes are getting painted tomorrow along with spindles before install). so now all I am waiting for is the MM coilover kit, a new front swaybar mount (we fucked one up pulling the motor) and sway bar end link bushings. 

 

 

 

and lastly... I "mach,ed" up my turbo kit..lol

 

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